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RX400h

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Posts posted by RX400h

  1. Not to downplay the situation, but you should peruse the MB forums some time...

    Never one to miss an opportunity to bash MBZ, eh? :wacko:

    I grow more convinced by the day that you're a Lexus employee.

    I don't think anyone would have doubts about that. Lexus is THE BEST, MB, BMW- BAD BAD ;)- well it' not so hard to figure out who's here ;).

    Why are you surprised that on a Lexus enthusiast club forum you have members who are staunch fans of Lexus vehicles. Go on any forum, you'll find the same thing. Post in a MB forum you think Lexus is a better car. You will get REAMED.

    RX400h doesn't work for Lexus. He's just a Lexus fan. If you don't want to read what Lexus fans have to say, don't post on a Lexus enthusiast site.

    Thats not a request either. We're not going to tolerate anybody's opinion being devalued or our members being rideculed for being fans of this car company. You're welocme to your opinions, and you're welcome to express your opinions. However, you've got to swallow the opinions of others too.

    I have no problem with someone being a fan of something. However, RX400h's dig on MBZ in this thread in particular (but not unique to this thread) came completely out of left field. If you can't be a fan of something without taking pot shots at something else to support your opinion that doesn't seem like a very well-defended opinion. If you can't tolerate someone coming onto this forum and not being all starry-eyed over everything Lexus it seems to me that you're the one thats intolerant of peoples' opinions. If this is jus too inflamatory for you, please feel free to ban me.

    Well, let's look at a similar situation to see if you would view it as off base.

    Back in the late 80s, Chrysler was having a torrid time with failing automatic transmissions. (Check any number of websites to verify this). Now let's say that an owner of an 89 Chrysler New Yorker and an Lexus LS400 posts (in a Lexus forum) that his New Yorker has been more reliable and even handles better than his Lexus. In fact, he states that he would NEVER buy another Lexus again.

    What type of response do you think he (or she) wll receive? Should he get upset and battle the Lexus owners, insisting that since his Chrysler has been trouble-free, our opinon of Chrysler New Yorkers should change dramatically?

  2. Actually, disconnecting the battery does not entirely stop it's discharge. Lead-acid batteries self-discharge at a considerably higher rate than one might expect. You will get longer battery life by keeping it fully charged with a trickle charger.

    Tom

    I agree. Many Corvette guys store their cars for the winter and most use trickle-chargers. They are perfectly safe as long as they are set up correctly. I'd say anything beyond 2 weeks is reason to use one.

  3. Not to downplay the situation, but you should peruse the MB forums some time - horror story after horror story about breakdowns, leaks, rattles, etc. In the almost three years since I've been on this forum, this is the first time I've read anything like this. Is this an epidemic? Not at all. While I am not saying that you shouldn't tell people what happened, I believe it is a very rare occurence.

    Also, I would think that the media in Germany would have a field day with a story like this, considering the fact that Lexus has stolen many a customer from MB over the years.

  4. You found an extra-great dealership, mind machine. :cheers:

    Regarding supposed 13,000 intervals between oil changes. I spoke to the manager of a German vehicle-only repair facility. He told me that the problem with Mercedes is that they (and BMW) cover oil changes at that mileage as part of a "One requirement fits all" policy. He went on to say that many owners should be changing their oil more frequently due to their driving habits. Hence, he's seen engines that failed very prematurely because of lack of maintenance. Yes, if you drive under ideal conditions, you may be able to get away with 13,000 miles between oil changes, but unless you know your oil is still okay, blindly following MB or BMW's free change warranty is not a good idea.

  5. Actually, the NiMH batteries in the RX are good for 150,000 miles according to Toyota's extensive testing. That's significantly more than 5 years worth of driving for most people. During the time it takes to accumulate that many miles, the repair bills for MBs, VWs, Audis, and even BMWs would be exponetially higher than that of any Lexus. Keep any of these German cars long enough and you would know.

  6. Honestly, you couldn't pay me enough to buy a Volkswagen Toureg. It is probably the least reliable SUV in the US. I read an interesting "blurb" in Car & Driver that described their experience driving a Honda Civic Diesel (outside of the US). It wasn't even close to achieving the gas mileage that a Prius gets - so much for a "better" idea! :chairshot:

    Seriously, there wasn't anything better when we bought our RX in 2005 and there STILL isn't anything better, all things considered. Ours is a keeper!

  7. The two colors we like are Bamboo Pearl and the light blue that wasn't available with the 400. When I saw a Bamboo Pearl at the auto show in January of 05, I knew this was the color. It actually appears to change color, depending upon the ambient light intensity and angle. Definitely, we didn't want a dark color, primarily because of where we live (the sun shines every day from April until November), so of the light colors, we feel we made a good choice.

  8. As the Lexus roadside assistance technical person explained to me, the system actually shuts down before the ICE battery is really completely discharged, somehow to protect the drive battery. I'm not so sure that a larger or deep cycle battery will change the computer algorithm that controls this.

    Tom

    Update!!

    Yesterday, I ventured into Advance Auto parts and purchased the Optima Group 51R Yellow Top Deep Cycle battery ($149), installed the battery in less than 5 mins and put everything back together. Installation was a breeze, I didn't have to change the posts like another member stated I would have had to do. The battery works fine, everything booted up OK, I had to re-initialize the windows, (can't use the drivers' 4-window control unit until you manually activate each windows' controls (eg. sit in the back seat and use the buttons back there 1 time- fully up and down). Then your window functions will now work properly from the drivers' controls. I'll let you guys know what happens down the road, if the battery ever dies again and if the battery charges up quickly if it does decide to die on me.

    I believe the battery is listed at 500 CCA, and 650 CA (cranking amps @32 degrees)

    Demand More from Your Vehicle?

    The YellowTop is one of the only true dual-purpose batteries available. It is commonly used in any application that demands cranking power and heavy cycling. Trucks with winches, cars with high-demand audio systems, commercial trucks and equipment all rely on this battery to provide ultimate starting and deep cycle power.

    Benefits and Applications:

    * Dual-purpose

    * Deep cycling and cranking power all packed into one battery.

    * Longer life

    * Lasts up to 2 times longer than traditional flat-plate batteries.

    * More power in the initial 1, 3, 5, and 10 seconds of the starting process than comparably rated conventional lead-acid batteries.

    * Higher reserve capacity

    * Constant performance quality, which keeps your battery running at the same level even as it's being discharged.

    * Optimal starting power

    * More power in the initial 1, 3, 5, and 10 seconds of the starting process than comparably rated conventional lead-acid batteries.

    * Longer shelf-life (lower self-discharge)

    * Ideal for seasonal use, fully charged it can sit unused for up to 12 months at room temperature (or below) and still start a vehicle.

    * Vibration resistance

    * 15 times more resistant to vibration than traditional lead-acid batteries.

    * Leak-proof

    * Mountable in almost any position

    What does everyone take of the "More power in the initial 1, 3, 5, and 10 seconds of the starting process than comparably rated conventional lead-acid batteries." Isn't our battery used just to start up the engine every 3 seconds? It doesn't run the P/S and A/C right?

    The Yellow top is indeed a "Deep-Cycle" battery. It was designed for vehicles with heavy drain accessories, such as one or more very powerful amps, driving giant subwoofers. The disadvantage of a deep cycle battery is that on average, this type of battery will not last as long as a standard-charge AGM (absorbent glass mat) or lead acid battery. The same is true of our NiMH batteries. If we were to somehow deep-cycle them, as one would of camera batteries, their life would suffer. From what I've seen in many car forums, Yellow tops can last up to 4 years before needing to be replaced. According to Consumer Reports, the best battery out there right now is the Sears Platinum AGM battery, but at $180 each, they are not cheap!

  9. post-8189-1157244865_thumb.jpgWell,

    After investigating another thread on this forum and finding out for myself that a typical strapwrench was not going to work on the oil filter I went to Autozone and bought the right tool (see picture) for under $7.00. This bad boy slips over the rear end of the filter with nary a problem. Stick your 3/8s ratchet with a two inch extension in the hole in the back of the tool. As you loosen the filter the springloaded mechanism grabs hold of the filter and gets progessively tighter when more torque is applied.

    Toyota filters have an anti backflow valve. Best part about this is that if you get the filter flipped over fast enough you basically loose next to no oil. Sure enough, I had a total of two drips on the ground. :D

    By the way that filter will go through a gap between the catalyst off the header and the fan housing. As you face the car this to the right of where the filter mounts to the block. Before you start the job test fit the new (and dry) filter through the gap.

    I recognize that the K&N filter might be a bit easier to remove but the tool is a better investment over the life of the car. The tool makes the job so easy I reccomend saving your money and buying the toyota filter.

    To get the new filter on and tightened by hand I grabbed the filter with some emory paper in my hand for better grip.

    My total oil change time: 30 minutes, filter came out the top, and not nearly the big deal I originally envisioned.

    Hope this is helpful to you other DIY guys.

    Brad,

    That's some good information on changing oil, but it would be great of you would elaborate on the entire procedure, perhaps a more formal write-up. So far I have several bleeding cuts on my left hand and wrist from simply trying to get a tool on the oil filter, just for practice. I still have questions such as:

    1. Do you need to remove one or more lower panels to catch the oil, remove the drain plugs, and catch the oil?

    2. Did you use ramps or jack stands?

    3. How did you minimize/avoid spilling oil when you removed the filter?

    4. Is the oil filter tool from Autozone sold specifically for Toyota filters?

    Thanks in advance.

    Tom

    Since Brad may not be around any longer, I will comment about this issue, once again.

    I have 4 different types of oil filter wrenches and yes, the one mentioned by Brad is among them. I found that even this type is a real pain to use. I continue to stand by my choice, the K&N oil filter, not only because it has a built-in (welded) nut on its top (making it very easy to remove with a simple adjustable wrench), but because K&N makes an excellent filter (proven by quite a few users' oil analysis and bobistheoilguy) for about $10.

    1. Do you need to remove one or more lower panels to catch the oil, remove the drain plugs, and catch the oil?

    No, I remove the rear screws so that I can bow the panel forward and then reach up (right of center when facing forward) to get at the oil filter. I found out exactly where it is by looking at some RX330 pics I found by doing a Google search.

    2. Did you use ramps or jack stands?

    Rhino ramps at Walmart ($30): These are very light and incredibly strong (I have the 12,000 lb versions).

    3. How did you minimize/avoid spilling oil when you removed the filter?

    I use two oil pans, one for draining the oil and the other for catching oil filter oil. It is very tough to not spill any, however. In fact, despite my extensive cleanup, a typically see a drop or two for a few days afterward.

    4. Get the K&N oil filter; it'll make removal MUCH easier. I've done it many, many times now.

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