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steviej

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Posts posted by steviej

  1. check with your actual salesperson and sales manager. This may be a variable dealer upgrade. Some dealers may offer it to promote sales and some may not. The 800 number will only give you the 'headquarters stance' but not the actual practice from the dealership you purchased the car from.

    I didn't bother with the nav system cause people are always telling me where to go. :blushing:

    sj

  2. if you are sure they did the test wrong you should be able to get your money back but you will never know unless you ask.

    try these steps.

    1. go to the garage and ask for your money back. Speak with the manager and tell him what you found out. Show him the results of the tests done correctly. They may not have been trying to scam you. It may have been performed by an inexperienced technician. Tell them you will pursue the issue in small claims court and you will notify the DMV and the better business bureau if they do not resolve the issue immediately.....ie refund your money.

    if no money:

    2. send a certified "30 day letter" to the manager, asking again, and state particulars of the meeting you had in person. Clearly state that if your request is not met within 30 days, then you will proceed with litigation in small claims court. State that you will still report this garage to the better business bureau and the DMV. If you have a friend or relative that is a lawyer, have them write the letter for you on their letterhead. Just the sight of that usually will acheive the results you seek.

    if no money:

    3. file a suit in small claims court. If you go to court, you will need absolute evidence that they performed the test in the wrong order and that you made no modifications to the car to get it to pass when the test was performed correctly. This won't even go past pretrial arbitration. If you win, they will even have to pay your filing fee. (usually about $20).

    good luck.

    steviej

  3. those are easy fixes. IF you can DIY, then do it.

    If you prefer a service center, look into Lexus certified Toyota service centers. They usually are less price, but with this you are only talking maybe $5.00/hour on labor. At any place the plugs are about $3 each x 6 and the PCV is about $5 x 1.

    Just make sure the PCV is Toyota OEM and not some Autozone off label brand.

    sj

  4. amf1932 couldn't have said it better.

    I am getting 24mpg around town, stop and go, etc.

    close to 30 mpg if it is all out highway at 70-75mph with autopilot engaged. The only mod was a K&N air filter, but I ain't restarting that fire.

    several factors will effect gas mileage. Most of all you style of driving. It is as simple as how you accelerate. heavy foot on the gas and get moving quickly OR gradual acceleration and go with traffic.

    The condition of the air filter, fuel filter, oil and oil filter (but you said you just changed that) will play a major part.

    Also the age, condition and gap of the spark plugs will have an effect as well as the efficiency of the fuel injectors. Replacement of plugs is a consideration. A simple trottle body cleaning as well as several gas treatments can be done in the driveway. A professional cleaning goes for about $75-90.

    One of the most overlooked item to rob you of gas mileage is the PCV valve. This is also easily replaced DIY if you have the proper tools. It is also a $5.00 item.

    start with the cheapest and work your way up. after each thing you do, calculate you mpg over at least 2-3 tankfuls to see if it is steady or climbing.

    good luck.

    steviej

  5. Chilton and Hayes both publish an aftermarket service manual for the 97-01 ES. (also covers Camry, Avalon and Solara). You can get this for about $20 on Amazon. The answers you seek will be found there.

    You may also find an authentic Lexus service manual for your 98 on ebay. From the dealer, they are a 2-3 volume set and run for about $100-$150 each.

    I haven't used the non-Lexus published CD version so frequently sold on ebay, so I won't comment.

    steviej

  6. pressure test the system. you can rent the tool from any Autozone. If it doesn't hold, then you got a leak.

    If it is the head gasket, you can also back pressure each cylinder (with the radiator cap off) to see if the head gaskets are a problem. Children don't do this test without proper supervison. :rolleyes:

    If you think it is the radiator cap, just replace it. If the problem continues, it wasn't the cap, but it only cost a few bucks.

    It may be the thermostat, but I would not expect the overheating if the thermostat is of the "fail open" type. I believe that is all toyota uses. If it failed in the closed position, you will overheat. If is failed in the open position, you will not attain normal operating temperatures but you can drive the car.

    My guess is the water pump. grab the water pump belt pulley at 3 and 9:00. Try to move one side back and the other side front. If you can wiggle it or is clanks it is dead. (my guess is this is the problem.) That is a dealer changed item.

    In any event, you need to have a mechanic look at the car.

    Stop leaks and liquid coagulants only treat the symptoms, the underlying cause remains and is gonna bite you in the wallet/!Removed! if you don't get it looked at. If you continue to constantly overheat, sooner or later you are going to crack your block or warp you cylinder head.

    steviej

  7. I am assuming you have no check engine light showing, correct?

    Do this in this order.

    1. Run a bottle of fuel injector cleaner through on 1/2 a tank of gas. Run it through.

    2. Just before you go to get inspected again, change your oil and filter.

    3. Run the car on the highway, doing the speed limit for about 30 minutes and then drive right to the inspection place, have them test it ASAP, while the engine and cat. conv are HOT not warm.

    You are only over limit by 16 ppm. If it still doesn't pass, then you start replacing items. (If the seller is paying then go for broke)

    skp mentions the EGR valve....possible but I would expect a check engine light if it were malfunctioning. Like an O2 sensor, they work or don't work. When they don't work, you get a warning light. EGRs go for about $250.00 US each.

    I would start with fresh spark plugs, throttle body cleaning, new air filter. If these are dirty, they won't necessarily set off the warning light.

    steviej

  8. if your ES has a sunroof, all the more reason to NOT install an aftermarket trailer hitch or use a temporatary hitch. The presence of a sunroof means less structural integrity of the body.

    Be safe, look into a rental. You don't want to get half way there and have the tranny overheat or something else crucial go on vacation too.

    steviej

  9. the check engine light can mean anything from a loose gas cap to a sensor that has "failed" (not recieved or transmitted the proper signal given the information it must process). Yours is a late model ES so that means lots more sensors and more electroncs.

    Most often the check engine light has to do with emissions, air/fuel mixtures and engine electronics.

    The best thing, since you just bought it. Take it to the dealer (if it was bought from a dealer) and have them read the code. Don't just cancel out the code. The car is telling you something, listen to it. There should have been at least a 60 day warranty from the dealer. If it was a private sale, then there should be at least a 30 day warranty period. Unless stated at the time of sale, you may have legal ground for the previous owner to pay for any repair.

    As for the headlight exchange, it shouldn't have any impact on the check engine light, unless a sensor wire was accidentally broken, bent, disconnected during the headlight transplant.

    Word of note, if you can't make it to a dealer, Autozone will read any trouble codes free of charge.

    good luck.

    steviej

  10. the parts counter of your local Lexus dealership.

    try removing the velcro. Goo Gone and AdheSol are over the counter products that remove the residual adhesive that will be left and they won't harm the plastic (UNLESS THEY ARE XYLENE based).

    Last ditch effort is to go to local salvage yards.

    steviej

    Personnally, Coach leather makes a very nice sunglasses case.

  11. if not sap then they had some toxic/acid bird crap. I vote for sap. My guess would be that it was parked under a pine tree. I say this because turpentine is made from pine sap. Where (geographical location) did you buy the car from?

    I wonder if the previous owners tried to paint or had the trunk and hood surface painted at one time and the clear coat was not applied correctly or even at all.

    skp suggestion of a clay bar is a good start. It is acutally a very cool product and works well.

    I printed the pics, and will show them to my friend.

    He is a master bodyshop painter. I will see what he thinks.

    steviej

  12. OH OOOH! How did you switch from the orange to the green?

    Did you do a complete flush with water and continue with water until all the orange was gone. Then completely empty the water and replace with a 50:50 green:water mixture. You would have had to completely drain the orange coolant from the engine block, too. Just draining the coolant from the radiator is not enough.

    The orange coolant (long life) is not compatible with the regular green. If the orange was not COMPLETELY drained, there may have been residual left in the system. The residual orange mixes with the new green coolant and forms a precipatate (sludge) that will clog the small passage ways in the radiator. Clogged passage ways will result in poor coolant circulation and poor heat transfer (in both directions). Thus giving you the exact situation you describe: non-stable and inconsistent temperature readings.

    steviej

  13. I believe in the 93 ES the fan is run off of the power steering pump. That is why the pump is brought into question.

    The 93 also only has one fan. Two fans were brought into play until later and then they were both electric.

    Before you go spending alot of money, first visually check the radiator and A/C condensor. Alot of times the fins get bent and/or lots of debris and dirt get in between the two. If is very easily cleaned out. Dirt and debris build up here will reduce the amount of air flow that is supposed to pass through. Redection in air flow with screw up you cooling system too.

    skp has a very good point that is often overlooked. If the coolant temperature sensor is starting to fail, not reading the right temp and sending the wrong signal, all readings are off.

    This is easily checked with the proper scan tool. It is also easily replaced.

    good luck.

  14. The price form tire rack, keep in mind that if it is just for the tires you still have to have the old ones taken off, new valve stems put in, then the new ones have to be balanced. The tire place will charge you to dispose of your old ones (not much though).

    Figure in another $50-$100.

    Look into the protection plan for all four tires. This can be purchased from any dealer that sells the brand you buy. You just need to show the date of purchase and the serial numbers on each tire to be covered.

    Watch your local papers. Sometimes Michelin and Goodyear dealers run a sale, buy 3 get one free. Sears and NTB are competative and will match most advertised pricing. Shop around.

    I have Bridgestone RE92s (215/60-16). They are ok, quiet, adequate in rain and snow. They are not OEM on the 03 ES300. They went to Michelin and TOYO. I don't know if that is a sign or did Michelin come through with a better bulk deal this model year.

    I very much liked the Goodyear Aquatred and most likely will go with them next. (within the next 10k).

    good luck. take it easy on the gas pedal. I don't know about CA but in MA you get caught doing 110 mph, your tire money just bought a $500 ticket.

    steviej

  15. Thanks Zeta.

    I actually went by my Lexus dealer after work today and found the same thing you did. I really appreciate the help, though.

    I am also taken back that this is all that holds the wheel well lining to the bumper. Not much to mount spash guards here, so there goes that idea, too.

    steviej

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