kaosfive2005

i have a 96 lexus es300 with 150,000 miles i was wondering which oil would be best, if it would make a difference and if it did what would be the difference. I work for a car dealership, they used to put in synthetic but i guess this time they didnt (i figured what i did last time was saved in the computer) the operations manager stated it would make no difference so i was just wondering. He said that also puting in synthetic into an older high miled car would open up more leaks due to it cleaning up, (if say there was already an oil leak with the conventional oil and over time it stopped because of the oil being built up)

im glad i found out on this forum before buying, this mechanic messed up my key paid to have it replaced but i figured maybe i can get a cut one from ebay, replace the blade with my old blade, but you're saying this isnt gonna work? the blade on my key now does come off cortousy of it being messed up so i figured maybe i can do the same

ya i got duped paid someone 120 to clean out my EGR but light still came back in, he said if that would happen if i bring in the part he wouldl put it in for me and not charge me labor since i paid the 120

whats the FSM?? i need to replace it too

i had mine removed the other day because mechanics accidentally rolled down my window when i told them not to because it gets stuck, you remove the fasteners, the lil change holder or whatever you want to call it on the door also needs to be pried, i noticed they used a screw driver to wedge the panel off the door, because of the age

interesting a wweek ago the check engine light came on and had it looked at it was the 0401 code, i know nothin bout cars and they were sayin they'll clean it and put it together for 120 so i guess i got ripped on that..wonderful but they did smash my key up somehow and they said they'll pay for replacing it which is good, i havent paid em yet for the service but maybe i can negotiate a lower price.

actually i have that same problem, same year lexus, its the driver window it inches down and likewise upward. I havent had it repaired yet, dont know if its really worth it ive had it for a year and managed. my car has about 155k miles on it, runs great hope to keep it another 2 years at least

what about if you have the 92-96 body on it? is it the same set up?/process

thanks bdonkersgoed, i figured it out, you just have to yank it out of that white clip..

thanks gator, now the thing is today i attempted to change the bulb, i did the directions from the previous page, i removed the clips, then the 3 10mm screws that attaches the headlight to thte car, i then removed the harnesses for high and low beam and then the next step was to remove the headlight from the car, but it was still attached, and i beleive by a white lil screw or something that i cant access. I checked the other headlight and it had the same so i got stuck there

mine did that, other folks claimed it is indeed the blinker, i have yet to fix mine so im not sure if it is true or not lol..but will get back to you...amber yellow light is what its stated or it may be another kind of bulb

that seems quite pricey for only 3 years of warranty..try continental warranty program, ive heard they're very good...its 3rd party, but typically of course you may save a LOT more or get more years on the warranty instead of just 3 for the same price

typically lease buy outs arent the best considering how much the vehicle is..the pro's is you know how well or not well the vehicle was maintained by your parents, and lease owners typically must keep car in top shape so they dont get slammbed with reconditioning/ wear and tear fee's etc...the con is the price of the vehicle, possibly if no downpayment was made, the way leasing is your not actually payin full price for the car, so to buy it out the vehicle owed may be more than the vehicle value..but you stated you leased before so im sure this is not new to you..hope everything works out but as far as financing cant recall any

I gotta thank you gator for finding this thread, i posted a question about this very exact problem even searched for previous posts but this is perfect, i just have to figure out which bulb i need for my turn signal!

..and also what i should beware of and precautions so i dont damage anything inside the door

wait so re-cap what were the exact steps to take off the driver door panel? reason being I'd like to take it off to take a look at my window motor to see why my driver window keeps getting stuck. I figured its not the regulator but the motor, when it gets hot it freezes or gets stuck. I put up a post about it before so now yea i just gotta figure out how to take out the panel so i can take a gander

I guess im lost

that car has definately lived its lifetime..damn 250k miles...im at 154, and i drive an average of 6-8k miles a year, i'd have this car for a long time if it lasts as long as yours, what kind of other problems have you encountered since you've had the vehicle?

my a/c only works when i put the fan on high/max power, when i have it in low, low-medium, medium my a/c doesnt blow any air out at all. Im trying to figure why this is going on, let me know your experiences and what you may think it is. it's related to the switch but what it is exactly im not sure, thanks!

maybe you have to break the new struts in?

you mean batteries for the remote or car battery?

ya makes sense, i lifted one flap up the other day, i need a socket or wrench in order to unlock it. so i need to look for a bulb, what do you all suggest? walmart? autozone?

so my question is whats the best way of getting into the headlight/turn signal compartment and removing the headlights? and what tools will be required

I have an ES right now, i know the expectancy of longevity on the ES, im curious towards the IS300's what to expect as far as whats the average miles people are putting on without it starting to break down. I also heard that typically every year insurance gets higher since parts are more scarce? thanks im doing research since im in the market