branshew

You're missing the point that the resistors have to be matched to the LEDs, not just what that guy used on his site. Unless your LEDs match his exactly, then you could use the same resistors. Otherwise use the formula that he gives and calculate the correct Ohm rating.

Sounds like you're almost there. As to the oil in your previous posts, it could be the PS pump as advised, or it could just be residual from oil changes. The filter is in the worst position on that engine (for both access and oil drainage/spillage) and I make a mess every time I put in a new filter. Some of what you see could be from that.

Kyle it sounds like you may be getting in a bit over your head here. You still have a lot of important questions to answer before you go jumping in up to your neck. Slow down so you can get it right the first time. First thing I’d do would be to get a 2nd set of used projectors to use as your guinea pig. You don’t need to go and ruin your original lamps if this does not work out right. This will also give you ample time to experiment and find the best solution to install the AEs so you are not rushed to get it all done in a day. If this works out OK, then you can sell your original lamps on eBay and get your money back (or mod the other set as well and sell them for a little more.) Keep in mind too that you are going to need to mod the housing on the lamps to allow for the extra set of wires to enter it. You are going to want to make the housing water tight after the fact as well so seal up the new holes tightly. I would make a double set of AEs to go around the high and low beams while you’re doing it. You may as well do it right the first time. I don’t know enough about it, but 300 degrees sounds too hot to me. You may want to check into the temperature thing. I also don’t know about “scraping of the red”. I think that will just mess them up on the inside. As to the electrical part, I would wire the AEs to the battery and use a separate switch installed somewhere on the dash or steering column cover. Switches can be had online or at Radio Shack. That way you can control the AEs separate of the headlamps. It looks cooler when just the AEs are on in the daytime/dusk when you don’t need headlights. Also make sure you get the correct resistors for the LEDs. If you get the wrong ones, the light won’t be as bright (too much resistance), or the LEDs will burn out much sooner than they should (not enough resistance) and you’ll have to take the headlights apart again to replace them.

Personally, I would advise against it as well. I have read many posts on other luxury/performance car sites that I frequent from time to time for my Benz. Many people on the other forums have said that it will eventually affect your MAF sensor. Mercedes Benz had some problems with their MAF sensors on their C Class models for a while and Most people that I encountered w/ K&N filters on their C had their MAF sensors die out much faster than should be expected. Although the sensor in your Lexus is probably more reliable than the Mercedes version, I wouldn't risk it. You really won't notice much (if any) difference in the overall performance by just changing the air filter. If you were going with a bunch of performance mods and really wanted to increase airflow, then it would be a different story.

Your CPO warranty should cover everything you listed save the potential alignment (however you may be able to argue that the car's alignment should have been tested before it was sold). That aside, I thought ALL Lexus dealers had to honor warranty work on any Lexus purchased anywhere (regardless of new or CPO). Otherwise what is the point? If dealers can pick and choose which warranty repairs to honor and from what dealer, then the concept of CPO program and new warranty coverage in general is totally shot. I agree w/ SW03ES in that the dealership should have been kissing your @$$ to get your service. If they prove themselves w/ quality service, then why wouldn't you buy your next car from them? I've also heard various things about the loaner, but you should be given one regardless of where you bought your car, especially considering that it is under warranty. My local dealership would always offer me a loaner, even though I didn't buy from them, nor was I under coverage. This changed later so that warranty coverage issues were given first choice on loaners. All others were on a first come first serve basis, but I was almost always able to get a loaner. Besides that, the loaner program is the best way to move customers into the next generation models. It's basically free advertising and an all day test drive.

I think you read my post completely wrong! I was making no attempt to cost justify his options. Most people look at buying new or late model used when comparing to a lease. Why would the concept of buying a 10 year old car ever come into play with the option of leasing a new car? I wasn't looking at leasing as an option at all, just trying to help him in the decision to buy (which it seems like he had already made up his mind to do). I don't know what type of mileage he's looking at buying, but I believe it was @100K from his original post not 120K as you stated. I've seen many well maintained cars that go to 200K + (esp. Japanese). I'm not sure where the $8,000 came from, but nothing around here goes for that much. I wouldn't pay anything over $6800 for a 95-96 unless it had under 75K and all receipts. Regardless... This guy is a mechanic so I am also assuming that his cost of repairs will be lower than average since labor is "free." I would also assume that he maintains his cars well in order to keep them running. After 3 years, he could be $12000 into a $300/month lease (including cash down up front) with nothing to show after that. If he gets a good deal on the Lexus at $7000 and puts $3000 in repairs into it, then he still comes out ahead. (as you mentioned though you never know w/ used.) At this point I would guess that he is going to drive the car into the ground and is probably not looking at resale value at the end of 3 years. However, if he does try to resell it later, he will at least have something left (even if it's only $500) and that is more than you have at the end of a lease which is nothing.

...from the guy on eBay? He is selling the CD ROM for around $15. I was just wondering if the info on the CD is the same as the print version of the factory repair manuals that go for $120+

BTW, I am running 19" & 21" blades on mine with no problems. See what happens after you make the adjustment and you should be able to get the originals back on there.

Are you talking about the under $20 one on eBay? If so, it has screw threads that run horizontal for the connection between the mountings and the bar itself (which makes the functionality basically non-existant). It is also completely flimsy and a total POS.

As long as you know what you are getting into when you buy a used car, then you shouldn't have too many problems. People that buy a 10 year old car should expect to have some issues, regardless of the make/model - even a Lexus. As a Porsche mechanic I'm sure you know all about that. Regardless, I have two friends with early modes ES 300s that have over 200K and are still running fine. My '95 ES 300 is approaching 120K and is still in excllent condition (but I maintain it well to keep it that way). If you are interested in an early model, then go for a '95 or'96. There were some subtle changes on the '95 that carried through the '96 run. Plus, these are the last 2 production years of this model so Toyota should have the bugs worked out by then. To my knowledge, there are no major mechanical issues to look out for save the usual wear and tear items that one would expect to replace eventually on a 8-10 year old car. Find one from down south (no rust) with one or two owners and a clean Carfax report and you should be OK. Shoot for under 100K if you can. There are still some out there with under 75K to be had, but you'll pay a little more.

If the alignment is off and you are in the "Summer" position the arms need to be re-adjusted. Loosen the nuts that hold the arms in place. Set each arm at its proper level position on the base of the windshield. Tighten the nuts again and you should be good to go. Just make sure the bolts are nice and tight (w/o being over tightened) in order to prevent them from coming loose while you are using them.

I've been researching this one for a while as I am trying to get rid of the infamous "noise" that comes from the rear suspension that many 1st Gen ES300 users suffer from. My mechanic is convinced that a new set of struts will solve the problem. Personally, I think it is something more involved, but he and I have reached an agreement that if the noise does not go away with new struts, then he will find and fix the problem at his expense until it is corrected. (His expense being that I will not have to pay for any aditional labor outside of the strut installation - parts at his cost if needed.) Besides the noise, I have also noticed in the last week that the rear feels rather spongy and bounces more than it used to so I think I would have been in the market for struts either way. Now, that aside... Since the car is going on 10 years old and this is the 1st suspension job since it left the factory, should I go ahead and replace the strut mounts while I am doing it? My gut says yes and that it wouldn't hurt since they'll already be in there for the struts and that the old ones are pushing 10 years.

Personally, I would keep the '95 ES300 and sell the Camry. My Dad just bought my college bound sister a '98 Camry w/ 50K on it. I drove it home from the auction for him and there was <b>NO</b> comparison to the ride quality and feel of the ES. Many of the technologies/amenities/etc. on the '95 Lexus didn't show up in the Toyota Camry until 1998 or after. The interior is nicer and more quiet, the ride quality and styling is better on the ES. As to the repairs, find a reliable independent mechanic and let him make all of the repairs. There's no need to take a car that is almost 10 years old to the dealership to fix basic problems. (That's why you paid too much for the O2 sensor.) This goes for any make (save a superluxury or Italian ride). The ES is only slightly more expensive to maintain than the Camry, and with its reliability you shouldn't have to make too many repairs anyway. Brakes are easy and just about anyone can do them. Squeaking is not necessarily an indication of a cheap pad. Different mfgs. use different compounds in their pads, & some tend to squeak more on certain cars. If it is your CV boot, then it should be replaced, but do it soon before the whole axle needs to be done. My $.02 is to keep the Lexus and sell the Camry. Besides, you'll never be able to sell the Lexus anywhere near market value unless you make the repair to fix the grinding noise. At that point you will have already put the money into the Lexus. Use the proceeds from the Camry to make any other necessary repairs to the Lexus and keep driving it. With only 32K on it it should run for at least another 100K w/ no major problems. (I have 120K on my '95 ES300 and it still runs like the day I bought it.)

I agree with the others - the '97-'01 is the best. I have a '95 and I love it, but if you go too far back then you'll have to deal with problems of age more than anything else. My Mom has a '97 and it is very nice. Mine is holding up great, but that is because I maintain it to a very high standard and make preventative repairs as well as regular repairs and all scheduled maintenance. The '92-'96 have the ride feel of a larger car (more like the LS). I like the body style (esp. the front profile). The '97-'01 is more sporty in its styling and ride. Lexus fixed a few of the quirks from the earlier model in this generation. I don't really care for the most recent generation at all (but that's just my opinion). It feels more like a larger car (sluggish and loose) and I don't care for the styling as much as previous models. One warning is that if you buy a Luxury car, then you need to expect that it will cost more to maintain it than it would a regular Camry. Even if you don't go to the dealership the repair bills can still add up (when something breaks). The benefit of the Lexus though is its reliability so you will be better off than buying a used European car. Also keep in mind that you will still probably want or need to spend @ $1200 +/- after you buy it to get it in a condition where you want it depending on previous history and mileage. If you don't know the history and if the mileage is right, then, you will probally need a timing belt, complete fluid change, belts, tune up, maybe an extra key, etc. - Just some things to keep in mind.

Not all cars have a delay. I had a '00 Volvo V70 XC with a drive by wire or electronic throttle control. When I stepped onthe gas, it went into action immediately. I never experienced any noticable delay in accelleration on this car as I have with the few ES 330's that I have had as loaners. Unfortunately, the throttle control module went bad at 55K miles (where a cable could last indefinitely). It caused the car to speed up and slow down randomly with no input from the pedal (fairly dangerous in some situations as you can imagine). Personally I didn't think that I should have to replace something like this at just over 50K, but my warranty was up and Volvo of North America was completely unwilling to do anything about it. It wasn't cheap either. P&L came to just over $1K. Volvo's total lack of response to a problem this serious, and the poor support and service from Phillips Volvo are what led me to sell it.

Try this one. It has the Bilsteins listed for the ES. Auto Parts Authority '95 ES 300 Strut Assembly

Actually he said that he had one of his techs gas it up to 55 on the lift while he was listening. I'm still leaning towards the suspension since it doesn't make noise while I turn. (plus the other symptoms).

I found this site below and one other that have the same set of Bilsteins on there. http://www2.autopartsauthority.com/parts/a...mbly&category=L Maybe it's a typo and they are referring to the GS300 since there was a touring version of that car made.

I have recently developed a noise on the front driver's side wheel area. It sounds like I am riding on truck tires with a knobby tread. It feels like a road vibration that is being amplified as it travels through the components in the front end on the driver's side. The noise is there and prevalent between 40 MPH and 60 MPH. Above and below those speeds I don't notice it. It is there when I am driving straight and when I turn. The sound seems to go away for a split second when I go over an uneven spot in the road where the suspension drops a little. In other words it goes away when the front end is not weighing heavily on the suspension. After the uneven spot in the road, the noise comes back. I have had my front driver side wheel bearing replaced recently. I have taken it back to the same mechanic that has closely examined it while driving it. While on the lift he used a sound probe/auto stethescope to listen to the wheel bearing, transmission, etc. He has carefully checked the CV and all associated drive train parts and none of them are the cause of the noise. He has examined the suspension and found nothing visually wrong as well as assured me that all of the associated nuts & bolts were tight. I have also rotated my tires (after the noise appearred) and that has not solved the problem (tires are NOT unidirectional.) My mechanic is good and I trust his judgement. He has taken great care of me in the past. He dosen't want to go tearing things apart since he feels that there is no safety risk, but the noise is irritating me. Given that the noise does not happen when the car is not riding heavily on the suspension or while on the lift, I think it is the problem is in the suspension. Before I replace the strut assemblies up front, does anyone have any ideas?

You're probably right, but what's the difference? KYB makes the OEM struts that I have seen, but Bilstein makes the "Touring Class" strut. The Bilstein is cheaper than the KYB (don't know if that makes a difference or not).

I find that the 1MZ engine is kind of "whiny" in and of itself under normal driving conditions. I notice that the high pitch whine increases as I accelerate, but I have always taken it as part of the background engine noise. I think it is easier to hear if the windows are down and if you are driving slower. It normally is drowned out by road noise. Driving by a barrier or other object (hedges, etc) that can reflect the sound back towards the car makes the sound more prevalent as well. I would usually describe a PS problem as more of a squeal than a whine and it is usually much louder than the whiny noise. (i.e. you definitely know that something is wrong.) PS pump/fluid problems usually make a noise when you turn and not just driving straight. If the whining or squealing increases under acceleration, I wouldn't say that points to the PS pump unless you happen to always be turning when you hear the noise.

I have been searching online for some prices for front and rear replacement strut assemblies for my '95 ES300. I have come across several different websites that feature a "Touring Class" replacement strut. However, this strut is for the rear only. I was unaware that Lexus made a Touring model for the ES300 (similar to the Infiniti I30t?) Is this a real model? Are these shocks any different than the regular ones as far as performance (I would assume a bit stiffer?)

Actually I beg to differ. I have used Comet and a nice natural bristle brush on my alloy rims for years to remove tough stains/deposits. To date I haven't had any problems with removing the clearcoat or damaging the aluminum. It is not as abrasive as most people think it is. It is actially safe to us on many plastics and synthetic compounds as well. Always test a small spot first, don't use it every time you clean your wheels, and don't grind it in and you'll be OK. I was referring to the Simple Green Automotive cleaner and/or wheel cleaner foam, not the regular Simple Green. (Sorry I should have clarified that b/c there is a difference.) The automotive cleaner will not stain or etch your alloy wheels, but the alkalinity in the regular version may harm them if left on for more than 10 Min. A direct quote form their webste: "As part of our Pro Series line of automotive products, Pro Series Simple Green Wheel Cleaner Foam is a specialized formula that effectively cleans all types of wheels - including alloy / aluminum - without harming the surface or the user. It removes brake dust, grease, oil, bugs, road grime and much more!" As I mentioned before, Simple Green is non-toxic and biodegradeable and not another harsh cleaner like ammonia or TSP. I prefer to do the environmentally friendly thing whenever possible since my rinsewater ends up in the storm drains that feed into the Chesapeake Bay.

I find that "Simple Green" works reather well on brake dust. Spray it on the wheels, then wash your car, and then come back and clean the tires and rims. Feel free to spray it on heavily since it is biodegradable and non-toxic. "Comet" w/ a hard plastic bristle brush works as well. You may also want to try "Blue Magic" metal polish. It works great on alloy and chrome wheels and helps get rid of some of the spotting. It also Waxes as it polishes to protect the rims from future dust buildup.

I don't know what is about the Dallas Ft. Worth area, but you guys do have some great deals on luxury cars down there. All of the eBay cars that I see that are worth a darn are from there. Must be alot of rich people in the area. I fond that if you just look around long enough, the right deal comes along. Just don't ever be in a hurry to buy a car (especially used) or you'll get hosed.