steviej

skp, don't assume everyone takes their cars to the "get your feet wet in DIY bay" car wash. If it is a drive thru, then we have no control over the spray or direction or pressure or duration.

Lex, it is odd that it takes "a few days" to dry out. However, even if there was water getting into the inside of the door, there are drain holes, so water should not be pooling. This is a little puzzling, especially since I can not see it up close and personal.

A thought would be to remove the inside panel, then gently spray the outside of the window with your own garden hose (low pressure of course) and see if water is leaking into the inside of the door. you may even be able to pinpoint where. It may be that the seal or trim piece that acts as a barrier may need replacing. Piece of cake, had to do this once cause Circuit City broke one on my SSEi while trying to pry it up.

steviej

ProZac, don't become to paranoid with your Lex.

Power windows, AC, rear window defogger, power seats, and other power options create a drastic drain on the system and you will see a dimming of light. This is accentuated when you are at idle or not moving becuase you focus on the dimming rather than the driving. Don't worry. This is normal in a Lex and 99% of all cars out there.

You have a problem when the car becomes hard to start or the voltage light stays on longer than normal after startup.

the "you" is collective and not directed at ProZac particularly so don't flame me for the verbage.

steviej

LexuSY..........EXACTLY!!!!

sj

skp, is that grand US or Canada?

reman. half shafts (with packed CVs) can be had for less than a buck 50 ($150.00 US) from autozone, lappens, napa, etc.

This can be a DIY in your driveway if you know what your doing or know someone who knows what they are doing.

My dad and I did the one on my SSEi last year.

Now if you plan to take it to the dealer, then figure $500 US but insist on a reman......its way cheaper.

MCV20, good luck.

steviej

skp we call that dunlop syndrome.

It is where your belly done lop over your belt.

sj

you may find it easier and quicker if you went to the Toyota parts counter and asked the parts guy if the part you are looking for for the ES is cross-referenced for the Camry (or if the Camry part is cross-reference for the ES). You may find that some parts are the same and may be cheaper from Toyota.

good luck.

steviej

jet's ecu is crap, the stock ecu is better.

invest your money on something else.

steviej

The Hayes or Chilton manual for the 94 Camry V6 should cover you for most at home DIY projects.

Other than that, go Lexus Factory Manual.

97-01 ES have a Hayes manual with ES in the title.

steviej

they look nice, but they also still look like 16's.

I think maybe a 17 or 18 will look even nicer.

steviej.

Mine are coming. but like zeta said, chrome may be a little too bling bling. I'm looking at polished stainless, too. A little less reflection but still has shine. Tirerack and a car I park near on the way to work have an awesome 5 spoke.

steveij

i'm putting money on that it is the motor.

The switch is ON or OFF. Current to the motor or no current to the motor. Not slow current to the motor so the motor runs slow. If the motor moves at all, then current is passing thought the switch, so the switch contacts must be making contact. I say the brushes in the electical motor are worn out so good contact cannot be, thus limiting the motion of the window due to poor performance of the motor under load conditions.

I'm going on past experience with window motors, current experience with electical motors (not just window) and gut instict.

just my $0.02

steviej

zeta, when I was in high school (1980), I was paying $0.65/gallon and my blazer got 10 miles to the gallon and nobody cared as long as everyone threw in $3.00. Times have changed.

steviej

gav, you need to get an owners manual for your car.

They are only about $20 from the dealer or ebay.

Look on ebay too. you might be able to catch one that has the leather pouch and supplemental manual too.

Alot of basic answers are in there and it will help in the resale if you ever plan to do that.

steviej

they are probably analog, but that still works.

I would assume you could get it going. Contact Lexus or the maker of the phone, ie: Nokia or whomever makes it. You may have to bring it (the car) to the phone store.

Does it get power, light up, etc?

steviej

it might help if you list the brand and make of the tires in guestion.

steviej

ALWAYS cross check your pricing on these types of items at a local Toyota dealership. You will be surprised.

steviej

like the commercial on TV with the baby riding down the street in the Michelin tire.....alot depends on your tire.

price is something to consider.

You don't put $200 tires on an $80 car and you don't put $50 tires on $30,000 car. In any case you get what you pay for.

Watch the sales in your area. Michelin and Goodyear often run 3 for 4 sales. Those are my two favorite companies.

Watch you tread rating. Sumotumo are a harder rubber to give a longer lasting thread. The trade off is a rougher ride.

I don't trust Bridgestone/Firestone, but have them......only thing

I can say, they will be replaced within 10,000 miles.

I had BF Goodrich, didn't last to 30,000 miles. Replaced with Goodyear Eagle II's. I was 23 in a turbo GT.....I tore them up.

I love the Goodyear Aquatred (I had series I, series 3 is sold now).

It's a toss up between Michelins and Goodyear within the next 6 months.

good luck. research everything.

steviej

welcome to my world.

this is the one of the same complaints on the 02 tranny. Apparently they didn't fix it.

Search back (in CL) on 02 trannies and you will see a long detailed letter to lexus.com and thier responces concerning this problem.

The whole problem is shift logic. It doesn't shift when we think it should, or when we would if we had a manual or if it were a four speed auto.

There may be some joggling/bucking when going 40 mph in D. The car wants to go to 4 but the logic says stay in 5, thus producing the buck. push the lever over to 4 and it goes away or speed up to 45 and it goes away.

The hesitation is common if you stomp it. If you go 3/4 to the floor you get more acceleration and shifting ot one gear instead of the the drop in 2 gears which brings your rpms right up to 5-6k.

Lexus says its not a problem and the ECU will learn the driver's style and adjust, and most users complain it is and the hesitation can lead to possible accidents. There are complaints on it to NTSB (?NTHB) but I guess not enought to warrant Lexus/Toyota to move on the problem. (I have the web site if needed). Pop an email off to Lexus.com to register the complaint, the more owners that bring it up the better.

take care,

steviej

if you ride around with the check engine light on, how are you informed of any new "important" or car threatening problems that trigger the check engine light?

The check engine light means something is not right. Get the codes read.

steviej

in the US (I speak for New England) I think it goes something like this:

87: regular unleaded

89: special unleaded

93: premium unleaded

94: ultra unleaded (Sunoco only)

I forgot to mention another possbility and lex jogged my memory. It ain't alzheimers, it just the beginning stages of CRS (can't remember sh#@)

Toyota has been plaqued with a simple problem. The plastic duct (accordian style) that connects the air box to the throttle body is prone to getting pin prick holes in the folds of the plastic.

The tiniest hole can screw up the ECM signal from the MAF sensor. It is tiny so that under accleration or heavy air flow, you don't feel anything. But, under idle, enought 'extra" air gets in after the MAF sensor to cause a slight roughness.

Take the hose off, put a small MAGLITE (high intensity flashlight) in it, cover both ends with something (I used two styrofoam plates). Sit in a totally dark room and see if you see any pin prick holes. They will light up.

I have seen this be the cause on more than several occasions.

steviej

zeta, have grandpa call his dealer.

supposedly there is a recall on some Toyos. I don't know if it is model specific or vehicle specific, or tire serial number specific.

check it out.

Steviej

if it screws up the electronic modulated suspension, you can always sell it to a non-EMS ES owner for $20.00.

I don't have the EMS but my 02 came standard with the strut bar. I assume the EMS equiped new ES's will have the bar standard too. The computer will should adjust accordingly for its presence.

give it a go.

steviej

keep in mind, strut bars for the same year Camry V6 should fit, and may yield more possibilities than just looking for an ES strut bar.

Here is a pic. from a Club Lexus member's ES with a Camry strut bar installed.

the check engine light comes on when one of MANY sensors involved in the emisison/fuel/air/delivery systems of the car either recieves or transmitts a signal not in accordance with what the ECU is expecting.

could be as simple as a loose gas cap or could be as expensive as a bad EGR valve.

When the CEL comes on, have the code(s) read as well as all codes in memory should be reviewed.

Autozone still does that for free around here.

Lexus/Toyota may charge you a diagnostic fee. If they do, and you need work done, make sure they discount you the diagnostic fee if you agree to have the work done by them.

keep us posted.

steviej

true, but it all depends on who makes the buld as to what it is labelled. Some bulbs have two different numbers.

ie: 9005s are also known as HB3.

steviej

do a search, this topic has been covered before.

steviej