Rogerm

If the engine coolant temperture raises above "normal" the A/C compressor will be automatically disabled. Most commonly caused by a failed or intermittent radiator cooling fan. My temperature gage was about middle...and I think it is correct. The problem occured when I started the car cold. Then today twice, I used the car and the A/C came on. Today... I had put it in AUTO and did not hit off and then hit the A/C button. Monday I had been hitting the OFF button, then the A/C button and playing with the fan and temp settings. ???/ --------------- Followup : I had to have TWO computer boards Replaced !!! ( They tried the first, called me, then when I went to pick up the car they said they tested it and their was still a problem and had to do the second. o The instrument panel one which included A/C controls o The primary computer for the Lexus RX300. Hopes this helps someone.

I suppose there are many causes of this: But.. If you have also had other problems with your A/C controls that were intermitent.... Then You could have computer problems... I ended up having a Instrument cluster Computer Board Replaced. Then they replace the Main Computer Board. Hope that yours is simpler.

All: Does anyone know how difficult it is to set the Sound Volume on the Turn Signals? I suppose, several volume levels are set at once. Is this something that a small shop can do or does a dealer have to do it? Is it done through ODBC or what? Any idea on the time that it takes or the cost? Thanks

with all the views and few replies... you have to assume that most don't like it. your solution. ( sorry) I for one would be interested in a Navigation system like Magellan etc... but would not want ANYTHING CHANGED on the current system... just the adittional Nav added. It's cheap( $200 at Best Buy and easy to just add one of the portable units... ANOTHER APPROACH ??? Maybe you could find away to divert the {{video output}} of the Magellan, TomTom, etc ...to the Lexus screen. You would need to work with Lexus and Magellan on this solution... OR know alot about video. And use the Magellans controls from the Magellan unit mounted under on some cord under the dash that could be lifted up for easier "button" access. That way you would not have to remove the Magellan from the dash for theft reasons.

Solution: It what was called a "FLAT SPOT" on the starter. As the starter "parks" it does so at a "dead Point"... flat point.. When it is at one of these points it does not get electricty and will not turn over. As time goes on more and more of these points develope... It is kind of a Russian Roulet... as to whether the starter will kick in or not. One solution is a NEW STARTER about $ 200 as I recall. Installation is pretty easy... I had the shop do it. for 45 min. labor.

The Haynes Manual .... Shows you how to Remove the Rear Seats... Only FOUR BOLTS... You would not even have to remove the seats.... just take the bolts off and slide it back. If you can workout at the gym you are strong enough to do this.

All: Let me know what you think of this tip... It works for me. Whenever i do a search from the Lexus Owners Club ... top tool bar "Search" I get hundreds of hits. It just seems to bring up alot of totally unrelated topics. So I have turned to GOOGLE... I Google: "Lexus Owners Club: and then add the search topic that I am looking for. Am I missing something or doing something wrong with the Lexus Owners Club search??? Do others of you have this probem? Thanks Roger

Hi Roger! I don't remember details, but I usually fill the tank (+/-) and don't let it go below 1/2 or 3/8 at worst (good habit in FL after hurricane summers - in case one needs to evacuate, no time to wait to fill tanks and also sometimes gas stations can't serve gas). I do remember it took about ten 'fills' (i.e. to when the nozzle 'stopped') and then drains down to about 1/2 indicated. I once made the mistake of again 'super-filling' the tank and the gauge again registered wrongly - but for less of a time than previously. Now, I just go to 'nozzle-stop' then may add no more than a gallon. It probably would make sense to change the gauge/sensor, but I don't see why I need to spend the $ when I've found a way that suits... Since you are keeping track of your consumption and re-fills, why don't you just wait a couple of weeks and see what happens, being careful not to overfill in the meantime? Again: good luck! pauljcl Oops! sorry! didn't answer your question! My gauge would (at initial time of problem) show about 3/4 full when nozzle 'stopped', and I assumed that it was showing 1/4 low (i.e. less than actually in tank) all the way to refill at 3/8 indicated. The assumption was +/- correct given the gallons needed to refill. Then, little by little, the gauge 'moved up' on subsequenet re-fills, and after about five fills was a bit less than an 1/8 'off' (i.e indicated low). Paul: Hey thanks for all the help. I filled mine three times yesterday driving about a block between each filling: 1. 2 1/2 gal. This seemed to move the gage just a bit... but to where it was about 6 gal. in the tank that I estimated. 2. 5 gal. This brought it up about to between 1/2 and 3/4 registering on gage. Again about right by estimate. 3. 5 gal. This brought it up to almost full on the gage. Again about right by estimate. I did notice a "vent line" problem ... (It seemed to the pump filler cutoff that it was full even when I started pumping) when filling up as described in the link below: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=34015 I'm going to try his fix for the vent line problem... Thanks again ... I'll report back on this. Roger

You need to "depreasurize" the fuel system. Hayes manuals say ... one way is to remove power to the fuel pump and run the engine until it quits.

for an RX 300 the back seats have to come out to get at the fuel pump. These pictures were not from an RX300... ( But I could see the pump cover in one of the pictures.) Get the Hayes manuals and it shows and explains the whole procedure.

Make sure you "reset" the mpg ( hold the display button down) after you do your next refill ... If you don't it is a total mpg based on your total mileage ... since your last reset.

Update Saturday night: Two possible GAS levels: 1. My gage is now showing 3/8 ths of a tank ... about 6 gal. in the tank. Last time I drove it I had added gas, driven it ... the empty warning light was on... now it is off. See 2. below... 2. My calculations say it should be about 3 gal. in the tank. based on: I added 6 gal. to an empty tank I drove 51 miles at 17.1 mpg. = used 3 gal. 6 gal. - 3 gal. = 3 gal. So something is not right, but it is working somewhat ... and better than it had been. I have it scheduled to go into the shop on Monday. ( It's Sat nite. now) Based on what you just said about ... It fixing itself on multiple 1/2 refills... I'm not sure what to do. I'll call the shop Monday and see if he has already received the part... And I'll discuss your fix... see what he says. It may have just been some flook or bad gas or the splashy top off. It sure would be cheaper to just work it out like you did. But then again... it might be that the "sender" is about worn out... and will go soon. Tomorrow ( Sunday) I'll add about 1/4 tank... about 5 gal. in two stages 2 1/2 gal. each and watch the gage to see what it shows as I do this. If it shows about 5/8 ths of a tank... I'll lean toward holding off taking it in. I'll let you know how I make out tomorrow. {{ What do you think of the proposed approach??? }} {{ Do you remember what yours showed during those first refills ?}} Thanks Roger

All: I gased up and the nozzel did not cut off from vapors... it came close to overflowing when I shut it off manually. I had a half a tank i.e., about 9 gallon when I started. I added 9 gallons. This should have been a full tank.... and based on the above ... a full tank. The gage however only came up to 3/4 full. Then it slowly dropped as I drove... When it got to showing about 1/4 tank... it stayed about the same. I finally ran out of gas... Used a 2 1/2 gallon gas container... and it started right up. I talked to my shop and they said it is probably the gas tank float gage... which is also integrated with the fuel pump. Does any one have any other suggestions...as to problem or diagnosis Or Any online procedure for : a) replacing the tank gage etc. B) buying the part ... where and approx. cost. Thanks Roger

After doing quite a bit of research, I went with the recommendation of the Company that rebuilt my transmission. I purchased an: Equus - Innova -- 3140 Scan Tool CanOBD2&1 Kit™ http://www.iequus.com/product_info.php?pro...egory_id=1_10_7 I don't remember where I got it but a google search will turn it up. I paid about $ 235 which is half of what the Manuf. Sug. Retail Price is. I put it on my RX300 1999 and it turned up no codes. I have not run it in the "dynamic" mode yet ...where it is running as the car is moving. So far I'm happy... lots of features... and at the price of shop work; this is a bargain. Roger

Won't Start when I turn the key-- Good Battery-- [ RX300 1999] I am having a problem that is getting progressively worse... When I turn the key; sometimes it will start... sometimes not. It had been if I tried it ENOUGH TIMES ( turning the key) it would kick in and start. but this has been taking progressivey more tries... When it does not start, I don't hear that clicking sound like a bad starter... it just doesn't make any sound... ( that I can hear) I am beginning to think it might be: o Somekind of problem with the ignition switch itself ... I tried tuner cleaner thought. o Some kind of "relay" to the starter" o Some kind of starter solinoid problem. ps: The battery does not seem to be a problem... a) I've checked it's voltage. c) I've used a Remote Battery Starter ( Sears DieHard) c) I've replace the battery with another good one. Any ideas welcome !!! Thanks Roger

The owner of a very good transmission shop showed me the model that they used most often. I went to the manufacturers web site and selected a top of the line model. List for $ 400. I got it from Amazon or $225. I'll make this back on the first trip to the shop. EQUUS INNOVA 3140 CanOBD 2&1 http://www.autobarn.net/equus-3140-scanner.html I think is well pay for itself manytimes over. and make you popular with friends and neighbors. Roger

Maybe OEM's are treated ... maybe even probably. Even if you want to presume there 'may' be anti-microbal chemicals, you can buy the anti-microbal stuff in aerosol form (which will last for dozens of filter changes) on several web sites, or your local auto parts house, then go buy the filter material from home depot (which knocks the cost down to about $7 per 'serving' for us). But if you go down to the dealer for air filter replacement only? Get ready to pay way more than you have to. I checked my recently purchased RX300 1999 s Cabin Filter yesterday and it was almost totally blocked. All gunked up... I am surprised that anything could get through it... I used the vacum cleaner on it using the brush attachement. I could see through it when done. I agree that the OEM filter for the 1999 RX300 is not very fine filtering... not HEPA. The cleaning seemed to improve the operations of the entire Climate Control... Definitely more air flow. Then today I went to Lexus to confirm that mine was OEM. It was. and also found they wanted $38 for one and said I would be back. Went to Auto Zone and picked up a Bosch for $15. Bosch makes good products and I trust them for good design. i.e., good filtering and not resticting air flow even as the filter gets reasonably dirty. Bosch's has many more according pleats (at least twice as many) and hence more surface area. This explains why it can have a "finer" spacing on the fibers and still not restrict the air flow. [[think this is a concern if you are just cutting up any filter and putting it in the tray.]] The Bosch did not seal on the edges the same as OEM... I think I might use a little Scotch tape, but it may be over kill. Anyway I turned the FAN to HIGH on with both filters, and could not notice any appreciable air flow differences with my hand... but this is subjective. It is a two minute job once you've done it once. This is a followup on my yesterday's post... OK to WASH and HAND DRY OEM FILTER: After I installed the new Bosch cabin filter; and having previously vacumed and brushed the old OEM Filter. I thought I had nothing to loose so I would try and WASH the old OEM filter. I had been reluctent to try this until I read that it was a synthetic fiber and that others had washed it with no harm. [[i had thought the filter material when wet, might get soft and tear/stretch or some how loose it's wallful creases.]] Anyway it washed really well... I used Lysol spray cleaner and dishwashing soap. Also squished it repeatedly with my hands in the kitchen sink... this cleaned it... it took awhile for the soap to penetrate and get the dirt out. The vigorous squishing did not harm the fabric or the waffles at all. I then did a Warm water spray rinse. I did it first in the opposite direction of the air flow. Bottom Others have mentioned leaving it to "air dry" pvernight. I pressed it between parts of an old TOWEL three times. No harm to the filter material or wafflels. It was almost totally dry. (I could have used paper towels.) Had I not already installed the Bosch filter;I could have reinstalled the cleaned OEM filter immediately. I takes less time to check your air filter and clean it than changing a ceiling light bulb. It is Green and conserves materials. It saves you time and money to do it your self. and you get to be the judge of just how clean you want it to be. In my opinion, It is a waste of your time and gas to drive your car to the dealer to have this checked and done. On a routine maintenance service; I would not think that many dealers even check this if you do not remember and specify that it be done. (( I did hear that Jiffy Lube charges $ 65 to do this. Some cars it is a 1/2 hour job and they make no distinctions on car make for a cabin filter relacement.)) Roger ps: Based on what I saw, the Bosch cabin filter would filter out smaller particles than the Lexus OEM cabin filter and keep your cabin and air/conditioning fins cleaner than the OEM.

Maybe OEM's are treated ... maybe even probably. Even if you want to presume there 'may' be anti-microbal chemicals, you can buy the anti-microbal stuff in aerosol form (which will last for dozens of filter changes) on several web sites, or your local auto parts house, then go buy the filter material from home depot (which knocks the cost down to about $7 per 'serving' for us). But if you go down to the dealer for air filter replacement only? Get ready to pay way more than you have to. I checked my recently purchased RX300 1999 s Cabin Filter yesterday and it was almost totally blocked. All gunked up... I am surprised that anything could get through it... I used the vacum cleaner on it using the brush attachement. I could see through it when done. I agree that the OEM filter for the 1999 RX300 is not very fine filtering... not HEPA. The cleaning seemed to improve the operations of the entire Climate Control... Definitely more air flow. Then today I went to Lexus to confirm that mine was OEM. It was. and also found they wanted $38 for one and said I would be back. Went to Auto Zone and picked up a Bosch for $15. Bosch makes good products and I trust them for good design. i.e., good filtering and not resticting air flow even as the filter gets reasonably dirty. Bosch's has many more according pleats (at least twice as many) and hence more surface area. This explains why it can have a "finer" spacing on the fibers and still not restrict the air flow. [[think this is a concern if you are just cutting up any filter and putting it in the tray.]] The Bosch did not seal on the edges the same as OEM... I think I might use a little Scotch tape, but it may be over kill. Anyway I turned the FAN to HIGH on with both filters, and could not notice any appreciable air flow differences with my hand... but this is subjective. It is a two minute job once you've done it once.

Lock-Tite makes a several products. I am not talking about the permanent kind. They make one where you can remove the screws etc. ; but makes it so they don't work loose easily. Anyway, you might be able to work some of that on-to the rod. If someone has purchased a new one and still has the old one, OR we could get one from a parts yard. We could experiment on it. Somehow the rod is being held onto the visor. (screw, clip whatever) and we need to know how to remove the rod... May require a cut at somepoint in the fabric to access the holder.

It is good news...The Club and it's Contributers provides a really terrific Service to us all. The Lexus Owners Club contributers ... go to alot of work to find, know and type in valuable, useful information. But we owners need to take action..and do alot of followup work. I had to use the information and present it to the used car dealer in an honest, factual way along with my description of problems. It did take the reasonable action to get the independent Lexus Dealer's inspection before I bought it. It costs me $ 130. Also had to go out to Koons several times to get the problems documented and the service performed. I did purchase an extended drive train 2 year warranty; that I may not have done if I had not read the Forum. Although the work described here was covered under the Koons 60 day used car warranty. Koons also took care of a tire with a nail in it. ( I had to get it balanced on my own.) Koons is also checking out the Climate Control A/C & Heater issue. Roger

Thank Lexus Owners Club Forum: I recently purchased a 1999 RX300 and ... only then did I discover the Lexus Owners Club Forum. I quickly learned about the infamous 1999 RX300 transmission problem. As a result, I took extra precautions to insure that the drive train was in good condition and warranty(s) were purchased and adheared to. Also followed up on the Transmission fluid check, change and filter cleaning, flushing. (I plan to have it serviced every 15,000 miles.) I Had an Independent Lexus Dealer Used Car Inspection... It determined that the engine and the rest of the car was in excellent condition except as noted. As a result, I was able to request and receive from Koons GMC/Buick of Vienna, Va : a) a new main seal -- $ 1,400 b) a total transmission rebuild - $ 3,400 Total saving of about $ 5,000 I was able to insure that the car's transmission is now in good condition and will keep it that way. My hats off to all the knowlegeable Contributers to this Forum. My hats off to Koons GMC Buick of Vienna, Va for standing behind their used cars and it's warranty and performing the work. So far despite these startup used car problems, I really like this vehicle. Roger Myers

I have the same question... I'd like ALL three plugs to be hot alll the time. Even one would be fine. Or I could add one some where, but the most basic question is WHERE do you tap into the power and related... what fuse would it use? Roger

Before I purchased a used 1999 RX300 from a Buick dealer; I had a Lexus Dealer do a Used Car Checkout. They found a Leaky Main Seal.... and estimated it would cost $ 1400 ; since engine and trans had to be dropped. Much Labor. The Buick dealer said that they would honor the diagnosis and did the work, saying that the price was reasonable, but they could do it with their own mechanics. Hope this helps...and lets you make the shop vs DIY decision....

If the engine coolant temperture raises above "normal" the A/C compressor will be automatically disabled. Most commonly caused by a failed or intermittent radiator cooling fan. My temperature gage was about middle...and I think it is correct. The problem occured when I started the car cold. Then today twice, I used the car and the A/C came on. Today... I had put it in AUTO and did not hit off and then hit the A/C button. Monday I had been hitting the OFF button, then the A/C button and playing with the fan and temp settings. ???/

I've been fiddling with mine since I bought it a few weeks ago (2000 RX300). Here's what I've figured out: The time, average speed, and average mpg features are not tied to the odometer at all (a, b, or factory). The trip time automatically resets every time you start the engine. The average speed and average mpg are long term averages that do not reset when you turn the car on or off, but you can manually reset them (together, not individually) by holding down the display button when one of them is showing. Reset either one (ave spd or ave mpg) and both will reset. I haven't noticed whether resetting these also resets the trip time, but I don't much care about the trip time. I reset mine so I could measure our city mpg over the course of several weeks (17 btw). When we get it on the highway for the first time this weekend, we'll reset it to check the highway mpg. I may do the same again after I've cleaned the IACV to see if makes a noticable difference. If yours is holding steady at 19 even when you're on the highway, that's probably a very-long-term average. After you reset it, it will change by the moment, then the minute, then by the day, getting slower and slower to react to changes (hence my reset for highway driving). WoW... Excellent , clear answer... I was headed in that direction, but had not gotten to the reset question , let alone an answer.