jtbel

Thanks for the reply! I had done a lot of reading already, but I did see some new things. It does seem like I'm already passed all of the hard parts, but I still have not heard anyone say what they did with the egr pipe. I understand that not all model years have the egr pipe in the way, but on my '97, the lower egr pipe connects to the water bypass joint (coolant bridge). With the pipe still connected, I can't lift up or take out the bridge. So, it has to be disconnected somewhere, and my guess would be from the bottom of the pipe. What did anybody else with the same setup do about this egr pipe?

I am doing the starter replacement myself. Things were going OK, I had to wiggle the lower chamber a bit to get it off. I got the rear water bypass joint loose, but it seems that the lower egr pipe is connected to it. I'm guessing I'll have to unbolt the bottom part of the lower egr pipe to be able to lift the bypass joint. Is this correct? I say the bottom of the pipe, because I've actually unbolted it in the past while trying to track down a leak, and because the top end of the pipe looks to be unreachable. Aside from that, what tool do I use to unbolt the starter? I'm not sure what I'll be able to get in there with all the pipes and hoses. Thanks, I'm soooooo close.

If I understand correctly, you just need to replace the bulbs, right? I just installed 2 new fog light bulbs in my '97 LS400, and all you do is remove the one screw holding each of the sidelights on, and pull them out. Once the sidelights are pulled out, you can easily access the fog light bulbs. Just twist and pull.

I read that somebody had got the bulbs at radio shack and then had to solder them on. The bulbs I am talking about are the selector buttons under the radio display, and the a/m f/m cd buttons. I don't think I'll have a problem getting to the bulbs, but I am not that great with a solder gun. Has anybody done this lately, or can provide some perspective on how exactly it is done?

Great news! It was the light bulb connectors after all. I just eliminated the brown plastic connectors and connected the wires directly to the bulbs, and voila. As far as the results after cleaning the steering solenoid, there might have been a slight loss of fluid, but not nearly like it was. The ground is dried up where the fluid usually fell. It is idling really good too.

Yikes! That's pricey. Well, I'm glad to hear that they last for quite a bit longer. My headlight problem has been hopefully narrowed down to the bulb connectors. I get power to the middle wire in the connectors. For some reason, they just don't make good contact, or are just too dirty. I think I will just cut the connectors off, and connect each wire individually where they go on the bulb. I'll give an update soon on whether the solenoid cleaning decreased my power steering leak.

Hello, my '97 LS400 has a couple of the little light bulbs out. Can someone help with a tutorial on how to replace them, and where to get the bulbs. Thanks

I received my new starter, but have not installed it just yet, because the car seems to be starting on the first try again. I'm going to wait until the starter really gives me problems, before replacing it. (I'm not that scared about the replacement, rather I just want to get as much use as I can from the old starter). Again, if anyone can help me on what to check with the headlight problem, I would appreciate it. I replaced one of the bulbs with an old one that I kept because it still was good, and it did'nt work. Anyway, I did some work on the power steering in the mean time. A while back I tried to clean the solenoid, but was unable to get it off. I finally got it to come off, and of course it was really dirty on the screens. I also took off the air valve underneath the pump. I just cleaned it and reinstalled it. Hopefully I will be able to see where it is leaking, if it still leaks. From what I could tell beforehand, I would guess the leak was coming from the valve. The car seems to be idling really nicely so far, I will have to get back with you on whether it still leaks. By the way, I am having to top off the power steering reservoir at least once a week.

Thanks for the info, I think I am ready for the starter replacement. I'm just waiting on the starter to get here. Does anyone have any knowledge on the headlamp problem?

My '97 LS400 has been making one click when I turn the key. It will start after 2 or 3 tries. I installed a new battery and checked cables, so at this point I am pretty sure it's time to replace the starter. I already ordered the starter and will be doing the replacement myself. Can anybody point me to some instructions or some good tips? Also, both my headlamps are not turning on. Under the hood, in the fuse box, there is a headlamp relay. I switched it out with the one labeled defrost, because it looks exactly the same, and there was no difference. Other than both bulbs going out at the same time, could there be anything else that I can check before replacing the bulbs? (the high beams are working fine). Thanks

Hello, I am trying to install a remote starter on my 97 ls400. I got to the point where it cranks, but will not start when pressing the remote start. I might need a relay because of the anti-theft system, but do not have it. So, I was thinking of just disconnecting the anti-theft system. Does anyone where the wires are located for the anti-theft, or have a diagram. Thanks.

Okay, now I know for sure what the problem was. One of the plug wires had a cut in the rubber. I'm guessing it must have gotten cut when I put the cover over the wires. I could hear a clicking sound coming from that area and it was contacting the engine. I taped it up and made sure it was not touching the engine and i'ts good to go.

Hello, I'm not sure why my signature says '95, i'ts a '97. When the code said random misfire I figured it might be a coil or a cap, but when the second code showed just one cylinder misfiring I figured it might be just a wire or a plug. The resistance for the passenger side coil was within spec, the driver side was not as accessible. Anyway, I had the right side cover off in preparation to check for spark at night, but was too tired last night. This morning I took the driver side cover off and the idle smoothed out. I don't know, but maybe one of the wires was arcing with the cover on and stopped when I took it off. I knew it had to be pertaining to the wires because it was working fine for a couple of days after I put them on. Whew! I just barely avoided taking it somewhere.

Hello, my car starting running rough and I got a cel. I got the code read as random misfire (did not write down the code numbers). I had washed the engine a day or two before, so I figured it was related. I had not changed plugs or wires in the 2 years that i've owned the car, so I replaced the plugs with no change. (There was signs of corrosion in a few of the spark plug tubes). Then I replaced the wires and that seemed to fix the problem. After a couple of days of driving fine, it starting running rough again, but not as bad as the first time. I got the code read as a misfire in cylinder 4. I have the plugs gapped at around .43, and I rechecked all the wires. Also, I put in new rotors and cleaned up the caps. Has this been a problem for anyone? Any suggestions?

Are there?

I spent a short amount of time on the net and could not find prices on a coil spring. Is this something I need to get at a junk yard or a stealership?

No air suspension (as far as I know). Also are there struts in front and shocks in back?

I have been concerned about the suspension on my car since I bought it a few months back. When we first got it there was a noise when going over a sharp dip in the road. I notified the dealership where I bought it, and they said they replaced one of the front struts. I can't even remember which one, but the noise is still there. I have read some postings on the subject and will tackle that later. Anyway, I was looking at the ride height at all four tires, and the front looks even on both sides. The back left tire I can barely fit three fingers between the tire and fender. On the back right, I can easily fit four fingers. My question is does the side that is lower need a new strut? What is the normal distance between the tire and fender? Is it an easy job for a DIY'fer with a spring clamp? Thanks!

Thanks everyone, The car is running fine now after I had put the new battery. I was just confused with the low idle on that first startup after I installed it. Once I turned it off and on again, it idled fine. The other 3 door locks are operating fine, it is just the driver's door. In this case would it be just the motor going out? Or, is there some kind of electrical switch or something else it could also be? And before I forget, does anyone know where I can get a single motor inexpensive? A website that sells them maybe.

The alternator checks out and the fuses are all good. Would there be a need to reprogram the remote? Is it the door lock motor? Where is it located on the door?

Hello, the car usually starts up right quick, but once when I took a drive, it hesitated, then again on my way back home it hesitated. Next time I tried to start it, I got click, click, click. My car is a '97 ls400, I reset the computer after I took the battery out by stepping on the brake to make sure there was no more juice. I put in a new battery, and the first time the car started, but it idled really low. I drove it around the block and it stalled when I pulled into the driveway. I turned it off and restarted it and it idled back where it should be. Is there anything special that needs to be done when resetting the computer, and why did it idle low when it first started? Aside from that, I don't know if it is related or not, but it happened right after I put in the new battery----my door lock on the driver's door does'nt work now, either with the remote or the lock/unlock switch. What would I replace for this and where is it? Thanks Somebody has to have had this problem before, please help.