1990LS400

On 11/14/2019 at 4:53 PM, TG101 said:

The tire sensor light came on my Lexus yesterday after the temperature droppped to 27 degrees.   I checked the tires and filled them to 30 psi as listed on the door panel.  THis did not fix the problem.  I stopped by a local tire center and was advised to fill tos 34 psi and i did.  I was told to drive it a bit and the problem would go away.  It did not.  The selction was set to MAIN  and I tried the reset button with no luck.  This morning it set all tires and spare to 30 PSI and pushed the reset button still no luck.  To these valves possibly have a batter that may need to be replaced or is one or all of the sensors bad?  This is an irritating problem.  Can anyone offer some suggestions on what more can be done?

If the TPMS sensors are the originals, they are at least 12 years old.  Batteries in them often don't last nearly that long.  Any competent tire shop has a tool that can determine which sensor(s) are the problem and their battery strengths.

If the car has optional Intuitive Parking Assist option, the sensors in the front bumper will be completely obvious.  Google up some 2015 ES350 photos and you'll see what they look like.

Don't go drilling holes if you decide to mount the front license plate on the bumper where there are probably dimples that mark where the screws go.  Get the front plate mounting kit, which probably comes with self tapping screws, from a Lexus dealership.  If she's the original owner, she probably has the kit and misplaced it or the kit is still somewhere in the trunk.

I think a good place to mount the front plate is at the center of the lower grill.  I'd put it on a backer and maybe use four black zip ties to hold it to the lower grill or figure out some other method to attach it.  Here's an image of a very high quality silicon license plate backer I bought on Amazon for our vehicles.   I bought black ones but it also comes in colors. 

On 11/6/2019 at 7:21 PM, Bill Peloquin said:

I purchased the DVD maps from Amazon. 

I still cannot update the maps. 

That's because an owner can't buy a DVD map update on Amazon for a 2007 LS460 and update it himself.

Only a Lexus dealer can do it using a "master DVD" and the Navigation Update Tool that only Lexus dealers have.

Exactly where on the dashboard and for what purpose?

8 hours ago, FinallyFree said:

Retiring at 68 and thinking of selling my Honda Odyssey and getting a true Luxury car; a Lexius.  Zeroing in on an older ES 350 or RX.  Maybe even a Hybrid one.

So, I ask you experienced Lexus owners, is this a bad Idea for a single woman who can’t fix her own car?  And the closest Lexus shop is 2 hours away? 
 

I’d like to keep the price around 25,000 or less.  
 

Thank you for any insights, advice, etc

Pam

My opinion is that it is a bad idea.  Two hours away is too far away from the nearest dealership.  Not that the RX and ES are bad vehicles but I certainly don't regard them as luxury cars.  They are decent vehicles.  I've had a lot of RX and ES loaners over the 24 years I drove top of the line Lexus LS sedans and I've found them generally disappointing.  I would take a Toyota Highlander over an RX and a Toyota Avalon over an ES.

What are your needs?  Since you now have a Honda Odyssey, do you still need a van that can carry a lot of stuff?  Do you prefer a hatchback over a 4-door sedan?  Is there a Toyota dealership close to you ... i.e. much closer than the Lexus dealership?

Whatever you buy, I suggest you buy a 2017/2018-up Lexus with Lexus Safety System or a 2017/2018-up Toyota with Toyota Safety Sense.  These safety systems include radar based automatic emergency braking (Pre-Collision System), adaptive cruise control (Dynamic Radar Cruise Control), Lane Departure Warning with Steering Assist and Automatic High Beam.  Not that 68 is "old" but these safety systems are particularly valuable to us older people.  My wife and I are a wee bit older than you are.  

If you need an Odyssey size van but would like one with more luxury features, I would suggest a 2018 or newer Toyota Sienna Limited Premium.  It has height adjustable HID headlights, heated steering wheel, nice leather upholstery with memory driver seat, rain sensing wipers and all the features of Toyota Safety Sense.  You might have to go a little higher that $25,000 to get one of those as a used vehicle since a new one retailed at nearly $50,000.

If you prefer a smaller pseudo-SUV, I would suggest the redesigned 2019 or newer RAV4 Limited but only the ones with the optional adaptive headlights which are highly rated by the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (iihs.org).  The non-adaptive RAV4 headlights are not rated well.  

There is a hybrid version of the RAV4 Limited.  Toyota hybrid systems are very reliable.  We've had a hybrid 2012 Prius v Five since new and it hasn't had a single problem although it's only at 43,xxx miles.  My wife and I test drove a RAV4 hybrid a few weeks ago and found it to be very nice - much quieter than our Prius v.  We had planned to buy a 2020 RAV4 Limited Hybrid but are now waiting for the recently announced 2021 RAV4 Limited plug-in hybrid.

IMO, the main difference between Lexus and Toyota brand vehicles and their dealerships is that Lexus vehicles sometimes have slightly nicer materials and Lexus dealerships have better snacks in their waiting rooms.  Otherwise there isn't much difference under the skin with many Lexus and Toyota brand vehicles using the same engines, transmissions and many other components.

It was locally customized by Lexus of Palm Beach for people over 70 years old who like vinyl roofs and gold trim.  I don't think you can legally drive it if you don't have a Social Security card.  🤣 

According to the parts diagrams and lists, it's under the dash in the driver side junction box.  It might have its part number on it:  90987-02012

Maybe it's changed but replacement owners manuals used to be provided at not cost.  Ask a Lexus dealership about it or contact Lexus customer service.

The owners and maintenance manuals can also be viewed online in the owners section of the Lexus website.  Registering is not necessary.  I find the online versions much easier to use than the paper ones.  The manuals are in PDF format and can be downloaded.

Get that additional key before you lose the one you have and get into a bind.  So many people have lost their only key and gotten into real trouble.  I've bought several master keys at Lexus dealerships when "she who will not be named" lost hers.  When she did lose her key, I was at the Lexus dealership the next business day to get a replacement no matter what it cost.  I now keep one extra key for each vehicle in a fire proof safe.  The safe is on an outside wall that could be easily retrieved if something happens to the house as long as the house doesn't blow away.

27 minutes ago, Debby1313 said:

Hi all, new to this. Christmas of 2018 I purchased a used 2206 ES330 for my Husband. Love the car - smooth. I have been reading some comments here and I think we are not getting the best mileage we could. In resetting the trip it reads that we will get 500 to empty. That seems a little low. I am spoiled though - I get between 1000-1150km's in my C-MAX Hybrid. I am also reading that we should run 90+ octane. Then I read, no regular octane is good. I am unable to source out where the accuracy is written. I have tried the on line owners manual and still unsure.We live in Canada and I am not up on octane levels in gas from the USA.

Could someone reply to me. TX Debby

There's really no difference in gasoline between the U.S. and Canada.  I've driven personally owned and rental vehicles from the U.S. into a number of Canadian provinces including B.C. on extended trips and there were no differences in how they performed on fuel in either county.

Regular fuel is fine for the typical Toyota/Lexus V6 engine but maybe not for some recent turbo charged V6 engines like the ones now used in the LS500.  I've always thought it funny that regular fuel has usually been recommended for Toyota V6 engines but that premium has sometimes been recommended for Lexus V6 engines.  I've checked the part numbers for the V6 engine and their associated engine control electronics used in Toyota brand and Lexus brand vehicles and found that they are the same.  Supposedly premium fuel will provide slightly more horsepower and perhaps slightly better fuel economy but it's a trade-off between results and cost.  

500 km to empty after the tank is filled does sound a bit low but the calculation is based on the fuel usage rate of the previous one or maybe two tank fulls.  Fuel usage is highly variable.  The tank average for our 2014 Toyota Sienna V6 can range from average of 17 mpg to 25 mpg (13.84 l/100km to 9.41 l/100km) depending on how it is driven.  If you are mainly tooling around Vancouver or Victoria on surface streets, you will get substantially poorer fuel economy that if you mainly drive on highways.

Now ... would you please have a bridge built to Vancouver Island so that we no longer have to take a ferry?  We used to have to take a ferry to P.E.I. but they finally built a bridge for us.  😁

I suspect the beeping is related to a problem with what was called Vehicle Skid Control (VSC) back in 2002.  It's since been re-branded as Vehicle Stability Control.  How it works is explained at https://drivers.lexus.com/lexusdrivers/experiences/experiences-details/ART2654

A loose steering wheel is worrisome and could be a symptom of the problem.  We've had vehicles with VSC for almost 20 years and have never had the warning beeping occur when changing lanes or rounding curves on dry, smooth pavement during normal driving.  It's occurred mainly on rain, ice or snow slick pavement and a few times on loose gravel when I was driving VERY hard and pushing the vehicle to the limit.

This could be a dangerous situation.  I suggest that you have a professional (e.g. Lexus dealership technician) diagnose the problem.

It's probably going to require a Lexus dealer technician to diagnose the cause of the problem.  There are many components in the AFS system.

It's doubtful that both horns would fail at the same time but it would be easy to find out with a simple 12V test light.  There are several potential causes.  The horn on the 2000 LS400 I used to have started barely working if at all when something inside the horn pad/air bag assembly broke.  An indie repair shop installed a salvaged horn pad / airbag assembly for around $800 which was great since the new part was over $2,000.

Or it could be a defective spiral cable in the steering wheel.  The indie shop that fixed the horn problem in my 2000 LS diagnosed the problem in only a few minutes but the mechanic was a former lexus dealer mechanic.

11 hours ago, CT-Liam said:

I would like to get a roof rack for my 2007 es350, Looking for recommendations.

When I look up "es350 roof rack" the prices are $200-500, when I just look up "roof rack" I see prices in the $50 range.

Has anyone gotten a cheaper roof rack and had issues with installation/durability/damage to your car?

Thanks!

What do you mean by "roof rack"?  Cross bars?

You are certainly not going to find new cross bars that will fit your ES for anywhere near $50.  $200 to $500 maybe but more around the $500 mark.  And that doesn't give you the components to carry anything like ski's, bikes or a cargo box.  Add $100's of dollars for those.

What do you want to carry?  Is there anyway to squeeze inside?  

I hate roof racks due to the noise and the hassle.  I've got 35 year old Yakima cross bars with aero roof and gutter roof mounting hardware with snow ski attachments and all the locks in storage.  I don't remember what I paid for the contraption back in the mid-1980's but it's a $750 set up if I was buying it today.  This crap is expensive.  I bought the Yakima to fit a Honda CRX - my winter "ski car" - but they fit my Lexus LS sedans just fine.

Used cross bars and accessory attachments are sometimes available on Craigslist but it's trial and error to see if they fit and even then they might not be cheap.  

28 minutes ago, gbhrps said:

DaveES3502007,

GoodLuck!

Dave, the OP has a cracked screen!  Your video isn't about that.

If I had a problem with any of ours, I'd send it to https://hitechserv.com

You might find other repair companies if you do an internet search.  

It's usually fairly easy to pull a nav head unit but I've pulled head units countless times..  If you ship it for repair, wrap it EXTREMELY well with bubble wrap.  I must have used $10 of bubble wrap when I shipped a head unit a couple weeks ago but it arrived at its destination with no damage.    

8 minutes ago, sudomann said:

When the wait is long enough, it does. Or when I start the car in the parking lot, but don't drive off immediately.

I've noticed the traction battery briefly kick in from time to time while driving; Assuming I am right when assuming moving arrows from the battery towards the wheels on the energy monitor means the traction battery is helping...

Those are all signs that the traction battery is functioning.

Funny, I've looked at the energy monitor screen on my wife's Prius only a couple of times in 7 years although I don't drive the car much - mainly to the gas station and car wash.  I'm sure that my wife has never looked at it.  We didn't buy the Prius because it was a hybrid or due to its fuel economy - only because it was a fairly small wagon-like vehicle that my wife was comfortable driving and it had must-have safety features like automatic emergency braking (Pre-Collision System).

We'll likely buy the 2021 Toyota RAV4 plug-in hybrid that was announced last week to replace her Prius when it becomes available.  It's suppose to have a 20 to 25 mile range in EV mode.  Since she averages only 7.6 miles of driving per day to get to and from Yoga class, I might be refueling a RAV4 plug-in hybrid only once a year.  On average, I refuel the Prius about every 6 weeks. 

5 hours ago, sudomann said:

It's my understanding that the vehicle is sometimes supposed to drive powered by the hybrid battery.

Not really unless you are driving under about 10 mph very gently.  Even then, range in EV mode is very low.

Does the internal combustion engine shut down at least some of the time when you are stopped at a traffic light?  If it does then the traction battery is functioning to some extent.

If you are doing a lot of highway driving, you might be noticing that the hybrid version of the RX doesn't get much better gas mileage than the regular RX.

From the 2008 RX and RX hybrid sales brochures:

RX:Fuel Consumption 18/23 mpg (FWD)19
(estimated city/highway) 17/22 mpg (AWD)19

RX Hybrid: Fuel Consumption 27/24 mpg (FWD)
(EPA estimated city/highway) 26/24 mpg (AWD)

EPA fuel consumption estimates are widely seen as fantasy.  We've rarely achieve EPA estimates on our vehicles.  For example, my wife's 2012 Prius v hybrid - owned since new - has been averaging only 32 mpg in mostly city (35 mph to 45 mph) driving.  It's EPA city/highway estimates are 44/40 mpg.  Of course, the battery in her Prius is over 7 years old and might be getting weak although the car has only 43,000 miles on it.  Her low city fuel economy could be related to her rarely driving more than 15 miles/day and there aren't many traffic lights or downhill slopes that would trigger regenerative braking on the routes she takes.  Traction battery charging is totally dependent on regenerative braking.

I have to assume that a Lexus dealership could test your traction battery and the regenerative system for health.  

If your traction battery is weak and you want to replace it, there are several companies that sell re-manufactured ones ... like:  https://greenbeanbattery.com/lexus-rx400h-hybrid-battery-replacement/

A traction battery supplier like Green Bean Battery should be able to tell you if traction batteries for new model years can be used in your RX.

Fuse functions are shown in section 6-4 of the 2003 RX300 owners manual.  There appear to be multiple fuses for the door locks.  Here is a link to the owners manual in the Owners section of the Lexus website:  https://drivers.lexus.com/t3Portal/document/om-s/OM48442U/pdf/OM48442U.pdf

It looks from the parts diagram that the receiver for the wireless door lock system is in the left rear fender - image of diagram attached.  Sorry, I had to reduce the resolution substantially when snagging the image to get it to fit on my screen but you should be able to zoom in on it.

13 hours ago, jt_tow said:

ok curious why can’t i buy a key and a transponder what??

Key and ROM card sets appear to still be available as replacement parts.

The ROM card that matches the key is inserted in a slot in the wireless receiver in the left rear fender.

Here is an image showing the various key/ROM sets, their part numbers and the location of the wireless receiver.

1 hour ago, Rich Sim said:

Thanks for the information.  My biggest worry about installing an aftermarket system is what happens when I do something stupid and break the retractable antenna.   Currently it is very easy to replace however the process requires a few control functions on the original radio to be pressed simultaneously.  Can this sequence be replicated with an after market unit?  If not,   Is there a way to replace the antenna if I switch?

Sorry, I think I misunderstood the parts lists and diagrams for the SC430 and my memory of how it's equipped is failing.  If you have the retractable radio antenna instead of the one on the windshield, then I guess you would replace or fix it if it broke.  I don't know why you would be messing with the antenna if you are going to install an aftermarket audio system.  I would think you would just unplug the antenna from the original head unit and plug it into the new aftermarket one - at least that's what the installer did when he installed a double DIN screen Kenwood in my 2000 LS400.

A modern aftermarket audio or audio/navigation system would make your SC430 seem much more modern ... one with both Apple CarPlay and Android Auto would be very nice.

12 hours ago, Rich Sim said:

Does anyone know if you lose the “mast removal” function by replacing the factory radio in the sc430?

I've installed several aftermarket radios myself and had one professionally installed in a 2000 LS400 and the factory radio antenna has always worked fine with all of them.

Do you have the fixed (non-retractable) antenna with the removable mast on the right rear fender?  If you do, your owners manual says it is (was) for Lexus Link which was a rebranded OnStar emergency service.  In the parts list for the 2004 SC430, the removal mast is labeled as "ROD, TELEPHONE ANTENNA".  The analog Lexus Link was available on the 2003-2004 SC430 but for some reason the SC430 didn't get the analog/digital Lexus Link that was launched in 2005 - at least according to Wikipedia:  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lexus_Link

Here's a link to the 2004 SC430 owners manual so you can search it for "antenna" and be just as confused as I am about it:  https://drivers.lexus.com/t3Portal/document/om-s/OM24458U/pdf/OM244558U.pdf

Toyota played some odd "antenna games" in the 2000's when vehicles had the optional Lexus Link.  For example, the roof mounted antenna on the LS430 was for a dealer installed Lexus branded phone system only on vehicles without Lexus Link.  On vehicles with Lexus Link, the roof antenna was used for it and the phone antenna was imprinted on the rear window.

Lexus Link was superseded by Safety Connect which is now standard on many Toyota and Lexus models.

Edit:  I should have mentioned that the early SC430 had the removable mast antenna regardless of whether they had the optional Lexus Link.

24 minutes ago, PsychoFish1 said:

Thank you - I was mistaken and confused, do to the TV commercial in the 90s saying that every Lexus door is double sealed.
Which is true for passenger doors, not the rear hatch door, lol.

Now, I need to try to figure out how to disconnect the power linkage.
I wish I could afford the expensive factory repair manual. I had one for every car I owned, until they started costing more than $350 dollars, for only 1 or 3 volumes. 

Unless I'm hallucinating, my memory is that the LS400 I purchased in 1990 had triple door seals as did my 2000 LS400.  A Camry we bought in the 90's also had triple door seals.

Does your RX have a power door latch that wrenches the door shut the final inch or so?  If it does, it might have an electric "pinch protection" sensor inside the door gasket that you will have to deal with.

Are hard copy manuals still available?  The last set I purchased was in 2003 for a 2000 LS400.  Nowadays, most people view the manuals online at https://techinfo.toyota.com  .  A standard 2-day subscription is now $20.  The manual sections are in PDF format and can be downloaded.  With a good broad band connection, you could probably download all the manual sections for your RX in a few hours.

8 hours ago, Valorie said:

Hi,  I purchased a RX 400h with only 44,700 miles. I had to replace the front struts and tires.  Of course,  an alignment was done.  Unfortunately,  my car still pulled a little bit to the right. My mechanic checked the alignment and said it was within specs, but he tweaked it a little bit to see if that would help.  Unfortunately,  I still feel a very slight pull to the right.  Has anyone else experienced this type of issue? If yes, could you please share how you resolved it? Thank you so very much! 

LOL, maybe that's why the previous owner sold the RX.  These slight "pulls" can be difficult to diagnose and eliminate.  Is the steering wheel perfectly aligned when driving straight ahead?  If it isn't, there is still probably an alignment problem.  The cause could be a slightly damaged (bent) suspension parts.  I know the tires are new and shouldn't have a wear pattern that could cause a pull but swapping the wheels side-to-side could in theory help as long as the tires are not "directional".  Directional tires should not be swapped side to side - only front to back.  If the tires are directional, I suppose you could have the wheels swapped front to back to see if that makes any difference.

I've had improper alignments several times due to mechanics not being competent or having defective equipment.  Just a few months ago, a Toyota dealership tech said my Sienna needed an alignment even though the tires were wearing evenly, the steering wheel was aligned and the vehicle was driving perfectly.  When I got the van back, the steering wheel was cockeyed and there was a severe pull to the right.  The dealer tech clearly didn't know what he was doing.  When I took the van back for a "re-do", the tech essentially put the alignment back to where it was which was already perfect ... but they (Hendrick Toyota of Merriam Kansas) certainly didn't refund what I paid to have it screwed up and then restored back to where it was.  

Don't hold me to the $50 estimate.  Prices could vary wildly depending on whether name brand or off brand sensors are used.  The pressure sensors I bought at Costco five years ago for use on winter wheels were about $45 each but they were name brand - either Pacific or Dill.  The ID codes should be printed on each new sensor.  Some tire shops "ping" each sensor after installing them to retrieve the ID codes instead of manually inputting the printed codes but that might be more efficient if they use the same tool to upload the ID's through the vehicle diagnostic port.  I upload the ID codes to vehicle ECU's myself with a cheap (about $125) electronic tool since we have multiple vehicles and winter wheels/tires for them.  Doubting that you use winter tires in Mississippi!

Batteries in the sensors are not replaceable.  The Lexus dealer installed a new sensor.  I've seen threads about people buying pressure sensors on eBay for as little as $10 each but the tire has to be dismounted to install them and they have to be torqued correctly when installed on the wheel with a miniature torque wrench.  And the new sensor ID's have to be uploaded to the vehicle ECU.  I assume you don't have the equipment to remove a tire from a wheel in order to install a new sensor.

I would expect that an independent tire shop could install new pressure sensors in the other tires and upload the sensor ID's to the vehicle ECU for no more than $50 each.

11 years on a pressure sensor is pretty good.  They can fail sooner than that.