SC300Drifter

CENSORED BY MODERATOR It all goes back to what I stated in the first post: Please:if you dont have something positive to say please leave your comment to yourself.

I would love to keep it on the track all the time but I simply cannot afford the track fee of $50-100 along with gas a tank is, and tires (which go very fast because of weight of the SC), and regular maintance. It just kills my wallet. I am working towards getting it on the track for good someday but that is at least another year or 2 out. So far I have been drifting the SC for 4 years now and havent put it in a ditch yet... *knock on wood* .I learned how to drive with the 14 Toyota Corolla GT-S's I have/have owned over the years and back then drifting wasnt as main stream as it is now. The tracks wouldnt even let you drift on em until a couple years ago! lol. I just learned on the road but I do agree it is more suited for the track.

Hey guys! Here is a little clip of me drifting my 93 Lexus SC300 5-speed. I have had it for 4 years and absolutly love this car. It has a fresh 2JZ & clutch (The original engine made it 200k miles with track days and high rpm driving so I decided to pull it, still ran like a champ!), Diazen swaybars, cross drilled slotted rotors, ebc greenstuff pads, I cut (not torched) the stock springs, custom aluminum diff bushings, bfi intake.... pretty much just the cheap mods everything else is stock including the non lsd rear end which I just blew out so the car is stationary for now. Someday the car will be built properly and I will be satisfied.... *sigh*anyways heres the video guys. Please:if you dont have something positive to say please leave your comment to yourself. Thanks

Yeah I would agree it is definatly an engine sourced from an automatic because of the flexplate and also the TRAC throttle body. On my US 2JZ the EGR comes out of the head right next to the 6th runner on the intake manifold and runs up to the Y-pipe directly after my throttle body. The JDM 2JZ intake manifold has an EGR block plate that is actually part of the manifold itself (one piece) and the Y-pipe after the throttle body has no spot for an EGR at all. I would prefer to keep the JDM manifold on if at all possible, I realize I will have to change my throttle body and various sensors, tps etc. Does my EGR send a signal to my ecu? What would happen If I did keep the JDM manifold and Y-pipe on the engine just to disable the EGR? Thanks for your help

Well 2 weeks ago I developed a rod knock at 203k miles. I have purchased a JDM 2JZ-GE and am getting ready to install it. Visually I can see several things that are different. The new engine has TRAC written on the throttle body, there is no EGR valve, and this engine has a flexplate instead of a flywheel. I am unsure of what parts are compatible and which arent. What things are different and what is needed to be done to make this install go smooth? Thanks

Thanks for the response guys. I am not sure what is making this noise now. I replaced the throwout bearing but that didn't solve anything. I initially thought it was related to that because the sound would stop if I pushed the clutch pedal in, the sound seems to be pretty constant under 2k rpms and it silences out after that. My car isnt smoking and doesnt have a loss of power but this noise sounds very bad. It doesnt sound like a rod knock so I am stumped as to what it could be. If I turn the car over without the ignition wire going to the dizzy, you can hear the noise pretty good. I am trying to remove my valve covers right now to see if maybe something is damaged in there. I have removed my throttle body and have loosened my valve covers but am having trouble with a bolt on the intake manifold that holds the y-pipe, (the pipe between the throttle body and manifold). The bolt that I cant reach is closest to the firewall on the underside of the pipe. I dont know how to access this bolt. Any info will help. I attached some sounds of my engine as well. I will try to get better quality tonight. Thanks for the response guys. I am not sure what is making this noise now. I replaced the throwout bearing but that didn't solve anything. I initially thought it was related to that because the sound would stop if I pushed the clutch pedal in, the sound seems to be pretty constant under 2k rpms and it silences out after that. My car isnt smoking and doesnt have a loss of power but this noise sounds very bad. It doesnt sound like a rod knock so I am stumped as to what it could be. If I turn the car over without the ignition wire going to the dizzy, you can hear the noise pretty good. I am trying to remove my valve covers right now to see if maybe something is damaged in there. I have removed my throttle body and have loosened my valve covers but am having trouble with a bolt on the intake manifold that holds the y-pipe, (the pipe between the throttle body and manifold). The bolt that I cant reach is closest to the firewall on the underside of the pipe. I dont know how to access this bolt. Any info will help. I attached some sounds of my engine as well. I will try to get better quality tonight. VerizonW.wav rattle.wav

My 1993 Lexus SC300 5-speed just started making this horrible very loud rattling noise at idle all the way up to 2k rpms. When I press the clutch in the noise stops but with the clutch out the noise is very scary. After searching the site I found that many of you said this was the release bearing (throwout bearing). I was curious about how loud was your release bearing? What will be the result of driving the car for 2 more days until the part is in? I just had my clutch replaced 8 months ago, does it seem feesible for this to go out in that amount of time? When I do replace the release bearing is there anything else I should replace at the time? Thanks guys.

Ah I see, now would that be from the car being lowered and the cv pushing into the diff housing? Do you know how much this bearing costs or a good place to pick them up? Thanks, I was lost there for a minute. I have drifted about 8 corners since I put the axle in and it still hasnt popped out.

If the car is on the ground and you violently shake the left or right wheel you can feel slight play from side to side, but if I have the car off the ground and shake the wheel I cannot feel even the slightest bit of play. I dont have any strange noises coming from either wheel either, my diff started to howl when it was leaking fluid but it has quited up now. If the vehicle is lowered wouldn't that give the axles even more travel? My axles arent completly horizontal and stock hieght would set them at a decent angle. I just cant see wheel bearing play or ride hieght with stock bumpstops allowing these factory parts to touch. Maybe I am just too damn hard on this thing. Is there a clip on the end of the axle much like a standard cv for a front wheel drive vehicle? Thanks for the tips guys.

The seal is still intact and sealing quite well now that the axle is back in the differential housing. What bearing are you talking about? The wheel bearing? Why would the wheel bearing affect my axle seal? Im a little confused on your advice? I appreciate your input though, most definatly.

Well heres what I found out. My diff cover wasn't the culprit at all, my axle had actually pulled out of the differential housing allowing it to spill fluid out. The only thing I can thing that would cause this is just simply all the bushings in the rear end are actually working against me now . I primarily drift left hand corners on my daily drive so I guess it all makes since seeing as how my toe link is rubbing the inside of my stock wheel on the back right so naturally the left wheel would be pulling away from the car with those kinds of forces being applied. Either way it is definatly time to get some heim joints and hard mounts every single place possible. Has anyone ever ran into this kind of problem? I attached 2 pictures, one of my axle just like it was when I initially saw it, and the other is of where my toe link is rubbing the wheel. They are both very unclear pics, but it gives a better idea of whats going on.

When I get underneath the car everything looks symetrical, I was just under there last week putting new end links on my rear sway, I dont know how I missed the marks on the wheel. I know my bushings feel exactly like a marshmallow, seriously, never felt anything like it. Im not so sure that I do have a control arm bent though. Do you have any idea what I could measure with a set of calipers to find out if it is bent? I have a tendency to drift left hand corners alot faster than right hand corners, and it is the wheels on the passenger rear that has the marks on it. I am almost wondering if maybe my wheel bearings are going just enough to work with my bushings to allow that toe rod to hit the rim. There is about .5" space between both toe rods and the lower part of the wheel, but I would say that the scars on it are about .100". My diff seems to be holding up fine, after doing some more research I guess I need to just pull it out of there and RTV a new "gasket" on there, but seeing as how fluid is only on the drivers side of the vehicle I think there might be an axle seal that is shot. I could see that being a possibility because from the looks of it when I set a drift to the left the passenger rear wheel is flexing .5" which would push/pull the drivers side wheel outwards, away from the diff giving it the opportunity to spew oil all over the place. I have been doing alot of compression drops to set the car before the corner, so I think that might have stressed the rearend beyond its limits. I will post some pics of whats going on later today. Thanks for the prompt response.

Whats going on guys. I got out of my car yesterday and noticed the smell of burnt gear oil, so I crawled underneath my car and checked it out. Everything from the center of the diff to the left was covered in gear oil. I am still awaiting to get the car off the ground to fully inspect it as it is too low to get underneath. I am not sure where the fluid is coming out at or why for that matter, so if anyone has had a problem like this I would appreciate some info. I know my rear subframe bushings are shot, and I plan on buying (or making) the Supra aluminum hard mounts. When I grab 2nd or 3rd gear there is a very very loud clunk/knock that comes from the rear-end. That has been going on for about 5 months, so I have been trying to take it easy on it until I can find the dimensions for the bushings. About 2 weeks ago I had a buddy go on a drive with me and when we stopped he said that sparks were coming from my rear-end but couldn't pin point exactly where they were coming from. In the 2 weeks I have had 3 people see these sparks as well. I go through a set of rear tires a month and had just replaced them before the drive so I know it wasn't belts from my tires. When I got underneath my car to check out the differential I noticed that the inside of my wheel has a wear mark from my toe rod (i think thats what it is), its the closest thing to the inside of my wheel. I am not sure how everything is flexing enough to allow this to happen seeing as how I am using the stock wheels, so clearance should not be an issue. I compete in drift events regularly and drift daily so I know that is definatly not helping the fact. To sum it all up my rear bushings are shot, my right side toe arm is rubbing on my wheel when I drift and now I have no diff fluid. Can anyone give me an explanation or some advice as to what is going on here? The car is my primary drift car and I intend to keep it that way so not drifting is not an option. With that said, I could really use some advice. Thanks guys.

Hey I have been trying to get ahold of Xerd for about 3 months now and they just keep dickin me around. I have noticed the IS300 header on ebay for around $200. Where did you purchase yours from? What kind of gains did you get, or notice, if any at all. Thanks a bunch man.

I am selling my 1993 Lexus SC300 stock sway bars, mounts, bushings and end links. These are stock. The bushings look good but should probobly be replaced. Taking offers. I just installed Daizens! I live in Washington so I can deliver localy or ship out of state. I can provide pictures of any part in detail or all parts. If anyone is interested PM me or just give me a call at 253-720-3644.

Price has been reduced to $100 minimum for both, I am now taking offers at this time. Pics are available to anyone that asks and sound clip/video feed might be a possibilty if needed. These components are in great condition and must be sold. Thanks guys.