steviej

stand in front/side of the, have someone else step on the brake and put it in gear then back to neutral. Try to pinpoint the sound. It may be the valves or it may be a fuel injector may be going bad. try to pinpoint where the noise comes from. 24 mpg city, 30 mpg highway good luck. steviej

save the timing belt for 90k. check out Lexus certified Toyota dealership/service shops. They will usually run a couple of hundred less. steviej

amf1932 and myself got the spoiler from spoilerdepot.com. totally awesome design. It will come in factory paint for $100. I got mine through my dealership and they installed, total = $650 both LED and high mount brake light work. steviej

Aus, you might be able to get the center caps here: http://www.lexus-parts.com/prodlist.asp?Su...ubCategoryID=84 good luck steviej

JP Performance is the only company making a 1MZ-FE header. http://www.jpperformancellc.com/ steviej

I replaced the stock H3 fogs with PIAA Xtreme Whites in my 02 ES. Only to replace those with the Ion Crystals (I like the look or the yellow better). The Xtreme whites give the fog almost the same blue tint as the HID setup. The 99 ES may be similar. 1. Rasie the car and support with two jackstands. Never trust the jack alone. 2. Remove the bolts that hold the black plastic shield(s). (the 02 had 5 10mm bolts along the underside of the bumper. 3. The black plastic push pins come next. There where about 10-12. The 02 ES had 2 sections. I removed all but one push pin for each section. This way I could rotate the shield out of the way of the back of the fog light and get my head up in there. The shield was still attached so realignment took seconds. 4. The push pins could be removed carefully OR with a large screw driver and a Ford Wrench (big f....n hammer). Just knock the head off them. I actually used a large screwdriver and pryed them out. They will make a pop and fall out. The 02 had pins that break upon removal. Don't worry, they are cheap. 5. The back of the fog light has a plactic cover that will turn 90 degrees and then pull out. Don't pull to far cause it is connected by two wires. One is the switch and one is the power to the bulb. 6. The white wire (for the stock and PIAAs) is the bulb wire, it pulls out from the housing unit with a little tug. 7. There is a spring clip that you push in and at the same time move to one side, then it pulls toward the back, releasing pressure on the bulb. Hold the bulb from the back. Pull it out slowly and orient yourself with the cut-outs on the ground plate of the bulb. One side had a square notch and opposite that was a half moon notch. Remeber which is up and which is down, or left and right. The exiting bulb is your guide for insertion of the new bulb. 8. Insert the new buld in the same orientation, put the spring clip back, plug in the wire, replace the black cover and move to the other fog light. DON'T TOUCH THE BULB WITH YOUR BARE FINGER. Body oils will create hot spots on the glass and the crack or burn out quicker. 9. The other fog light interesting enough was the same, but the spring clip and wire were opposite and upside down from the first side. My guess is that Lexus makes one housing and uses it on both sides, thus making a mirror image. 10. Turn on your lights to see if you connected them right. 11. Stand back and admire your work. 12. Get back under the car and reposition the shields. Put the bolts in but not tight all the way. 13. Replace the push pins with new ones (Lexus parts department if you want original) or AutoZone for a bag of push pins--usually a bag of 10 costs about $3.00. The push pins come in many sizes and varieties. Bring one of the popped originals with you to size correctly. The christmas tree type can be used several times before the multitude of tiny barbs are too weak. 12. Tighten the bolts, lower the car. Drive to friend's house and show them what you did. Enjoy the rest of your day. This took me about 45 minutes. I didn't raise the car, so it was a bit tight but do-able. My car is stock and not lowered, so it was a little easier to get my head and arms up under the front. The PIAAs were $63.99/pr. They are a 55w buld but emit the equivalent of a 110w. Replace the bulb with the same wattage (check your manual). There ain't much room in the housings for more heat. Good luck and have fun. sj

look around this web site. http://www.autoanything.com/petproducts.asp I didn't have time to plug in ES, but look around. hope that helps. steviej

Clickman, just three words. www.crutchfield.com they will provide the harness needed and printed instructions for your exact vehicle if they have it. Of course you gots to do the work. Check it out. (do check out Best Buy and Circuit City, too, as stated before) steviej

radar detectors are a pain in the a$$ here in MA. There are so many automatic door openers in the malls, stores, etc and so many alarm/security motion detectors that use the X-band, the radar detectors are constantly going off (even in city mode). The latest craze with the MA state police is laser speed detectors. Granted the the detectors have the ability to warn you of this, but the police have instant on. Once the point and shoot, they have your speed before you can even flinch to get your foot off the gas. It's not worth it here. It's cheaper to drive 5-10 mph over the limit (they usually give you this) and save the outlet for the hair dryer. steviej

change your oil regularly and change the filter each time. Every 3k with dino, or 5k with synthetic. You might want to start saving your pennys. The timing belt should be changed at 90k. Have the entire 90k service done. Unless you have maint. records from the previous owner, you don't know what has been done. Have you Lexus dealer run the VIN to see what service in on record with them (their system should be able to pull up vehicle specific maint.) This way you are in essence starting out on a new foot with YOUR maintenance intervals. Not to scare you but the 90k is upwards of a grand, price it out at a Lexus ceritified toyota dealership, they will be a little less expensive. Watch your valve cover gaskets, the 1MZ-FE has a history of leaking late in life. The best thing to do, is ask anything you want. No question is dumb. But before you ask, I encourage you to use the "SEARCH" fucntion. You may find that your question has been asked....and answered before. Welcome to the club. oh yeah......what school? steviej

sorry, forgot the pic. steviej

Alan (amf1932) and I have the same spoiler. I actually got my through the dealership I bought the car at. The grand total for spoiler and installation was $650.00. They just happen to have one in silver in stock in the parts department. The mechanic did scratch it, so they took $100 off the grand total. I saw the scratch but didn't say anything to see if they would offer up some money. I took the scratch out with a little rubbing compound and then a cleaner wax. Both the high mount and LED brake lights work. The LED is wired into the high mount, so no it is not one or the other. I could agree with amf1932 more, all the more notice to the driver behind you. have it done right and have it done once. steviej

I have talked about this hose in many previous posts here and on CL for rough running idles. It is probably the most overlooked problem part on Toyota and Lexus engines. The funny part is, the hole can be as small as a pin prick and still give you problems. Easy DIY fix. steviej

I do and so does amf1932. here is link with a couple of pics. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?& If it doesn't work, go to the wheel/tire forum, look for a post abouot my 18" Enkeis and Toyos. hope it helps. Steviej

call around to a few windshield installation shops, some will remove the old mount and afix the new mount to you windshield for about $20.00. However, they probably won't toucht he wiring. I have heard of people running it behind the support pillar to get it under the dashboard to power. Others have wired it into the lights and sunroof power cords in the overhead panel. steviej

Alan, do you actually drive by the compass? I see it in my mirror but I still drive mainly by the road signs. If you recalibrate it, then you just have to recalibrate it when you get home. Unless you think you are going to get lost, leave it be, use the navi system and the road signs. Have a safe trip, enjoy the drive and the company in the car. Most of all, stop cluttering your mind with these little things to worry about. What little difference there may be between zones will not point you in the wrong direction. Look at the map you posted, you will be going from 11 to 7. Are you going to recalibrate it in each zone? Of course we won't. What did we do when there were no compasses in the car? Have a great time. Steve J.

smack them with the butt of a hammer from the back side. They should just pop out. Look to see if there is a tiny hex screw first. steviej PS, you can buy replacement ones that have the L. www.lexus-parts.com look under wheels, they are called center caps.

just use the nav system instead. I don't think you will have a problem. Its is not like the car is being airlifted to a totally new destination half way cross the globe. You are only changing 1 or 2 zones. steviej

I second the trunk lockout swicth in the glove compartment. It is very easy to accidentally hit and engage. This switch cuts out power to the driver's switch. It is so you can lock valuables in the trunk, then cut out power to the switch, lock the glove compartment and give your valet key to the kid parking your car. The valet key won't access the glove comparmtnet and thus the possibly dishonest valet can't access your valuable. Get the ABS light checked by Lexus. It could very well be a wheel sensor ($). Hopefully it is not the ABS pressure modulator valve assembly ($$$$$$$). Either way, you don't have antilock braking capability while the light is on. steviej

use the search funtion. sj

possilby the brake release switch. There is a switch that is activated when you step on the brake to take the shift lever out of park. Maybe this has crapped out. I think this is tied into the brake light switch. Can you shift using the manual override? steviej

radio refrequency It didn't work on my TV.....I was just kidding. But I did try. steveij. It is set up to be used for garage doors, privacy gates, outdoor walkway lighting, etc.

mine came standard with it, it is between the visors. It's good stuff. I even tried programming my TV remote to button #3 so that it was on when I got in. CAN YOU SAY LAAAAZZZZYYYYYYY!!!! :chairshot: steviej

I'm not stumped, I I'm just tired of doing all the work BUT OK. Lexus ES300 2002/2003 SYLVANIA Lamp Replacement Guide LEXUS 2002 ES300 Scroll down to view all replacement bulbs for this vehicle, or select a specific application from this list: Please SelectLow beam headlamp High beam headlamp Parking light Rear turn signal Tail light Stop light High mount stop light Fog/Driving light License plate Back up light Front sidemarker Rear sidemarker Glove box Dome light Step/Courtesy light Trunk/Cargo area When more than one part number is listed for the same application, please refer to your owners manual to determine which lamp is right for your vehicle. If you would like to try another make, year and model, click here. Low beam headlamp Part number = H7 With replaceable halogen capsules Upgrade Part Number = H7CB Cool Blue Halogen Upgrade - White Hot; Super Cool; 100% Street Legal Part number = HID With HID (high intensity discharge) headlamps High beam headlamp Part number = 9005 Upgrade Part Number = 9005ST "Silverstar High Performance Halogen Upgrade - Whitest, Brightest, 100% Street Legal" Upgrade Part Number = 9005CB Cool Blue Halogen Upgrade - White Hot; Super Cool; 100% Street Legal Parking light Part number = 2825 Rear turn signal Part number = 7440 Tail light Part number = 2825 Part number = 7443 Stop light Part number = 7443 High mount stop light Part number = 7440 Fog/Driving light Part number = H3-55W License plate Part number = 2825 Back up light Part number = 921 Upgrade Part Number = 921LL Long Life Upgrade - Up to twice the life of the standard lamp Front sidemarker Part number = 194 Upgrade Part Number = 194LL Long Life Upgrade - Up to twice the life of the standard lamp Rear sidemarker Part number = 2825 Glove box Part number = 37 Dome light Part number = DE3175 Step/Courtesy light Part number = 2825 Trunk/Cargo area Part number = DE3021 Hope you find the one you need. Steviej Try www.crutchfield.com and www.jcwhitney.com and www.autoanything.com for various color bulbs.

www.sylvania.com then go to automotive lighting then plug in the numbers for your car, year, model, etc. you will find the number, it should be universal. steviej