gaknut

You indeed just proved my point in your own assessment of your abilities. You will also note that I also said "most" Rottweiler handlers. Why did you take it so personal and not expect me to when you said "most" people over 50?

I was simply trying to tell you the REAL reason Lexus added the ECT switch but if you think it's for performance then.....How about dual ECT switches.....Yea! I haven't seen too many LS's pulling a trailer either but neither have I seen many in any type of performance competition!!! You stated "most" and by that insulted probably "most" of the members of this forum who happen to be over 50 and yes, there are a few.. Your statement was prejudicial and a direct slam to most people over 50, some of whom may actually be a little more informed than yourself, though I'm certain you may find that difficult to accept. I'm certain you have probably heard the statement that most male Rottweiler handlers are merely compensating for their lack of manhood! Get my point?

As one of those Lexus owner/buyers who is over 50 and doesn't know how anything works, please let me offer my uninformed opinion. First of all I bought my first LS because I recognized how things are supposed to work and recognized that Lexus simply made them work better than anyone else. The idea expressed that the ECT switch is intended as some sort of idiot proof performance enhancing device is absurd and laughable. When maximum power is required such as passing simply slamming the accelerator to the floor is all that is necessary and whether the ECT switch is engaged or not it will not affect engine performance. As correctly stated the ECT switch simply delays the shift points in the transmission. It is intended to be used when the engine may be placed under extreme stresses such as pulling a trailer or climbing a steep incline which can cause damage to engine pistons if excessive (in the "olden days" we called it "pinging"). Instead of manually downshifting simply depress the ECT switch and let it work as intended. Under these conditions when driving a manual (stick) shift transmission you would simply delay upshifts. The ECT switch simply does this for you to help avoid possible internal engine damage. No more, no less. Yup...even drive over the speed limit............................ocassionally! ;)

You also might check to see if you have brake lights when you are unable to get it out of park. If not check that the fuse hasn't come loose or corroded making intermittent contact

Climate has little to do with engine temp, so would recommend replacing entire unit (fan and clutch). Missing blade should be cause for concern. Why is it missing? A missing blade would cause the fan to be severely out of balance. Several sensors on this engine rely on proper engine temp to adjust fuel, timing, etc. Just too critical an item to attempt a shortcut.

Plugs are located under the long black plastic strips going down the center of each valve cover. You will need to remove about all of the black plastic covers on the front top on the engine as wires and dist caps are located under them. Pretty straightforward as you just look for the small bolts that retain them. Dist caps and rotors should be replaced at the same time. Not sure about plug wires as they are really very durable and reliable on this vehicle but it is your choice.

I be a member who had pump seize up. Your engine is definitely non-interference. (I checked when mine was apart - 92ls). Inlet pipe must be removed and 0-ring replaced. (Quite easy really just be sure to lube o-ring with antifreeze or suitable alternative when installing)

Glad to hear you got it done. Ingenuity, I love it! Almost always several ways to get to the end. Incidently, I'm not sure of the mileage on your ls but you might take a good look at the 2 idler bearings while you have it apart. If mileage is high (150,000+) suggest changing them. True, turning radius is a function of the ratchet. What if you are using a breaker bar?

As a professional mechanic (Diesel) I can assure you that while 6 point sockets are an absolute neccessity in instances where considerable force is necessary, the sockets in my set that see the most usage are indeed 12 point. Much easier and faster to use, not to mention the fact that I have seen too many instances where side clearances and smaller turning radius dictate that a 12 point be used. Each type has its place and if I only were able to own only one it would have to be a high quality 12 point set. Just my opinion formed by years of actual experience. As a practical matter, I regularly interchange 5/16=8mm,7/16 =11mm,1/2=13mm,11/16=17mm,3/4=19mm & 7/8=22mm in instances not requiring extreme force and vice versa (in some instances, substituting provides an even tighter fit) I know, right tool for the job!!! ;) P.S. I hope you got that damn bolt off!

I wasn't really recommending using a standard socket instead of a metric but simply to determine the correct size that a 7/8 socket is very nearly identical to a 22mm which I believed to be the correct size needed. I wasn't sure of the size and this is an easy method to determine unless you want to buy a complete set of GOOD quality impact sockets (not a bad idea anyway). A suitable compressor is indeed a necessity. Should build to at least 125psi and large enough capacity tank to maintain enough pressure. Normally 5 horsepower/60 gal tanks will suffice. More power is even better. I'm hoping by this time you have been successful!

Bolts are indeed normal threaded (RH). I, too have heard of others removing this bolt successfully with the starter method, however, as difficult as it is to replace these starters I personally wouldn't recommend this as the starter drive could easily break if the bolt was simply too tight. I don't recall the size of the bolt for sure but think it was a 22mm head which is nearly eqivalent to 7/8" (6 point impact socket recommended)but do recall that the torque was 180 lbs

You almost definitely will need a fairly powerful impact wrench and good quality impact socket to remove the center bolt as it is normally on too tight for hand tools. You may also need a tool to keep the engine from turning especially if you are usinf hand tools. Be extremely careful to not round off the bolt or you will will really have a problem(normally happens with cheap or incorrect sockets). I wasn't able to use hand tools but impact did the trick. If your timing marks line up you are good to go as you can't be off stroke, just be certain marks line up perfectly. If you are replacing belt, your new belt may even have alignment timing marks on it to help. Did you replace the water pump? STRONGLY recommend while you have the chance.

You might try an old used car dealer's method. SoftScrub cleanser (yep, bathtub cleaner) applied with a damp cloth on a small section at a time. Wipe off excess with damp cloth then apply leather conditioner. I think you will notice it will be quite a bit softer and cleaner. It won't hurt the stitching as long as you don't soak it to the extreme.

I changed mine (92LS) at 165,000 (very easy driving) simply because I was nervous. It still looked good when it was removed and I think it would have gone quite a bit longer however I also thought the water pump was OK but it seized after 35,000 more miles taking out the new belt and both idler bearings. Would strongly recommend changing water pump, belt, and idlers if mileage is 150,000 or more but up to that point really think problems may be exageratd somewhat especially by the dealerships. Since Gen I is non-interference worst that can happen is you have to tow to have items replaced anyway. I might rethink that if the vehicle is used a lot on long distance trips and you are somewhat paranoid about being stalled somewhere in Timbuktu and the only local mechanic says "Yup, I think I kin fix'er in bout a week or so."!! :D

The primary difference between wheels listed for FWD and RWD has to do with the amount of offset. Most import cars (Lexus included) use the wheels listed for FWD due to the offset even though they are rear wheel drive cars. Confusing, but be sure to check for the correct offset listed for your car. There is a difference between Gen I and Gen II. When upgrading to wider wheels this must be considered. If offset is incorrect, they may rub inside against the brake calipers or struts. If offset is the other way, the wheels will stick out of the wheel openings.

It is best for you to determine how the car is driven before choosing brake pads. Lots of high speed stops generate heat which demands ceramic pads. The ceramic will last longer, be less prone to fade on high speed stops, and have noticeably less brake dust but they also tend to be noisier and also will cause the rotors to wear out much faster. If you drive relatively easy organic pads will work satisfactorily for you, you'll simply have to replace them a little more often and they are much cheaper to replace. Several options are available for this reason. The most expensive in this case may not necessarily be the right choice.

Paul, I had 165,000 on my 92LS before changing the belt and it still looked OK. I made the mistake of not replacing the water pump at the same time though and it seized up and destroyed the belt 30,000 miles later. STRONGLY recommend replacing the belt and both idler pulleys at the same time. Cheap insurance!