steviej

No--the post is incorrect as it was edited. The first replacement was under warranty. A little over a year later, the mirrors don't work again. There is no warranty. Service knows there is a problem as is apparent from all the forum posts--(not just this string but others too), but goes through an exercise of trying to convince me that driver's side mirrors do not tilt more than 1/4 inch when I know how they performed when they were new. Now there is no warranty. Why can't/won't Lexus go ahead and recall and come up with a fix that won't cost owner's up to $2000 dollars? And why can't Lexus reps just tell us there is a problem rather than suggest that the owner/driver doesn't know what she is talking about when she explains how the mirrors aren't performing? Clearly my complaint is no where near the first that Lexus is aware of. And this malfunction is dangerous when trying to merge onto busy highways I understand your frustration and dread the day mine stop working because I just passed 50k miles. I must ask though: How can this malfunction be dangerous when trying to merge onto busy highways? Correct me if I am wrong, the malfunction will cause the mirrors to cease tilting down when the car is placed into reverse. You do not reverse onto a highway. If the mirrors fail to tilt, then wouldn't you just turn off the auto tilt function and set the mirrors to the desired postition and leave them there? steviej

It is a 9006 bulb. There are two ways to get there. 1. Elevate the front end and take off the entire underbelly splash guard from the side you want to get at. This means alot of screws and push/pop fasteners. Then it is pretty self explanatory. or 2. Turn the steering wheel totally to the fog light opposite of the one you want to get at. This will move the wheel so you can get at the fog light from the wheel well. You will need to remove the 4 10mm bolts from the 9 inch air deflector under the car just in front of the wheel. Then remove several of the 10mm bolts from inside the well well just behind the fog light. There are two large plastic fasterner that have to be removed as well. Turn with a large flathead screwdriver then pop them out. Once that is done, you pry the plastic wheel well liner away from the fender (don't worry, it is not attached or glued). Pry is back enough to get your hand in. The fog light is less than arm's length in. Reach in. Grab the bulb and twist then gently. When the bulb is loose, pull it out of the housing. Then lead the bulb in the connector back to the opening where your arm is reaching in. You can then see the connector and the safety clip that must be pressed while pulling gently on the bulb housing to get it out of the connector. Insert the new bulb, then put the bulb back in the housing and twist again. Make sure the bulb is oriented so that when you twist the bulb to secure it in the housing, the connector is angled straight down. This helps keep water out of the connection. Good luck, it is alot more easier than it sounds. steviej

My interior mirror was vibrating alot, but I attributed it to the bass level that I like my sound system at. For a few days I drove with much less bass and the mirror was still vibrating. I could actually wiggle the mirror with my finger. I found out there is a TSB on this mirror. Seems the older version IS and GS suffer this vibration. TSB NV007 is a replacement mirror. I was 200 miles short of the warranty epxiration so I took it in. They gave me a whole new mirror. My service writer was giggling and I asked her what was so funny. She told me the parts alone for this TSB was $1298.00. I mean, for a mirror, 1300 clams. :chairshot: no wonder our economy is in the crapper. steviej

you can also find them in your owner's manual. :P steviej

your car doesn't have freon, that was abandoned years ago for environmental reasons. That being said, the refrigerant in your car should be covered, if in fact that is the problem. Whatever the problem is, should still be covered under the 50k warranty. steviej

If you are going to invest in a CAI, then be prepared to invest in an exhaust upgrade. What's the sence of being able to take in lots of air if you can't push it out just as fast. steviej

The big question is where has it been stored?: inside or outside. How often has it been driven?: weekly, monthy, etc? 97 is among the sludge years. Find out how often the oil was changed. Definately bring it to a mechanic and have them specifically look for oil sludge or signs of sludge. Like aforementioned, anything rubber should be checked out: hoses, gaskets, belts. This include the calipers and CV boots as well. Check all lines: gas lines and brake lines for rust and corrosion. In addition to engine oil, check condition of all other fluids. If you plan to buy, plan to replace all fluids with new if they haven't been done in a year. Think about the timing belt. Even though it only has 50k miles, it has 12 years. Timing belts are made of rubber as well and changing should really be considered. Now the good part is that the 97 engine is non-interference so if the TB breaks there will be minimal damage. Check the condtion of the tires. If the car has sat for long periods of time, flat spots may have developed. Most mechanics will charge about $100 to $200 for a pre-purchase inspection depending on how thorough they are, but it is money worth spending. Make sure they go over eveything from wiper blades to a compression test of each cylinder to a pressure test of the cooling system. steviej

How is it impractical? A battery costs $80 and is replaced in my garage in far less time than it takes to take the car somewhere and have the battery tested. If I have a car for 10 years, thats roughly 3 times I have to replace the battery for a cost of about $240. If i have spend hours, and money having it tested and lets say I save one replacement and make them last 5 years (which is a long life for any battery) then I've saved $80 and thats assuming I was having it load tested for free. Or I can spend the additional $80 over a vehicle's 10 year lifespan which equates to an additional ownership cost of $8 per year and never have to worry about the battery failing. I can afford an additional $8 a year. Battery every 3 years means you never have to worry about your battery failing you on that first cold day of winter, or after sitting at the airport for 2 weeks. Seems pretty practical for me. I see three more batteries having to be disposed of before they actually have to be in a society that already has too much waste that is hard to dispose of. On a side note, I fear what will happen when the hybrid batteries start to crap out and need to be replaced/disposed. steviej

Take your battery to Autozone and have it load tested for free. If you get 5 years on a battery then you are ahead of the game. Anything after that is sauce for the goose so to speak. You do not have to replace with the Toyota (Panasonic) battery when it dies. Die Hard, Optima, Interstate are all reputable companies. Just get one with the cold cranking amps adequate for your winter climate. steviej

Every set of wheels on my both of my Lexi (2 lexus, 2 sets of wheels each) all had the stick on weights. Most Lexus stock rims don't have a lip to clip the ugly traditional wheel weights on. The look of the wheel is cleaner with the stick ons. Don't worry, they rarely ever come unstuck. As for nitrogen, I think its use in conventional automobiles is a waste of time. I would have just used air. I do suggest that you bring the PSI down to at least 32. You will find a plushier ride. Just play around until you find the PSI you feel most comfortable with. Just don't go below 29. steviej

I keep waiting for my Lex to wink at me like Herbie the Love Bug. steviej

what he said!!!!

During one of my tire replacements on my 02 ES, I went with an H rated tire and could not see or feel any noticable difference between the two speed ratings. steviej

I ask about the intended seasons because I have not heard great reviews about either Michelins in snow. Given you are in Canada and I am sure you get your fair share of snow as do I in New England, I would consider a dedicated set of performance winter tires for the snow months. The Primacy would probably be the quieter smoother of the two. I have the Pilot Sport and will not use them in snow even with AWD but that is my choice. Something to consider, on my 02 ES I put on a set of Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S (215/60VR16) and they were pretty decent in snow, great in rain and on dry pavement and very quiet to boot. steviej

As easy, quick and easy as a DIY drain and fill is, there is a down side. The drain and fill only replaces about 1/4 of the total volume of fluid in the tranny. Hence the reason why I said stick with what is in there, T-IV. Doing it with Amsoil will only give you a 25% mix at best of new Amsoil. The bad odor and discolored fluid concerns me. If a total flush has never been done, and drain and fills were rarely done, then here is an alternative you might want to consider. Many users have done this and reported good results. Perform a simple tranny drain and fill every 750 to 1000 miles over the next few months. After four or five of them the majority of the fluid will be new. I know that on my ES (pre and post flash), I drain and filled every 15k miles and at 108k the fluid was still coming our cherry red and sweet smelling. hope this helps. steviej

are you using these for three seasons? If so, then go with the quieter one. Keep in mind that many sizes of the Primacy in the V rating are being discontinued (at least here in the states). steviej

It just seems to be firmmer. and it did a little buck and jerk.Today it seems a little better, but it is raining so it might have been me...and yes it was just a drain and fill. I was suprised to read on the dipstick that under normal driving conditions the servicing the transmission was not required..Well after 98,000 miles i think that a drain and fill wouldn't hurt anything. next time I'll use AMS-OIL and see if thats better.. I would stick with the TIV. I used to do a drain and fill every 15k miles on my 02 ES. Did you ever have the ECU flashed for the tranny issue? (See the big pinned thread at the top of the forum)? Did you look at the fluid that was drained....what did it look like......cherry red and sweep smelling or brown and burnt smelling? steviej

L-Tuned Parts.com They were $142, then add in shipping. It cost $75 to have them painted in my color. They come with the 3M tape to stick them on. You just have to do some fancy foot work with a pair of scissors to get the tape to match the contour of the edge. Took about 10 minutes for both. The hard part is you get one chance to stick them on and they better be in the right place. Steve

That is the correct fluid. That is also the correct amount assuming you are doing a simple drain and fill. How is it shifting differently? steviej

The light that looks like the rear view of a car with 2 curvey parallel tracks leading from the back is the Slip Indicator Light. (It is covered in the manual). The traction control light says "TRAC OFF" or "TRAC" and the vehicle skid control light is "VSC" steviej

you won't lose, suffer nor let alone notice anything at the speeds you routinely travel. the only area you might find a wee bit of difference (and I mean wee) is in cornering at fast speeds. The H rating does not have stiff a sidewall so you may feel a wicken tiny amount of sway compared to the V rated tire of the same. Given that the ES is floaty boaty anywar, the feeling will most likely....blend. steviej

What can I say, I admit it, I am an accessariholic. So far, I am comfortable with them. Kinda gives it that BMW 745i look though. steviej