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steve2006

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Posts posted by steve2006

  1. Hi and welcome to the LOC.

    First thing to do is pull the diagnostic codes and with the 91 LS all you need is a piece of wire and the ability to read some simple instuctions shown in the link below.

    Once you have the code(s) for the tranmission come back with them and we can go from there.

    Shift problems can be down to sticky solenoids was the car stood for some time before you purchased it?

    http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html

  2. You "washed" your engine! What came over you? Why did it need washing?

    So you now have water in all the engine covers over the plug wires,all over the distributors,all over the coils in fact everyting electrical.

    If the cat is g;owing red you have unburnt gas going into it.

    Start with drying out the engine, get some compressed air in there and try to remove as much water as possible, then get a hair dryer in there and continue drying with a little luck it may be enough to get the engine running correctly again.

  3. Also check your outside temperature sensor I believe it is mounted somewhere behind the front headlight on the passenger side, they are a bit exposed to the elements and have been known on earlier models to even fall off the mounting or become clogged with debris, if this gives a false reading it will affect the AC temperature, moving will increase the airflow on it so may explain why it is just playing up when stationary

  4. Have you pulled the fault codes?

    What has led you to think the ECU is faulty?

    Did you measure the fuel pressure before replacing the pump?

    Random guesswork is the most expensive way to repair a car.

    Start with the most obvious causes, clean the AFM and TB then go from there.

  5. If it aint leaking it's going somewhere, have you checked the valve on the pump which connects to the inlet manifold?

    Common problem is it fails and PS fluid gets sucked into the engine and burnt, normal telltale signs are white smoke from the exhaust particularly on a cold start.

    The other problem is a failed O ring on the reservoir that then leaks fluid onto the alternator below, difficult to see without some stripping down, left too long and it takes out the alternator.

  6. Remove the fuel pipe from the fuel rail,it's a banjo union.

    Place the fuel pipe into a suitable container.

    Open the engine bay diagnostic port and connect two wires to the +B terminal and the FP terminals (use single core wire just push into the terminals and make them 3 feet long each)

    Hold the 2 wires together away from the car to avoid sparks near the container.

    The fuel pump will then run and pump the bad gas into the container, keep an eye on the container so it doesn't overflow and empty as required.

    Keep doing this until the tank is emptied.

  7. I would recheck all what you have done before going any further, apparently it is possible to fit the rotors 180 degrees out so check these 1st.

    Have you also checked for spark at both coil leads, pull them out of the distributor caps hold it a few millimeters from the block with insulated grips and get some one to crank the engine, if you get a spark look at those rotors again.

  8. Have you moved the front seats recently Billy? I ask because there have been cases where seats are left in the same position for years and then suddenly are moved for say another driver and the plugs and sockets below the seat can become intermittent after movement.

    Another cause is poor electrical contacts in the steering wheel air bag circuit.

    You could also read the SRS fault codes to see if anything flags up.

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