Les Lex 2018

Based on Rampant inflation and using gold now as the standard, the actual "COST to you" of a 24 is coming down. Why? Because with the flood of all new Lexus models coming in, the Dealer is no longer able to charge you for a bunch of expensive / ridiculous options, like Projecting your dealers name-advertisement on the ground every time you get in the thing, LOL. It's quickly becoming a buyers marker and no longer a "Take it or leave it" Dealers market.

I have not experimented with surround sound since my USB only supports Mpeg. I don't yet use the CD player, but I will test it out with surround sound if I can dig up an album that supports surround sound. Other setting: Auto sound leveling = ON. Base Treble, equalizer all set to middle. Even with base set at center, it produces too much base for me. Fader set to 3 click up from the bottom (Rear). If I go any closer to Rear, I lose all fidelity and only hear base. That sounds like a BUG to me? Result: I can't tell where the music is coming from except for the stereo component. Balance set to one click to the right. On a tune with base, the main base output is coming from the rear deck and front door speakers. The least base is coming from the rear doors. BUT the fidelity out of the rear door speaker is excellent at these settings. Small speaker, is the reason, as you noted? The design makes sense if you think about it. It's NOT a family car. Most people stepping out of the 300 are older folks. Back seat will never get used. So they pump the Watts everywhere else.

I presume that you guy have checked with Lexus to see if altering / tampering with the audio system will NOT void your warrantee. I see here on the forum that replacing that system outside of the warrantee can be a shockingly expensive proposition. Get it in writing! The Mark L in my 300h is not designed to be a boom box, but I still have to crank it down when driving thru the ally in the morning to avoid a possible complaint and a ticket.

Following was an MTBF question for Gemini (Bard) AI: No, car companies typically don't release specific MTBF (Mean Time Between Failures) times for their electronic systems to the public. There are a few reasons for this: Proprietary Information: MTBF data can be considered commercially sensitive information. Releasing it could give competitors an advantage in understanding the reliability of their own systems. Complexity: Modern cars are crammed with electronics, and MTBF can vary greatly depending on the specific system and how it's used. A simple system like a window switch might have a very high MTBF, while a complex system like the engine control unit might have a lower one. Operating Conditions: MTBF is heavily influenced by how a car is driven and maintained. A car that is primarily driven on rough roads or in extreme temperatures will likely experience more electronic failures than one driven in ideal conditions. However, car manufacturers do heavily focus on reliability during the design and development process. They use extensive testing and quality control measures to ensure their electronic systems meet their own internal reliability targets. Here are some alternatives to finding public MTBF data: Reliability Reports: Consumer Reports and other automotive publications track reliability data based on owner surveys. This data can give you a general idea of how reliable a particular car model is likely to be. Warranty Information: The length and terms of a car's warranty can be an indicator of how confident the manufacturer is in the reliability of its electronics. Owner Reviews: Online forums and car review websites can be a good source of anecdotal information about common electronic problems with specific car models. END QUOTE

For reference: The day I traded in my 2yr old 2020 RX 350, I registered 31 MPG on the 120 mile trip to the Lexus Dealership. Interstate all the way. Heavy constant city driving usually came out around 19 MPG. Urban traffic around 23 MPG. The ES300h is getting a steady 43 to 44 MPG in the summer city and interstate. You might like the RX350h but they are scarce in these parts. So they are loading them up to get top dollar. Called Free Enterprise!

Probably going to take some HEAT for saying this, but it's the truth: I've gone thru two dash cams very quickly and finally gave up the notion that electronics operated above the dashboard will last very long. Computer chips/components generate a lot of heat due to higher clock speeds. Add to that temperatures near 150 F in direct sunlight, and you have a situation where components age quicker than they would sitting on your stereo/TV shelf. A good practice is to keep a bright reflective dash or windshield cover in use after parking outside. And always park facing the car away from the sun. That also reduces the heat build up on your seats and seat-backs which in turn reduces wear on the seat fabric. Just whistling past the junk yard.

So the first thing your guy did was hook up to the diagnostic port and check that all systems are operating correctly. Dealers do that too. Once you have that information, if you decide the head unit is suspect, you can then look on eBay Motors for a used 2014 Lexus salvage head unit that offers a return policy if it ends up not being the problem. If that sounds like too much work, check with the parts department. The unit might still be in their inventory refurbished. Life is no fun without an entertainment system.

Hi Tom! As you know, you have a built in cell phone internet interface and Lexus decided your software needs to be updated most likely due to a problem that has popped up somewhere. My 2022 has never required an update, or they did it w/o messaging me. Either way, I wouldn't worry about what the update contained. Chances are that LEXUS doesn't think you need to know or worry about what needed fixing (excuse me - updating). Iv'e learned to ignore fixes on computers like the MAC because updates keep coming and coming... How did you enjoy the 300H during the Polar Vortex? Bet you're glad you didn't buy a battery electric ev. People unloading them things like crazy. BTW: Your H now has better resale value than the ave. Gas only vehicle. And the crazies won't wanna slash your tires for driving a guzzler.

Hi Les! Your FOB uses a rolling or sometimes called hopping code to defeat the ability of someone to use a simple form of replay attack where an eaves dropper records the transmission code and re-uses it to unlock your vehicle. Same with garage door openers. Both your FOB and Vehicle use an encryption technique such that only your fob and the vehicle know what the next code is going to be. The spoofer has no way of knowing what the next code is going to be. The wonderful world of "Digital encryption"... The disable feature you mention is great if you got a second key but don't have another driver. You can put it in the safe at home, plus It saves the FOB battery from unnecessary drain. Thanks, Les, for the tip.

Your 24 should have a switch to change modes. That should be set to ECO, unless they changed that. To time your engine, bring up the hybrid engine display on the screen. the display will show when the engine is running and when the hybrid battery is charging. Pay attention to the engine running arrows. It's red when pointing to the wheels or bat. Stop watch it so you get only the run time. Then look at the total run time in minutes which can be selected and displayed in front of the driver.

First some comparison info that will not help you a whole lot. My 2020 Rx 350 V-6 got 18 mpg in town in real cold weather. About 20-22 in warm weather. Pure highway got 27 short trip, to 30 mpg long trip. But not running 70 mph. In multiple hybrids and RX's, I've always found TMC vehicles to very accurate on mpg display. So that's a good tool for doing your comparisons at different outside temps and speeds. Take your data to Lexus and have it analyzed by a good hybrid tech at Lexus. One more data point to look at: The ES hybrid has a CVT and optimized engine efficiency system that is getting an engine cycle time of 50%. That's why it gets 50 MPG hot start to hot finish. So get your passenger to use their watch timer to compute how long your engine is running vs. the length of the trip. The longer your engine is kept running to maintain your speed, the closer your RX will register to the mpg of a regular RX 350 without a turbo which I don't believe you have. I'm guessing your engine cycle time will may be closer to 80%. You're almost there with your data. My only guess would be that you're locked in performance mode and don't know it. Getting a engine cycle % in both ECO and Performance mode would tell the story there.

You may be running short distances where the engine is cold and being choked. Do this: Reset the MPG. Start up cold and check after 2 miles. It should be around 25 to 27. Cold engines gulp a lot of gas. When the engine is hot, reset it again and check it after about 5 miles. It should be in the 36 to 40 range. Colder weather and turning on your heater keeps the engine running longer too. Example: The ES300h gets like 34 mpg in the first 2 miles. But running from a warm start to finish in the city, it gets over 50 MPG, believe it or not. So short distances and high speed highways take a toll on MPG. The RX is not very aerodynamic. The ES sedans are.

I do have to back slide here a bit. In 2021 and 2022, when Lexus quit making cars and SUVs (figuratively speaking) they were no longer making money selling cars. To make ends meet, they started loading up most of what they did get the chance to order. In their defense, they did not charge me above MSRP. But they did make up for it with added options. You done good Frank. And you do have good taste in cars.

Hold it! I forgot to mention that there is a mirror inside the dash that needs to be aligned correctly. The projector shoots horizontally and forward onto the mirror which is tilted forward at 45 degrees. It then shoots straight up and bounces off the glass and shoots rearward onto your face. Yes the glass had to be of correct mfg in order for that to work properly.

One thing to check: peer thru the windshield from outside and make sure the protective cover is seated properly in the dash. Or use the mirror as Matt suggested. The problem I have lately (twice) is that the HUD display resets the brightness and position of the display to such a low point that I had trouble seeing it w/o raising the seat. Yes, I do go in and correct both on the meter switches but I don't understand why it did that on its own.