steve2006

Exhaust leaks are common on the cat flanges, Y pipe and EGR pipe.

As far as I know the Y pipe is Lexus only but you can get catback custom stainless steel systems.

The EGR pipe normally fractures at the concertina section and although it can be welded it is better to replace it, bit of a job to do though.

If the EGR pipe has fractured check for worn motor mounts as it has been suggested these may cause the problem.

Hello and welcome to the LOC.

If your LS is pre October 1994 ( the shift lever just moves backwards and forwards) the code pull proceedure is in the link below. This should help diagnose the problem.

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html

You seem to have one wrench (spanner in the UK) I think it is 10/12mm and a reversible flatblade/crosshead screwdriver missing, surprising as in most cases it is the flashlight which is the first to disappear.

You will probably also find the memory seat doesn't work either, the seat and the steering wheel need to be reset. Adjust both the seat position and the steering wheel to your required positions, then on the driver's door panel press and hold SET until you hit the bleep then press either memory 1 or 2 to store the positions.

Try the link.

http://www.ls400.ru/lexus-89-2000/index.html

It's only 5mm so should be a staright fit.

Google "Lexus LS400 glove box removal" and click on the 1st listing.

The car uses "Drive by Wire" technology so relies on various inputs from various sources to know where the throttle pedal is and how open or closed the throttle butterfly is.

The motor controls the throttle butterfly opening and closing so if an input to the ECU is missing or incorrect the motor may as you describe be randomly moving trying to find the correct position.

The main input as I mentioned is the Accelerator/Throttle pedal position sensor, if this is defective or misadjusted it may well cause the problem.

Reading a fault code should only be taken as a guide to assist fault finding, it is not an exact science so good old fashioned checks with a multimeter need to be done also when investigating.

If your mechanic has the correct diagnostic equipment he should be able to locate the exact problem but the information below should help with the throttle motor,TPS and pedal sensor.

The code suggests a conflict of information between the 3 components, I would start with the Pedal sensor as they have been known to fail on other vehicles.

Sorry about the layout below it was the way it pasted.

3. INSPECT THROTTLE CONTROL MOTOR w/ CLUTCH

(a) Disconnect the throttle control motor w/ clutch connector. ( B) Using an ohmmeter, measure the motor resistance be-

tween terminal 1 (M+) and 2 (M–).

Motor resistance: 0.3 – 100 Ω at 20°C (68°F) If the resistance is not as specified, replace the throttle control motor w/ clutch. (See page SF–43) © Using an ohmmeter, measure the clutch resistance be-

tween terminal 3 (CL–) and 4 (CL+).

Clutch resistance: 4.2 – 5.2 Ω at 20°C (68°F) If the resistance is not as specified, replace the throttle control motor w/ clutch. (See page SF–43) (d) Reconnect the throttle control motor connector.

4. INSPECT THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR

(a) Disconnect the throttle position sensor connector. ( B) Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between ter-

minals VC and E2.

Resistance: 1.25 – 2.35 kΩ at 20°C (68°F) If the resistance is not as specified, replace the throttle position sensor. (See page SF–43) © Reconnect the throttle position sensor connector.

1

3

4

Ohmmeter

VC

E2

Ohmmeter

B01727

2000 LEXUS LS400

(RM717U)

Author��: Date��: 1353SF–38

SFI – THROTTLE BODY

Ohmmeter

VC

E2

B01728

5. INSPECT ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION SEN- SOR

(a) Disconnect the accelerator position sensor connector. ( B) Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between ter-

minals VC and E2.

Resistance: 1.64 – 3.28 kΩ at 20°C (68°F) If the resistance is not as specified, replace the accelerator ped- al position sensor. (See page SF–43) © Reconnect the accelerator pedal position sensor connec-

tor.

6. REINSTALL V–BANK COVER

The backlighting for the speedometer/RPM/Temperature and Gas gauges is done by CCFL and is probably due to a fault in that circuit.

It's either a case of sending it off for repair or converting to LED illumination.

See the link below detailing the conversion.

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/lighting/clustercolor.html

Have you fell out with us UK guys then Mike? :D

There are a couple of breakers on ebay.co.uk for the airbag.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/Cars-/9801/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=ls430

Hello and welcome to the LOC.

Did you get any service history with the car, I'm guessing it's a one owner?

I would get the cambelt, tensioner and idlers replaced along with the water pump if there is no evidence of a recent change, engine is non interference so if it broke would be inconvenient but wouldn't cause engine damage if the belt snapped.

Check your coolant for the correct mix or better still replace it with Toyota Red.

Other things are new plugs,wires, distibutor caps and rotor arms but if the car is running fine these are jobs you can do over a period of time.

I thought my 1994 was low mileage at 38,000 when I bought it in 2006 but yours is extremely low,how did you find it?

Post some pictures up, would love to see the condition both inside and out.

Are there no fault codes present or stored? A diagnostic plug in should reveal the problem.

If I was also a Mod on here that crap would be gone along with your ability to post!!!!!!

Have you not looked to see where about the leak is? Could be a number of things, power steering pump, power steering rack,the connecting pipework but if it is leaking right at the front of the car there is a U shaped piece of pipe low down in front of the radiator/AC condenser which often fails, this is the PS cooler.

Nothing like getting straight to the point,welcome to the LOC

It's all in the link below.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1996-Lexus-LS400-LS-400-Electrical-Wiring-Diagram-Service-Shop-Repair-Manual-/160886466862?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item257594a92e&vxp=mtr

That's not good then, BTW if the cambelt snaps the damage is done before the Engine Management Light even flickers it's all over in a fraction of a second.

Best way is to source a known good and warranted low mileage engine straight from Japan and replace the cam belt before you fit it.

There is a Blower Motor Relay Control Module attached to the fan motor casing, not the easiest thing to get to but a good place to check for the correct supplies, if is is switching on or loose wiring/plug.

They should be a straight swop, the PCD will be the same and the Offset within range.

Being off a later model they will also clear your calipers.

Sorry to tell you but if the timing belt has failed the engine will have suffered major and expensive damage from valves hitting pistons so I hope it hasn't.

A mechanic will know as soon as the top cambelt cover is removed.

Please come back with the cause when you know.

Nearly forgot welcome to the LOC and a Happy Thanksgiving Day.

Is $15.00 too much for the information you need?

www.techinfo.toyota.com

Wasn't aware there was a single piston caliper on any Lexus, my 1994 has twin pot sliding calipers.

My 1997 import has 4 pot Sumitomo calipers which can be fitted on earlier models with modifications and provided your wheels will then fit over the caliper as they are bigger.

Any steering wheel from October 1994 to 1997 should be a straight fit, later models will probably fit but there will be differences with the switches and wiring.

Vacuum leak on intake, throttle body needs cleaning, IACV needs cleaning/servicing and several other causes.

Lots of possible causes but I would clean the MAF as a start.