jc19907

I'm having the same problem with lukewarm heat at stop lights or what have you except that my fan speed stays constant. My coolant is full, so I'll try a new cap. They're about $10, so I guess that's a good place to start! The gasket did look worn but not in bad shape. I'd be too happy if that cured it! ← Blake, Try and let your car warm up to normal operating temperature, before touching the HVAC system. LEAVE ALL HEAT/AC CONTROLS OFF; INCLUDING THE FAN. I think these cars have a slow-weening heat valve in the set-up. So you don't steal heat from your cars engine upon warm-up in the a.m. By the time I get to work each day about 10 minutes my car still isn't warm - plus I have my windshield defroster on. This has been the obvious wrong way to drive this car for me. I've learned that the heat blazes, if a little patience is used. My 2 pennies.... If I have snow and ice on my windows I'm still going to wait until the car is at normal operating temperature until I turn on the controls to defrost the windshield. I posted this in another post earlier today. THX

I submitted a similar post which is also currently on this forum. My heat acts the same way. However, with careful review and curiosity. I believe I have the simple solution. Start the car and let it warm up completely - keep the heat and fan off. Then turn on to MAX HOT - no A/C. Use any vent you like - recirculated air or not. Mine burned me out of the car today. This is a simple measure of being patient and knowing your car. Additionally, in my observation, I've noticed that the HVAC system will give you gradual cool - heat in just a minute or two after starting the car - this would explain the inadequate heat many are getting. The valve mentioned in the response above must be responsible for all of this. I'm sure that is in place to keep your cars heat where it should be upon winter start up - in the engine, not the cabin. So, let your car warm up and then turn on your system. The engine will heat up faster too.

I think I'll try the new cap idea! Toping things off has seemed to help some, but I'm not convinced. I know these cars are insulated like crazy too, so it may not take heat equivalent to a C-J 5 to keep the car nice and warm. I started this post based on this being annoying only. It's really only bothersome when I start the car each a.m. Once, I'm rolling things are fine. I've determined that I put the temp setting on HOT - turn off the A/C and run the heat on the floor (off course topping off the fluid). This works the best in heating the car quickly. Otherwise all else works a bit slower. THX

Outside of an existing problem. I had a Lexus salesman tell me that the seats don't come on if the outside temp. is above 45-50. Don't really know if this is the case. Seems like it.

I've a 93 ls the fan speeds up on acceleration and slows at idle. But my air temp is constant. I would look at the coolent level. also the water pump if the coolent is full. with the rad cap off you should see the coolent flowing by at idle. ← I added some water to the system as it read low. Still not much help... After toying with it a little - I found that it gets the most warm (at idle) when I run recirculated air to the floor vents only. I also make sure to turn the A/C off - seems like it blows a little warmer with that off. I have also noticed that the car is about 20% weaker @ idle than when driving. My windshield wipers go faster when driving, not idling... This may be coincidental... Still scratching my head on this one...

When the car is idling and @ normal engine operating temperature, the heater seems to blow air that is about room temperature..? As soon as I hit the gas, the fan blower picks up in speed and the air gets much warmer (probably maximum temperature). Not sure what this is? Maybe a Thermostat stuck a tad open...??? a failing battery..? My gut tells me a have a partial blockage in my cooling system.... As the engine speeds up the water pump spins faster and thus I have more heated coolant going through the core than when the car is idling... I'm old school though and this car is pretty high tech when it comes to the HVAC system (especially with the NAV system). This isn't a real bother as the car gets toasty when traveling etc. But, in cold weather when sitting in traffic this is a nuisance and a possible precursor to a bigger problem.... I think I'll start with a system flush... Anyone gone through this on their LS? And what'd you do? THX

Anyone know where I can get a quality woodgrain dashkit for a 99 LS with navigation? My wife has one in her GS300 and it looks great. I've seen some online that are about 250$, but I'm not sure about the match to the woodgrain in my car. I'd rather spend the bucks and get one that will look the best. THX

Thanks Monarch, Yeah, I'll probably bust my knuckles and try and replace it without removing the radiator. ;)

I posted on this last week.. . ? I didn't get a response (probably b/c I have the navigation system). After reading up, I think that mine too, won't even give me a readout until the car is warmed up and re-started. I'm able to manually turn on the heat by going straight to the climate menu and turing the control on high -- problem is, I cannot adjust the temperature upward . . ? I think I'm just gonna try the front defrost button - I that puts the car into high heat mode when the car actually warms up.

The Owner FAQ at Toyota.com, explains Toyotas position on timing belt replacement. Toyota says it's position on timing belt replacement is the same as with other engine drive belts: inspect at the first 60,000 miles (90,000 miles for the VVTi models) and every 15,000 miles thereafter. Toyota then goes on to say that since the labor to inspect the timing belt is considerable, some owners may wish to go ahead and replace the timing belt anyway every 60,000 miles. As I said in my earlier post, experience teaches us (those of us with Toyota specific experience) that Toyota timing belts in Toyota engines can last as long as 150,000 - 200,000 miles if the driver is a relaxed highway driver type and can be as short as 60,000 - 90,000 miles if the driver is the opposite. GS400 owners, for example, are likely to be hurried, aggressive drivers so its no surprise mehullica told us today that he worked on a GS400 engine that had a belt in bad shape at 121,321 miles. ← Folks, All of this is great info. I'm a home wrench turner and usually will replace this kind of stuff whenever I get a new car. The LS is a high end car with higher costs, so I'm taking a bit of time to research the options. This is a job that I'll have the dealer do and I'll probably have it done @ 100K. I also saw the alternator down in there too - is that something I need to replace too? Or can you get to that from underneath the splash guard and replace it separate from the TB and WP? THX!

This bugs me - My climate controls work, but the temp. read-out doesn't. This occurs when the temperature is usually 30 degrees and less. I'm sure it has to do the LCD being sensitive to cold temps. I can restart my car after it has warmed up to fix the problem. I have the Navigation system and it acts a bit like the HVAC head too. Is this normal in this car?

918, You are obviously a wrench turner! Me too! But, I'm afraid to tackle something like that - just brakes suspension - dashwork etc... I posted another topic on the timing belt to see what others have done too. I just dropped about 2K on my car for a starter, brakes, tires, trans flush. Just seeing when I'm going to need to drop that other 1000 on the timing belt/water pump fix... You're info has been very insightful and helpful! Thanks a bunch! I can't seem to attach a photo of my car on my profile. . ?

I have a 99LS with 87K on it. Just seeing when folks have changed out the timing belt and water pump. After a recent inquiry to my Lexus dealer, they told me that 100K was the new recommendation for my car...? My manual states 90K. Anyway, I've done about 25K worth of mostly highway driving in the last 18 months that I've owned the car. A few enthusiasists have told me they've gone past the dealer reccomendation of 90K. Wait til 100K, 110K or more? Don't wait, do it now? 2cents? THX

Blake918, How much for all the timing stuff, water pump etc? Any guess for the costs at my dealership? Also, did buy your car new and wait until 120K to replace all that stuff? Thanks for the advice.

Ok, no responses. How bout' has anyone ever had to change their starter? I heard it was a serious task considering the position it's located in. ← I had my starter replaced last year @ Toyota. It cost about 900$ (most of which was labor)- yuck. The starter sits in the middle part of the engine and the top of the engine has to be removed to get at it. The starter is located here because of balance. I would replace with a new (not rebuilt) OEM starter and have Toyota or Dealer do the work. I would rather a mechanic who's done several LS starter replacements do this work; and putting in a new OEM unit will ensure that you won't have to pay to do it again anytime soon. This is not something you want to save a few bucks on. 2cents

Blake918 - Do you have a recommendation on timing belt change intervals? My Lexus dealer says 100K instead of 90K? Quoted 800$ for the repairs. Do you recommend the H2O pump too? What should I do and when? I'd seen were you're car had gone 250K - WOW! Mine is a 99 LS with 87K (VVTI)- its a life-timer for me!! THANKS!!!

Thanks Blake 918, Can I just start by prying @ the plastic surrounds of the Navigation system (there is no wood trim surrounding the Nav sytem - just the controls for audio, climate, nav. etc)? Or, do I need to start down next to the shifter and work my way upward? I think I'm just going to replace the lights all around the Nav/HVAC system - not stuff on the shifter console. If it is easy I'll just do them all. THX!

Sup, I have one light that has gone out on the HVAC head (which controls the driver's side temp control. I have a 1999 LS400 with Navigation. I'm trying to figure out how to pull off the wood trim etc. to replace all the bulbs myself. Anyone know to do this with out tearing the center console up? Pulling off the radio knobs (old school) was a short lived and futile venture... Do I need to just gently pry with a small screwdriver to loosen the wood/plastic parts of the center console? THX