BlexusGS

I was browsing the internet a couple of weeks ago and came across Lextreme.com. They offer 3 different types of engines specifically for the GS models 98-05 w/warranty! These engines are INSANE!!! Ranging from 500 HP and up; all NA! Now, just out of curiosity why is it that fellow Clublexus and LOC members choose to either supercharge or turbocharge their vehicles (that already have high mileage on them, in some instances) instead of buying one of these specifically made engines for our vehicles? These engines start at about $5,500; with install you'll probably wind up paying $7,000 but for a moster of a performance engine! I understand that superchargers and turbochargers are around this price range as well only they require tuning (in most instances) and you are adding them onto your existing motor.... so I ask... why go FI over this alternative??? All input will be very exciting to hear! ;)

Nick

Hello,

As many of you might know from my previous posts I own a GS400. Why is it everytime I clean and re-oil my K & N intake filter the car runs AMAZING; great low-end power with almost a boost-like thrust for only about 1 hour??? After that it literally feels exactly how it did before? I don't understand, is the ECU re-learning back to stock. I have done the ECU resetting before but it just seems like it is only a matter of a short while until the ECU kicks back to stock readings again. Anyway around this madness??? Maybe a chip (if someone even makes a chip). What about JET performance (send-in type ECU reprogram service). Your input will be greatly appreciated!

Nick

I have a 2000 GS400. I bought an OEM spoiler w/ the LED about 2 years ago. I have been noticing that the corner of the spoiler has stress marks :( (almost like hair-line cracks about 3" long). The car is black and once wax gets in there it stands out even more so. Anyway, my question... is there any other type/brand of spoiler that I can replace mine with that will still cover the holes that were made on my trunk lid? ;)

Thanks,

Nick

Thanks for the help. I found the below listing on-line...is this what you suggest or what I need?

"this is in good working order and came off a US SPEC 6 speed Supra Turbo with 95k miles of use."

NOTE: THIS IS ONLY FOR THE INNER DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY. this does not include the external housing better known as the pumkin.

What do you think?

Nick

Great! Thanks for the response, I think you covered everything I asked! If you don't mind I just have a couple of questions about the gears, you seem very knowledgeable.

I realize that I want 3.76 gears (rear diff gears); does that mean I have to get an LSD such as the one sold @ L-tuned.com for $1,699?

Do I have to buy an LSD unit in order to have these 3.76 gears?

Does the LSD come with the 3.76 gears included or do I have to buy these gears separately?

Does the GS400 come stock with an LSD?

I am totally clueless when it comes to rear diffs and LSD's (aren't they the same thing?). Also, By researching what an LSD does I'm not sure if I will benefit from my (kind of stock) car. Doesn't it transfer the power from the slipping wheels to the grabbing wheels on launches and cornering? If so my car never even breaks the tires from a stand still, I'm not sure if I need something that will increase my traction. What am I not getting here? Please help! Oh, and I understand there is another option you mentioned of getting gears from an older turbo Supra, not sure if I want to do that though - eventhough there is large cost savings. I will probably have my local dealership install these gears.

Nick

SK, your probably right. I must have mistaken what a BFI actually was from things I have read. Thanks for the good comment though. I like this mod because it's an easy DIY and your car still "looks" stock. Standing about 8 - 10' away from the car you wouldn't even know if the "slide" was open or closed (because it's down so low).

Nick

New big 400 - can you please respond. It would be of great help!

Thanks

So was this part of your original intake mod, or were you driving around for awhile with the snorkel exposed (as in the "slide open" pics)?

No, The area was completely closed off (as if the "slide" was closed) and I definitely noticed enhanced gains from my original K & N CAI with the heat shield (just like your SRT). Now it's even better with the option to open it up for enhanced direct air flow. I'm telling you at highway speeds there is a big difference in pull. I was at 70mph the other day and got up to 110mph a lot quicker than normal (hence the ram air effect works better as you go faster).

Nick

Here are the pics!

The first pic is with the "plastic plate" closed (close-up)

Plastic plate open

Plastic plate open (close-up)

Plastic plate open

Plastic plate closed

Driver side comparison

I still have to put some type of screen element in place to protect the filter fom heavy debris such as rocks/pebbles Etc. Also, I would like to fabricate some type of duct inside the inlet to direct the in-coming air flow to the filter. ;) With the "slide" closed air is just natural venting into the void where the filter resides in the wheel well (still a lot colder than engine bay air). You will just have to clean the filter a little more often with the filter in this location.

BTW the pieces of plastic (tabs) on the top of the inlet - do not remove these! They are from the factory and they are the only things that fasten the original plastic piece in place (in case you want to revert back to OEM). I know in these pics my bumper looks like it's been sand blasted (it only takes a couple of time doing 120MPH + to get little pebbles and sand to do that to your paint...LOL I need to get it repainted sooner rather than later (or buy a CF hood) the rest of the car is flawless.

Thanks,

Nick

I removed the plastic covering to the left of the passenger side foglight and fabricated my own "plastic covering" in its place. I then installed two small metal brackets on the bottom and one on the top (set deep inside; not really visible) to create a sliding mechanism for the plastic plate. On rainy days I slide the plate closed looking stock just like the other side (firmly sealed in place). On nice days I slide it open and it is a direct route only about 4" away from my K & N cone filter! I definitely notice a sizable difference in performance especially at speeds of 50mph+! I will post pics as soon as I take them.

Nick

I had the same problem on my 2000 GS400 last year. Bad strut bar bushings; replaced by dealer under warranty. No noise coming from rear anymore.

Thanks bro, you are extremely helpful. I think your car is hooked up exactly how I want to mod my car. I was thinking about new rear gears (3.76) but I don't know too much about it. Please if you wouldn't mind let me know your experience with your gears such as from the above scenerios; dead stop, rolling, freeway etc. What type to get? Price? Would you or did you do this mod before or after the TC?

Also, at freeway speeds of 80mph I am running around 2500RPM's (normal I guess for a stock GS400) what RPM would you say you were at 80mph? I realize more fuel will be consumed but I was also putting into consideration my exhaust (I know at a certain RPM at freeway speeds you sometimes can get the "droning" sound inside the cabin from the exhaust.) Your car sounds like it has a lot done to it, I'm sure you have now intake, exhaust, TC, gears and maybe you just got headers done. Everything but FI, which to me is good. Don't get me wrong FI is good but when you don't have a tuning shop nearby and something goes wrong your screwed! I'd rather bolt on everything I can! How quick would you say your car is given that a stock GS4XX does 14.2 (1/4) and 5.8 (0-60mph)? Just need somethng to look forward to. Cheers!

Thanks

new big400:

If you don't mind could you tell me your experiences with it such as from a dead stop, from a roll, freeway speeds etc. I realize you probably answered this question a lot before but I would appreciate hearing it from you and not through a search. I will be buying this TC in the next week or so.

Also, why is it on some websites the PI TC is a single-disc and other websites show the TC as a multi-disc unit for the years 1998-2000 (I have a 2000). I contacted Precision Industries direct and found out that they are only supposed to be a single-disc unit; I just don't want the wrong one installed. Oh, which do you have a 2800 or 3000 stall? I was told the 3000 might be too high for our cars, is this true?

Thanks for your advice

I know about the tranny cooler. Do you have a TC on your GS400?

Should I get the Precision Industries TC installed at my local Lexus dealer or should I go to a reputable transmission shop that deals with foreign vehicles? Please let me know of any pros and cons of each.

Thanks,

Nick

Knmaynard - The filter I used is a K & N cone style (I think it's like 8" long, 3.5" opening. I'm not sure about the SRT setup, but my K & N FIPK is 3.5" piping. Not sure if the larger piping is worse (it might actually reduce torque and low-end power because there is more volume in the pipe to be filled with air before it rushes into the TB.)

DCfish - So I just spray that delicate parts cleaner directly in the "inlet" to the sensor right? Or do I expose the sensor and clean it? I'm confused... right now I can't see anything in the "inlet" tube (part where air flows into). I can't even tell if it is dirty inside there (or if it has been cleaned fully). Please help!

Just out of curiousity does the MAF sensor come apart? I removed it from the intake pipe (2 allen key screws) and disconnected it from the harness. Sprayed delicate parts cleaner inside and let dry. I then unscrewed 2 other screws on the sensor unit. Does something come apart? The second set of screws did nothing when I took them out; I didn't want to force the unit to come apart. Am I cleaning this thing right?

Thanks

Thanks DCfish for the input. I will clean the pipe and the MAF sensor, I guess that's the sensor that plugs into the intake pipe...am I right? Also, what about the small rubber hoses going into the intake pipe? Clean these as well or should I just leave them alone?

knmaynard - I will contact my friend at my local performance shop, I ordered the parts (piping, couplers, clamps etc.) through him, I will find out for you. There are NO water issues what so ever and I already went through a winter (and heavy rain) here in NY! The heat shield was included with my K & N FIPK intake.

This was a major concern of mine in the beginning so I bought an AEM bypass valve. However, I didn't realize how long the bypass valve was and was unable to get both the filter and bypass valve in the wheelwell as the top of the filter was hitting the bottom of the engine shroud too much (about 2" or so too long) :( My friend at the performance shop said that even if water hits the bottom 1/4 or 1/2 of the filter it will not seize the engine (However, I don't want to take that risk or find out!) So I measured the distance from the street to the bottom of the filter and it was about 9". Meaning that I would have to be driving in a 9" deep puddle to really test the above scenerio. Which I avoid large puddles anyway (eventhough a 9" puddle would look more like a pond/flood in a parking lot!) :) :) Let me know if you need anything else.

Nick

SK, I think I have the problem that you are suggesting. I have a K & N cone style filter on the end of the intake and periodically clean it then re-oil every 5000 Mi. or so. Last time I cleaned it I noticed there was a good amount of oil on the bottom of my engine shroud directly below the intake filter! I guess I am oiling it too much. I also checked the intake piping and it too was oily. However, last time I cleaned the filter I did not take the piping apart to clean it - maybe i should.

What else should I clean?

Did I do any permanent damage?

How excatly does oil on the MAF hurt performance? I have no clue when it comes to this stuff.

Oh, and one other thing, why is it that right after I clean my K & N my car feels so fast; but only for the first 5 minutes? I mean it pulls real hard. Then after that its normal... pulls hard but normal and not as much head snap. Please advise. Thanks again.

I was thinking of taking out the 90 and putting in a 45 through the same hole. I will have to cut into the heat shield at a different angle though in order for it to work. Also, a pic of my car is attached. Now that I know how to upload pics I will upload more pics later! I love the GS series!

Nick

I will take pics nd upload them tonight. Thanks guys

Any opinions???

I have a 2000 GS400 that I have posted a DIY CAI intake on here before. I simply extended the piping into the wheelwell. Question.... is it OK to have a 90 degree bend in the piping down into the wheelwell or should I get rid of it and try to get a 45 degree bend down there? The reason for my question is I feel the car has better pull on the highway but the initial takeoff IS slower than stock! It feels like it takes longer to "spool" up the RPM's - perhaps because of the severe bending of the pipe; longer to draw air into the engine. Could this be? Do you guys think this could effect air flow/performance that much?

Thanks,

Nick

happy all is well 4 you!

Also, I have to add that I had a sound that sounded like rustling of leaves in my A/C vents and it was driving me nuts!!!! I read a very informative post on here and fixed the problem. In your case it might be leaves as suggested above but it wasn't in my case. The noise sounded like leaves but in fact it was a noise coming from a relay that switched the A/C from Floor mode to Face mode or both. The relay itself wasn't bad but the contacts needed to be cleaned as an unclear message was passing from the relay to the motor that turns gears to change "modes" as noted above. I had to disassemble my glove box, take the CD changer out and a couple of other items; then you will find a small (sealed by snap clips-be careful not to break them off when opening) box with small gears, motor and contacts. I noticed on my car these contacts were covering with grime and grease. The tutorial that I followed suggested cleaning these contacts with a Q-tip and alcohol. After cleaning, I re-assembled everything and all is great! The A/C makes NO noises what so ever and everything works properly. I did this DYI almost a year ago and it is still fine to date. Hope this helps!

Nick