Spartan0536

Hello fellow Lexus owners, I recently purchased a 1992 Lexus LS400, it has the nakamichi sound system but 3/4 of the speakers are shot, the head unit is dead, the Subwoofer still works great and the 5 disk CD changer is still functional. I purchased this car for $1000 (USD), it has 86K miles on it, was garage kept, 1 owner verified, a rare find. I am calling this "Project Revolution" as its going through a technological revolution. Here is what I am doing... Body: 1. NO BODY KITS 2. NO RIMS (unless the 16 inch stock Lexus chrome rims will fit from a 1993 Lexus LS400) 3. NO Repaint, just minor repair work on some scuffed areas 4. Professional detailing (completed, looks great BTW) Exterior Lighting: 1. Brake, Stop, Reverse, Turn, & Corner light will all be incandescent bulbs, Crystal Vision Ultra's, this is to keep that pesky light out error from lighting up on my display 2. Parking, & License Plate lights replaced with Sylvania ZEVO LED's (completed) 3. Fog lights - permanent mod (smashing the yellow glass) and replacing with Hella Extreme White XB bulbs (completed) 4. Headlights - currently using PIAA Extreme White 9004 bulbs (yes I paid $80, and they are brighter & whiter than stock), considering an LED headlight upgrade, possibly GTR Gen 3 Interior Lighting: 1. Footwell lights replaced with LED's (on backorder) 2. Glovebox replaced with LED (on backorder) 3. Dome light replaced with ZEVO LED (completed) 4. Personal/Map lights replaced with LED's (on backorder) 5. Door lights replaced with ZEVO LED (Completed) 6. Trunk Light replaced with ZEVO LED (Completed) Interior Modifications: 1. Send out instrument cluster to Tanin Auto Electronix for diagnostic and LED upgrade (also replace Odometer as it just recently stopped working, and yes I have been tracking the miles) 2. Send out A/C controls to Tanin Auto Electronix for repair and LED upgrade (completed, LED upgrade: LCD - Cool White, Button Backlighting - Bright White, Indicator LED - OEM Green) 3. Replace stock entertainment system (stereo)..... Head Unit/Reciever - Kenwood eXcelon DDX594 Front Speakers - Pioneer TS-D1330C (5 1/4") component speakers /w crossover Rear Speakers - Pioneer TS-D1302R (5 1/4") coaxial speakers Subwoofer - Stock Pioneer 8" subwoofer (If I were to replace it, I would go with a Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 8" Low Profile Subwoofer, they are around $70) Amplifier - undecided, not sure if I need one Wiring - High Quality 12 gauge wiring 4. Recondition or reupholster the leather as required (currently looks like it just needs reconditioning) Performance Mods: 1. Detail the engine bay (completed, took me 5 hours by hand) 2. Replace Air Filter with K&N & clean IAC & Throttle Body 3. Full Synthetic Valvoline 5W-30 oil with a Bosch Premium filter (completed) 4. Flush & replace Power Steering, Brake, and Transmission fluids with Full Synthetic fluids (completed) 5. Replace brake pads & inspect rotors & calipers (replace/re tune if needed) 6. POSSIBLY replace rotors & calipers with StopTech slotted and drilled kit (not sure if its really needed) 7. Replace cap, rotor, ignition coil & plug wires with OEM+ quality cap, rotor, coil & wires 8. Replace Spark Plugs with NGK Iridium IX 9. Install strut tower braces for less body roll 10. Replace current Michelin A/S Primacy MXV4 tires with Cooper CS5 Ultra Touring tires 11. Flush & replace engine coolant (completed) 12. Professional intake and fuel cleaning service Here are my questions: 1. Do I need an amplifier for my sound setup, and what do you think about the Pioneer D line of speakers. Keep in mind I am going for SQ and will be using the 13 band EQ and DTA in the receiver to ensure sound quality. I am NOT going for bass overdrive or loudness, just quality lows from the sub, and quality mids & highs from the speakers. 2. Is it possible to use the 1993-1995 LS400 16 inch rims on my 1992 LS400 or is it a different pattern? 3. I have heard some complain about the brakes on the 1st generation LS400's, is this something I should be concerned about or is it just nitpicking? 4. LED Headlights, whats your take on it, and I am not talking about the $90 Ebay/Amazon Chinese knockoff ones. If I am replacing these it will be with a $150+ set using Philips LumiLEDS. Thanks for taking the time to read this, I look forward to hearing back from you regarding this project.

Talked with my mechanic today about the cost if it needed to be done on my 92 lexus LS400, he said parts, labor and tax would come out to around $1100. If you have a friend that is a mechanic and you have a decent set of tools, you and him could probably knock this out in 4 or 5 hours and just pay parts and buy your friend a nice steak dinner and save some serious $$$. The good news is with a decent replacement OEM quality part these things generally seem to last around 150K-250K miles, or so I have read many times. My previous about $500 - $900 was from my experience in my 2002 Dodge Stratus which needed that service done, average price quote on that was $800, but do NOT buy those cars.

On all 1UZ-FE engines the Starter is located under the Intake Manifold, starter replacements in general are usually around $500 - $900 depending upon certain conditions (shop price, part price, labor costs, ect...). If you are a DIY kind of person, jobs like this can save you quite a bit of money, but from the information available on Lextreme it is a rather involved process. How to change your starter in a 1UZ-FE Engine

I do not have much experience with a BMW, but I do have quite an experience with Audi and Mercedes namely a 2012 Audi A7 and a 2014 Mercedes Benz C300... My Lexus is a 1992 LS400 Here are my thoughts.... Speed: (0-60 MPH & 60-100 MPH) *100 MPH is used as 2 lane highway "passing speeds" when traffic is moving an average of 60-70 MPH Audi A7 - This is the clear winner, absolutely fantastic performance in terms of acceleration and power, a very sporty luxury sedan, this was an extremely fun driving machine to say the least. Mercedes C300 - On par with my 1992 LS400 in terms of acceleration in 0-60, they are within 1/10 of a second of each other, but the 60-100 is dismal after 80 MPH, it just seems to lack the power to hit 100 MPH where the rest of the time it does very well, this left me underwhelmed. Lexus LS400 - For an old barge of a car, this thing has some power behind it that most people are just not aware of, I was impressed on my first test drive of this old car. 0-60 times on par with a modern Mercedes C300 pleases me well, and the 60-100 times are as quick as the Audi A7, turn off O/D and kick on ECT to PWR and this thing is a highway rocket (even with O/D on and ECT to PWR it performs very well on the highway). I have nothing but love and respect for the LS400, absolutely fantastic all around if not a bit old. Ride comfort: Audi A7 - This car lost, its sporty but harsh for a luxury sedan, it rides like a new Civic in terms of suspension dampening but it's still a FUN car to drive but it comes in last place here. Mercedes C300 - Silky smooth, absolutely fantastic on the highway, the ride quality is just phenomenal in this car, I love driving the C300 on road trips, it may not be as fun as the Audi but it's just a pleasure to drive. Lexus LS400 - A little more "bouncy" than the Mercedes C300 but every bit as much of a pleasure, if I could tighten up the suspension a bit it would beat the Mercedes which is almost 1/4 century newer. Handling: Audi A7 - As the "fun" car, this car just takes corners like a champ, it's the clear winner of the 3, just a fun car to drive. Mercedes C300 - This car comes in 2nd place, its responsive and handling is not an issue at all, it's nice and tight on corners with little body roll, I love driving this car. Lexus LS400 - DEAD LAST, there is a decent bit of body roll here and you can feel it, it drives like a barge with a 200,000 HP turbine engine attached to it. I have some suspension upgrades planned for it to alleviate this well documented "feature". It's not like an mid 1990's SUV kind of body roll but it's just not what you would expect in a modern luxury car, but that is being a bit judgemental on such an old car. Reliability: Audi A7 - Surprisingly well built, but maintenance costs are ungodly expensive to say the least, plus if it does have a malfunction it's either the dealership or a specialist mechanic that can work on Audi's and the parts are freaking expensive, never really had an issue with the car while we owned it, but that could just be luck I suppose. The routine oil change that my father had done by the dealership was $350 (USD), yeah that's no exaggeration, it was that expensive just for an oil change and general inspection. Mercedes C300 - When it works it works well, this is pretty much the modern Mercedes motto, my father has had this car serviced 3 times in 2 years costing a total of 5K (USD), definately at the bottom of the list. Lexus LS400 - 1/4 of a century old, that's 25 freaking years, and I can still do the "water glass" test and pass with flying colors. The engineering in this car borders on the obsessive compulsive, its damn near perfection in many cases. I am dealing with some electrical issues, but living on the gulf coast of Florida and the car being 25 years old, this should come as no surprise. As for the powertrain, it's in FLAWLESS condition, runs just like it came off the dealership lot. This car wins 1st place by such a large margin its in its own universe, the legend that precedes these LS400's is not hype or BS, there is some serious truth to it! Technology: Audi A7 - This was surprisingly more bare bones than I had expected it to be, and it left me a little unimpressed truth be told. Its not bad but for a luxury sedan that is quite modern, if I had paid full sticker price I would have been upset by what the competition offers. Mercedes C300 - It's not an S class it is a base C300, and it's got some nice options in it for sure, not sure if it's worth the 65K new sticker price, but it's not bad and it is better than the Audi. Lexus LS400 - I know, I know it's a 1992, so to be fair I will rate it based on era... The LS400 wins hands freaking down... even by modern standards on average consumer cars this car is freaking LOADED. 5 disk CD changer, Nakamichi premium audio (2x front component speakers, 2x coaxial rear speakers, and an 8 inch subwoofer) all stock! Power seats that includes adjustable lumbar support, power headrest, power tilt and slide. DIGITAL A/C controls! Not to mention that "blackout" instrument cluster is still pretty freaking cool. Yeah the tech in this car is just nuts, absolutely freaking nuts, its so easy to see why Mercedes, BMW, and Audi lost their minds when these cars hit the American markets, probably the most important luxury sedan of the last 50 years. Keep in mind I have upgraded the lighting to professional LED (with CAN-BUS), the audio is now a JBL GTO series (with the stock covers), and I am using a Kenwood eXcelon DDX594 touchscreen multimedia receiver. Yeah this car right now has everything people today even want, aside from the fuel costs and fuel mileage (it's an early 90's V8 engine). So what are my 2 favorite things about a Lexus over a Mercedes or Audi? Reliability & Technology, followed closely by performance

I drive a 1992 Lexus LS400, so looks is not in the books from a modern standpoint.... However, the fact its 25 years old, drives better than a vast majority of the cars on the market today, and its still as reliable as when it left the lot a quarter of a century ago, yeah not that is some serious quality engineering. I test drove a 2016 Toyota Avalon Limited with just about every available option today, car had 25,000 miles on it, and it was impressive for a Toyota. The dealer wanted to test drive my LS400 after we were finished with the test drive, so I let him, I have never seen a dealer so impressed with an old car before, and he started throwing deals at me left and right to sell the Avalon, I think he realized he was in deep **** when he finally figured out what makes a Lexus a Lexus and not "just an overpriced Toyota".

Very nice, and for a good price... Sorry to hear about the IED, I have a few friends that have dealt with that crap, one of whom is a retired combat engineer. I was in ROTC and suffered an eye injury outside of ROTC playing a pickup game of basketball, ended up with a retinal detachment which caused me to be medically disqualified before my ROTC training was completed. I wish you the best of luck with your new Lexus ES300 and that 1964 Chevy Biscayne!

Update: After doing some intensive research for about 4 hours last night I came across some good forum posts and some very informative YouTube videos, I believe I may have found my Headlight LED set, I would like some feedback if possible on this endeavour. *Note: According to all the documentation I could find on these LED headlights they have a CAN-BUS included in the driver. GTR Lighting Gen 3 (9004/HB1)

Yeah when its off it sits far below the 0... Also I just finished part of my LED lighting upgrade in my LS400, I have custom type 74 LED's and custom type BA9s LED's coming in through the mail. I am also considering an LED headlight upgrade, but I am not sure if this is something I want to do, here are the kits I am looking at.... Kit 1 Kit 2

I have a Lexus LS400, and I am changing my tires to Cooper CS5 Ultra Touring tires, for my rim size they are around $89.00 (US) per tire at Walmart. Here is the link for your described tire size (245/45-R19) *According to Kauffman Tires you can expect these "shoes" to run you around $200 - $225 (US) each, right within your price range.

Here are the instrument cluster pictures as promised, sorry it took so long. I have the pictures with the car on battery power, idle park, & idle drive in that order...

It's been around a week since the detail, but I have been using detail spray to keep it looking good. I personally cleaned the engine bay by hand.

So here is the latest.... I talked with my mechanic today, his parts supplier failed him on obtaining the required integration relay... from what I can gather, this relay is responsible for certain electronics within the cabin, but I do not have a full wiring diagram or chilton/haynes manual covering this. I found the part within 4 minutes of searching on Google at a Lexus of South Atlanta for $175, if the diagrams they have on their website associated with the part are any indication I could do the repair myself as it's a bolt on and not a soldering job (I can professionally solder, I am a certified PC technician, and I have soldered electronic parts before, I just hate doing it). The instrument cluster - I will be waiting a few weeks for this to be fixed, all lights are currently working, the needles are a little low on the RPM side but still functional. Right now my focus is getting that A/C working again, so I have to send the control unit out to Tanin for overhaul/repair & upgrade. A/C Control Unit - yep it's dead, mechanic stated they tested the connecting wires and they carry the correct charge, so the unit is done. I will be sending it out to Tanin, if they can not repair it, I will sell them the core and use that to offset the cost. They will then send me a remanufactured model for my year with the backlighting (White) and LED (Red) upgrades I requested to make it look more modern. Entertainment Upgrade - Coming soon, but I have settled on the Kenwood eXcelon DDX594 double din receiver/monitor unit. My cars antenna is shot but I already have the replacement unit which will be installed and it features a thicker gauge shielded & braided wire which should help filter out EM noise. The stock speakers are shot aside from the Subwoofer which is staying and I will have the stock AMP wired to the new head unit via one of the pre-amp's. I think I am going with the JBL GT7-5C component rigs for the front and GTO429 coaxials in the rear, I was thinking of adding in a amp for the speakers but from what I have been told the receiver I am using meets the requirements as long as I do not crank the volume past 80% otherwise I will get massive distortion, and I am NOT going for loudness, I am going for QUALITY. I know its not going to match Mark Levinson 19 speaker rigs in modern Lexus's, but it will outperform 75% of the cars on the road today, and that is what I want. I am considering Dynamat Extreme on the doors and surrounding the rear subwoofer, this should help with road noise (of which the car is already fantastic at negating), couple this with good tires and it should be a wonderful ride. Suspension Upgrade - Right off the bat I will be installing 2 strut tower braces (1 front, 1 rear), this will help with body roll, which the LS400 is notorious for. If the braces do not remove enough of the body roll I may opt for performance sway bars that will be installed and setup professionally. I love the way my fathers 2013 Mercedes Benz C300 handles corners, not much body roll, I want my car to handle SIMILAR, and I believe the front and rear tower braces will suffice, plus they are a cheap upgrade. Tires - I am sold on the Cooper CS5 Ultra Touring tires, the research data looks very promising and they are sold at Walmart for $85 a piece. I will have my local tire shop install them, and I will have a balance and rotation done with the install like any sane person would. Lighting - My headlights & Fog lights are only going to be bulb replacements, I am not interested in wiring in custom HID's. The bulbs I have chosen are both made by Hella, they are the Optilux Extreme White XB's. I currently have Philips Crystal Vision Ultras installed in the headlights, and I am NOT impressed, by old Silverstar ZXE's seemed better in my old 2002 Stratus. From what I have read and seen, the Hella bulbs are brighter than both the Philips and Sylvanias, but they are not "street legal"/DOT approved. However their color is 4300K which is DOT and OEM approved (most OEM projector lamps are using 4300K temps), this means there will still be some yellow in their color which you want. LED upgrades will be strictly limited to the doors, footwell lights, license plate, parking lights, dome lights, map lights, and courtesy lights. The glovebox will be using the standard halogen bulb in a long life factor (its currently burnt out). Engine - I will be replacing the ignition system (cap, rotor, coil, & plug wires) with an MSD setup, and the spark plugs will be NGK Iridium IX's. The fuel system will be professionally treated/cleaned through a treatment service to clean out any carbon and unclog any injectors. After the treatment I will be replacing the fuel filter with a Bosch fuel filter to help keep the fuel clean when coming to the engine. I will be cleaning out the throttle body by hand as well as the IAC and the EGR filter disks in the UFO looking housing (My 95 Camry had these, they get nasty and the part is $2.99 for the filter media). I have already cleaned out the airbox and aux intake tubes, they were pretty nasty. I will be using a K&N drop in air filter, and I will be replacing the stock mufflers with performance ones that have alternating baffles to keep interior resonance to an absolute minimum while providing a more "factory sport" sound (these will be PROFESSIONALLY installed and MIG welded). While these mods may not actually translate into more horsepower due to the ECU programming being factory, what it will do is make it easier for the engine to produce a powerful spark easier, intake air easier, and atomize fuel easier making the engine do less work and should help with fuel economy and produce less carbon in the engine. Routine Maintenance - I have already spent $160 on having my car professionally detailed (it took the team 5 hours to complete the detail), and it looks fantastic almost showroom quality. The transmission fluid and power steering fluid were just flushed and refilled with BG synthetic fluids. The oil will be AMSOIL Signature Full Synthetic 5W-30, paired with a Bosch Premium filter (it tested better than the AMSOIL filter), my average cost of a oil change every 10K miles will be $65, but AMSOIL is a fantastic synthetic oil. This is pretty much where I am sitting right now, thoughts?

I do not want LED's on the instrument cluster, just a bulb replacement with the Xenon infused bulbs for a whiter brighter light, they usually last about 8-10 years which is about how long I intend to keep the car if parts don't keep falling off of this infernal machine.... On a more serious note, the engine and transmission seem to be in excellent condition and are silky smooth when operating, especially with Overdrive on and ECT on Normal. ALL and I do mean ALL of my current issues are electrical, and its beginning to annoy the crap out of me

I will be attaching pictures to this post when I get home, however... When the engine is off the needle sits SLIGHTLY (1/10 of an inch) below the 0, when I am in PARK its idling around 650-700 RPM, and when I am in drive it idles at around 300. Addendum: My Odometer stopped working at 87,350, I am going to be sending it out to Tanin Auto Electronix as well, but I am wondering if the gauges are lit by bulbs or other electronic means. The reason I ask is that I could replace the stock bulbs with Philips Crystal Vision Ultra bulbs to give them a whiter, brighter light. Also when using LED lights on the interior and parking lights, does that mess with the computer regarding voltages that might cause issues? I will NOT be using LED's for my brake, stop, turn, corner, or reverse lights.

I had no idea.... impressive... I know Lexus set a lot of industry tech standards but that for early 90's is just awe inspiring.... Makes me want a new Lexus (if I could afford it without going into massive debt).

Here are a couple of tips I have picked up regarding maximizing fuel efficiency 1. Replace the spark plugs if you have not already, I prefer NGK Iridium plugs 2. Look for Cooper CS5 Grand Touring/Ultimate Touring tires, they are excellent for these cars 3. Use OVERDRIVE on the highway or at speeds in excess of 60 MPH (most say 40-50 MPH, but in my car I have observed minimal difference at those speeds). Note that you can use Overdrive at all speeds and it will keep the RPM's down but from what I have learned at slower speeds this translates to negligible fuel economy gains. 4. Set your ECT mode to NORMAL and not PWR 5. Keep the RPM's as low as possible aka don't floor it 6. Make sure your wheels are balanced and aligned properly and that your tires are also correctly inflated. 7. Mythbusters proved this, KEEP YOUR CAR CLEAN, it does SLIGHTLY affect gas mileage for the positive. 8. Turn off your A/C system if you want, it does affect gas mileage slightly, but its also a comfort, not really necessary unless you want to maximize fuel economy. 9. In reference to replacing the spark plugs, you may also want to consider replacing the ignition coil, distributor cap & rotor, and plug wires if they have not been replaced in quite some time as they can lose spark and cause poor performance, this would be within a general tune-up. 10. Replace the fuel filter, this is commonly missed on every car, and they get NASTY, unclean fuel = bad performance. Also consider getting a professional fuel service done on your car, this can help too, especially if it has not been done in some time.

Nice, my LS400 circa 1992 is giving me electrical issues out the ***, I am having to install a new main relay for all interior electronics (minus doors since they are on another relay), I am also replacing my odometer and having it rolled to a correct calculation as its broken, replacing the failed A/C controls, and replacing the stock stereo as 75% of it has failed (including the antenna). It's a 25 year old car with around 87,500 miles on it (odometer currently reads 87,385 and the last CarFax update was from a Lexus dealership 2 years ago just before the original owner was placed into hospice where his car sat in the garage for approximately 1.5 years. That being said, the only major issues with the car in terms of mechanical reliability are the Alternator being killed by a leaking power steering pump (if your leaks) as it sits directly over the alternator which was a poor design idea in hindsight. Given the issues I am dealing with, the knowledge that is out on the web in mass numbers, plus the near legendary reputation that Lexus has for reliability, I would say the numbers are correct, or very very very close at worst.

Sounds like it could be the throttle body, it is a mechanical throttle, and my old Camry had that issue before (1995 Camry LE). How old is the battery, and is the Alternator holding up? The reason I ask about the alternator is that it's a common issue on LS400's with over 100K miles to have power steering fluid leak onto the alternator and kill it.

Update: My mechanic looked at it (for free, which I am grateful for), he tested the wiring to the Climate Control system and it checked out ok, the control unit itself failed however, and it was not the LCD screen, the PCB (mainboard) is shot it looks like. The only thing that functions is the clock and the buttons associated with the clock. My mechanic left the climate control unit removed upon my request and I will be sending it out to Tanin Auto Electronix and yes I will be having its color customized, the LCD will be a Cool White color, the button highlights will be a Bright White, and the LED indicators will be red, something you would likely see in a modern luxury car, it will cost me $60 more but hey I get a repaired unit that works, with a lifetime warranty, and its unique but still stock. As for the other lighting issues my mechanic found the cause after some testing and looking over the wiring schematics of the car, they found the cause to be a faulty relay that sits behind the dashboard, total cost to repair will be $360 and that is including parts, labor, and tax, the replacement will be a new production Toyota relay. As it turns out many of the interior and some of the exterior lights go through that relay, so this may actually fix all of my lighting issues. As for the acceleration issue, I have noticed something and perhaps someone here can explain this to me... I am under the impression that standard idle should be at 600-650 RPM, is this in park or in drive? The reason I ask is that while in Drive my RPM's are at 250, yes I mean 250, its LOW, but its not stuttering or stalling, its silky smooth. I also noticed that if I just "gun" the throttle the car does not respond with a "kick in the !Removed!", it instead accelerates at a slightly faster than normal pace, but if I push about 60% into the throttle I get a better response from the engine and as it continues into the higher RPM's I can depress the accelerator for more power (this was all done in ECT-PWR mode). Again I am wondering if this is normal or if I need to prepare to put in some new NGK Iridium IX plugs and some new wires to get better fuel burn? I am coming from an electronic throttle (2002 Dodge Stratus) to a mechanical wire based throttle, and its been some time since I have driven a car with a mechanical throttle, thoughts?

The work done by the mechanic was the following... Replace the Alternator with a reman one (unknown what brand, will check, it has a warranty) Flush and refill the Power Steering and Transmission Refill the freon in the A/C and put dye in to determine if/where the leak may be Full 4 point inspection (nothing else turned up according to the mechanic). Prior to the work being done, the only issues I found with the car were no working A/C (control unit was functional, but no freon was in the system), and there was a high pitched whine when driving the car at slow speeds. The mechanic said that it was the alternator as the bearings were going out, then he said the next day it just died. I took the car home from the mechanic for 1 day, exactly 1 day (24 hours), within that time I noticed the foot light on the passenger side would not turn off (drivers side is INOP, bulb is likely dead). The dome light when set to door will not turn off when the doors are closed (might require a new pressure sensor), and then the next morning the A/C controls were dead but the clock still functions perfectly. On the drive over, I set the mode to PWR (Power) and noticed a 0-60 time of 8 seconds (calculated using my phones stopwatch feature), this is not what I felt before when I first test drove the car, it was pretty damn quick. I also noticed that the D light in the instrument cluster was SLIGHTLY dimming and then brightening again, it was minimal but you can clearly see it. I am starting to wonder if this car is really worth my time or not, even at 84K miles.

Update: Started the car this morning, A/C controls DEAD, clock still works but the A/C system is non-responsive. Also this car seems to be accelerating very slow. I pushed my foot ALL the way down, and going from 0-60 took 12 seconds. The RPM gauge moved pretty sluggish for a 4.0L V8, it was not like this before I had the car serviced. I took it back the the mechanic, this car is costing me $$$ real fricking quick.

I WAS considering the upgrade and both Philips and Sylvania make resistors that you attach to the LED bulb that will stop that rapid flashing but it gets really expensive, so I opted to replace most of the exterior bulbs with Philips Crystal Vision Ultra bulbs outside of the Fog lights, parking lights, reverse lights, and tag lights, those are all White LED and DOT approved. MY headlights are Philips Crystal Vision Ultra (series 4002), they look similar to HID but are not as bright, but they are better than stock Halogen bulbs, and I replaced the fog light bulbs with Hella Optilux Extreme White XB bulbs (series H3C). Other issues I have heard about people using LED's for brake lights, turn signals, and a few others with an LS400 is a "light out" error on the dash, the only 2 fixes are to either use that resistor I mentioned earlier, or not use the LED bulbs.

Hello, I picked up my 1992 Lexus LS400 from my mechanic today after he replaced the Alternator which died, and I had him look at the belt to see if it even had cracks in it, he said it looked like it had been changed a year ago and has less than 1,000 miles on it, so no need to replace. The alternator is of course a remanufactured one as I have been unable to find new production ones. The power steering is all good, with no leaking or signs there of as well. After picking up the car, I noticed that it did not seem to have the power I have seen on youtube videos and when I test drove it where when you romp the gas that V8 will put you into the seat. But I figured that could easily be me getting used to a manual cable throttle as I am used to an electronic throttle that my 2002 Dodge Stratus used. Fast forward a few hours and I am checking the car again top to bottom for any nagging little things and I come across 3... 1. The remote unlock works and it works quite well, but it will randomly lock the car when the doors are open, perhaps the pressure sensor on the key is getting worn out and is becoming too sensitive? 2. The dome light works, but with all the doors closed it stays on, even if I have it set to door mode, so for now I have to leave it in OFF mode. 3. The passenger floor light (where your feet are when sitting down) will not turn off at all, I have the rest of the car "cold and dark" and yet that damn light is still on, is this supposed to happen, is there a switch I do not know about that turns it off? WTF is going on here faulty/stuck door sensors? Wiring harness issues? I do not remember any of these being issues and I drove the car during the day and the night, any and all help is appreciated.

Here is a perfect video that will explain why I always suggest changing the fuel filter every 50,000 miles... its a forgotten part really.... YouTube - ChrisFix, What does a 300K mile, 130K mile, and a 30K mile fuel filter look like?

Yeah the timing belt was changed at 79K miles by the original owner, its got the official Lexus work stamp in the engine bay saying the date it was changed and the mileage. BTW I was looking at the Cooper CS5 GrandTouring and UltimateTouring tires, not too bad of a price at $85 & $89 per tire, I am looking for quietness and comfort with good to excellent handling in rain as I live in Florida, and when it rains it pours. I don't think I have ever looked this hard for a set of tires before, except back when I was into racing but there I looked for high speed rated tires with solid road and track grip. Thoughts on the GrandTouring vs UltimateTouring tires in terms of ride comfort, noise, and traction?