steviej

I buy the cheapest I find. It is usually blue and I get it at the supermarket or Costco. If get it at Costco, I usually by a case of 6 cause it is even cheaper that way. I tried the Rain-X stuff, but my blades started leaving rubber smudges. This also happened when I used the actual Rain-X liquid directly on the glass. From now on, I save the rain-x for my boat (it doesn't have wipers). I have heard awesome things about PIAA wipers. Pricey but supposedly the best and they last for a year or more. The dealer replaces the blades on the 15k services. steveij

It stands to reason the 1993 car has green coolant. The red ethylene glycol based coolant, (aka: Dexcool or Long Life) wasn't introduced to the consumer market until about 1996, so lets not start this crap about green vs red, AGAIN. I think if he had the red, it would still give him the temp readings that were described. This problem is a mechanical one, not a coolant color one. There is not sufficient transfer of heat from the coolant in the radiator when summer/warm air is flowing through the radiator. The heater trick helps to take heat out of the coolant from the other end. We can rule out the waterpump, cause if it were bad even the heater trick would not help (regardless of the coolant color) and the car would overheat immediately. Colloe3, you fail to mention if you are using the AC during the first 30 miles, minutes of you travel. Is the AC on before you have to switch to high heat? I think some good points have been mentioned. 1. Either the radiator is paritally clogged and a thin pasasge radiator is now thinner. 2. The fan is not running at full capacity if it is running at all. 3. There could be alot of fins on the outside of the radiator and AC condensor that are bent and not allowing sufficient air flow throught the both of them. 4. There could also be a ton of leaves and debris between the condensor and the radiator. Observe the fan or have a shop test to see if the fan is working properly. I would then try a new cap and a total flush (not just the radiator). Do them one at a time (the cap is the cheaper of the two) to isolate the problem for future benefit. If neither of them work, then I would start thinking of new radiator as poneyboy suggested. good luck and post what you do to solve your heated situation. steviej

the drop in filter is just as the name says. It simply "drops" into the stock air box that the stock air filter goes. You take out the old Denso white fiberlike air filter and put the k & n in its place. chill...can you follow that. go to k&n's wedsite and find your filter. should run around $35-50 depending on where you buy it. AND YOU NEVER HAVE TO BUY A FILTER AGAIN....that is what I learned from business class. I don't give a crap about inflation rates over 10 years either. I just know that is about $2000 that I won't have to spend on extra gas and stock filters. do you follow what I am saying here. here is the link to find you filter, and on k&n's wed site you can find a list of mail order firms that should have it in stock. http://www.knfilterchargers.com/search/appsearch.aspx have a nice weekend. :whistles: steviej

dcfish chill out.....I think you will see that sk's comments were more intended for jhauck.....not you. It seems this thread is going no where and attitudes are on the rise. If the car came with red coolant then it was because Toyota felt it a better coolant to ship in the cars or that is the only coolant they ship in their cars. May be for financial, mechanical, or whatever reasons, we will never know, but Toyota had their reasons. The websites on Dexcool simply say "due to a few studies", or "it has been seen that mixing the two types of coolants has been shown to" blah blah blah. And yes there are class action lawsuits out there. There are class action lawsuits on tons of products that are out there. We live in a society that likes to sue, sometimes for good reason. Now for all those people that have said don't mix the two (myself being one of them) have you mixed the two and actually seen what happens? If not, then we are only spouting heresay. If you have actually mixed the two, what happened? OR if you have totally flushed the red out and put in the green....what happened? I am starting to feel that if you flush the system extremely well then you should be able to refill with what you want. The question I have now, is why do you want to? At first I wanted to change to the green stuff simply because I have no experience with the red stuff. So, I learned through 1 terrible winter or multiple below freezing temps and NO PROBLEMS and yes I had toasty heat in my car when needed. This summer has yielded many days so far that are extremely hot, and no overheating!! If anything the red stuff does not need to be changed as often and if you keep an eye on it as you do with all your fluids then there should be absolutely no problem. Toyota has had aluminum blocks and aluminum heads for years even when there was no such thing as the red stuff. The green stuff worked fine as long as you kept an eye on it and changed it regularly (every two years is what we did). I think we are all starting to sound like children at recess fighting over who's idea is better. I say we take our attitudes and shove them up our exhaust pipes and move on. This is a website for learning not for fighting and bickering. peace out to all of you. steviej (i know I am going to get flamed for this, but I had to speak my mind)

I'll give it a go. 1. sorry, can't help you here. 2. Some over the counter products will work, Goo-b-gone, Goof Off, and believe it or not.....Avon Skin-So-Soft Original liquid. Don't use thinners or solvents, they will take off the shinny finish. 3. don't know, my 02 opens all the way. 4. new plugs, through in a bottle of Chevron w/Techron FI cleaner with each oil change, and switch to synthetic oil. The air filter will help, or just change at least once per year or 15k miles. Also, the PCV valve ($6.00 part) will decrease your mileage if not clean. 5. YOU ARE RIGHT. 300 = 3.0L, 400 = 4.0L, 430 = 4.3L 330 = 3.3L steviej

I had this the first week I had the car, but repositioning the seat so that more pressure was from my leg rather than the muscles in my foot helped a great deal. Other than that, no complaints ont he throttle, I actually find it very responsive and light on the foot now. I somethimes drive barefoot, too. steviej

the rubber gasket around the moonroof is replaceable too. I have done a couple myself (however, not Lexus.....yet). steviej

I have heard mixed reviews on the Dent King or whatever it is called. 1 person said it popped the dent right out. The other said they could get the glue stuff off later and that it will not pop out creases. I think you have a 30 day money back. Doesn't hurt to try. It if doesn't work, your going to a body shop anyway, right. steviej

check out the June 2002 issue of Hot Rod or go to www.hotrod.com and look in their archieve section. They did a side by side comparison of air filters (OEM and performance). Very interesting. I went with a K&N simply for the ability to not change it in the long run. Rough calculations based on gas saved and not having to buy OEM filters turned out to be about $2000 over 10 years. steviej

I will check it out next sat. at the dealership when they replace my rotors and pads. steviej

yep, open the trunk, there are two removable 3x3 inch panels inside the trunk right behind where the taillights are. On each panel, there are two plastic tabs that push inward and then the panel swings out. Behind these panels are the brake and turn signal bulbs and the wiring. Check it out. steviej

check your alarm system if you have one. That may need to be reset. i have heard of people that hook up the new one and then disconnect the old so they don't loose any settings. I am still trying to figure if they use a jump box or jumper cables and then how do they connect the posts, something at one time has to be disconnected unless the batteries have dual terminals. steviej

if you are serious about doing lots of specialized work at home, absolutely nothing beats the actual shop manual. We pay thousands for wheels and tires, body kits, etc. I think I can cough up a couple humdred for the manauls if I had too. Haynes isn't bad, but they only have a 97-2001 ES manual. I ahve heard that the CDs are only a compilation of pdf files and some where noted to be questionable. Alldata is always a superior source, but it is a subscription. steviej

mine has a funcition, it is wear I put all my $1 coins for the parking at the damn MBTA parking lot. If you live in MA, you know what I am talking about. steviej

Alan, look in your actual manual in the car, see if they are the same as the web site. I am wicked curious now. Steve. bbsal, Sunoco Ultra is 94, their premium is 93. I tried that too and could see paying almost a dime more for what I percieved as no difference. I'll stick with the 93. steviej

Sullivan Auto Mall in Kingston, right off Rt. 3. Lexus certified. There is a shopping mall (Independance Mall) next door, so you can have something to do while waiting. Their waiting room is pretty good, they put out food all day, TV etc. about 1/2 to 3/4 the cost of Lexus of Norwood. Steve

Check with Lexus certified Toyota dealers, the service is usually the same and is half the price. Tranny is flushed at 60k (Lexus wants to do it every 15k). Do what you can, and have Lexus or Toyota do the flushy items. You can request the 60k but you can tell them not to do certain items. Oil/filter, plugs (manual recommends Denso or NGK), air filter, tire rotation, wiper blade replacement, brake pad inspection, car wash (inside and out), AC filter replacement can all be done by you in your driveway. The tranny, coolant, brake fluid and diff flushes I personnaly would leave to the guys with the flush machines. steviej

if you type in ALL CAPS people will think you are yelling at them. Try going through the firewall with/at the steering wheel column. It takes some poking and prodding but that is where most people post that they have put wires through. Why not connect into the fuse box under the dash and use a hot wire from there? steviej

I am retracting my previous reply to this thread. It has been on my mind all day. So, when I got to my car after the boat ride home, I immediately looked up the fuel requirements that are stated in the 2002 owner's manual and I was most suprised. The 2002 Owners manual on page 296 and on the inside back cover both state and I quote (I can't scan stuff at home like Alan) Fuel selection: Select premium unleaded gasoline with an Octane Rating of 91 (Research Octane Number 96) or higher for optimum engine performance. However, if such premium type cannot be obtained, you may temporarily use unleaded gasoline with an Octane Rating as low as 87 (Research Octane Number 91). Fuel tank capacity: 70 L (18.5 gal., 15.4 Imp. gal.) My take is that the manual was changed due to the coorporate lawyers that write/proof read these things before publishing. Or Too many people complained that they had to use premium because "the book said to". OK, so I am not crazy. steviej

sit in your back seat facing out the back window. Very carefully pry up the plastic cover that is on the back deck above the light. All the stuff is under there. Becareful not to break the tabs that hold it in. You might have to grasp with 2 hands and gently pull the cover towards you then up. steviej

I think I did. Hey, maybe I will start trying the 89 stuff and see if I lose mpg or if it knocks. I know I don't like the 87 stuff. Alan, I owe you one.

www.irontoad.com www.lexus-parts.com

get a new one. It is just a door/drawer that flips down. It has to be removable cause the fuse panel is behind it (at least in my car it is). It latch clip is in the door part not in the dash. Call your Lexus dealership and see how much they are. steviej

Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus. I think that is what I am going to. Or Aguatreds. Snow is a concern for me too. I am not thrilled with the Bridgestone Potenza RE92 that came stock. They ahve to go before next winter. Quite on dry pavement though. steviej

I am curious as to why a wheel bearing would go so quickly. You failed to mention how many miles are on it. I wonder if the previous owner hit lots of potholes. I ran 87 octane in my 2002 and hated it. It didn't knock but it just didn't feel quite right. I just go with 93. My manual calls for 91 but no one sells 91 around here (its 87, 89 or 93). steveij