mark.blend

Thanks for the reply: My cruise works and no lights are on, all else works, except horn? My understanding is the clock spring has a retract button on the ring that may be stuck in the retruct position and not allowing the ground path with ring. I'm wondering if the path is only for the horn or other as you mentioned? A solution would be follow the steering remove procedure (air bag caution), pull the ring and clean/check the button - replace ring if broke. A couples mechanics said this usually fixes the problem? mark

Any experience with the contact mechanism under the steering pad? My horn is not working upon pad press: I have replaced relay, checked fuse and tested horn. I'm sure how to fix or clean contact switch under steering pad?? please advise thanks, mark/denver 95 SC400

ok i have the ashtray and steering trim and am looking for my stereo, i have a few people interested but im not sure if i still have it. thanks for youre interest thoughand the nice message. make an offer on those parts if you want thanx mike...619-250-7828 HELLO, I NEED AN INSIDE DOOR HANDLE - DRIVER SIDE THANKS, MARK HARDERSCO@COMCAST.NET

What models and years (SC4301, RX, LS, GS) will fit my 95' SC400 Rear View Mirror? I have a see thru spot in the center (day time w/o tint). SC 400 mirrors (tan) are hard to find and would like to upgrade? Thanks, mark

Please read previous thread with a link, instructions with step-step pics are posted and are very much appreciated. I preformed the R&R in about 20 min. and added a few simple notes. Hint: you don't need to disconnect the wires from the cluster, the "D: is green = second in position, you don't need to take the white cover off. mark.blend

A little feed from the "D" lite installation. The instructions explained here are easy for removal. I should note that if the operator is careful not the scratch the cluster or pull the hardness -that it may be positioned upright between the steering wheel and the bad "D" green socket removed and replaced without taking the (3) hardness connectors off or the center cover(8 screws?). The 2nd position is green for the "D" light and number 1&3 are black (L 2 D respectively). I would pre-fit a Phillips screw driver to the new "D" at the bench to ensure proper fit at the cluster. Assembly, as described, is equally as easy. I spend 15 minutes playing/figuring the holes vs. light position. I'm still not sure why the 2nd position = D Green, but is correct! keep the board alive! mark.blend

I just purchased the "D" light from Kuni lexus, Co it list for $11.00 and with a club discount it was $8.80. The part number has been revised, which means they either improved it or changed the MFG source? Time with determine the change, as they did not know?? It was #83119246710, as identified in this how-to reference site, and is now 83119-24670. They knew exactly what I needed without looking up the number - they should have gave me it! I may have left there a satisfied customer and considered a new parts car! mark.blend

Will buy your: Rear View Mirror for $30. E-mail me for payment means thanks, mark.blend, denver hardersco@comcast.net

I have a stock 95 SC400 would also like a budget turbo or twin turbo system, but would need the installation formula for what else needs to be done, i.e., sizing injectors, fuel pump, any adjustments to cam tensionor, exhaust, etc. mark.blend, denver

Doug, The Toy Shop at Santa Fa and Mississippi; Many of use in Aerospace w/ lexus use this shop and he is very fair. He just installed all tune-up parts and adjusted throttle linkage for $300 plus parts, including fuel filter which the single bigest issue - because its hard to get off=rust ($85). Call me if you any questions 303-971-1812 mark

The shop should have tried better: for many Lexus blacks there are several formula variations which should be check with test panels, depending on the time of production runs morning, noon or night which is a small percentage of tone change to the mix and to the color. The fade character can be adjusted by reducing 105 base black, but the basic color/depth should be very close/exact. Most painter will find the color, not try the variations and blame the match on fade. Go back and have them fix it. The surface scan with the mass spec works well for solid colors, because tri, pearls, metallic have flop agents, and is about 90% accurate for older colors. Either way the painter should know what to do. mark.blend

Oh well. now they are now going to try to paint mix into the doors... Lets see what comes out of this one. In case this goes south, I'm looking at a nice flame job int the fenders or a 2 tone car....:cries: I would recommend being a bit more assertive with this. The paint mix is a lousy remedy when all that needs to be done is a repaint on the front of the car. Seriously, I would very nicely suggest an entire redo and if that strikes them !Removed! then contract a solid shop for the repair and bring the former to court. Truly, the ball is in your court with some photos. The mix will never, and I mean never look right.

Could some explain - what is the sequence to programming a key, for 1995 SC 400. I just bought this car and the key works everything, except the auto buttom lock. I have replaced the battery, but It did not help. Thanks, mark.blend