SRVCM

Im not quite following you but ill try to help. The Tachometer,s job is to register the RPM's of the engine which is done electronically as there is no cable connected to the instrument cluster. The tach has nothing to do with speed. The Spedometer guage indicates speed, combined with the tach give speed as well as engine rpm, give the indications of your engine's workload and what its taking for your vehicle to move. The odometer records distance travelled wheter its miles or kilometers. If your odometer is not working there may be a problem with the instrument cluster. Before you remove anything !!! see if you can change the view of the odometer by pressing the odometer/trip button. If you can change between odometer, trip1 and trip two, there is nothing wrong with that part and you odometer is still not recording your miles/km's travelled the problem will be with either your sensor on the tranny or the instrument cluster. Also check to see if the trip is recording the miles/km's travelled. If the trip is and the odometer isint it wont be the tranny sensor and will be a problem with the instrument cluster. If neither are working it may be the instrument cluster and/or the tranny sensor. troubleshoot to fine the defective component and replace/repair as necessary. Remove the black plastic bezel housing and check the connector on the right side of the bezel to see if its connected. This connectoris part of the instrument cluster wire harness and you will see it is located at the right bottom corner of the instrument cluster prior to removal. That connector controls the trip reset to allow you to change between the trip 1 and 2 and odometer views. If it is connected further troubleshooting may be needed. Depending on your level of expertise with componet removel you may want to remove the instrument cluster or have somone else to check the cable between the daughterboards. If you take the instrument cluster out of the dash (Look for guide in forum) there are two boards. The plastic cover on the back of the instrument cluster comes off with removing seven screws. once removed you see a daughterboard. holding the cluster looking at the rear of the cluster you will see a cable connector on the daughterboard that is at the bottom left. That cable provides the signals for the odometer, make sure the cable is seated properly, if it is there is a problem with the daughterboard and you may have to seek professional help. Good luck if you need more assistance let me know.

I concur with DCfish also while youre at it check the resistance of the wires on the 3 pin plug against each other and end to end. a short is basically no resistance between a set of wires, checking the resistance will at least eliminate a possible cause of the blown fuse. Also make sure you are using the correct fuse type. A lower fuse may blow prematurely that the recommended fuse for the circuit.

Well now the mechanic is saying its a ignition problem, not all the coils are getting current, but i dont believe him anymore, even in past i had trouble with him, So for i paid $1000.00 for timing belt change he is asking another $480.00 for diagnose and the plugs he changed. If i pay him 480 then he said he will start diagnosing the ignition problem, since its not just the coils. The car stoped on Sunday, after towing to his place i cranked it it started but when u give gas it stoped. I really appericiate your help. Thanks I would have it towed to another shop for diagnosis. It appears that their may have been a problem with the original work, which if he is any type of mechanic should offer some type of warranty on his work or find a new job. Tow it to the other shop and let them figure out what the problem is to get a second opinion. The towing is a hellofa lot less that the work. Then if you feel like they have figured it out let them repair the vehicle and request the difference back from the original mechanic. If he wont return partial funds I would never use him or recommend him again because that would hurt more than taking him to court for the money.

Wow!!! Now thats a scratch!!! anyway I had a scratch like that on my truck (not a lexus of course) My buddy owns a airbrush shop and I had him fix it with touch up paint and it came out PERFECT!!! He basically masked off the area scuffed it up, sanded it and sprayed the touch up paint using an airbrush. If you know anyone that knows anyone that can airbrush they may be albe to assist you without too much trouble and make it look great. Using touch up paint with the applicator sucks IMHO, if you can spray it on it will last much longer!!!!!

Well I can tell you its not the spedometer cable as the instrument cluster is electronic and there is no spedometer cable attached to the back of the cluster. I know first hand as I have taken my cluster out from my 94 es300 several times

The dash cluster in the pictures is a dash cluster for a 1992-1997 lexus ES300. I have two of the same dash clusters. Tthe last 3 number (273) are different for each cluster. Mine it 062 which may mean it is 062 of how many they made that year.

Hi all, I have cluster parts for sale basically everything except a fuel guage (I put in my old cluster). If you have a request or need anything let me know at srvcm@yahoo.com.

There is no screw behind the needle for making adjustments. First, fill your gas tank to full so you know where the gauge needle should be sitting when it is reset. Then, carefully remove the needle from the gauge and place it back on so that it is indicating a full tank. Thanks, I tried that and found my fuel guage was broken and will not allow it to read full. So I purchased a whole new instrument cluster at my local junk yard($30.00) and will install it friday. I check the guage by following the repair guide offered at the beginning of the forum. It states to check for continunity between three screws at the back of the fuel guage and I found between pins B and C there is no continunity :cries: so ill remove the fuel guage from the cluster i purchased and put it in mine. I checked the guage and it reads correctly according the the repair manual. Luxucan I also did my dash like yours and I LUV it!! Anyone need a cluster parts??? email me at srvcm@yahoo.com

Set the needles back at zero than hold it up to see where they fall, move them back and forth until they are at zero when the cluster is standing up. No need to mess with the temp or gas needles. Ok, I know my post my be a little old in regards to the discussion but I have a question after reading all the "Fixes" 1)Can the needles be adjusted by some means i believe are identified as removing some cover behind the needle and adjusting some screw?? 2)The Fuel guage (Which is my reason for posting) can be adjusted how? A. moving it to the correct position(Which I tried and doesnt work) B. Removing some conver behind the needle and adjusting manually with some sort of weight behind the cover? C. Placing solder on the back weight to rebalance? If someone can provide a more detailed instruction as to how to do the adjustment I would appreciate it very much!!! I am in the process of adjusting my needles after doing the Luxcan SMT led replacement to my needles and will keep all posted as to how my adjustment goes as well. srvcm

Im currently working on a fix for this problem as I installed LED's in the dash and after re- installing cluster the fuel guage is out of adjustment. I really dont think it is the signal coming from the fuel sending unit. I believe the problem may lie with the voltage at the guage. Ill be working on this for the next few days.

Possibly Vacume lock on the fuel rail. Check pressure on fuel rail inside engine compartment purge any air from the lines and insure fuel come out steadily. Home this helps too!!!

There are 3 things needed for a gasoline engine to run Fuel, Air and Spark. Now it appears for some reason one of these is missing. So you must begin a troubleshooting list. Im not excately sure what your problem is bacause you have not listed specifically what is wrong. Just saying it wont start really is not enough. It could be out of fuel or have a bad battery. So Ill list some t/s steps to follow. Assuming the ignition switch is working properly..... 1)Check battery to insure it is fully charged, alternator to insure it is charging and properly connected to battery positive wire. 2)Check to see if there is spark by pulling one of the spark plugs and grounding it while turning over the engine. In the event you turn the key and nothing happens check to see if the dash lights up. If it does check the fuse box to insure there are no blown fuses replace as nessary. If there is spark on the plug you checked pull all the plugs and check each one for spark and replace as necessary. Go back to checking for spark by attempting to start engine. In the event the engine does not turn over there are few things to check starting with the starter and the starter solenoid. Locate the starter. On top or side of the starter is a solenoid with two wires(there may be one so check!!!) . Using the shade tree mechanic trick you can short those two terminals together just oh so briefly and SAFELY!!! if the starter turns then it may be a wire between the ground and the starter or the wire between the positive and the starter. BTW I dont recommend shorting the two terminal together I suggest verify continuity end to end from each end of the wires to where it terminates one on the battery and one on the chassis I believe. If you dont have an open or short and its still doesnt turn over, take the starter out of the vehicle and have it checked at a Auto parts store to determine if it is defective. If it is found good, place it back into the vehicle or replace it if it is bad. 3) Next up is the fuel system. having fuel in the vehicle is one thing, getting it to the engine is another. Check the fuel pump to insure it is pumping by disconnecting the tube going to the engine side of the pump and turn the key to on/start position insure you use a jar or some other means to catch the fuel SAFELY!!!!!. Check the Fuel filter to see if it is clogged, replace as necessary. Check the fuel pressure on the fuel rail to insure proper pressure is (may require fuel pressure guage) In the event the engine turn over and you have spark and fuel pressure start with the fuel injectors(Requires a NOID light) check to make sure voltage is applied to the fuel injectors by disconnecting the connector from one of the injectors(Check Every Connector!!!!) if there is voltage, the engine turns over when key is turned and pressure on the fuel rail and it still doesnt start there may be a faulty fuel injector (Highly unlikely, but it happens) Dont replace the fuel injectors until you have checked timing on the engine!!!! you will have to do it manually if the engine will not run. email me for details for timing issues. Somewhere along these steps you should find the cause of the no start situation In addition, if you have a transponder key there may be a programming issue which will prevent the vehicle from starting as well. Make sure this is not the case before troubleshooting!!!! or you will be wasting your time. Let me know how it turns out for you... Good Luck!!!!!!

WoW!!! I just caught up with the post and read he got another ticket for following a cop. DOOOOOD!!!!!! you are very lucky u didnt get arrested!!!!!!!! (Again arg!!!!:chairshot:) This is what I recommend you can do what you want but I recommend that you do not take this one to court because the DA is going to check past driving history and see that you were cut a break on an 86MPH ticket and now you were following a cop at 30+ over the limit AND got anothe break You would be lucky to keep your drivers license!!!!!! The only thing I can suggest to you is, When you feel like you want to go faster than the posted speed limit......... DONT!!!!!!

I read the post regarding getting a speeding ticket and have a few questions. First Were you going 86?? if you were NOT travelling 86 then you may have something to work with in court, Let me explain. All passenger vehicles come with spedometers that are not calibrated (their may be some exceptions of course). That means your spedometer may be off as much as plus or minus 10mph and some are off even more. This is a result of vehicle tire combinations that may increse your speed with no visual results on your spedometer hence the reason I asked the question of wether or not you were actually going 86. Check the recommended tire for your particular vehicle to insure it meet DOT requirements. If it did at the time of the ticket and you were not speeding then you may have a defense. If it did not then you may want to stay out of court. Now.... If you were not going 86MPH you may have a defense in court for defective equipment meaning your spedometer if off because of the tires and you can go to court with proof that it was by getting your vehicle checked by a certified mechanic who verifies what your tire combination and speed reading are and how much it may be off. BE ADVISED!!! if you do this and take it to court, the court may use the 86MPH reading and subtract the difference from your ticket!!!! Now....if you were going 86MPH my suggestion is attempt to go to traffic school which will reduce the fine amount. It will not reduce the points(Kentucky) I dont know for your state. Most states will allow traffic school in lieu of a lesser fine if you have'nt had any prior tickets in the past year so check your state for the laws. Going to court to pay a Lawyer to get you out of something that you did for whatever reason is not recommended for several reasons. First, you may get a reduced fine but you still have to pay the lawyer so add that to the possible reduction in fine and I bet it will still be higher that the ticket!!! Secondly even if a lawyer gets you a reduced fine, any speed over 10MPH is still 3 points off your license (Kentucky) check your state for traffic laws for your situation. Thirdly, if you make a mistake own up to it and do the right thing and take responsibility for your actions. You wonder how I know all this? I am a police officer and have been to court numerous time in the past nine years to testify and I see Lawers are ineffective in speeding offenses, the offender usually ends up with a reduced fine but still has to pay the lawyer. In your particular case the officer did you a favor by not arresting you for Reckless Driving(IF you were travelling at 86MPH) If you were not you may consider defective equipment as a defense for your speeding. Good Luck!!!!!!

Well, I fugured the problem out. The solenoids require 12V to operate which it turned out the battery and alternator were intermittant which resulted in the transmission working erraticly. When I corrected the battery issue the prblem went away. It shifts perfectly now. Anyone with similar problems might want to check this out to see if that is the case.

Hi, I read your post regarding the tranny problems and was wondering if you have any information on the solenoids? I believe I have a faulty solenoid that wont allow me to shift out of first until 5500rpm and sometimes I just have to derev it for it to shift. you can email me at srvcm@yahoo.com with details if you dont mind.

Hi, I recently purchased a 1994 ES300 and it had a noticable "Whine" Originally I thought it was the transmissing, and later located the whine was coming from the power steering pump. This is what I did to check it 1)Start vehicle 2)with vehicle running and in park move steering wheel from left to right. 3)If the whine gets louder it may be your power steering pump, or rack. 4)further isolate it by having a friend turn the wheel while you listen to the left side of engine, then right side. If the noise is louder on the left it may possibly be the p/s pump or rack. if it is coming from the right it may be your tranny. Hope this helps. BTW Im changing my p/s pump tomorrow at the craft shop. let me know if you want some pics :D

Hello all, this is my first post on LOC. Im fairly new to Lexus vehicles as I recently purchased a 1994 lexus ES300 W170K miles with very good condition paint for $2000.00. It was sold for such a cheap price because the tach and spedo needles do not work.