steviej

I am a supervisor of a Hematology Laboratroy in a major Boston , MA hosptial. My specialty is bleeding and blood clotting disorders as well as leukemias and lymphomas.

I also bartended in one of the top night clubs in Boston for 10 years.

I'm not on TV but my cousin played Julie on "Felicity"

steviej

was it this site.

http://shop.store.yahoo.com/lexusparts/lex...exesbacvis.html

I kinda like the chrome trunk bar.

hmmmmmm??

steviej

ok, that one I like.

Steve, try www.lexus-parts.com. It is Sewell Lexus in Dallas TX.

Go to "Shop by Category", then Alloy Wheels - Chrome and Silver Wheels.

steviej

In this order, mind you, only my opinion. I too am shopping for wheels.

No

Definately No

No Again

Still No

Better

Nope

Have you looked at RAYS Victirx Graicy's, or AT Italia Inox.

www.Lexus-parts.com has an awesome chrome wheel for $550.

Along the lines of what you are displaying.

IS300 wheels look very good, and I have seen a couple of SC430 wheels on the ES.

steviej

I have an 02 ES (virtually the same car) and wondered the same. I have not been able to find any, nor have I seen any 02-03 ES with them.

good luck and post if you find them.

steviej

most any sensor when not sending will trip a code. skp has a good suggestion in the crank position sensor. Again, the codes will tell you. As for where it is located, usually behind the crank shaft pulley and can be hard to do. For a horizontally opposed engine (most front wheel drive vehicles) you usually go through the wheel well (tire removed of course). Some engine bays have enough room that you can just do it from underneath. The hard part is the alignment of the new sensor. If it were me, I would say bite the bullet and pay them to do it.

I think I said it before, the codes will tell all: crank position sensor, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, EGR, O2, etc.

on GMs OBD port, you can jump position A to position B with a small wire and the check engine light will flash the numeric codes.

Dodge/Chrysler uses 5 repetative key turns from off to on (not start) and then rest at on. Then the check engine light flashes the numeric codes.

Why can't Toyota/Lexus do something like that?

keep us in the know.

steviej

1. your fuel pump may have died or has decreased output. Even though you smell gas, the injectors won't fire if they don't get enough fuel. The gas you smell may be residual in the fuel rail.

or

2. if you are smelling gas then there could be too much fuel. My guess would be that your fuel pressure regulator has crapped out.

or

3. it could be the cold start injector (if you got one) is clogged or not firing.

or

4. Toyota/Lexus has had problems with the tubing from the air box to the throttle body in the past, the tiniest hole will cause the engine to run rough or all out quit and not restart. It could be a crack in the hose or hole. Bottom line is the MAF sensor is getting a bad reading and not allowing the car to start.

or

5. Check all vacumm hoses to see if any has disconnected or cracked or dried up.

Did your wife say the check engine light came on before it died on her. If it did, then the code may be still in memory. Have any and all codes pulled from the ECU. This means the car has to be towed to your service guy. Autozone will read codes for free, but you still have a dead car on your hands. Go right to a service center to get codes read, then the work if needed can be done on one tow.

good luck and let us know what you got.

steviej

Toyota/Lexus had problems with AC expansion valves in the mid to late 90's.

Have them check those. This problem was seen in other models too.

The AC would be cold one day, hot/warm the next, then cold....not consistent.

I had a previous experience in my old car: when it started blowing warm and recharges didn't do the trick, turned out the condensor (looks like a radiator) needed replacement. That was costly.

good luck.

steviej

now that winter has past, people are getting out of the house more. I know I am getting more windshield time.

It was 45 °F the other day......I got the sunroof open and the windows down. Ok ok, the seat heaters were on but the coastal spring air smelled so good.

keep faith, it may just be steadying out for a while.

steviej

I agree, there are many questions that need be asked.

As john q. public, I am sure we may never know the entire answer(s).

I can only pray that all parties currently over there have a swift and safe return to their homes and loved ones.

sj

my first thougt when I heard this was this is terribly awful and something must have been/gone wrong.

what safeguards are in place so that this sort of thing doesn't happen?

What was the British fighter's transponder emitting?

If it was emitting, why was it not percieved as a "friendly" signal.

If it was transmitting, then there is no excuse for what happened.

I'm sure as with most of what we hear or see in the media about this war, it will only be about 25% of what happens or the way it completely happens.

steviej

I'm not big into bodykits but try this site.

http://shop.store.yahoo.com/lexusparts/lex...exesbacvis.html

I sure many other members will pipe up with some other ideas.

steviej

I have to agree with previous posts, the trunks are GS, they are not circles like the IS, they seem to be more oblong/rhomboid. However, the corner tails look very similar to IS rear lights.

oh well, it ain't mine.

steviej

do you relate the blown head gaskets and warped heads to a coolant leak or the use of nitrous?

Just curious, again, how did the top of your pistons look? From the pic, they look very clean.

steviej

I have searched that site, using their engine, and found nothing.

I did register a complaint with Lexus on www.Lexus.com. There reply was that the ECU learns the driver's style and blah blah blah.

I spoke with my dealer and they were ignorant to any problem in shift hesitation. I told him to get in my car and buckle up.

No recall, silent or announced, as of yet.

the service guy did conceed that with the new 5 speed auto, it may buck a little at 40 mph/2000 rpm when in D. It wants OD but other factors aren't allowing it. I found moving the shift to 4 clears it up.

This is stated in the manual too.

As for shifting hestiation when "stomping" it, I really haven't pressed the issue, cause I found it accelerates faster if you don't stomp it all the way. What's left of my ECU (gray matter between my ears can still learn too).

I guess not enough 2002 owners have pressed the issue. As long as it is under warranty, you could press the dealer to replace the ECU with that of a 2003 if possible.

steviej

what part of S..T..O..P didn't he understand.

I don't know, maybe its just the powder blue that's gettin me.

Hey, to each his own.

sj

Xenon, welcome!

Your experience and input will most definately be a plus to this site.

steviej

the 1mz-fe engine in all 94 and newer es 300's

all are a non interferance engine

meaning that if the belt breaks the valves cannot touch the pistons causing damage

This is not quite true.

When the 1MZ-FE became VVT-i the design of the engine went from non-interference and to interference. This can be verified on CL, with www.lexus.com, or I can furnish you with the actual threads and/or responce from the customer service rep from Lexus.com.

If the belt breaks under powertrain warranty, damages may be covered. If the car is working fine and well maintained, then 90k is acceptable. According to Lexus, the timing belt is of such high standards that rarely does it go before 90k and even a little higher.

However, some people will change it before 90k for piece of mind. In any case, if you do it, consider replacing the pulleys, water pump and serpentine belts at the same time.

Always shop around. Toyota may do it for less than Lexus. Independents may not do it right or may not use original Toyota/Lexus parts. Whichever way, you get what you pay for.

good luck.

steviej

My '02 calls for 29 psi all round (215/60-16s). It is probably the same.

I prefer the ride at 32 psi, personally.

steviej

try Pioneer directly, try Toyota/Lexus.

Lastly try www.crutchfield.com

contact salvage yards and re-cut the ends you need and slice back or get the entire harness if necessary.

sj

There is no aftermarket manual (Haynes, Chilton) for the 92-96 ES per say. However it has been said on CL that the Camry manual for the same years is sufficient for simple tasks.

There have been ebay sitings of CD ROM based repair manuals for the year in question. I cannot speak to the quality or reputability of these items since I never worked with them. I can say that I have not heard great reports on them, though.

The general Chilton books (Imports 88-92, 93-97, etc) will touch on Lexus and these books can usually be found at you local library.

The best source if you plan to do alot of work is the actual shop manual ordered at your Lexus or Toyota parts counter. This will put you into three figures per manual. Some years have two volumes.

steviej

are you frugal or just cheap?

my dad says he is frugal but he will pinch a penny so hard Lincoln will !Removed!. I call that cheap.

As for the car:

start with the cheap stuff (most is DIY)

Definately do this:

1. replace air filter

2. run a few tank fulls of gas with Chevron fuel injector cleaner (w/Techron)...don't use an off name brand. Or better yet, have a professional FI cleaning (~$75-90 US)

3. Replace the plugs. regardless of what the adds tell you, 121,000 is way too much for plugs. If you don't replace them, at least check and regap them.

4. if you have a replaceable fuel filter......replace it.

5. replace the PCV valve. a $5.00 item can make the world of difference.

6. If the 93 SC has a distributor then points and rotor is a must. I would think a 93 has elec. ignition with coil packs but I don't know the SC as well as my ES.

These are the 5 basics, in additon to what you have already done (oil and filter).

Just out of curiosity, with no tune up in 121k miles, what is your current gas mileage?

steviej

Ask to take the car overnight and drive it as you would your own.

If the dealer is serious about selling the car and they feel you are serious about buying the car, then yes they will let you take a demo overnight (at least my dealer did). I explained that Iwanted to experience the car at night as well as in the daylight. Visibility and blind spots change with lighting. A car that rides and drives well in daylight may be a total terror at night.

You never know until you ask.

Steviej

I don't think you have to go that far.

Kneel in the back seat facing out the back. Grasp the plastic cover with both hands and pull it towards you then with you thumbs try to hook the part of the cover opposite the window and push up.

The cover should just pop up. If it does not, you might need the help of a flat head screwdriver just under one corner.

Be very careful, you don't want to break any tabs nor do you want to put the screwdriver so far in it will puncture the speaker if you have one under there.

Then remove the bulb. Simply grasp the bulb and pull up. It should come right out.

Replace with the same type of bulb (should be about $2 and change). I think it is sylvania #7440 (same as rear turn and back up light). Grasp the new bulb with a tissue....don't touch the bulb with your fingers. Place it in where the old came out.

Go step on the brake and make sure it works. Replace the cover.

Enjoy the rest of you day. B)

I just did this on my friends 98 Avalon. Should be the same or very similar.

steviej.

wicked nice rims.

I particularly like the Nestles Crunch wheel weight (front_lip.jpg). :P

Wheels and summer treads are next on my list.

steveij