IS400

Hello how is going i have the same problem and i had my mounts replace BOTH tranny and motor i still have a the heavy vibrations. SO its not that i wouldnt waste your time on that. Cause if you notice that the vibration on begins when the car idle is below a certain level. take a close look at that. Cause min start to virbate at red lights when i the speed is all the way down and the idle level gets low. As long as the car ilde is a little high the vibration completely stops. right now the only problem i have with my car is that it JERKS when you shift from D R N L and also the Gear Shifter gets jammed ! You have a transmission problem. If it is doing that kind of vibration at idle and jerks getting in gear and the shifter is jamming I believe you have problems with the bands/clutches inside the tranny. I would be very nervous if I were you because I hear that these transmissions are VERY expensive to replace. Good luck! Check your fluid level when the car is hot and see if it is nice and bright and clear. If it is foamy or very brown you have got to get the transmission serviced asap.

The problem is most likely the upper control arm. It is a large part that is shaped like a wishbone and attaches in two places to the frame/unibody of the car. The best way to see it is to jack up the front of the car and look over the top of the tire and find the control arm as the largest part in there. It attaches in two places and those bushings on those two points wear out quickly on these cars. Lexus can replace them for a pretty penny or you can get replacement arms and do it yourself. The bushings are available seperately but are a major job to replace from what I read. I replaced mine with pieces from arnott industries in florida. They were perfect when first installed but after a little while I notice the noise is back on occasion. A lot better than they were before at least. I agree about the pads clacking sometimes, so make sure you get your little springs that go on the pads put back on properly to keep them located, each time someone does a brake job for you. Hope this helps! B)

My 1998 LS 400 problem is related but different. The sunroof is jammed in the tilt open position. I simply want to get the top down so that I have a weathertight cabin; I don't care if the top operates. Any advice appreciated. Thanks I do not know if this will help, but the manual shows how you use a tool in your kit for the car that allows you to manually close the sunroof. I surmise this is in case of such a problem as you have. Whether it will work when the roof is in the tilt position I do not know. There is a panel you take off up there on the side nearest the bonnet/hood and it exposes a set of gears with a notched recess for the cranking tool. Cheers! (hommage to the scottish bloke that started the post) :)

Is it just me, or does anyone else want to ride shotgun with IS400 merely as an observer? Awwwww! I love you guys too! Have a great week! :)

The logic may be that when bleeding brakes the master cylinder plunger is stroking longer than it normally does and further breaks down old seals/boots etc. by pushing the 'high water mark' of sludge or corroded shaft sections into the rubber bits. Same danger when replacing brake pads, moving the piston back into the housing seal poses a risk of damage if you have lots of built up and rust. With a modern vacuum brake system the day to day stroke on a brake pedal is pretty short. When I bleed brakes I put it to the floor and let it come all the way back up, but I have always enjoyed long strokes anyhow! :P

Dec 13 2007, 04:43 PM Post #1 Club Member Group: Regular Member Posts: 87 Joined: 13-November 07 From: Michigan Member No.: 57,639 Car Model:Big one Location:Earth Warn: (0%) I just finished a major repair job on my 1990 LS400. Took 3 days of wrenching and two days in between resting. As a 120lb girl working by herself, I don't think I did too bad. The results are amazing. 1. Got Timingbelt/waterpump kit from CA via E-bay. All Japanese parts and lots of extra stuff like s.plug seals etc. ($200). 2. Lower ball joints and tie rod ends for the front. Wish I had not done them, the old ones were pristine and were tight, but once that pickel fork cuts the seals, not much you can do but replace them. Got the parts off e-bay as suggested by a site member here and it was a nightmare. Three attempts and I still had to settle for a mismatched set of tie rod ends. ($120 for all four parts + my own grease and tie wrap to make the driver's side tie rod work until I can get a spec part to replace it.) Watch out for Miami suppliers. 3. Upper control arms (pair) from Arnott Industries. Beautiful pieces. My god they are sweet looking. ($199 pair) Drop the spindle to the floor using a jack and the spring gets out of the way to unbolt the old ones and put in the new. Jack it back up in place to re attach the strut and you are done. 4. Replaced the PS control valve as a cross referenced tercel part and cleaned out the screen of the servo by the rack again. ($80 + fluid) 5. Two bags of cotton rags to sop up all the oil and fluids that seeped by the drivers side valve cover where the last mechanic from lexus failed to tighten either the bolt on the valve cover at the corner or the distributor housing at the bottom corner. (That is where I had been losing a quart of oil an year and could not find the cause.) The timing belt had been slinging it everywhere! Used nearly a whole can of degreaser just cleaning plastic covers and crevices around the timing system and crank! Analysis: The engine had been serviced by someone regularly. That someone, probably a mechanic and not the owner, did not seem to think of failing to torque things that are designed to keep fluids and dirt from migrating into the engine. My distributor housing, with the cam sensors (look like little silver coins) were covered with a 1/16th of an inch of crud. All from the housings not being tightened or gaskets jammed on and showing gaps and warped edges. Lots of places for things to invade the timing belt cavity all day long in what ever weather or debris the car encountered. The radiator had pounds of stuff between the condensor and radiator. Surprised the car cooled itself at all. The throttle linkage had about 1/2 inch of play before the pedal moved the throttle plate. Adjusted and now the car takes off smartly from a stop. Speaking of which, the car is SMOOTH running again. That timing belt had stretched a lot. The new one is much thicker in construction and looks like it is either a factory redesign or the maintenance on my car had been fudged. The timing belt looked old and had cracks everywhere. One crack was 9/10ths the way across the non toothed face of the belt and when I twisted it I heard fibres breaking. I was probably a few weeks away from being stranded. The seal around the thermostat was torn and needed to be replaced. It looked like the person that installed it was in a hurry and just jammed it on and threw it in there no matter how it was oriented. The steam hole with the little pebble sized flapper was not pointing straight up like it should either. Replaced both pieces along with the o-ring for the housing ($40) at the local Lexus Dealer. Ouch! Glad I was not forced to buy the other parts there! The car runs smooth now and does not clank or bang over expansion joints or irregularities. Now though, those rear carrier bushings are obvious and the next thing on my list. BTW the best method I found to keep the engine from turning while removing the harmonic balancer when doing the timing belt, is quite simple and a tool we all have at home. Get under the car, look for the access panel where the trans meets the engine and take off the two bolts and look for the round holes (big) in the flywheel. Take the largest Allen Wrench you have (90 degree style with a short and a long end, not the T handle ones) and slip the short end of the wrench inside one of the large openings. Slowly turn the engine over with your breaker bar and you will feel sudden resistance in about a quarter turn or less. Now you can take off that 180 foot pound bolt with no problem. I had to get on the fender and use my legs since i am a girl, but it is the perfect tool to make it a one person job. Just remember to take it out before you start your engine! Eeek! Alert: My 1990 did not have obvious timing marks for the cams. I marked the cams with a sharpie and eyeballed a fixed point behind them on the sparkplug wire holder. Kind of like dead reckoning in the woods. See a tree on the heading, go to that tree, pick another tree on your heading, etc... Well I had set everything and had marked the crank and taken off the belt and was about to go to lunch and thought I really can't see any marks to interpret on the cam gears, so i made my dead reckoning marks and ran the new belt around to see how the stiff new one was going to be getting in place and --whizz, the passenger side cam gear rotated on its own about a 1/3 of a turn in a split second. My heart jumped and I thought oh no, I lost my timing! I took a look and turned the gear back to the mark and realized it was under compression or at the top of its stroke or something. I felt a good amount of resistance until I got it back on mark and it rested there and did not move again. I have a feeling if I had not made that mark I would have had to guess or at least not felt confident I had done the job right when I turned the key to start it up the first time. Mark your stuff as soon as you get the crank at top dead center. Do not mess around with knowing where you started from because weird things can happen when you least expect it. Last FYI. The tutorials do not list the huge bolt running perpendicular in plane to all the other bolts. It runs through the housing under the ac compressor and needs to be removed to take out the water pump. When your engine is covered in crude you cannot see the seams where the metal meets. Look at your new part and use it as a guide. When you remove the old pump don't use a chisel like the tutorial says, there is a tab on the pump in the passenger side quadrant that lexus designed into the part to make it easy to pry off. I just used that same allen wrench like I would open a beer bottle. A flick of the wrist and the seal is broken and you can pull the old pump off a little at a time until it slides free. Happy Holidays everyone! Update: I just posted this in July 2008 after some of the members recommended it would be a good tutorial. Make sure to follow all the recommened precautions your tools list and take your time! Ask questions on the board if you are stuck or not sure. A torn down engine with a screw up is not what you want to have flat bedded to lexus when you make a catastrophic mistake. Good luck and get ready for in incredible feeling of satisfaction when you get it done!

Thanks! I will get right on that one. Nice hearing you felt as gross dealing with that foam as I did! That stuff was knarly.

Take a look at mine. With just a couple of washer width spacers for the fronts, IS300 wheels work perfectly and keep the car 100% Lexus.

I had similar problems with mine. An old fashioned locksmith shop that is owned by a guy in his late 70s gave me some advice. He said that the lock itself sometimes is the problem. Meaning the ignition switch. He sold me a little tube of graphite powder and advised me to put the smallest amount into the ignition slot in the spring and the fall to keep it regularly lubricated. He could not sell me a new key, but the ones I have now work fine in the ignition. Those ignition tumblers will eventually wear the key away as you have found unless it is regularly maintained. Just my two cents! ;)

I forgot to mention that when I changed my timing belt and water pump last year I pulled tons of road sand and leaves out of the space between the radiator and ac condensor. For those of you not versed in ac parts, the condensor looks like a small radiator itself. Maybe a lot of these older cars are losing their cooling efficiency due to obstructed airflow more than anything. 10-15 years of road debris added up to a nearly half blocked off condensor on my car. If you look down between them with a flashlight you might think you are clear, but when you take the radiator out you will find a dark mash of broken down plant debris and road dirt caked into all the fins. Maybe a long dowel would be good to probe down there and see what you feel and what comes out caked on it when it is pulled out. Just an idea so you can check before removing the radiator.

I can't get away with driving naked due to being a woman, but I am having a lot of fun with the ac blowing full blast on my chest. These puppies get plenty hot. The most fun is to close the airflow to all other vents and chill 'em down til they feel numb! What I want is sport type wheels the IS and new F cars get. Wheels are expensive and its such a shame to love everything about the grandpa lexus sedans except the wheels.

I am a girl, but no harm done. Everyone in the Detriot suburbs knows how the cars are built here. They get them for nearly half off with employee discounts and such so they drive them a year a two and trade them in for another. My friend, the owner of a liquor store that sits next to a Chrysler plant says he has a line in the morning and at plant breaks for pints of booze. They pour them in their big gulp cups and walk into work. No one messes with auto workers here, they run the whole deal with the money they pump into the local economy. Sad yes. Make sure your car was assembled somewhere other than Michigan if you have to buy domestic.

Good job! Congrats for seeing the job through to the end. Second guessing yourself and letting someone else finish the job is the easy way out. It might be usefull to post this as a Tutorial in the http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showforum=14 section. If anyone wants to post it for me as a tutorial it would be fine on my end. Is it easy to do (post a tutorial)? Your kind words are greatly appreciated guys. Thanks for taking the time out of your weekend to let me know you found that my repair write up was done well! Have a good one! :) IS, just click on the link above, then click on "New Topic" then copy and paste the same posting. Should be "easy peasy". Btw, I enjoyed my sandwich and beer so much I just might have another. Just posted it! Thanks! I'm glad you liked my warning about the long write up. Always glad to help! ;) Going to put my pics back up on my profile. Feeling good after getting cool in my Lex finally!

Reposted after members suggested it should go in tutorials section. Not written as a tutorial but just what I went through and what I learned getting the ac to work. Original Post starts below :) Very long post. Grab a sandwich and a beer before starting. Situation: Bought car in winter and did not check ac. My bad. Fast forward to a hot spring day and no air when activated. Damn! Lexus told me that they could convert it over but it would be a couple thousand because all the R-12 cars leak some and with -134a a leak is not tolerable. It got really hot and I looked online and bought a retro kit and installed/filled the system. Did not vacuum it out, did not flush. I know. I know. Had AC for halfway through the fill and then it went warm again. Online said system is leaking bad and I will have to get it overhauled. Two weeks later I get my Miata and say Bye Bye to summer lexus driving. Anyway after investigating all the options and even buying a flush and seal kit from lexus recently (another post) and getting a $1,000 quote to install, I wandered into target and wal mart to look to see if anything had changed in the retrofit market. 1. Bought some 134a from target that neutalizes the acid that builds up in r12 systems. Thought what the hell. (4 bucks a can.) 2. Bought some 134a called arctic air that has a synthetic oil that is compatible with r-12 and 134a. (8 bucks, big tall can with a clear fill hose.) 3. Bought an ac fill hose with a gauge and pistol grip at walmart. (12 bucks and fits all standard 134a cans.) Sat around with the stuff for two weeks wondering how wasteful it would be to just dump in the system like before. Decided to do some research and got on here and some other sites to get an auto air conditioning education. I learned that the system HAS to be vacuumed to remove moisture so that the physics can work and that even the smallest repair to the system means changing out the filter dryer and accumulator (orifice tube) inside the dash near the evaporator. The filter dryer gets contaminated with moisture from an open system (big leak and/or repair) and the accumulator gets clogged with debris from a leak or a repair job. After noticing a sale on vacuum pumps at Harbor Freight ($9) I bought one. It is the size of my purse and very light. Has all the fittings to work with any home air compressor. (Illegal to vent system I know. Yada Yada.) My roof is getting replaced so one night I snagged the pancake compressor they left in my basement and ran it out to the car. Damn thing needed an air tool fitting (not included) to get the hose to mate with the vacuum pump. Found their nail gun and unscrewed the fitting off the base to make the connection I needed. Bad girl, I know! (replaced it after I was done) Clipped the old hose system I had from when I first filled the car in error (no gauge, just the quick release to the car and the scew on fitting that mates with the pump. As I clipped it to the car it started to discharge some vapor! I assumed it was the old charge I had made and walked away from the car until it stopped hissing. I went back online and found that my blinking ac light was that the compressor was not connected or was seized. I disconnected the ac compressor (near the pulley toward the fender) and cleaned the electrical connectors (major *BLEEP* of a job! Tight space) applied dielectric grease and snapped it back together. Started car and still got a flashing light. The online advice was that with no charge it will not engage the pulley due to wanting to protect the compressor. Feeling like this was going no where I almost gave up and put everything away. Instead I flipped the switch and connected the vacuum pump to the air compressor and went inside to wait. The manual to the pump said wait ten minutes to build vacuum and then 20 minutes more to remove watervapor/debris. Called my boyfriend and checked my e-mail. Looked at the car a couple of times and felt airflow under the pump. No fluid or moisture though. Little compressor only got up to 50lbs and it is rated at 4 scfm or something I think. Turned off compressor and listened while the vacuum pump slowed. Decided to disconnect at firewall before it stopped completely to preserve the vacuum I'd built and then attached the big artic air bottle since it had the synthetic oil charge. Crossed my fingers and started car and pressed ac button. Attached can (kind of like fix a flat) and had to hold it steady and upright to keep it from leaking as the fluid filled. I stopped halfway through and checked the ac light. It was solid green! Kept filling until can was empty and then checked vents for cool air. A little cool but more like a fan running over wet skin. Turned car off and got out pistol grip gauge and installed a can of the acid kill 134a from target. Attached and started car. Pressed trigger and checked pressure by releasing. Barely read on the gauge. Bad feeling already! Damn it! Tried it again and was tempted to turn it upside down but the online advice was to keep it upright to avoid 'slugging' the compressor with a shot of liquid refrigerant. The whole time I kept eyeballing the compressor to make sure it was still turning and that it was not making death rattle noises or anything similar. Pretty soon the gauge started to rise as I kept charging and checking and made it into the lower band of the charged area on the gauge. I also noticed that the pressure fluctuated quite a bit as the compressor worked and the the other parts of the system did their thing. The trick is to wait for the system to settle and get a reading from that point. The second can was empty when the needle was in the middle of the charged area. I remembered that the online guys said that 134a is not as cold as r12 in r12 cars and to make sure to have a full 134a charge to compensate. Attached the last can from target and put half of it in to get the gauge to the top of the full charge section and not into the yellow over charge area. Got in the car and it was ice cold! I sat in there and wondered, great, but how long will it last? Tossed the gauge with the half filled can in the trunk and packed it in for the day. Next day to work I did not run ac. I measured it at work and no loss on the gauge! Drove it home with the ac on and left it overnight without checking it. Drove it to work the next day and checked the gauge, no change! It has been two weeks now and it still cools the car in 95 degree temps after sitting in the sun heat soaked and does not load up, make noise or anything! I do not know what the original state of the system was and what problems there are that I do not know about, but it would be advisable for those with blinking ac lights to clean that electrical connector to the compressor and vacuum the system before adding any refrigerant, like I did. In the future I plan on replacing the filter dryer and orifice tube but right now I am happy to get air that is at least 75% of what factory perfect would give me. Sorry again for the long post, but those of you that spend sleepless nights trying to decide to pull the trigger or not on a thousand dollar ac repair, will hopefully appreciate all the details I've included. I forgot to mention that when I changed my timing belt and water pump last year I pulled tons of road sand and leaves out of the space between the radiator and ac condensor. For those of you not versed in ac parts, the condensor looks like a small radiator itself. Maybe a lot of these older cars are losing their cooling efficiency due to obstructed airflow more than anything. 10-15 years of road debris added up to a nearly half blocked off condensor on my car. If you look down between them with a flashlight you might think you are clear, but when you take the radiator out you will find a dark mash of broken down plant debris and road dirt caked into all the fins. Maybe a long dowel would be good to probe down there and see what you feel and what comes out caked on it when it is pulled out. Just an idea so you can check before removing the radiator.

Good job! Congrats for seeing the job through to the end. Second guessing yourself and letting someone else finish the job is the easy way out. It might be usefull to post this as a Tutorial in the http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showforum=14 section. If anyone wants to post it for me as a tutorial it would be fine on my end. Is it easy to do (post a tutorial)? Your kind words are greatly appreciated guys. Thanks for taking the time out of your weekend to let me know you found that my repair write up was done well! Have a good one! :)

Very long post. Grab a sandwich and a beer before starting. :P Situation: Bought car in winter and did not check ac. My bad. Fast forward to a hot spring day and no air when activated. Damn! Lexus told me that they could convert it over but it would be a couple thousand because all the R-12 cars leak some and with -134a a leak is not tolerable. It got really hot and I looked online and bought a retro kit and installed/filled the system. Did not vacuum it out, did not flush. I know. I know. Had AC for halfway through the fill and then it went warm again. Online said system is leaking bad and I will have to get it overhauled. Two weeks later I get my Miata and say Bye Bye to summer lexus driving. A lot of people here in Michigan try to run over Miatas so I was getting to the point that I was looking forward to the relative safety of the Lexus those 8-9 months of the year. You should see the scratches on my cars from locals that are autoworkers keying anything that is not american made. Knuckle draggers and build cars drunk and high. (They brag about it.) Anyway after investigating all the options and even buying a flush and seal kit from lexus recently (another post) and getting a $1,000 quote to install, I wandered into target and wal mart to look to see if anything had changed in the retrofit market. 1. Bought some 134a from target that neutalizes the acid that builds up in r12 systems. Thought what the hell. (4 bucks a can.) 2. Bought some 134a called arctic air that has a synthetic oil that is compatible with r-12 and 134a. (8 bucks, big tall can with a clear fill hose.) 3. Bought an ac fill hose with a gauge and pistol grip at walmart. (12 bucks and fits all standard 134a cans.) Sat around with the stuff for two weeks wondering how wasteful it would be to just dump in the system like before. Decided to do some research and got on here and some other sites to get an auto air conditioning education. I learned that the system HAS to be vacuumed to remove moisture so that the physics of heat transfer can work and that even the smallest repair to the system means changing out the filter dryer and accumulator (orifice tube) inside the dash near the evaporator. The filter dryer gets contaminated with moisture from an open system (big leak and/or repair) and the accumulator gets clogged with debris from a leak or a repair job. After noticing a sale on vacuum pumps at Harbor Freight ($9) I bought one. It is the size of my purse and very light. Has all the fittings to work with any home air compressor. (Illegal to vent system I know. Yada Yada.) My roof is getting replaced so one night I snagged the pancake compressor they left in my basement and ran it out to the car. Damn thing needed an air tool fitting (not included) to get the hose to mate with the vacuum pump. Found their nail gun and unscrewed the fitting off the base to make the connection I needed. Bad girl, I know! (replaced it after I was done) Clipped the old hose system I had from when I first filled the car in error (no gauge, just the quick release to the car and the scew on fitting that mates with the pump. As I clipped it to the car it started to discharge some vapor! I assumed it was the old charge I had made and walked away from the car until it stopped hissing. I went back online and found that my blinking ac light was that the compressor was not connected or was seized. I disconnected the ac compressor (near the pulley toward the fender) and cleaned the electrical connectors (major *BLEEP* of a job! Tight space) applied dielectric grease and snapped it back together. Started car and still got a flashing light. The online advice was that with no charge it will not engage the pulley due to wanting to protect the compressor. Feeling like this was going no where I almost gave up and put everything away. Instead I flipped the switch and connected the vacuum pump to the air compressor and went inside to wait. The manual to the pump said wait ten minutes to build vacuum and then 20 minutes more to remove watervapor/debris. Called my boyfriend and checked my e-mail. Looked at the car a couple of times and felt airflow under the pump. No fluid or moisture though. Little compressor only got up to 50lbs and it is rated at 4 scfm or something I think. Turned off compressor and listened while the vacuum pump slowed. Decided to disconnect at firewall before it stopped completely to preserve the vacuum I'd built and then attached the big artic air bottle since it had the synthetic oil charge. Crossed my fingers and started car and pressed ac button. Attached can (kind of like fix a flat) and had to hold it steady and upright to keep it from leaking as the fluid filled. I stopped halfway through and checked the ac light. It was solid green! Kept filling until can was empty and then checked vents for cool air. A little cool but more like a fan running over wet skin. Turned car off and got out pistol grip gauge and installed a can of the acid kill 134a from target. Attached and started car. Pressed trigger and checked pressure by releasing. Barely read on the gauge. Bad feeling already! Damn it! Tried it again and was tempted to turn it upside down but the online advice was to keep it upright to avoid 'slugging' the compressor with a shot of liquid refrigerant. The whole time I kept eyeballing the compressor to make sure it was still turning and that it was not making death rattle noises or anything similar. Pretty soon the gauge started to rise as I kept charging and checking and made it into the lower band of the charged area on the gauge. I also noticed that the pressure fluctuated quite a bit as the compressor worked and the the other parts of the system did their thing. The trick is to wait for the system to settle and get a reading from that point. The second can was empty when the needle was in the middle of the charged area. I remembered that the online guys said that 134a is not as cold as r12 in r12 cars and to make sure to have a full 134a charge to compensate. Attached the last can from target and put half of it in to get the gauge to the top of the full charge section and not into the yellow over charge area. Got in the car and it was ice cold! I sat in there and wondered, great, but how long will it last? Tossed the gauge with the half filled can in the trunk and packed it in for the day. Next day to work I did not run ac. I measured it at work and no loss on the gauge! Drove it home with the ac on and left it overnight without checking it. Drove it to work the next day and checked the gauge, no change! It has been two weeks now and it still cools the car in 95 degree temps after sitting in the sun heat soaked and does not load up, make noise or anything! I do not know what the original state of the system was and what problems there are that I do not know about, but it would be advisable for those with blinking ac lights to clean that electrical connector to the compressor and vacuum the system before adding any refrigerant, like I did. In the future I plan on replacing the filter dryer and orifice tube but right now I am happy to get air that is at least 75% of what factory perfect would give me. Sorry again for the long post, but those of you that spend sleepless nights trying to decide to pull the trigger or not on a thousand dollar ac repair, will hopefully appreciate all the details I've included.

The ac compressor cycles on and off so that could be the rpm fluctuation but if tuned right it should not be really anything more than a slight movement of the tach needle. Check your battery. When you press on the gas the alternator may be giving you the voltage needed to put the fan at full speed and it is slow at idle because of battery output (low). Just my two cents. (Autozone will check your battery for free if you are intending to buy a new one from them.) ;)

Just found this post and had to laugh at the indignation in RFeldes response to someone finding a way to get R-12. RFeldes, please be advised that a year of space shuttle launches releases more CFC than all the old style hairspray and r-12 freon that was released over the last century combined. The r-12/134a switch over benifited someone substantially, but not the enviroment. Lobby the military industrial complex if you really want to effect positive climate change, otherwise leave we blue collars to our budget back yard fixes. I personally go to stealership only when I need a good parts price laugh or some free snacks. :D

Thanks! Blonde hair is showing on this one! OOOps! :P

Hello all, A member mentioned in a thread that KIK Parts out of California had a great deal on Ac parts for LS400's. I cannot find them and the only KIK I find is a company that makes totally different products. The deal they sold him/her in the thread was 265 for a reman compressor with pag oil and a new receiver dryer (shipping included). Any clues as to how to contact them would be greatly appreciated.

Toyota vehicles don't have rubber seals. They are polyurethane. I would just leave them. We didn't change them on my LS or the Toyota Pickup and they both have worked fine for quite a while. Thanks for the info to get them to accept the return! Going to the dealership to return the kit today after work.

So should I just return it to dealer? They said I needed it since 134a eats the r-12 rubber seals and the silicone seals are required. I have not opened the package yet BTW.

I have Gen 1 IS wheels on my Gen 1 LS400 and everyone thinks they are stock for my car! Then there are the non lexus types that think I drive a Maurader! Those wheels are sick though and they are unique. Don't get chrome. That is just a little too flashy and as a girl I think chrome looks like you are trying too hard. Just my opinion tho. :P