poneyboy

I don't know about Lexus Reman - 600 bills?

And mia culpa on the Subaru comment... somewhat kidding. Yes, the Toyota dealership parts manager said that if you bring it back in, they'll ask for the VIN. If it's a Lexus, they won't warranty it. To their credit, Lexus did describe why the reman was 2X the others - he said it uses all new parts except the casing. Supposedly none of the others do that? I'm not sure it makes any difference to get brand new parts for all that stuff... Cheers

I hear ya, but I'm a memeber of the "I hate Lexus parts" club. Camry reman = 269, Camry new = 629 Lexus reman = 659, Lexus new = 960. After market reman = same as Camry. But if you buy a Toyota part and put it in a Lexus, you void the warranty! This really frosts my hyde. I'm gettin a Subaru. Steve

So great to have guys like you on this forum! Here more what I found: The gear system with hydraulics and all is sliding back and forth as you turn the wheel. I'm guessing a clamp is loose or a grommet is shot. Thoughts? There are signs this has been happening for quite some time but it's reached a level that needs serious attention finally... Steve Had a buddy over tonight and we both decided that it needs a new rack. :cries: Unless I can get a bushing for the gear housing... The good news is that racks aren't that expensive. Any reason to buy brand new vs. reman? Dare I admit it? S

So great to have guys like you on this forum! Here more what I found: The gear system with hydraulics and all is sliding back and forth as you turn the wheel. I'm guessing a clamp is loose or a grommet is shot. Thoughts? There are signs this has been happening for quite some time but it's reached a level that needs serious attention finally... Steve

Hi, Has anyone dealt with this? I have a 1993 ES300 with only 160k on it and recently, the steering has become rather scarey. It may have been building up over time and I didn't notice it, but it really feels like I'm not getting any steering until late in the turn. I've measured the steering play and while it's a rather subjective measurement, it does seem that it's twice the allowed amount. I'm not sure where to look and the FSM isn't real strong on diagnostics. - It's plenty easy to steer, so I'm not suspecting the pump. - When watching the steering shaft as it exits the firewall, there seems to be a good bit of roll back and forth, not sure if it's normal. - I don't notice any flutter. - I don't get any shimmy. Thanks Steve

ES300, 1993 I see where this has been discussed, but don't see any comparison to my issue yet. My wipers don't work in intermittent mode - at times they default to low speed, at others I get three wipes and a pause, then at other times I get 5 wipes and a pause. It doesn't seem to matter where the switch is set. Mostly, I just get low speed. Also, the wipers don't generally return to resting position every time they are turned off. Depending on where they are in the cycle, they may or may not return. I seem to recall a friend with a 4 Runner who had similar problems and replacing the motor fixed it. But I'm not sure if his was like this... Stevo

Where do you have a Japanese car parts store? I've never seen one. This is again ludicrous. Good procedures have been established for most vehicles. American makers are adopting some of Toyota, Honda and Nissan's procedures and designs because they are universally good. The big three have made legendary strides in design and engineering and the world recognizes it. S

I completely agree. The hydraulic system sucks because it takes power to drive. Most mechanics hate this style system. Every system takes power. The fact that you drive an electric fan doesn't indicate that your not using power or that the engine isn't taxed. You're driving a generator/alternator aren't you? Putting a greater load on it will tax the engine more. The hydraulic fan system is great - designed for smooth and quiet operation and a very reliable component. Mechanics see it and don't understand. They don't hear a lot of noise. They think it has to have two speeds. That's why it went away I suspect - dumb mechanics at Lexus. Or perhaps cost. Two electric motors are probably very cheap as opposed to a hydraulic component like that one. The fact is that you can't do better with electric motors. They can't cover as much of the radiator and therefore don't induce as even a flow. They removed the radiator cap and overflow send->return on the 1mz-fe. Compair them, they're completely different. This is a good fix. I agree with Lexus on this one. See the bulletin on the 93 ES300 - they initiated this change. I know, I just went throuh that problem with a habitually overheating 3vz-fe. Only to find out the original mechanic replaced the 3vz-fe radiator with an OEM '94 1mz-fe radiator. Lowering the boiling temperature 70*F, and not having an overflow return (If a 3vz-fe is overheating, it'll blow the pressure into the over-flow tank, and will suck coolant back into the radiator so there is no air trapped in the system, When 1mz-fe's overheat they blow the coolant out, but air is trapped in the system.) Again, the replacement radiator for this year ('93) car from Lexus is without a return hose and cap. You don't need that radiator cap or return hose. The air that gets into the system will find its way to the top and can be bled out through the engine cap/return hose. You don't need the radiator return hose/cap - it's just another point of failure - Lexus knew this and changed it. (However, I went out and bought an aftermarket radiator that does have the return hose. No, sorry, can't justify the $699 they quoted me for a plastic Lexus radiator. I like my aftermarket model better. ) I troubleshot a 1mz-fe last week who's waterpump was completely corroded off. (Pay attention and you'll see why this is actually common by the end) The guy had the radiator replaced when the plastic top sprang a pin-hole leak (high pressure + low flow + nasty corrotion from bad fluid = bad). The leaking coolant was fixed, but the car was still overheating. Normally you would ask why? Because the water pump was corroded off! Most of the time, if you have left old fluid in long enough to blow the stock radiators, there will be some degree of pump damage. (Maybe that's why Toyota has always used plastic radiators.) ^ That's how the pumps get damaged. That is always why any *good* Toyota mechanic will tell you when the radiator is replaced, the pump may or may not be shot also. Corroded where? You mean the impellor? That's just bad maintenance. Worn water pumps are not typical with this car or most other Toyotas. If they are abused as you indicate, then that can happen - with any car. I typically see the water pump lose it's mechanical seal before it corrodes. This is typical Toyota behaviour that I've noticed over the past 20 years. In fact, I've never personally seen a worn pump impellor on any of my cars - only heard about them! Long Life coolant is supposed increase the lifespan of the pump seals. Perhaps this is true, but not on my '93. For refferance, anytime any of your hear about a radiator blowing, or leaking. The entire system needs to be flushed for a long time to clear the corrotion & sludge, and the pressure needs to be tested when the enigne is warmed up to insure the pump is not damaged. (VZ-FE owners don't fret because you're coolant is not comming clean... The blocks are iron, and the water will ALWAYS come out orange/rusty looking LoL!) This is a little odd. I don't see how a pure and clean flush can't come clean in the end - mine does and I have the iron block. Maybe you need to find that petcock. However, I disagree somewhat on the radiator always indicating a bad pump. My radiator was very thin and quite frankly a very weak link. The later one was much thicker and heftier. I believe this was a mistake on Lexus' part and one of the many reasons this car ran into so many overheating problems. It couldn't take the heat very well so developed hairline cracks, and it was simply too small. Poor choice by Lexus. Good choice to come up with a new one... You're pretty much dead on tho. If people would replace the water pump on schedule, and keep fresh coolant in the system (drain the radiator every year, or flush the system every other) You'll simply never have a cooling problem. I have to add - keep those hoses and caps inspected.

You and I are in agreement. I have noticed that Infinity dealers in my area are pretty freindly and helpful. I've also noticed that Lexus service centers are either incompetent or jerks. This is very sad. We aren't buying Yugos here... Stevo

Make the dealer fix it. This behaviour is inexusable and Mr. Toyoda would be horrified. Lexus and Toyota dealers are notoriusly arrogant and condescending. Here's my experience: I walked out of the dealer with Toyota Long Life under my arm and asked a service manager "Can you tell me where I should look for the coolant petcock under my engine so I can drain it out completely?" His answer was "We don't do that, we remove the hoses and that gets it all. That hose is the lowest point in the engine." I said "That's funny, none of my hoses are that low. I would end up with very little control over my mix if I do that. Besides, I have a petcock on my radiator that is very low, but not low enough." He asks a mechanic who is walking by. He gave me two possible locations and indicated that he does in fact use this to drain the systems. He was right. My Lexus service manager was a nice guy, but incompetent. He quoted me $700 to resurface my brakes. This didn't include bleeding the system. However he did say it included relubing the bearings. Funny thing, my bearings are sealed ball bearings. Go get 'em. Go to the top guy and/or write a letter if you have to. They are clearly being pricks and you are not out of line. Explain that you will be helping them learn about a problem they are likely to see in the future! Steve

ES300 Overheating Guide OK all, this is an attempt to sum up several experiences I've had with my ES300 and it's overheating problems and hopefully decrease the pain that everyone is feeling when this happens: What happened to me: 1) Had a leaky radiator a year ago that was letting air into the system but not leaking coolant when under pressure. So I had this intermittent boil over issue that would crop up from time to time. When it was finally obvious, I replaced the radiator and it ran great - for a while. 2) I had leaky radiator caps that were also letting air in. So if I topped off the system and drove around, everything was fine. After a day or two, air was getting in and I would have an intermittent boil over - but only so often. Replaced them and it did well for a while. 3) Recently, I had a more consistent elevated temp issue. This was happening after 15 minutes on the highway on hot humid days. When I pulled into my driveway, the temp would jump up slightly. Plus, there was a lot of bubbling into the resevoir, so I thought there was air getting blown into the system from a blown head gasket. Decided to find that damn petcock and completely drain the system and replace the thermostat before I went for a head gasket. Low and behold, I found an old gasket that had been melted to the inside wall of the thermostat housing. It was dangling over the thermostat and possibly jamming it's operation. I removed this and replaced the theromstat thinking I was ok. Well, it heated up again. This time it was in my parking lot at work the next day. Opened the hood and the heater hose had blown a pin hole. Hmmm - thought for sure I had a blown head gasket now. Replaced the hose and limped home. Funny thing, the bugger behaves pefectly. Instead of stopping in the driveway and finding the temp goes up, it actually adjusts down slightly. This indicates that the flow is greatly improved. So I think that hose was balooning and messing with the ability to create enough pressure in the system. It may also have become gas permeable and been allowing air into the system as it cooled. Now, with all this, it has become clear that the cooling system in this car is very delicate and requires that every element be working perfectly. It is also clear that it can take a tremendous amount of punishement before needing a new head gasket. Given all the stories of head gasket problems and hydraulic fans being replaced by electric ones (this NEVER solves the problem folks, it's just not a part that breaks), I can only conclude that there are a lot of rich mechanics out there who don't understand this thing or there are a lot of poor owners out there who have been duped. I looked into this and here are several fixes that have been used (my own car history indicates that someone was throwing parts at the car). What not to do: 1) :chairshot: Replace the hydraulic fan with electric ones. This fan doesn't break. This is not a solution and don't let any mechanic tell you otherwise. Again, this fan doesn't break. You may need to replace the filter and/or the fluid, but this thing is rock solid. Two electric motors will not be able to move as much air as that original fan, and they will never work right. It's a gerry rig at best and may only mask your real issues. Why the hydraulic fans? To decrease fan noise. Why not replace it? Because it always looks bad and because it doesn't really solve the problem. Mechanics see it and think it is a design flaw. In reality, you may only need to replace a solenoid or something like that to improve it's operation. 2) :chairshot: Replace the whole hydraulic system. It's been done, but it doesn't help. Again, they are throwing parts at you. Only if the pump is making noise and obviously broken do you need this. The assumption is again related to the fan. Mechanics see that hydraulic fan and always assume it's the problem when in reality it's the one element in the system that is not likely to break. 3) Replace the water pump. This isn't a solution to the overheating. Don't do this unless you have a leak or you are replacing your timing belt. These water pumps don't last long enough to wear out impellors. If this is your mechanic's solution to the problem, he doesn't really know what's up. There is no good way to test flow in this system anyhow, so how could he know? 4) Replace a head gasket. This may be your problem - but if your trouble is intermittent, don't go for it unless you have irrefutable proof. These things are pretty solid and can take some serious punishment. I may still have to do this on mine, but every time I'm worried about it, something else manifests itself. 5) Remove the thermostat. This can help, or it can make things worse. I'm not sure if it's a bad thing to do when it makes the overheating stop. But it's only masking the real problem. In some cases, this actually increases your temperature by increasing the flow too much and not allowing enough heat exchange through the radiator. In other cases, it really stops the overheating. It could be a stop gap measure, so I wouldn't rule it out. Just realize it's only that. So in case it's not been obious, here are the legitimate fixes: What to do: 1) Make sure you have good caps. These are critical 2) Make sure you properly fill the system from the top fill point. Let out all air as you do. I have posted the proper procedure previously. Do not assume the air will find it's way out! 3) Make sure all your hoses are in johnny !Removed!&span condition. This includes your overflow hoses that run to the resevoir as well as your upper heater hose. 4) Make sure your thermostat is good. It's rarely the problem, but not expensive as a rule-out step. 5) When you bleed and re-fill the system, use the petcock on the back of the block to get it all out. And refill with Toyota long life. Your water pump will thank you for that. 6) Make sure your radiator is good. If it has any small cracks or signs of wear, it may be your problem. 7) Get really good advice and be very certain if you suspect a blown head gasket. It's risky to drive it if you do have one, but also very painful to replace it and find out it's not your problem! In many cases, the head gasket is impossible to diagnose if your problem is intermittent. Sorry for the long post, but I was hoping this could help someone out there. The 93 and similar ES300s have very solid motors and are worth fixing. So be patient and don't let a mechanic quote you $2500 for a new head gasket set when you can buy a very nicely rebuilt motor for $1795 and pop it in yourself for nothing. Or better yet, do your own head gasket for under $400. And make sure that's your problem! Ciao Stevo

Thanks Bartkat, you've basically told me what I wanted to know. I loathe working on Hond Civics. And it seems that they've gotten more crowded under the hood.

Hi all, I'm usually in the ES300 group, but I'm seriously thinking about one of these IS300s and was wondering if you folks find it relatively easy to work on? Or do most of you folks take the car to a dealer? I tend to do my own work to save money and make sure the work is done right. Rarely will my cars go to a dealer and when they have to, I'm always nervous that it won't be treated properly. -S

Hi, I have a 93 ES300 and it has to be the best finish I've seen on any car. Most people think it's brand new. So whatever dealer said that it's a problem with all Lexus cars is full of it. It looks like you guys are up for a helluva fight, and don't quit - I want to buy one of those IS300s in a couple of years, so make sure you get them to fix your cars!

Also try www.carpoint.com. Some of the mechanical reviews can tell you what goes wrong with a particular car.

So for 250 it's a deal.

My dealership quoted around $600, don't know what a 3rd party would be. This is why I'm doing it myself soon.

Lexus pads also squeal. The only things you can do is get your rotors turned and put on new pads that don't squeal as much.

Chances are, its your valves and they need adjusting. Yes, dealerships will charge you a *BLEEP*load of money for this very simple task. Try a trusted independent mechanic.

Thanks for the response. So in this case, I'm talking about damage from overheating, especially when you don't get a blown head gasket. It seems that a serious overheat can cause problems down the road. What problems are they? How do I know if I have them? I've never heard of valves being out of sync...you must mean clearances. But this doesn't constitute heat damage I wouldn't think. Mostly I'm thinking of possible things such as cylinder damage and such. Perhaps rings fall into that category. For the record - when it comes to valve clearances and other scheduled maintenance items, it seems that Lexus dealerships are not in the habit of doing any of these important measures. I don't trust them.

93 ES300, 105k Anyone know what signs to look for with regard to heat damage? I have a co-worker who had a GMC truck that overheated once. It didn't blow a head gasket, but a year later it died from the heat damage. He said it started sounding more and more like a diesel until it guit running. Any ideas here?

It sounds like you have the 93 like I do. I've been through the exact same thing as you - water pump, radiator, etc. etc. The overheating problem is intermittant. I haven't replaced anything in the power steering system yet, but supposedly there is an actuator switch that turns on the flow to the fan motor. (It's a hydraulic fan that runs from power steering fluid pressure) Ask your mechanic if he replaced that - it's the only thing in your power steering system that should be considered when related to your cooling system. I wish I could help you, but I'm beginning to come to a conclusion: if fixing the power steering actuator and heat temperature switch doesn't help, then this car is destined to overheat! It seems that it was inherently designed with a poor cooling system. This is certainly why they went to the standard electric motor the following year! Perhaps there's a mod that will allow for an electric fan motor?

I'm hoping we have some guys here that can help. I just had to replace my radiator, but before that it was my water pump. I have a new thermostat and new caps. The radiator and pump were in need of replacement, but still I have some cooling issues. I believe it's the cooling fan system - the hydraulic one. I assume there is a temperature sensor and an actuator that work together to make this thing work. Does anyone know how this thing works and how to go about troubleshooting this fan? It seems to be the issue as I find intermittent increases in temperature when stopped. At times, it works flawlessly and stays below the half mark. Other times, it creeps up to the next tick mark - and I fear it will overheat. Once I get going, it comes back down. I also think there may be two speeds to this fan? It just may be that the fan switch is the real bugger in this whole equation - at first it appeared that my woes were over. But now it appears to be back. Possibly the new and bigger radiator is preventing a quick oveheat, but I don't trust what's going on.