Jump to content

MistaG

Regular Member
  • Posts

    22
  • Joined

  • Last visited

MistaG's Achievements

Enthusiast

Enthusiast (6/14)

  • Conversation Starter
  • First Post
  • Collaborator Rare
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. No my engine light is not on. The car is not running rich at all. It has a steady Idle at about 600 rpm. She just feels like she is starving for fuel when I really step on her. Whether it be from a full stop or stepping on it on the highway.
  2. I have been getting this horrible hestation lately that happens both every time I step on the Gas from a complete stop or when I Go to pass someone on the Highway. From a complete stop it bogs down so severly to the point where I almost think the engine is going to die out. I sounds sort of like a brrrrrpppppp ing sound. If I play with the pedal enough it goes away. Usually be letting off of it. I thought it was a fuel injector problem because I once bought 30 dollars worth of different cleaners like Slick 50, and a few others and put it into my almost empty tank. And for that whole tank full the Hesistation almost entirely disappeared. But now it seems even worse. Please Help. I have read so many posts about this hestation problem but no one seems to have the definite answer. :cries: <_<
  3. Mike, Did you ever get your injectors cleaned? Is so, how would you rate the service. I am about to send mine. Please let me know
  4. skperf. I have had my ls for about seven years now. I am going to keep her until she dies. I went from a novice to an avid DIY'er through this site and I plan on blocking off all heat sources to the Air filter just to see how she feels. If I dont like it I will put her back to her OEM status. I research everything though. Thoroughly. Thanks for the heads up though.
  5. Can anybody point me in the right direction? I own a 1990 LS400 and am looking to by an the adaptor to attach an aftermarket K&n filter to the Mass Air Flow Sensor. I have looked up and down and no luck. Thanks ahead for any suggestions. G
  6. Denny, Fisrt of all thanks for the compliments. I love all the advice I get here and it feels good to finally get to help someone else out. Ok, as far as the pins are concerned it works like this. The rubber piece I highlighted holds a long stainless steel pin inside. Just pull on it after you unscrew the caliper. The pin I am talking about is hollow inside with grooves and actually houses the screw that holds the caliper together. Just pull it out slowly making sure not to rip the rubber lip. The two pins of mine that were dirty and stuck were tough to take out at first due to the many years of dry crud keeping them from sliding freely. Another thing. Make sure not to iverdue it with the grease so that you do not create air pockets when re-inserting the pin. You will be able to tell if there is air inside because the rubber lip will expand when you put the pin back. Well I hope that answers your question Benny.. Let me know how it worked out for you James... G
  7. LS400 brakes are so easy. I was told my calipers were sticking as well. The four hundred dollar job they estimated cost me a little over forty dollars. The Calipers themselves have two pins that are covered in a rippled rubber piece. Underneath that rubber piece is usually thick grease that keeps them sliding easily. I found that 2 of the total 8 pins in my 1990 ls400 were dried out and full of crud. THe trusty mechs at the hobby shop explained that those pins slide in and out when you release and step on the brakes. So when they dry out they do not completely release. When they do not release they cause the brake pads to stick more on one than the other against your rotor, and that causes a sticking caliper. I pulled the pins out. cleaned the insides out with a round- ended wire brush. Cleaned the pin itlself and then added a pretty good coat of grease and re-inserted them into the holes. Before all of this I had personally had to cut my rotors a total of three times in less than a year because I kept getting the same pedal vibrating and warping rotors. Ever since I did the pin cleaning and re greasing my brakes have never felt better. I am going to look for pictures to add to this to show you exactly what I am talking about. The pins are inside the rubber pieces that I highlighted in blue in the picture I hope this helps out... Regards, G
  8. Gentlemen, I have been experiencing the exact same issues with my 1990 LS400. Please let me know if anyone has come up with the solution to the issue. As soon as I am idling my power steering becomes as hard as a rock. But as soon as I even slightly acellerate. It goes back to being soft again. I am sincerely looking for an answer to this one.
  9. Gentlemen, I have been experiencing the exact same issues with my 1990 LS400. Please let me know if anyone has come up with the solution to the issue. As soon as I am idling my power steering becomes as hard as a rock. But as soon as I even slightly acellerate. It goes back to being soft again. I am sincerely looking for an answer to this one.
  10. Alright, finally a post I can answer. Check it out. Underneath the wood grain panel of your shifter there in lies your shifter mechanism right. Well right underneath that button you press to release the shifter when it is stuck, there is a white plastic piece the buttin hits to release your shifter. That little white plastic piece is connected electronically to your brake line so that when you press your brake it sends a signal to release the shifter button to get out of park. In my car, my little sister dropped some Pepsi out of the cup holder and all over the shifter. What happened after was that is soaked through and got that little plastic piece all sticky and the same thing started happening to my car. I couldnt get it out of park without a a battle with both the shifter button and the little rectangulat black shift release button. What to do to avoid a hefty bill to clean the whole thing is to remove the wooden panel and expose the white platic doohicky and first off, wipe it off with a damp to moist cloth the simply spray a little dura lube of w/d 40 in and around the plastic piece. That is exactly what I did and I solved my problem over three months ago. Granted, it took a little do it yourself work to finally get to the little plastic piece. First you must remove the wood grain board. Then the plastic piece that surrounds the actual shifter comes up and you have to hold it up. Underneath that you will find it... Hope this helps ~Ray~
  11. Folks, I too want to thank all of you for your pricless advice, you have saved me lots of money and showed me many ways to get to know my car inside and out. Merry Christmas and may God Bless all your families..
  12. and you dont have to use orange bulbs. Orange bulbs do come with the set though. And depending where you live you should probably use the orange ones to avoid any "unwanted" attention.
  13. Well, Its been about three month that I had a tune up in which I had the spark plugs and wires changed, I am always on top of the air filter and I always put premium fuel into her. Now I will admit that for a while there about two years ago I had spent a good time putting in special unleaded as oppossed to premium, but that was before I knew any better. But if you think it may be the plugs or wires, then why did the problem go away so fast ever since I put in the octane booster and fuel additives? She purrs like a kitten now and now stuttering whatsoever. She would also slightly misfire every now and then when I would be stopped at a stoplight for example. That too is now gone. I just have this strong feeling that a twenty dollar fix will not last that long. So what else could it be?
  14. Ok, Check this out, I have been experiencing a stuttering effect in my 1990 ls whenever I moderately accelerate. In other words, everytime I am cruising at about 1600 to 1700 rpms and I press down on the pedal to upshift, I get this stuttering effect that will remain stuttering for about five seconds before it kicks into gear and drives normally again. The problem is that although my rpms go up my speed basically remains the same. Now if I open up full throttle it goes away but I am sure that constantly opening up full throttle is not good for my pearl. I waited for my tank to nearly empty and bought two octane boosters and a few bottles of fuel system cleaner. then I put in about 10 dollars worth of premium fuel. Which I always use. And vuallla... THe problem is gone but I know it is a short term fix. So could someone please tell me what issue it is that my Pearl is experiencing and what service do I need to have done to keep her purring like she is now. Thanks So Much in advance for any input you can provide..
  15. I hear it especially for example, I am in the military and when I stop at the gate to check in my car is enclosed on both sides by walls and when initially take off under and minor to moderate acceleration I hear this rattling coming from underneath the car. I cannot hear it during Idling and I can only hear it at slow speeds... What so you think?
×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership