lobotomyxx

They sent me pretty pictures, and my motor looked nothing like it -- had a valve cover cut off to expose the cams -- no 'Toyota' logo valve cover, wires, many sesnors or hoses Took me over 2 months to get my money back -- so much for 'customer satisfaction guaranteed when PayPal has to reinforce your refund My shop is SCCa, NHRa, NaSa certified, do everything from oil changes to to 1/2 million $, 3 run dragsters -- their word is the word You will probably get the same motor I returned, I'd bet even money I can send you pictures to prove.

If this is 'jdm_planet', or whatever name they are going by these days, DO NOT BUY FROM THEM I just got done dealing with this jerkwad. We did our own leakdown . . . #1- 42% #2- 23% #3- 55% #4- 49% #5- 35% #6- 52% Motor had been scrubbed with solvents, transmission did not seem very good either. Took 2 months to get my money back. Guy held my money hostage for a 5-star feedback rating, had to get PayPal involved over and over until they refunded the money for him.

In the process of doing an n/a JDM swap on my SC300, and the JDM transmission has a 5-input plug to the ECU versus the USDM 3-plug. Does anyone have any information on the wires, adaptors, or what to do for the swap? Familiar with this issue? Tried searching, have not found any information on this.

after a horrible experience locating a JDM 2j-gte swap, I will ask around here again if there are any good recommendations / positive experiences with sellers or individuals who deal with these swaps? I am swapping into a 95 SC300, parts, seals, mounts, driveshaft, etc are waiting to go . . . just need a swap. Looking for a twin turbo motor, automatic, any and all peripherals (ecu, harness, etc) included. I understand there could be some leak issues with used turbo motors -- last motor I had shot 50% or higher on 4/6 cylinders. anyone?? car is at the shop, ready to go . . .

$1800, free shipping; motor, auto trans, turbos, turbo intake and exhaust manifolds, ecu, uncut harness (was cut), ignitor, plugs and wires . . . complete swap, ready to go. i need someone who can give me a good lead on a better motor, if anyone knows anything? TT motor, if not trans my current should work, but I'd rather do a full swap.

mechanics diagnosis is bad valves, possible bad rings, possible rust in cylinders -- seller later admits 'motor sat 2 years or so, there might be rust, i dont know, start it up and i'll consider the quality.' in short, the shop is scca / nasa / nhra certified, they work on Supra's, Porsche, BMW, drag cars . . . even have 2 brand new GTR's they are stripping, caging and rebuilding for a few customers -- they don't screw around, are one of the highest authorities and professional opinions when it comes to cars / motors . . . I trust when they say the motor isn't good, or their professional diagnosis of what tear-down / rebuild is necessary. dispute has been filed with eBay and PayPal, we'll see what happens . . . I really wish I had $10g's for a rebuild, but then I'd pry do that with my n/a motor, or bought a brand new 2J to *BLEEP* with . . . don't buy from 'jdm_planet', its a front for the old Osaka motors that *BLEEP*ed so many people, and they hide their tracks well.

I recently started the process of a JDM TT 2j swap for my SC300. Did a ton of research, contacted people who have bought from various sellers, found a seller on eBay 'jdm_planet' who had good things said of them. Spoke with them, guy was straight and confident, I went with them. The motor arrived absolutely clean, couldn't have been happier. Leakdown test, however . . . #1- 42% #2- 23% #3- 55% #4- 49% #5- 35% #6- 52% I know 10% or less is great, get around 20% you consider rebuild -- most leakage is intake side, some exhaust. I've heard back and forth on this -- needs rebuilding, machining, major overhaul, etc, do not install it, its *BLEEP*. I have also heard its what I should expect, it is a used, turbo motor. It will run fine, and eventually is recommended to rebuild for more power / longer life. Currently everything is at the shop waiting to go, and my seller is not interested in giving me my money back. The latter opinion is also backed by a friend who has done 10 different JDM swaps - RB's, SR20's, 2j's - said he has seen it most of the time, even his own car (240 w/ sr20 putting out 380whp on 17psi) and our friend Denis' (Skyline, rb25 putting out 430whp @??psi) So do I go forward with this, have something to have some fun with (no hardcore racing), rebuild during the winter? Do I say the engine is *BLEEP* and make sure I get money back to go with something else? anyone with experience, or knowledge, its very much appreciated, and days are ticking on the return period (lol)

Except the actuator wasn't broke -- the piece of metal the connects the door handle to the door control mechanism came off. If the whole actuator was broken the inside door handle and locks would also stop working since they are all controlled by the same mechanism 1. What they listed as things wrong was bull*BLEEP*. 2. I didn't walk away -- to quote myself . . . The guy made no attempt to sell me on anything, just acted like a cocky prick. Maybe they thought I was going to freak out on them? LOL, you keep talking about how things are at your dealership . . . is that common practice too? Do mechanics at your dealership advise legitimate repairs as often as they NEGLECT TO PROVIDE advice based on some random assumption the customer will "freak out"? This being the same dealership where someone told you to put something in your tailpipe? Let me tell you something -- do they opposite of everything they tell you. I appreciate your aim to assist, but blindly defending a dealer based on the idea that your good guy dealership speaks for all dealerships is a little silly.

Really . . .

Up until the day it went out you couldn't feel the transmission shift, it was THAT smooth, and it was well maintained with Toyota fluid and filters. Flat out, I told the people at the dealership NOT to do all those "courtesy" checks -- I handed them the piece that broke off my door handle and said, "How much and how long to fix it?" It took them an hour and a half to not listen to me and quote $700 for "a new accuator" -- a metal hinge came loose, I didn't know how it reattached, but after jiggling over and over it finally went back in. On top of that the other words out of the guy's mouth were, "And I shouldn't even have to *bother* telling you what else is wrong . . . I mean, you have thousands of dollars of damage to the car and . . . well, good luck with it, I'm sure you don't want us to do anything to it." At the same time, this isn't about the *BLEEP*-poor service of an unnamed local dealer, but it is about figuring out the transmission situation. And any of the more knowledged guys here should correct me where I'm wrong; I know the elctronics, some features as part of my car are different from a Supra, I still have a naturally aspirated 2j, have never heard of any real difference between that of a Supra of SC300, aside of some size and custom-fitting parts. I have read before that most of the transmissions are interchangeable between the two cars, with little or moderate modification, and possible swapping of electronics / wiring. I wish I could find the article, but through many google / this forum's searches I am not finding any answers. I have not tried starting the car yet for fear of damage -- it has been very cold, rainy and snowy here the past week, thus I still need to check fluids / drop the tranny pan to check for metals. If I'm lucky the filter is clogged and I have a bit of cleaning to do.

i *still* need to know if any Supra TURBO automatic transmissions are compatible with my 1995 SC300, or beyond upgrades to my stock transmission, is either a th400 or C4 transmission worth time / effort for turbo (30psi+) application in the future? Exhaust + BFI intake + stock engine + gaskets + 144,000 miles

1999 Saturn SL2 sedan . . . I miss this car 1.9l bored over 2.0l with 91 sc2 pistons & rings, Apexi Neo w/ AEM wideband for fuel control, 440cc Supra injectors, re-grounded the car to its true sub-frame, re-spooled alternator (180a), optima red top, kyb gr-2's wth H&R race springs, Konig hyper-light 10.2lb race wheels, sohc transmission swap, hot air intake, bored throttle body, custom 2.5" exhaust. Naturally aspirated setup put down 220fwhp, ran a 14.1 @ 93.2mph with conservative tuning. Handled like an m3 coupe, roared something fierce for the 4 banger it was. I really miss that car. But it did well by me . . . I got to walk away.

144,000

So I was just up the street from my house when I heard several loud clunky-bangs from beneath the car, and smoke slowly billowing from under the windshield edge of the hood. Rolled it in front of my house, horrible burning smell still kicks your face when you lean in the cabin. Key position will turn to on (I haven't tried to start it), and you can shift through all the gears -- it does not feel like its connected to / moving anything in the transmission. I don't suspect any damage to the engine, will start to take things apart tomorrow. Fluid under the car is dark and thick. Oil is still thin, slightly brown (I run Royal Purple). Seems to me the transmission has somehow eaten itself, more than likely due to bad / low fluid. Had it at the Lexus dealership (mistake, and mistake, and mistake) a few weeks ago to have the door handle fixed ($700? I laughed at them and left), and they treated me like an *BLEEP* the whole time, so Lord knows if they did anything to it. I check fluids 1-2 times weekly, drive it aggressive enough without abusing or being a jackass, maintain it as it is my baby. All the same, seems the transmission is blown, and I am more in favowur of over-building / best setting up the car for eventual turbo work. I prefer to keep an automatic transmission, and I intend to keep this as my daily driver. I like the idea of doing a TH400, something similar, but do not know what all is behind it aside of parts and a good mechanic. What are my options on transmissions? Does anyone have experience using a TH400, C4, or comparable automatic transmission? What about the Supra turbo auto? And with all that said, there is also the idea of just doing the whole damn engine / trans swap now. Anyone, take it from there . . .

I've reached the point of install, ready to set it up and fire up the car . . . Then conflicting data occurs to me! Apexi's website says my car is a "Pressure-3" sensor, while several write-ups around the net will back this up, or suggest its a Karman sensor. Before I blow up my car, someone advise me; What the hell settings do I need? 1995 Lexus SC300 n/a auto thanks (and I did search) *EDIT* At this point I have verified that neither Karman or Hot Flap (sensor settings) work in any regard. On the recommended "Pressure 3in/3out" I have to gas a bit and let go of the key before it fully fires, and with that I get a choppy idle around 1k. If I touch the accelerator, even so slightly, it bogs and starts to kill itself. I have tried other settings / sensors and that was the only combination that came close to working. Re-did all the wires from start, still nothing. Removed the SAFC, car runs perfectly. Anyone . . . please? The goal is to thin down in the early RPMs (it especially likes to bog with custom 3" exhaust, no cats) and let it continue to scream in the top end; otherwise balance out the fuel delivery for all kinds of driving. *end of edit* -greg