Scrub Hunter

Zaino

It's not like the lotto, there is only 50 people regged, not bad odds. That's if he only gives one bottle away, but a little birdy told me he's considering more. Two seconds to reg and ask a question, big deal.

Looks like Frank over at Autorx is having a free giveaway. Get rid of that sludge for free- http://auto-rx.activeboard.com/index.spark...opicID=12072502

Only anal people should buy Toyota's or Lexus. People who aren't super vigilant in maintenance, will end up with major sludge. At a minimum I would run an anti sludge product religiously if I had a Toyo/lex. The funny thing is that the general public still thinks of Toyota and Lexus as being a very reliable car, but in the last decade they are one of the worse. They are very sturdy with well built suspensions, but that's as far as any love I have for the brand anymore. Can you say Sludge Beasts.

If the Republican controlled US goverment says there is a sludge problem with certain Lexus's, I'm going off that personally. I have read more complaints about Lexus and sludge than I care too. They had a design flaw, it's fixed, but that doesn't make it better for the 100,000's of people who are effected by this settlement. If you get the letter or your Lexus falls under the years effected, get it checked.

Sorry Scrappy the TSB information was over used and the company shut down the free link, at this time I can only get Maintenance instructions. Ask Lexus directly they should be able to tell you if there's a TSB.

Seafoam looks good too, but this is a heck of a review about Autorx in my opinion.

I know people who put 90kplus on turbo diesel bypass filters, I've even heard of 120k on a bypass. Don't believe me -check out TDR website, (turbodeiselregistry). One of these links even show 500k miles between oil changes, and that's on heavy trucks. They do oil analysis along the way and it always seams to come back recommending the oil not needing changing yet. To be honest I would do some research on if it's appropiate for your application. I know for a fact it's a very good option for a turbo deisel as I had one, and they are also very good for standard gas motors. The usual problem is finding a place to put it, but if you have that solved I would think it would be appropiate for any application, but that is just an opinion. The main difference in a bypass is having two substancial filters versus one standard filter. Standard filters allowing particles up to 20 microns floating around your oil and bypass reducing that to 1 micron, and as a bonus it makes changing your own oil much easier. The downside is cost of the filters, but if you extend you Drain intervals it more than pays for itself, especially if you use synthetic oil. I know you can find varying oil flow in your bypass filters so if your worried about it just check a heavier flow filter. The question is a personal one for you, do you think perhaps slightly reducing oil pressure is more of a threat than having larger particles in your oil floating around? I'd guess there are also heavy duty oil pumps that would totally ease your mind. http://www.gulfcoastfilters.com/how_do_i_e...utine_oil_c.htm http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_..._67/ai_73410122

I think the key is having a good filter system, like a quality bypass system, then extending your drain intervals is the smart play. 25k miles on a good bypass system with a quality synthetic is the way to go. If everyone did this it would be environmentally friendly and your engines would last longer. The key is removing more contaminants from yuor oil to keep it prestine longer, and that is exactly what a bypass system will do for you. Now if you have a sludge proned engine, that's another thing entirely, but most smart people would suggest that that is even more of a reason to have a bypass. Want a little extra security, run something like Autorx in there in a maintenance dose. Put mobil one in that car by all means, in fact put it in any Lexus and you will be doing yourself a favor. I new someone who excusively use Mobil 1 for 10 plus years and the oil was hardly ever dirty and showed no signs of wear.

They just came out with a gov't forced letter for all those who haven't gotten one yet. I think many T&L owners still have NO CLUE about it.

If I was to use Lucas I'd at least use the full synthetic version. I think some of CD2's stuff is just as good but a lot cheaper.

I likey

I was just scrubbing around the internet and found you bro's, cool site!

Isn't the application of sea foam a pain? I saw guys that were putting it in their gas lines and when they'd start the car about ten buses worth of smoke came out the tailpipes.

I have zero doubt if it can do that to deposits that it would remove sludge. Deposits are by far the hardest thing to remove. What theory would you have to why Autorx can remove deposits like that but not sludge? Also, still wondering if either of you have a test on Seafoam, any link anywhere. I'm not trying to be a jerk, I'd really be interested especially if it has good results like this test.

So you have a better seafoam test posted somewhere? Looks like the guy went to some work testing this, and I'm pretty sure it at least shows Autorx works better than straight oil at getting deposits and keeping them away. I'm an open book, I'd really like some information on Seafoam, it too is a very popular product. Thanks in advance..

Disclaimer: (JAG from BITOG) I am not affiliated or paid by any company to do testing on oils. I do tests out of my own interest. I'm posting this to provide information that I find useful enough that others should know about it. These are the results of high temperature deposit resistance tests that I performed last week on 3 virgin oils: Mobil 1 0W-40 (API SM), Green GC, and a mix of 5% Auto-RX and 95% Mobil 1 0W-40 (from same bottle as in other sample). This ratio of Auto-RX to motor oil was chosen to be similar to what is used during the cleaning phase of an Auto-RX treatment. I put 2.00 grams of each oil into separate anodized aluminum cups along with one clean, uncorroded penny per cup. I then placed the cups on an upside down clothes iron that gets the oil temps to 330F (measured with a thermocouple). I weighed the cups before the test and after each hour to get volatility data. I took pictures of the pennies still in their oil cups to show the onset and progression of deposits. This test ran for 9 hours. In the pictures below, you'll see "M", "MA", and "C" written next to the cups or the pennies. "M" is M1 0W-40, "MA" is the Auto-RX / M1 mix, and "C" is Green GC. The penny in the M1 0W-40 cup started getting deposits between 2.5 and 3 hrs. The deposits got worse and worse as hours passed. The Auto-RX / M1 0W-40 mix didn't start to form deposits on its penny until between 4.5 and 5 hours. As more time went on, the deposits on the M1 0W-40 penny formed at a much faster rate than those on the Auto-RX mix penny. The Green GC penny did not show any deposits until between 7.5 and 8 hours. The pictures below show the pennies at various stages of the tests to show the onset and growth of deposits of each penny. After 9 hours of testing, the pennies were removed and cleaned with soap and water to prepare them for very good photographs and a closer look. The M1 0W-40 penny is completely covered in a tough, crusty (hard) layer of deposits. Under 10x magnification, it looked nasty and showed that the deposits are like thousands of little spheres piled on top of each other and vary in color from grey to black. The color of the deposits on the Auto-RX / M1 mix penny are somewhat different than those on the other two pennies, possibly indicating that they are composed of different chemical species. As noted already, it had a different (slow) growth pattern as well. Interestingly, the anodized aluminum cups themselves did not have any deposits, not even varnish so the copper on the pennies must have acted as a catalyst for some kind of reaction (scientists know that it's an oxidation catalyst for oils). There is copper in engines so deposits on the copper in these tests are not irrelevant. The iron, aluminum, and lead in engines actually make the catalyst effect even stronger. However, these tests are not designed to accurately simulate oil aging in an engine. I also noted the oil odor. The M1 0W-40 got a foul odor early in the test...first observed after only one hour. Green GC did not smell foul until after 6 hours. The odor comes from the reaction products of the oil so it's a sign of thermal degradation. By the end of the test at 9 hours, M1 smelled quite horrible while Green GC smelled mild and like burnt corn. At 9 hours, the Auto-RX / M1 mix smelled less foul than the pure M1 0W-40 did but more foul than GC did. This finding suggests that perhaps Auto-RX's esters slowed down the thermal and oxidative degradation of M1 0W-40. Anyhow, this theorizing doesn't matter as the deposit results are what really count. As previously stated, volatility data was collected and as I expected from past tests, M1 0W-40 was considerably more volatile than GC. After 4 hours, M1 lost 0.165 grams while GC lost 0.105 grams. Auto-RX had essentially no effect on the volatility of M1 0W-40 as the Auto-RX / M1 mix lost 0.160 grams to evaporation in 4 hours. Volatility trends in later hours were the same as in the first 4 hours. Summary: Green GC showed much better high temperature deposit resistance on copper than M1 0W-40. It is significantly less volatile as well. Adding 5% Auto-RX significantly reduced the onset of high temperature deposits of M1 0W-40 and greatly slowed the rate of deposit deposition once they started. Auto-RX had essentially no effect on the volatility of M1 0W-40. The inventor of Auto-RX was not aware that Auto-RX would have this benefit for preventing high temperature deposits. He was aware that it can clean up dirty piston rings, but these findings indicate it likely has the ability to keep relatively clean piston rings even cleaner compared to using pure motor oil. That is, it may benefit piston rings in new engines as well as engines with some life on them. Turbocharger deposits are another high temperature area that Auto-RX can likely help based on these results. Future testing will likely be designed to determine the effect of Auto-RX on Green GC's high temperature deposit resistance as well as determine how effective smaller dosages of Auto-RX are. Additionally, adding iron and aluminum metal pieces to the copper in the oil is planned to add additional catalysts. Below are the links to the pictures along with a description (time and anything noteworthy) for each picture. 3 hours - onset of M1 penny deposits http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h294/groftja/3hrs.jpg 4 hours - M1 penny deposits grew considerably http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h294/groftja/4hrs.jpg 5 hours - onset of "MA" penny deposits http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h294/groftja/5hrs.jpg 8 hours http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h294/groftja/8hrs.jpg 8hrs - close-up of GC (onset of deposits) and "MA" penny http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h294/gro...hrs-closeup.jpg 9 hours - close-up of GC penny http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h294/gro...hrs-closeup.jpg 9 hours - degreased pennies http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h294/gro.../DSC01986-a.jpg The test showed that AutoRX was really effective and preventing deposits even in a synthetic oil. The test didn't show ARX in the GC but if it did I'm pretty sure it would have made that oil more effective too. I think I found a winner.

Hey Bro, there is a recall that came out in the beggining of last year on the air conditioning sensor. It's cool that Lexus recalls a 94 in the very end of 2004 if there's a problem. Anyhow, might want to run it by the dealer.

Because of my proffession I have access to all the service bullitens, recalls and wiring diagrams for all Lexus's, or any other car make for that matter. If you guys need something like this just PM me year make model and I will respond with the information for no charge. I can even get TSB's for no charge too. I just want to share information as I've learned a bunch of stuff from reading this site.

???? = questions. Also you do not post facts or state what you do. You use everyone else posts. I find it funny you cannot answer the simple questions I asked above. That to me tell me you are full of it, bigtime. I take a breath everyone in all my 1,363 posts. Plus I state my use and facts in my Lexus; now you on the other hand.....nope. PS. Please think about what you post, any data to support your post (YOUR FINDS on YOUR use) and maybe this thread will go somewhere. Also leave the BITOG thread babbies crying over there. Case-in-point, Synthetic oil breaks down period. If you want any oil to get way better wears number use LC20. I am sure they are other adds but this is what worked great in my car while using Amsoil ASL oil. ***EDIT**** Here was my last Amsoil test using your "junk" LC20 with your beloved Amsoil. Is Amsoil good, yes but it could be way better. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...29485&st=15 Take some metamucill, your all blocked up. Your pimping of LC20 makes me think you are a stock holder in the company or something, lol. Sythetic oil breaks down yes, more because of heat cycles and metal were as opposed to time. Adding a 20 weight solvent oil additive will not extend the life of your synthetic oil, if you can't see that is common sense than I have nothing for you. Keep on pimping your stuff it's ok, but I hope some Lexus owners see through it.

Listen here Michael what's with the ???? Just take a deep breath before posting we will have have more harmony.

Try Lucas UCL fuel system cleaner, get a tuneup, make sure tires are at proper pressure, and consider some kind of oil cleaner like Autorx or Seafoam. Two things that can mess with milage are bad injectors and clogged fuel filter. Honorable mention would be check your PCV to make sure it's funcional and make sure your valve covers are releasing pressure.

You funny guy, you use Terry to try and besmurge a great oil company but when the guy is mad becasue the owner of LCD corp is illiegally using his name for marketing purposes he lets him know about it. You work for LCD or what? You back them no matter what, I wish I had a wife like you, lol. So lets sum up lubecontrol, they prebill peoples credit catds and don't send product for more than three months, the guy who you recommended I look up is mad at them for illegal use of his name, they don't know the benefits or applivations of their own products, well I could keep going on for pages but lets just say if you are going to put an additive in a high quality oil my recommendation is to go with a established big company product instead of a dink company like LubeControl LC20. Better yet, just use you synthetic with no additives and use your money for something more useful, like an education in Mburn's or should I say BrianW's case. :P

Lol, since you asked about Terry from Dyson here is what he has to say about LCD corp (LC20 and FP60). "Jeff (LCD Corp), DO NOT publicly use my name or imply I have anything to do with working for or marketing for LCD without express permission before you do. I no longer consult for you nor do I authorize you to use my name or business name to promote or market for LCD. - Terry Um Opps. Terry from Dyson is not liking what is going on over down there at LubeControl. Maybe LCD didn't pay him like they did to BITOG last month. At least a few people are starting to get their pre-orders three months later. :chairshot:

I use PB Wheel cleaner. Just spray on wait and rinse. If you use that on an expensive car your crazy, it will eat you paint if you make a mistake, and worse of all it is the most dangerous chemical used in detailing and in fact has killed many children. I would never recommend something like this! Not worth it IMO. Furthermore, Poorboys has such bad quality control they often put this junk in their other stuff by mistake, lol. That's what happens when you don't make your own products and just relabel cheap brands! http://autopia.org/forum/car-detailing/734...eaner+dangerous http://www.detailcity.org/forums/detailing...ght=spray+rinse http://www.carwash.com/article.asp?IndexID=6631269