Scrub Hunter

ONR will cause marring on your paint surface.

Zaino Z12 will get the stains, it is agressive. Michael Burnikas is right though, first try vinager.

Don't waste time with Jeffs Werkstat, if you do you will see bad streaks that don't come off. Do a search you'll see. For rinseless I use QEW, good stuff.

Werkstat is simply Klasse, and it used to be a great line until the new VOC regs. I'd give Zaino a shot, the best most durable stuff out there! OMG Chemical Guys 5050 is way overpriced, if you are going to spend that much go with Souvern. If you want a wax try Natty's, but seriously go with Zaino it beats everything in looks and durabilty.

Mothers Mag Polish!

Listem Bro, The problem with these is a layer of water that sits in the condensor. Ozone will not get this as a permanant solution regardless of how strong it is. Even if it gets it for a while it will come back if the drain plug is clogged or it has a poor design. You are 100% wrong about the ozone generators, in fact I'd bet money you never tried using a 10000mg unit yourself. I have used 2000, 4000, 6000, and a 20,000 mg unit before. I have also dked around with lesser machines and they don't do anything compared to these machines. 100 to 200 mg an hour in a car will do nothing past slightly refreshing the air. Don't try to win a pizzing contest when you simply don't know what your talking about. This poor guy might go spend 500 plus dollars on an ozone machine when that is not the right thing for this application. Ozone gererators in auto repair are mostly for cabin issues, and should be used after the interior has been cleaned extensively and dried. They will work in vents but yiou need a manifold to be effective.

None of this will solve the issue. Your evap is most likely blocked, and simply needs to be cleaned. For vents you need a 4000 MG per hour to kill the bacteria. Furthermore, for you to get the vents you will need to make a manifold to shoot the ozone directly into the vents, and it should be on a timer so you don't go near it for 30 minutes after it's done. When you get into 6000 miligram per hour machines you start having problems with the machine damaging the internal parts on a car, but 4000 seams to be the perfect combination of killing but keeping the car from being damaged. Anyway, unclog the evap, 99% of the time that's your problem, and when it's unclogged you don't even have to spray anything in there, the SMELL WILL GO AWAY ON IT'S OWN. If you want you can spray some lysol down there but it's not necessary. If your evap becomes a problem it could be because of it's location. I have actually had to move the evap on some cars from the side to the bottom to prevent gathering of moisture. Good luck with it.....

I emailed this to a Amsoil Jobber to see if he knew what you were talking about and his response was this."LOLOLOLOLOLOLOL." He has never even heard of LC and he said AMSOIL is real oil because of years of R&D and millions of dollars in investing in real formulas. I guess it's your opinion that LubeControl has made a better product than AMSOIL with the money they have precharged their customers credit cards on? Lol. your ship is sinking with every post. AMSOIL is a great synthetic oil all by itself.

Bro, Chances are the pully just needs to be tightened. This fixes it 90% of the time.

Show me your proof that LC20 plus Dino oil is better for a motor than a high quality synthetic, lol? It is obviously your position that you think LC20 is a miracle product. If it's such a miracle then why do they need to charge customers credit cards months before they even have a batch, lol? No company with any itegrity would do this. CMon Bro what gives, you are an LubeControl employee?

Oh Common now, you are telling wise tales Bro if your saying that adding LC20 stuff to dirt cheap Dino oil makes it as good as a high quality synthetic. I'm wondering why your posts are so much different than all the others on BITOG. Nobody remotely says that LubeControls LC20 is anything but a mildly helpful additive, and you say it is "miracle" additive that takes Cheap Dino oil and makes it the quality of the highest quality synthetic. Lol, you Bro's in the states have a tongue for some exaggerations. You seam to complain that other people are "pimping" products but it seams like you are going a little overboard here, wouldn't say so? This thread is losing steam quick with wild claims I will leave it at that. There is nothing as good as the high quality synthetics for lubrication and protection for your cars, and time is less of a factor than milage IMO.

Hey Bro, I;m not sure how any of this pertains to how synthetic will break down overtime? See my point now about adding all kinds of extra information about stuff nobody knows about?

Dang Bro, good luck with all this. I wish i could offer some advice but it looks like everything I would have said you already tested it or changed it.

Again, I concur with most of that, change the PCV first and look to see if any injectors are leaking and replace those. I'm pretty sure this will get the smoke but not convinced this will get the oil burning issue. Might be intersting to find out though. Keep us posted.

Have you ran a solvent type cleaner like Lubecontrols FP60, sometimes these things can eat holes around the injector area. Cheaply made products due more harm than good. If your using a solvent type thing you might want to change to something like lucas fuel treatment, which has no solvents but still cleans way better than solvent type products. You might just need to have your injectors cleaned, I'd run Lucas for about three tankfuls and see if it halps. If you insist on using a solvent fuel cleaner it would be good to use one that has the best research and development around it like Chevron Techron. Definetly better than these witches brew type companies that through some solvents together. Also, I hear autoRX or Seafoam will help with engine oil burning, worth a shot. Marevlous Mystery oil is a great well known product, but it will temporarly fix it as opposed to something like Autorx that will supposedly clean the engine well. MMO is cool because you can use it in the gas tank or crank case, but the only thing it is good for is a little lubrication. Change the PCV first before you use an additive, because just like TcK said you might have too much pressure in there. It seams like maybe you have two things going on (again TCK read my mind on this one too), a fuel system issue and an oil burning issue. This might be the most helpful from the above links- http://www.trustmymechanic.com/troubleshoot_smoke.htm

Before replying to this I did some research on your comment that LC20 is better than Autorx. It seamed that most people overthere prefer Autorx hands down. I think I am going to try Seafoam first, then Autorx. But the more I look at LubeControl the more I have no desire to try it. I keep seeing posts where the guy isn't even explaining the benefits of his new product, lol. Once I get my car clean, I will probably just stick with Synthetic.

I guess some of my own ignorance is fueled by so many people being upset about that LC company right now. LubeControl put charges on 100's of peoples credit cards for a product that was supposed to be shipped in mid November but hasn't been shipped to date. A lot of people are complaining about that, and personally I don't think a reputable company would have put charges on credit cards before even having a product ready. Add that to poor results in removing sludge by MANY people, and I'm not sure why anyone would stand by that company personally. My opinon is if you use Synthetic, you probably don't need additives. If the car has seen various quality oil changes and is sludge prone, maybe it would be good to find a reputable sludge product. That's all I'm say there Bud.

I'm not exactly sure why he's in a twist, all that fancy jargon means nothing to me. My main point is that I have two vehicles that get maybe about 1000 miles a year, and they get nothing but Mobil one, and.... Even after three and four years, the oil still appears as if it has just been changed. I don't need an analysis to tell me this is good. My Toyota gets regular changes because it's my daily, but my two other vehicles have 3500 and 4000 miles and multiple years since the last change and they look wonderful.

I went over to Bobtheoilguy and I can't find hardly any posts that say LubeControls LC20 is an effective cleaner. I did however see that the most popular cleaner seams to be Autorx. Do you have any posts over on BITOG that I can lookup? Don't take offense to this Bro but if you think additves are "overpimped" why do you pimp for LC?

I don't really understand much of your post, but in my opinion solvent type products are junk. People pay a premium for a mixture of solvents when they can just get the solvents much cheaper. When using them you clean a lot of junk out of there and it ends up where? That's right in the oil and filter. So if you use Lubecontrols garbage you will just have junk in your oil, and you will pay $$$ for that priviledge. I wanted to look up information on oils and stuff because I am worried about the sludge issue, but I think using a solvent type product is the wrong way to go about it. Just a preference guy, no need to get all bent out of shape about it. Still looking for a easy type cleaner if anyone has any information. I also still stand by my statement that synthetic will not break down becasue of time unless you have a junk substance like LubeControl's LC20.

KYB's are a pretty rough ride but if that's what your looking for go for it.

I was wondering what you guys use to remove Sludge, especially since I have a model tagged as a potential sludge beast. I heard that solvent type products are dangerous so I would prefer to hear about something that works more slowly if possible, I don't want my filter cloggin. Thanks in Advance-

Time wont break down synthetic oils. I know because I put very few miles on my spare vehicles but rarely have to change the oil, even after years. The main thing is to not put junk in there like LubeControl or CD2 type products which are solvents and will degrade the oil. If you have straight synthetic oil, it will last at least 5k miles regardless of the time. I'm talking years not decades as I have no info on this. Hope this was helpful.