waf102

I have come across a "Premium NEW" model from Carquest for just under $200. This not there "OE" model...nor is it their "Proven VALU" model (there remanuf. version). It appears to rank in the middle. I am assuming that it will be the best price/performance choice if I go that way. Has to better than these Duralasts (famous last words, eh?)

That has been my though. But with a little effort new ones can be had for a little more. Way less than what I have spend just towing my car back home... I can't believe they don't replace the electronics. Woop-tee-doo...they test them. How much life has been used up already? Based on my brief investigation, the Duralast stuff seems to get a lot of complaints. Still, it may be a good value for a population - most will win - but I lost a lot more than if I would have bought an after-market new. And not just money...time. Thanks for the comments... -Bill P.S. Remanuf. parts could be great...but companies will cut every corner to increase profit (not that I hate profit). I have worked in those environments. Lots of customers get screwed. Short term gain (best margin on crappy product) vs. long term loss (customers don't want to come back or bad word of mouth). I have come to think that "Limited Life Time Warranty" translates to "Good luck sucker!"

Gotta make this short. Replaced alternator in 1990 Lexus ls400 back in Feb. It crapped out and killed my batter on the 4th of July...when I was FAR from home. Local shop tried to screw me with a $1000 starter job (???). Towed car home... I really don't feel comfortable getting my free replacement alternator from Autozone (it was a Duralast with Limited Life). I'm limited as far as time and options. I can get a manufactured CarQuest alternator for $183. Guy said the components are new...I asked about electronics...he said yes, those too. (Remaned by a Co. called ERE) Anyone have experience or an opinion? I'm between jobs...can't afford a new. But I can't afford to break down on a way to a job interview either! THANKS!

Need adive on replacing trunk latch/actuator module. I already have used replacement parts... Any one have to do this before? Comments? Advice? Also, advice on best way to take out the trunk lid linning. Don't want to mess it up or break anything... What tools procedure are best? Any input would be appreciated as I have to do this fast under less than idea circumstances (and don't have the $ to spend on this...) Thank you! -Bill

Latch on trunk won't latch. The little hook can be easily moved with my finger. BTW...The trunk release works fine. It just APPEARS to be the latch. Any advice? Quick/cheap fixes? Who to take it to? No dealer close by...(plus I don't want to get reamed...) This sucks. Thanks in advance! -Bill

Well, I hope your right...but I can't find it. Not even using google. These are the sections at www.irontaod.com BMW Parts Lexus Parts Toyota Parts Scion Parts I'm at a loss to find Nissan Part...I think I will email them... Thanks, -Bill

I am familiar with a few of the ones that are recommended in other threads like irontoad and lexuspartsonline...but they don't have nissan parts. A lot of the ones i found on google seem to have a crappy selection...ugh! If you have any you think would be helpful or have "sister" sites for nissan parts I would be very grateful! -Bill p.s. Plus I fear I will needing a new starter on my ls soon (NO!!!!) So if any are good places for getting the gaskets, etc I should replace during that...I might as well get some recommendations now ;-)

Thanks, but I posted to this forum because I was looking for personal recommendations based on other's experiences. Google does not rank the trustworthiness or value in a way a personal recommendation might. But thanks for that suggestion. -Bill

Hi folks... Doing some work on a 1993 Nissan Maxima (Control Arms, Struts, Tie Rod ends...etc...) and need some recommendations for a quality online parts suppliers with good prices. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! -Bill

How about a PDF for starter removal of a 1990... I have the Lexus Workshop Manual...but they have you refer to the cylinder head removal instructions (EM-39 to 44) There has to be a better way than removing everything from the timing pulleys to the intake manifolds...my god! Please someone give me some hope! PLEASE!!!!!!!

Had the same problem. This fixed it right up. Had to do it again a year later, but that was expected. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...p;hl=trac+flush Also, search "trac light" and "trac flush" for additional discussions. There are a few other possibilities, but the fix I'm recommending works most of the time from what I've heard/seen. Apparently no one take the time to flush the brake lines then dirt gets stuck in the check valves and disables the trac. That fluid was FILTHY...it was nasty. Good luck and keep us updated on your progress. -Bill

Well... I don't think it IS oil. Reddish, oily (not slimy like coolant), clearish, and slightly sweet smelling...completely evaporated when I drove the car about 7-8 miles today. Left a white-ish residue on the bottom of the oil pan where the 'drip' accumulated. SO...Is it a power steering leak OR a transmission fluid leak along the cooler line??? Any guesses? -B

I don't drive my car during the week...but every other weekend or so I put about 400-500 miles (round-trip) visiting family. I am usually set cruise at 60 mph but occasional take it up to 75 or 80 to get away from packs of trucks and other drivers. Last weekend, I passed a couple of trucks going up a long hill and my "Add engine oil" light came on for maybe 5-10 sec. I reached a top speed of 80 mph. I took my foot off the gas and the light went off a few seconds later. I checked my oil level and it was fine. 3/4 of the way to F on the next to impossible to read dipstick. I haven't driven it for 5 days and looked under the car this morning and noticed a small oil spot. Maybe 3/4 the size of a coffee mug on a pitted black top parking lot surface. The oil is dripping (dripping is too dramatic of a word...) down off the front-drivers-side corner of oil pan #2. Actually it is dripping down off the 2nd ridge in the pan from that corner (corner => ridge 1 => ridge 2) Any ideas about where this leak might be coming from? Pan seal? Oil Pump? Somewhere higher up? (Oil looks pretty clean on my finger...a little reddish tint...IT IS THE OIL, RIGHT?) I haven't detected any obvious burning oil smells during this last trip (sniffed around pretty good behind car and under the hood at the end of my trip). It has been 4k since my last oil change and this looks to be the first sign of the leak. Used Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic this time. Used Mobil Synthetic for over a year before that (and Dino before that). I change it around every 5k. Went 6k once with Mobil 1 Synthetic. 169,000 miles. No major work done in this area. This kinda stuff gives me an ulcer. Any info (good or bad) would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, -Bill

Howdy, Just wondering if any one has any recommendations (warnings) about mechanics who have experience working on LS400's. Looking for somebody I can trust to do things right in Central PA (State College) or Western PA (Beaver County). Thanks in advance for any input. -Bill

Well, she bought it at a craft supply joint called "Pat Catan's" outside of Pittsburgh, PA (Aliquippa). But I have been googling away and I see that Jo-Ann Fabrics has it and there are some sites that sell quilting (etc) supplies that have it. She paid $5 for it, but Jo-Ann's sells it for $3.99. Its's 2 Fluid Oz. We (ok, my mother...) just sprayed the area w/ water, put a few drops on the carpet, and scrubbed it with an old wash cloth (or "worsh-rag" as we say in western PA). She made sure to keep using a clean part of the cloth because the dirt collected on the rag pretty quickly. The website for the company is www.grandmassoap.com , they sell them in lots of 6 for $27+ I only wish I would have thought to take "before" pictures so I could post them here with "after" pictures! -Bill

Has anyone used "Grandma's Secret Spot Remover"??? My mother got some because my dad said he read something about it being a miricle worker on fabrics. Well, today she was going to help me clean my mats and clean up a stain from an old coffee spill (on the main carpet) with Woolite, etc... But she said she wanted to try this new stuff, and since my front mats are crap...why not. Damn...I swear this is no commercial...but I can't believe what this stuff did. Like those "Oxy" infomercials. Right before our eyes. This stuffs non toxic...so I guess nothing in it will eat my carpets up or choke me with toxic fumes. But I have never tried anything that has worked this well. Anyone else use it...and have problems down the road??? -Bill

Well...I had the whole brake system flushed. Man...was it dirty. Looked like my oil! Anyway...drum roll....My trac problem is gone! Light does not come on any more...trac seems to work fine (found a gravel road). Actually, it may work better...but that might be my imagination...hehe So, flushing and replacing old fluid seems to be a fix for some cases of the 'trac-light' problem. I don't the mechanics will believe it. They were pretty sure it was going to be a sensor. (quick question - are the the sensor for the trac the same ones for the abs?) So thanks to all those who posted elsewhere this quick and CHEAP ($42.50) fix. Beats some of the $800-$1500 estimates I've seen in other posts. -Bill

I fear it may never have been flushed (the whole system). I'm hoping that a flush of the brake lines (and the trac and abs) will stop my TRAC light from coming on and staying that way (until I restart the car...) This ""fix" has been suggested in many other posts (and it is the cheapest of the fixes!) I just would like to be able to point out the two bleed valves in the engine compartment so the mechanic doesn't have to fish around for them.

I'm going to have my brake fluid flushed this coming weekend by my Dad's mechanic (long relationship...guy won't BS us if he doesn't know what to do). I'm doing this because it looks like it may have never been done (Stuff is black as coal) and I have been having trouble with my TRAC disabling itself (yes, I have read the other threads on the various reason...great info...thanks all). I want to make sure the mechanic bleeds the Trac pump accumulator and the abs pumpmotor as mentioned in other posts. One of the other posts has a picture but I have not found it instructive (sorry!). 1.) Does anyone have any pics or diagrams of where these bleed valves so I can be sure to point them out to the mechanic &... 2.) Does any one have any other advice they think might be usefull in this situation? Thanks in advance (I'd be lost with out this board)!!! -Bill

I have come to believe that these Falkens are a real price/performance winner. But I gotta ask, how do they look? They seem a little too low profile to look "classy on" an LS400. Sure, my Contiextreme's had a crappy sidewall, but that was only if your were really paying attention. (BTW...I really liked those...anybody have had both?...how do they compare?) Does any one have (or can take) pics of them on your car and can post them? That might help win me over all the way. (Plus...anybody know who has the best prices on 'em?) Thanks. Bill 90 ls400

I thought I forgot how to multipy and divide...but I have been getting 28-30 MPG (200 mile trip - no start and stop) on a non-crowded highway doing 45-50 mph. I don't mind cars passing me...after all, why should I be in a hurry when I have such a comfy ride! -Bill

Here is some interesting info... "MTBE has been used in U.S. gasoline at low levels since 1979 to replace tetra-ethyl lead to increase its octane rating and help prevent engine knocking. Since 1992, MTBE has been used at higher concentrations in some gasoline to fulfill the oxygenate requirements set by Congress in Clean Air Act amendments; however, since 1999, in California and other locations MBTE has begun to be phased out because of its health risk related to widespread groundwater contamination (California Air Resources Board, 2004). The Energy Policy Act of 2005 drops the federal requirement for oxygen content in reformulated gasoline [1]. "Oxygen helps gasoline burn more completely, reducing harmful tailpipe emissions from pre-1984 motor vehicles. In more modern vehicles, the emissions reduction is negligible. In one respect, the oxygen dilutes or displaces gasoline components such as aromatics (e.g. benzene) and sulfur. In another, oxygen optimizes the oxidation during combustion. Most refiners have chosen to use MTBE over other oxygenates primarily for its blending characteristics and for economic reasons." ...Well, from the way I read it, oxygenates (e.g. MTBE, Ethanol) may have little effect on our 'Lexi'...in other words - they run clean w/o it. Anyone out there with a chemistry/fuel science backround??? Looking at the $$$ of crude oil, we all need to get educated fast. -B

Help!...advice needed. I have a 90 ls400 (153 K). I have recently noticed a "gurgling" sound that lasts the better part of 10 seconds coming from behind the back seat right when I start the car. It may have been happening for much longer, but I must admit I usually have the radio on and the gurgling can't be heard if the radio is on at 'normal' volume levels. I wonder if it has anything to do with what seems like a large vacuum forming in the gas tank. When I remove the gas cap there is a large sucking sound...lasts up to 5 seconds. I believe it is sucking and not blowing because of the releative absence of "gas smell". Does this indicate that the vent in the gas cap or the gas cap gasket needs replaced? I understand that the cap is designed to let air into the tank. Is this putting undue stress on my fuel pump (just speculating...) I notice no other affects on the performance of my car. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! -Bill

This is great thanks for all the info. These boards and you folks are such a great resource. I do need a slight clarification. To reiterate, I use my car 2 or 3 times on weekend (1-3 stops on each trip) and drive atleast 10 miles on each trip. During the week I drive it on average once. So...I may leave my car sit for 2-4 days between starts (during the week). My concern is how much "wear and tear" I put on the engine by letting it sit that long in the cold weather. I know that "theoretically" starting the engine is the time that there is the least amount of lubrication (oil) in the engine and may be the hardest on the engine. Does enough of the oil (Mobil1 synthetic, 5w-30) drain out of the engine in cold weather over that many days to be "bad" for the engine. I guess there isn't much I can do otherwise, but I am just generally curious about it... -Bill B)

Winter is here (rats!) My Ls-400 will have to endure this winter outdoors. I live in Central PA and was wondering what preperations or things any of you folks do to lessen the imapct of leaving your car out in the wintery weather. Details: It will be outside, no chance of finding a place to store it. It will NOT be used daily. 2 or 3 trips on weekends and once during the week. I makea trip to visit home about once every 4-6 weeks. That trip is about 180 miles one-way. I did recently put in Mobil1 Synthetic. Fluids check out. Should I consider a car cover? Factoring snow and ice can that damage the finish? My father suggests starting it daily, or at the very least every other day. I think he worrys about the battery (he's been bugging me about disabling the security system...he believes it will run down the battery.) Given how much I drive it, how often should I go out and turn it over? I'm concerned about how hard on the engine starting it up when its 20 or 30 degrees (F) is... When the weather is really bad I'm just not driving it. I will leave it parked...mostly afraid of the idiots out there running into me. Any products I should condsider, or practices I should adopt? I like taking care of my stuff...the more I do the longer it lasts and the better it performs. It wouldn't break my heart if I never had to buy another car. :D