jtbel

While trying to fix a cam sensor problem on my car, in which one of the symptoms was a miss on the highway, I cleaned the crankshaft sensor. I was changing the timing belt at the time, so I don't know exactly what was making the cam sensor code come back even after I had changed it, but my crank sensor was caked with about an 1/8th inch of gunk. It may not make a difference, but it is fairly easy to get to, from the bottom front of the car.

Well, the car has about 160,000 miles, and the belt had a bunch of small cracks and was very shiny, so I would assume that it was the original belt because going by the "every 90,000 mile" table, I doubt it would look that bad if it was the second belt. And yes, I installed the belt just as you described.

Well guys I got it to work! Wow, what a difference! It drives like a brand new car. I'm pretty positive that the belt markings were off. If I were to do it again, I would'nt bother turning the crank 50 degrees. As long as you use some chicken wire going through the back of the cams to hold them steady, until you have the belt on. I would have to say that doing the timing belt seemed like it was a bit easier than changing the starter. Anyway, I had previously changed the plugs, wires, rotors, caps, and radiator, so it really drives like new. The symptoms I had were a code for the driver's cam sensor that kept coming back, would not start from cold without giving it gas, pinging during acceleration, and a miss at highway speed. I did'nt know if a new timing belt would fix it, but it was really cracked and shiny already, so I was planning to do it anyway. Either it jumped a tooth out of time, or the belt was stretching too much. Anyway, it was a very good result. Thanks especially to Paul for sending me the online manual.

I am definitely thinking the belt markings are off. It is not OEM. I should find out today.

Thanks a bunch guys! No, I'm not starting anything until everything aligns. That's probably true that if you don't rotate the 50 degrees, then you don't need markings on the belt at all. As long as the crank is at "0", and the cam pulleys align with the rear plates. I guess at this point, I will just put the crank at "0", take off the belt, then align the cam pulleys with the rear plates. I will use some wire to hold the cams in place, just to be safe until the belt is back on. I still can't understand how it is supposed to line up after rotating it 50 degrees, because it obviously did'nt work in my case.

Thanks for the great looking pic. By the way that you had the cam pulleys aligned with the rear plates and the belt marks, I would have to assume that you did not rotate the crank 50 degrees from "0". Am I right? Because if you had, the cam pulleys would have been about 25 degrees to the right of the rear plate marks. I'm also assuming that the pic was taken before you rotated the crank twice to check timing. Because I think after you rotate twice, the belt marks no longer align with the cam pulleys. Please let me know if you did or did not rotate the crank 50 degrees from "0", so that I may try that, because right now I am rotating it the 50 degrees (as the manual states), and it does not line up. Thanks

I was just looking at that. When turning the crank 50 degrees clockwise, my cams also turn, just like is shown. Then I install the belt like shown on the crank, then align the left and right cams with the marks on the belt, just like shown. At this point the crank pulley is still 50 degrees right from "0". So then I rotate twice, and the cams align with the rear plates, but the crank mark is at the 3rd mark before "0" (just left of the "10"). If I put crank mark at "0", then the cams will be right of the rear plate marks. I did it exactly as shown, the only thing I can think of is maybe the marks on wrong on the belt.

On my 97 LS400, I had the cam pulley marks aligned with the marks at the cam rear plates. And, the crankshaft pulley mark at "0". Then I turned the crank 50 degrees clockwise. I removed old belt and installed new one. I put the bottom belt mark with the circle indention on the crank pulley, then aligned the left and right cam pulley marks with the belt marks. The problem is when I rotate the crank twice, the cam pulleys are only aligned with the rear plates, when the crank mark is on the most left notch (just left of the "10")instead of the "0". I checked it twice. Is this right or what did I do wrong? Thanks

Take off the all the air tubing and filter all the way to the throttle body. Take off the black spark plug covers (4 bolts each). Wires and plugs are accessible. Caps and rotors just need to be unscrewed. Rotors have a notch they fit into, so they should not be put on wrong. Just make sure the plug wires are secure and not interfering with the timing belt.

I have the same problem. My timing belt is definitely due for a change, so I will be changing it very soon. Will post results.

I was getting the same code. I replaced the drivers side cam sensor. Also, the coolant temp sensor and the seafoam treatment (just for maintenance purposes). The car runs fine now, but the code still keeps coming up. Might not be related but, during this same time period, I started having to give it gas until the car warms up, then it runs fine. I had replaced the iacv, no change. I'm thinking maybe the temp sensor I installed was junk or maybe an air leak from when I replaced the starter (I did'nt use new intake gaskets). Any other suggestions for the cold start problem would help. Thanks

I had replaced the starter a few months back, and I reused the gaskets. So, a vacuum leak is a very real possibility. Once the car is warm, it will run fine. Though I have'nt checked recently, what I can't understand is why the code for the driver side cam sensor kept popping up shortly after erasing it. I had just installed a new sensor. One would think that it is working properly given that once the car is warm it drives fine. I'm not sure, but I don't think the cam sensor would be related to a cold start issue.

Anybody have any ideas of where the fuel pressure should be checked?

I picked up a fuel pressure gauge. I did'nt see a schrader valve on the fuel rail. Can someone tell me the easiest place to connect the gauge (front or back, left side or right side), to check the fuel pressure. Thanks

Thanks a bunch for the reply. I made sure both of the iacv's were clean. I changed out the sensor with the 2 wires ( I believe the one going to the ecu). The other sensor has one wire ( I believe for the gauge). The throttle body is clean. The fuel pressure is a good idea, how would I do that? Where would I connect the gauge, and what should the pressure be? By the way, I just changed the fuel filter.

Any mechanics around? I prefer to fix it myself instead of taking it somewhere. Thanks

I am having to give it gas on start up to prevent stalling until it is warm. I replaced the coolant temperature sensor with a new one. And, the iacv with a used one, with no change. Will the egr valve cause this problem? And if so, even though the egr pipe is blocked off? If not, what else could cause this cold start up problem? After a couple minutes when it warms up, it will run fine.

From Autozone.

Thank for the reply. Is there a way to check it? I had replaced it about 2 months back.

I am having to give it gas until the engine warms up. This is only when engine is cold. If not the engine will shut off. What parts can be attributed to this problem? I already cleaned the iacv as best I could. How do you test it to see if it still works? Other than the iacv, what part could be at fault? Thanks

I am able to keep the car running when I start it now by pressing the gas pedal. After a couple minutes it will stay running by itself. The car will drive just fine, but when put in park, the idle goes up and down, but not too badly. I cleaned the IACV, and it seems to have helped a bit, but is still not idling right. Other than the IACV, what else can I look at to fix the idle? I have recently replaced: plugs, wires, rotors, caps, and coils are within spec. Also, I am still getting code P0340 after changing the driver's side cam sensor.

I am getting code P0340 even after replacing the sensor. The code says sensor "A", bank "1". I replaced the sensor on the driver's side, was that the correct one? If it was the correct one, how would I go about checking the wiring from the computer? I was driving the car for a short period yesterday with the check engine light on, it was driving fine except for a little rough idling. Then, this morning the car would start for like a second, and then shut off. Just seems weird that it was at least running yesterday, then won't stay running today. Thanks for your responses.

Need some help still. I cleaned as many connectors as I could. It starts up good, but just dies after a few seconds every time. I have'nt tested the coils yet, but what would make it shut off like that?

Thanks for your response. It is a daily driver, so it should have good gas in it. I will try to clean up a few electrical connections, and make sure they are making good contact. I can use some more suggestions as to what may cause this problem. Thanks How do you test the coils?

What was the outcome on this?