gbhrps

Awake, You obviously blew a fuse or fried a wire somewhere. I suggest that you visit those radio fuses again and change them, even if they look good. Been there and had to do it myself, and discovered a fuse that looked good, but had actually melted through where it wasn't easily seen. It only showed up on a multimetre. If you still get no juice, check the wiring harness for continuity. Could there be a fusable link in that harness somewhere? A factory service manual should tell the tale. Be sure to check your Accessory fuses as well, since the radio needs one constant 12 volt supply that is live at all times, that keeps the station memory and audio settings, and another separate 12 volt supply that turns the radio on and runs it when the ignition or Acc switch is on with the key. Usually that live all the time power wire is yellow to orange in colour, while the switched power line is red. Perhaps that live all the time 12 volt supply line is dead, and is needed to fire up the other 12 volt supply when you push the power switch.

Remove the pieces that look like they may fall out easily, or that you can't get out without a great deal of trouble. You don't have to remove all of the old mirror, because you'll be using a 3/16th of an inch bead of clear silicone over the entire old mirror and its underlying plastic base. A bead entirely around the outside of the old mirror, in about a half inch from the edge of the glass, plus a zigzag back and forth across the inside of the outside bead will be sufficient. When you press the new mirror into place over the old one, CAREFULLY, the silicone will level itself out to fill the hollows and give you a good bond. Be sure to use lots of masking tape to keep the glass from changing position until it sets up completely in 24 hours or so. Remember to not get everything so thick (the old mirror, silicone and new mirror sandwich) that it interferes with the mirror's free movement when you activate your mirror switch, so you still get full up/down/side to side movement without it hitting the mirror canopy surround. I've repaired several using this method and it works like a charm. You shouldn't be disappointed with your results.

Motoroil has hit on security measure that works well as an engine disabler. I've used this method for years whenever I've been forced to park my car where I would be concerned about car thieves, long term airport parking, hotel parking lots, etc. Pop the hood and disconnect the connector to the Mass Airflow Meter (MAF) and simply just put the wiring harness connector back in place without pushing it it into its fully locked position, so that none of the internal metal pins touch. If thieves try to hotwire or jump the ignition, the engine will just crank forever until the battery dies, but will never start. This works on any car with electronic fuel injection. Obviously if thieves want the car badly enough, they could just tow it.

The mirrored glass is mounted on a plastic plate. The plate itself has a central ball socket for attachment to the mirror body, and two smaller ones alongside which are attached to the motor drive units for up and down/side to side movement. It is not designed to come apart, but it can be done, but you need to remove the entire mirror assembly from the car and have lots of patience, because it will be a major pain where you cannot have an ache. I have been there, done that and don't want to do it again unless absolutely necessary, hopefully in another lifetime. Instead, take a piece of heavy wrapping paper, place it over the the mirror glass, trace around its outside edge on the paper, and then cut out your pattern. Take the paper pattern to a glass house and have them cut you a new one. Be sure to tell them what it is for so that they will use a thin mirror rather than something else which may be way too thick and heavy. (Be aware that there are commercially available re-mirroring kits available for this exact purpose as well. I would imagine that you might get one from an automotive glass place. Maybe worth checking out.) Once you get the new mirror glue the new one right over the old mirror using standard silicone seal. Use lots and then hold the new mirror in place using lots of masking tape. Let the silicone set up and cure for a full 24 hours, remove the tape and you'll be good to go. Obviously if you have factory heated mirrors, the repaired mirror is most likely not going to do too much heating. Personally I've restored 3 such mirrors using this method over the years, with excellent results. Good Luck!

Jeff, Since you have power to the switch, obviously there is no burned out fuse. Your problem then has to be in one of two other areas. The wired grid of the seat heater elements is defective and needs replacing (read expensive: the seat has to be removed from the car and its seat cover removed, etc., etc.), or more simply the wiring harness for the seat heater from under the carpet to the seat bottom has come undone, or is corroded and needs cleaning. Get under the seat with a flashlight and see if you're lucky enough to go the simple route. Be aware that if your passenger seat is power adjustable as well as heated, there well may be two wiring harnesses under there. Good Luck!

We ran regular unleaded for the 200 000 km that we owned my wife's last 97 ES 300 with absolutely no problems what so ever. Her present 04 ES 330 has run on regular since new, has presently got 82 000 km on the clock, and runs like a Swiss watch. Be aware that our driving habits do not put a lot of stress or demands on any of our vehicles. If we were akin to hammering them frequently, then without a doubt I would insist that we power them with premium to keep preignition from destroying the motors.

nkm, The motor to drive the rear shade will be in the trunk under the parcel shelf and attached to the power shade. I've never had reason to check the one out on my wife's car but it makes sense that it will be located there. I would start first by checking the switch itself in the centre console. Chances are that the previous owner has spilled a drink on it and it needs cleaning. Rather than try pulling it from the console (and possibly scratching the console) get some electrical contact cleaner in a spray bomb from Radio Shack or similar, and spray a liberal amount into the top of the switch, and then cycle the switch many times. Be sure to wipe off the excess from the console quickly, and then wait for the cleaner in the switch to evaporate before turning on the ignition and trying to power up the shade. If after two or three applications this doesn't do the trick, you may have to remove the switch from the console and either change it out, or open it up and give it an interior cleaning. The second thing to try would be to try powering the shade from a separate 12 volt car battery while right in the trunk. Climb into the trunk, locate the shade's wiring harness, disconnect it, and try applying 12 volts to its various connectors. If the shade doesn't move, you have several decisions to make: replace it (very expensive I'll bet, or just leave it alone and live with it). If the shade powers up, then you have a wiring problem to the centre console switch or to power or ground. You might try seeing if any of your fuses are blown. Lastly, the wiring for this system is connected to the transmission. For instance, if the rear shade is up and you put the car into reverse, the shade will power down and stay down until you use the switch to put it up again. Its considered a safety item to be down when you are backing up for visibility. You will find that either in the console attached to the gear shift, or on the transmission itself will be a reverse switch tied into the power shade's circuit, and this contact may well be corroded, broken or has come disconnected. You have some sleuthing to do to get to the bottom of your problem. Hope this was more help than frightening. Good Luck!

fixandfly, Your leak could be anywhere in the power steering system. I've seen cars where the steering rack needed new seals, the power steering pump needed new seals, and the high pressure hose leaked as well. You won't know until you get everything cleaned up and dry and then get the car running and in the air with someone behind the wheel. Then have them turn the steering wheel lock to lock while you search for the leak source with a flashlight. The most common leak source is the high pressure hose where the rubber hose is crimped to its metal ends, followed by the banjo joints (where the hose is fastened at the pump and the steering rack). Usually these joints just require new copper washers to seal the joints up. Anyhow, the replacement of parts is time consuming because of the cramped working space, but not above the average DIYer if you take your time. Good Luck and let us know how you make out.

I rather doubt that hard driving would cause valve stem seals to leak. Its usually the result of old age on cars ten or more years or on high mileage vehicles. It may be the result of one or more faulty seals improperly installed at the factory or made with some imperfection. A five year old Toyota engine shouldn't exhibit this problem, unless it has over 350 000 miles. The car should be fine to drive as is, as long as oil doesn't start to foul a spark plug. Then the car will start to run rough. Pulling the plugs and reading them will tell which cylinder has faulty seals, and how bad the problem really is. That is, if leaking valve stem seals is really your problem.

tonyatl, Until you get the door panel off you won't know what to fix or replace. You really don't give us enough to know where to direct you for a fix. When you press the switch, do you hear a click or the motor running? When you say the window slides down by itself, are you saying that the glass has come disconnected from the window crank mechanism and can be slid up and down by hand with no hinderance from the motor? Did you mean that the window switch is beat up and doesn't work? Usually you cannot switch rear window regulator systems with front ones. What I would do is to pull the inner door panel and the plastic inner weather liner (just a plastic film) and figure out what needs fixing/replacing. At that point used parts from an auto wrecker is the cheapest way to go. Keep in mind that many parts from Toyota Camry's for the same model run may be innterchageable with your Lexus, making the chances at getting what you need cheaper and easier. Get back to us with what you find out. Good Luck!

cqhockey101, Go online to "installdr.com" known as the install doctor. They sell various hookup connectors for all makes of cars and different makes of audio equipment. They'll have what you need to connect your Lexus wiring harness right up to your JVC head unit in one easy step. They even have charts to show what each connector pin hooks up to and its wire colour. It really couldn't be any simplier. Good Luck!

Pambie, A well treated Toyota engine shouldn't require a rebuild at 143 000 miles. The blue smoke at start up but not after sounds more like tired valve stem seals (cheap part but labour intensive to replace). What happens is that the seals allow oil to leak down the valve stems into the combustion chamber. It shows up at startup since the oil has had all night to leak down, but you don't often see the smoke while driving since very little gets by the seals when the engine is running. Given enough time the oil will foul the plugs, and the car runs rough. I'd really get a second opinion to actually narrow down where the oil is coming from, and then see if you can't find someone you trust to do the job within your wallet's ability. Good Luck!

brainzey, Years ago my wife had a Cressida that had the same symptoms. Blue smoke on startup after the car had sat for a while. Otherwise you never saw the symptom at all. Over time it became worse. Toyota techs sourced the problem to worn/tired valve stem seals. Oil leaked down the valve stems into the combustion chambers and showed up after the car had sat overnight. During normal driving the leaks were so minute that no visible oil smoke could be seen. They removed the spark plugs, valve covers, etc., pumped each cylinder up with air(To keep the valves in the head) and then replaced the valve seals. Parts weren't expensive, but there was a fair amount of labour involved. Still, in our case, it was a fairly cheap fix that granted us several more years of trouble free motoring. Good Luck!

Somewhere on the transmission there will be a switch that screws into the transmission case. Its sole purpose will be to trigger the backup lights when you shift into reverse. Either your switch is bad or the connector to it is corroded or has a broken wire. I've never had to trace down one on any of my Toyota/Lexus vehicles, but it makes sense that you'll find it on the sides or top of the tranny, tucked up out of harm's way. You may need to see a shop manual or ask a Toyota Tech to direct you to its location exactly.

Motoroil, Everything is doable, if you have the tools, the time and the experience. I'm a backyard mechanic who has been in the backyard for quite a while, and I would tackle this job, but not happily. You can do the job on jack stands, but using a hoist would make it soooo much simpler. You will need some specialized tools to remove the tie rods (Possibly rent them from your parts supplier? Some places will just lend them to you.) And if you measure carefully the number of threads showing on each of your tie rods on the old rack, and put them at the same measurement on your new rack, you won't have to do a front end alignment when completed. There isn't a lot of room to work and that will raise the frustration point. Use the correct power steering fluid and filling procedure when you get everything installed. Good Luck!

Kingmag2006, The shaking you are feeling when braking is very common and almost always front brake related. Usually it means that the front rotors are warped and need replacing, as well as the front pads. Sometimes the rotors get glazed from overheating and it causes the pulsing you feel. In this case, if the rotors aren't too thin, they can be ground down to remove the glazing. Sometimes the shaking is the result of a sticking caliper, that either needs its slide pins freed up because of lack of lubricant, or water in the caliper's brake fluid that has rusted the piston, causing it to grab and release abnormally. Regardless, I'll bet that your brakes need attention. At 17 years old your car should have had its brakes flushed at least 3 times since new. I'm betting your hasn't, hence the problems. The funny noise when you drive could be anything, but most likely is brake related, meaning either one caliper isn't releasing when you take your foot off of the brake pedal, or a pad is rusted in place and is dragging on its rotor. Its easy to find. Drive several miles, get out of the car and find the rotor that's overheating. Be careful not to burn your hand. As for the lag time when accelerating from a stop, your car needs to have its computer scanned. The codes will tell you what needs fixing, new plugs, failing injector, throttle position sensor, etc. Good Luck!

Kimberly, You will spend more time staring at that dash pad during the time you own the car, than you will the outside of the car. If the dealership wants to replace the dash pad, particularly under warranty ..... DO IT! There is no concern about what problems they might create by doing so, because they will be obligated to correct them and make them right. They are trained to take the dash and its components apart to replace wiring, gauges, radios, etc., and they know the procedures on how to do it without damaging any of the parts they remove or replace. You bought the best, a Lexus, and can expect the best from the people who will service your vehicle. I would not hesitate for 2 seconds before I said yes. Sorry, make that 1 second. Best Wishes!

If your tail light assembly has been damaged (cracked/pieces missing/attachment bolts broken from the plastic) or the sheet metal where the tail light attaches is bent/torn or misshapen in any way, I would suggest that you get a replacement tail light assembly and repair/straighten the sheet metal. You will most likely never be able to keep the water out otherwise. A used tail light assembly from a local auto wrecker or from eBay is your cheapest route (short of stealing one). If the sheet metal is damaged, you are best to see a body shop for repairs. As for cleaning the disk changer lens (that's assuming that this is the problem) again you are best taking the unit to a repair shop unless you know what you're doing. To get at the lens you'll have to remove the unit from the car and open its case. At that point an electronics tech person should be able to tell you instantly if the water has ruined the changer. If the unit isn't full of water and corrosion it may be able to clean the lens very carefully with a Q tip dipped in the same alcohol that you would use for cleaning eye glasses. Use a stronger liquid and you could melt the lens. If you're a confident do-it-yourselfer then go for it. If not you are best leaving the problems to someone who knows what they are doing.

Water seldomly gets into the trunk from underneath unless the car has been in a flood. The usual culprits are the seals around the tail lights, the trunk lid seal, the rear windshield, or a faulty rear drain tube from the sunroof. The only way to know for sure is to pull the rear carpets and side panels, have someone get into the trunk with a flashlight, close the trunk lid, and have someone outside of the car systematically pour water from a garden hose over the rear of the car. Start at the tail lights, running the water over the lenses, pausing long enough for results to be seen inside the car. If nothing shows up, progress to the trunk lid, then the rear windshield, and finally the sunroof. As for the CD changer, a repair depot may find that all it needs is to have the reading lens cleaned. Unless water has badly corroded or shorted out the changer's interior workings, it may be cheaper to repair the unit rather than replace it. Finding a replacement unit that is compatible with your dash radio may be a problem. You might try eBay for a used unit, particularly for a 13 year old car. Good Luck!

bluetrain, In all of the years that I've owned automobiles I've only had one that came with a remote starter, and I doubt that I would have one installed in another car. Too much wasted fuel (at today's prices), too much unnecessary hydrocarbons (everybody's supposed to think green now, right?) Enough for the rant! Don't install one unless it requires a two step starting procedure, such as having to press the" lock door" button before pressing the "start engine" button. The unit that came with my car had only a one button start engine remote. I always kept my house/car keys in my pants pocket, and when I sat down to watch television, read a book, eat dinner, or put on my shoes, I would discover later that the keys had doubled over onto the remote, and that the car had started and was running in the garage. A two step remote would have eliminated that danger entirely.

BTDT many times on all sorts of modern and antique cars, and they are all different, and if you take your time and look at everything carefully the whole job will telegraph how it should be done. A few hints: To get the old unit out and the new one in usually has to be done with the glass assembly disconnected from the track assembly. Some units require the window to be almost 3/4's down so that the bolts that go through the track assembly and through holes in the bottom of the glass line up with access holes that are punched through the interior steel door panel. What I'm saying is, that with the interior door panel/lock and window switches/door handles removed, using various openings in the interior steel door sheeting plus a trouble light, find how the glass is attached to the lifting assembly. Most are bolts through the glass, others are plastic slides that lock into holes in the glass and the track. Most often you can see where they have to be undone, but can't get to them until the glass is lowered to appropriate holes in the door itself. Some may even be more towards the top of the door. Unfasten the glass and lift/twist one end of the glass up or down to get it out of its front and rear tracks, and then out through the top of the door opening. Then disconnect the window motor harness at the motor. There will be 3 or 4 bolts that mount the motor/window crank assembly to the interior door sheet metal. Some cars sometimes use rivets that must be ground off instead. Usually the entire assembly must be collapsed down to its smallest size to be able to get it out of the larger openings in the bottom of the door panel. You might have to reconnect the motor wiring harness and switch assembly and power the assembly down to a more compact size, in order to remove it. From there, everything is just the reverse to put in the new/used window crank assembly. Even if you can't figure out how to do the job yourself and have to take the car to a tech, having already removed the interior door panel, switches and door handle will save you some money. Good Luck!

Darkwingduck, The water caused discolouration around the hole, the shape of the opening with the bossed outer and inner ledges, telegraphs that this is a frost plug hole. You are playing with engine destruction if you continue to drive the car before getting a new plug installed! Go to a good mechanic and get him to properly install a new metal plug, or go to an auto parts store and get an "expandable plug" , one that fits the inside diameter of the interior bossed ledge that you can see inside your 2nd and 3rd photos. These plugs can be installed by a DIYer with a half inch wrench or ratchet in less than 2 minutes. Just be sure to push it all of the way into the inner opening so that when it expands it does so on that inner ledge. There is not enough of the outer ledge to properly grip the plug. I just replaced one 3 weeks ago that fell out of the engine block of my 1954 MG TF while I was driving it. It wasn't properly installed during the car's restoration since it just fell out and wasn't corroded in any way. ( Fortunately the smell of coolant was immediate when it fell out, as was the instant rise in temperature on the temp gauge, and my killing the engine and coasting to the side of the road.) The expandable plug should last the life of the car so your problem should be corrected. Good Luck!

Deegan, Evidence of water laying on top of the rocker panel (the opening where the door fits into) is common, and unless its massive amounts, I don't think its a problem. You might check to see if the door seals along the bottom of the doors are intact and in place. As far as the sunroof drains are concerned, there is one plastic drain that goes down both front A pillars (between windshield and side door glass) and empties behind the front fenders. The rear drains usually come off the back end of the sunroof tracks ( the tracks are twice as long as your sunroof is from front to rear). Again, usually the drains go down the C pillars and empty behind the rear wheel well between the body and the rear bumper cover. Some cars, my Subaru Outback Wagon for one, have dual sunroofs, and then you have another set of drain tubes that go down the B pillars and empty out below the rocker panels. In all of the years that I've owned sunroof equipped cars, I have never heard water drain down those tubes, whether the car was at rest or at speed. I'm betting that you heard a combination of wind noise/water noise caused by the water being blown past window mouldings/the mirrors/ etc. and upsetting the normal wind blow by pattern, if such a thing exists? Just my 3 cents worth.

I'm certain the fuse is not your problem. If it was, you wouldn't be able to lock the doors from the switches. Since door locks work on an actuator that works in both directions (one to lock, the other to close) I would think that you have two dirty lock switches. If you can't hear any movement from inside the doors when you push the switches to the unlock position, then no current is getting to the actuator. First disconnect the battery. Try spraying electrical contact cleaner into the switches and cycle them several times. Do it twice, and then wait 10 minutes to give the cleaner time to evaporate. Reconnect the battery and try unlocking the doors with the switches. You might even have to remove the switches from the door panels, in order to get the spray into any cracks or openings on the switches, if it can't be done with them in their normal positions in the door panel. As far as your outside door handle not opening the door, while the inside handle does, this means that the rod from the outside handle to the lock assembly has come disconnected from the lock assembly, or is bent. If bent, it just needs to be shaped. If it has fallen off, usually a small plastic clip has broken or come undone and fallen to the bottom of the door. (You might even find it there at the bottom of the door!) Obviously to correct the problem, you'll have to remove the interior door panel to get at it. Good Luck!

The typical culprits have resurfaced, if you have a clicking sound but the starter won't turn over. Usually the battery cables have corroded and needs to be cleaned up. Next in line would be a battery that has sulfated up to the point that it won't hold a charge anymore, read old age, or one that hasn't been properly maintained. Then again, it might be that your battery has developed a short and needs replacing. After that comes a charging system that isn't up to par, or a loose alternator belt. Or, it could be that your starter has gone south. It doesn't sound too serious, but you'll have to get a car tech to track down just what decided to not cooperate. Good Luck!