Proteus503

start with the easy stuff... replace the spark plugs, check the plug wire connections, double check everything that you touched the last time you were under the hood. a flashing CEL means it's misfiring (obviously... from the sputterin and stutterin). GL

check out: www.kbb.com estimated private party blue book value of a 95 lexus es300 with 65k miles is about $7,700.

Yikes! Need a good TIG welder? Lemme know if I can help! I weld & fabricate for a living... mostly TIG and some MIG, stainless steel, 304, 308, and 316 certified, all positions, plate and pipe.

1. How much power will I get from it? Not enough to be worth the effort... unless you've installed a turbocharger / supercharger. 2. Will the sound be horrible? Depends on what your definition of "horrible" is, but your exhaust will be much louder 3. How would I do it? Looking underneath, the last bolting connection I see is just before the converter. I guess just take it off, poke the cat with a steel rod, and shake out the debris? Is that right? Good luck, that honeycomb material is pretty tough. I've heard that the best way is to pour gasoline into the honeycomb and burn it to a crisp, then hack it all out with a prybar & hammer. Be sure to reinstall the cat with new gaskets. 4. Will is set off my CEL or mess up the oxygen sensors? It will probably set off a CEL for "ineffective catalitic" or something to that nature... but it shouldnt mess with your air/fuel ratio or "mess up" your oxygen sensors. Rather than ruining a decent OEM catalitic converter, I would suggest that you make a "test-pipe"... basically a piece of pipe to replace the cat with. Cut two matching flanges, and the proper length & size pipe, weld it all together, get yourself some new gaskets, and simply replace the cat with the test pipe. When inspection time comes around, bolt up the cat, inspect, pass, then reinstall test pipe. If you send me your cat as a template, or some really accurate blueprints, I'll make one for $100 (shipping included in lower 48 states). FOR RACING USE ONLY! :cough: :cough: :whistles:

I had a similar problem with my tacoma, but it didnt start until about 100k miles. Turned out to be a build-up of gunk in the throttlebody (originating from the PCV valve, which is normal). A light mist of throttlebody cleaner (acetone) and a swab with a q-tip and the problem disappeared. good luck!

Greetings! I just bought a '92 ES300 automatic with 165k miles. I love Toyotas... I've got a heavily modded 2WD Tacoma (project vehicle)... hence the ES is going to be the daily driver. I have spent the last couple of nights combing through the forums (imagine that... a newbie using the "search" feature! ). Anyway, I have a few unanswered questions... Does my '92 ES (being OBD1) have only one O2 sensor, or two (pre and post catalitic)? The antenna on my ES is gone... ripped out by some vandal. The motor seems functional though. Is there a cheap fix? a replacement antenna without a replacement motor? perhaps a direct swap from a junkyard camry? From my searching through the forum, I think my ES has a ball-joint problem... bumps in the road cause a thumping / dull rattling noise from the front, drivers-side suspension... definately doesnt sound like a wheel bearing or a CV joint, but it could be a bad bushing. Is ball joint deterioration a common problem for an ES of this age / mileage? How do the OEM suspension bushings hold up over time? Do the 3VZ engines have the same water-pump seal issue as the 5VZ (tacoma engine)? Any other advice about the ES? Thank you in advance for your time.