CELSI0R

Yeah. I've had a set of 1993-1994 rims for years, but never put them on for the same reasons. In terms of the shifter, as long as it doesn't wobble as if it's going to move into the next gear, it should be fine. Mine wobbles a little when sitting in any gear, but it's very minimal travel (a milimeter or two each way). You can tighten the linkage if you want to, but if it's not causing any problems now it should be fine.

I can confirm 1993-2000 LS 400 rims all fit on the 1990-1992 LS. However, since they are 16 inch, the tires you will need to buy to get the same overall circumference as the originals will cost more. The tire size for 1993-2000 LS 400 models have a larger circumference overall, leading to inaccurate speed readings on 1990-1992 models. Changing the 1st gen brakes are more or less nitpicking. 1993-1994 have larger rotors and calipers, which makes braking stronger (this means you will need to change to 16" rims). Although, the dual piston calipers fitted on 1991-1992 models are very good. 1990 models have single piston calipers. Looking forward to seeing and reading about these updates!

Your cluster actually appears to be fine. I noticed the tachometer needle is slightly below 0, but when the cluster is off, does it drop further below the 0 marker? If it does, it needs to be relocated. I would still have Tanin take a look, if it won't cost more, since you're sending it to have the odometer fixed.

Sorry, I misunderstood. I don't know how those will differ, but I'm sure the Xenon bulbs will be fine. However, I would still not replace any of the bulbs listed on LexLS that could have negative effects on the cluster's performance. The electrical problems you're experiencing have come up due to wear and tear from the previous owner over the past 25 years. Even though it's a little tedious now, it will pay off in the long run. I went through similar repairs when I got my car 7 years ago, but all have been resolved and have not acted up since. As a cheaper alternative for the climate control, you could buy a working used unit online. A few are on Ebay. The faceplate and buttons can be swapped carefully, if you want to match the original pieces together.

The odometer is definitely something that you want to keep synced with the car. Might as well have Tanin fix any and all problems with the cluster, since you're sending it to them. I don't believe modifying the cluster lights will affect anything; however, some lights cannot be changed. Tanin will definitely know what can and cannot be done. LexLS details this on his website. I have seen LED light mods for the interior and parking lights as well and have not heard of any negative side-effects, so it should be ok. The signals and brake lights are where problems usually occur.

Good to hear you're gettting the climate control circuit fixed and the interior light issue. Have you given the door switches a try, too? I'm sure your mechanic tested them, but it would be much cheaper to just replace one of those, if that's the culprit. Some of those relays are a pain to access... Regarding acceleration, I've never driven an electronic throttle car, so I can't really answer for pedal feel in comparison to other experiences. Your description seems about normal though; this car is heavy, so acceleration time seems to vary within a certain margin. When the cluster is off, does your tachometer needle look like this? If your tachometer needle rests below the 0 marker when the car is off, it will lead to inaccurate readings. The idle should be around 650 rpm, but my car also reads around 200 rpm because my needle has popped out of place. I need to remove my cluster again to carefully pop it back in place... There's a procedure on this forum that I've reposted to fix that. I can find it again. EDIT: Here is my old post.

It should fit, but both transmissions are different, so parts will need swapping. Your best bet is switching your transmission with one from a 1995-1997 LS 400. This owner on ClubLexus swapped a transmission from a 1995-1997 into his 1993-1994 and got it working. It's the opposite of your question, but still relevant.

I have no idea what would cause these exact symptoms, but perhaps check the trunk wiring harness on the driver's side (?). Also, what was the last job performed on the car, before this occurred? 0-60 should take approximately 8 seconds in normal ECT mode (depending on the weight of your LS.. Higher optioned models could potentially take between 8-9 seconds). It's good to learn how to do some DIY maintenance on these cars. It will save you a ton in repair costs.. Especially if the starter ever goes out.

It sounds like one of your door sensors is worn out, which are also referred to as courtesy switches. Since the car mainly had just a driver, it would make sense for the driver's door switch to be worn out a lot more than the others. This also makes sense, because you stated the lower courtesy light on the driver's side stays on when closed. As a safety and security feature, the doors will automatically lock themselves when it thinks a door is being opened and the car is running. I do not think there is a problem with the keyless entry. Open the doors individually, and try depressing the rubber buttons for each switch . See what happens with the interior lights. Every time you depress the button, the corresponding lights should dim and turn off. If this does not happen, you probably have found the faulty sensor. Here are some useful references for you: Door Sensor Issue LexLS - Front Courtesy Switch Replacement Tutorial Hope this helps you solve this problem. Side note: I still have the fob key for my car as well, but I never use it. According to the owner's manual, it's only useful within 3 feet of the car and the fob switch must always be on, which wastes power. I leave this switch off and just unlock the doors with the master key to prevent any additional battery drain. The fob keys can also become brittle with time and break. This will not lead to any problems with the key itself, other than the button being unusable or missing.

Tires are super important, so it's great you're doing a lot of research. Make sure you find what you want, before buying any. I have had Cooper CS4 tires on my car for about 6 years of daily driving (CS4s were discontinued); however, another one of my family's cars has CS5 Ultra Touring tires, which I drove for a few months this past year. I don't typically go out when the weather is really bad (heavy rain or snow), but I have been out during flash floods and have had no problems with grip using either tire. In terms of handling and comfort, I have had to make some quick maneuvers and these tires never let me down or made me feel uneasy. Noise is also good. I have never acknowledged any tire noise while driving, perhaps partially due to the LS 400's well insulated cabin. When I open the window, I pretty much just hear wind noise. I don't know the real difference between the Ultra and GrandTouring tires, so I can't speak for that. This is a good article on the CS5's handling, in comparison to other tires. I hope my review is helpful, but definitely gather more info than just my recommendation.

I agree with you. Approximately $1 billion was put into the development of the first generation cars. I had an aftermarket LS 400 badge on my trunk, but I got rid of it. Only "Lexus" was written on the trunk, because this car is and was Lexus itself in one entity. It seems they figured it didn't need "LS 400," because it would take away from the overall meaning of the brand. RedTop are AGM batteries, right? I'm a fan of them.. I'm currently using a Die Hard Gold AGM battery [I believe it's this one]. If you're having it changed out by a service worker, make sure they put back any plastic covers you have in your engine bay (or you can remove and hold on to them). The front battery cover and the battery terminal covers are commonly lost or broken due to the negligence of workers.. All of the covers are visible in this image. The main battery cover looks like part of the air duct, but is separate, and the terminal covers are attached to the positive and negative wires. While we're on the topic of belts, has the timing belt been changed yet? 80k miles is about when it needs to be done. It's a fairly big job, but it's not a huge deal if you wait a little longer to do it on the first generation UCF10/11 cars, because they are not interference engines. Basically, this means that the pistons won't crush the valves, if the belt breaks. Good luck with the alternator job. It's not too bad. It would be good to check the PS pump as well, because the alternator will fail again if the PS pump is leaking.

In terms of tires, if you're running the stock rims, I highly recommend Cooper CS5 tires. They're all-seasons that I've had on for a long time, and the ride has been very comfortable. The tires also handle exceptionally well in wet road conditions. Although, note that I don't have the TRAC option and I drive more cautiously in inclement weather. I average approximately 20 mpg ( more or less 70% highway, 30% city ). When you get your tires mounted and/or rotated, double check to see if the rims are in the right direction (left rims on left, and right on right side). Their turbine design aids airflow to improve brake cooling: That still sounds nice with regards to your audio system plans. I have the standard Pioneer equipment on my car, and I had to redo the original subwoofer last year because it had deteriorated from heat and UV. It's a strange 2 ohm subwoofer, so finding an aftermarket match proved to be difficult. The Nakamichi system had a better setup. You'll be giving yourself some peace of mind, although nothing has impressed me more than the OEM headunit. Wow at the color combo. I've only seen a brown one once in person, though I'm not sure which color it was (2 taupe shades were offered). It will grow on you, trust me. When you're waxing the car, put an emphasis on the gold badges. They become very dull over time, if left exposed to the sun without any sort of protective layer. Also, when washing the car watch out for the "Lexus" trunk badge on the driver's side. It is common for cloths, rags, etc to get stuck under there and tear off parts of the badge (especially at car washes...). I've seen a few LS models with only "Lexu" left on the trunk, such as this one: Sorry for the blocks of text, I rambled a bit.. Hope you find this information helpful.

Not bad, John. I like the idea of making everything as if it was equipped from the factory; just make sure you keep all of the original parts that are removed (i.e. exhaust). There's nothing like a clean install. Just a tip with regards to paint; it would be best to detail the car to get rid of any clearcoat scratches and/or touch up the paint instead of paying for a respray. The 3-stage paint on these cars is very expensive and it's very hard to match the original factory quality. A close to OEM finish will run a bill of about $7k, if done right. Any pictures of your car? Can't believe you got it for $1k!

Yes, the bolts are all hidden, except for the two bolts for the middle mounting point. The side bolts sit behind the bumper, attached to the fender. The bolts for the other two mounting points in the center are under each headlight, so they need to be removed first.

Hello, I have a question regarding the front-end headlight and bumper support bracket, highlighted here in red: More specifically, I am wondering about the locations of where the sides of this bracket bolt on to the car, and how. I already know the following: - For the 3 central mounting points on the bracket, each have 2 bolts that attach to the frame. - This bracket can not be removed entirely without first removing the headlights and bumper from the car. I have attached photos to aid in the understanding of my question. Thanks! [SOLVED] I was able to figure out this problem, with the aid of a section from the Repair Manual, sent to me. The bolts located on each side of the bracket attach to the fenders: [DISCLAIMER: These photos are not mine, and are from Lextreme.com and Ebay]

The car was not designed to be run with a bypass. It is important to note that a bypass is only meant for testing purposes of a relay. I do not suggest continuing to run the car with this temporary fix. Given how worn the relay is, I would replace it with a new one to ensure proper function.

Any check engine light? Have you checked for any codes coming from the OBD-I diagnostics port? You can perform a bypass to test the relay. Here is an article that can help you out; even though it's for another car, the concept and application is the same.

A 1993-1994 Pioneer stereo can be compatible with the 1990-1992 units, depending on options. Note that 1990-1994 stereos with CD changers have 3 connectors, while those without only have 2 connectors. Also, the 1993-1994 has an extra security light, as well as a different configuration of what each button can do (FF, Rew, Program, etc), but I'm not sure how much this alters the stereo's function. I created an album on Imgur to help identify all of the differences. The Nakamichi radio will definitely not work without changing out other audio components first, including connectors.

Well, I wouldn't consider this specific section of the forum as being dead, but it does have less activity than it did a decade ago. It's not that everyone got rid of their LS 400s or aren't having problems; I think it's along the lines that these cars are getting older now, so fewer in general are around than there were when the site was formed. A decent amount of new owners don't even frequent these sites either, so that contributes to the activity as well. Fixes and updates will come as they go, but the rate at which they are published has changed.

I hope your wife is doing okay. Looks like you're going to need a new fender, and potentially a fender molding. I can see your door was also bent, but it's nothing that a body shop can't handle.

Any luck, Bigflaco? I hope you have been able to solve this issue. To reiterate the instructions in the thread I linked earlier: access the connector on the backs of the key switch and the trunk release bridge the terminals of the key trunk opener switch on the lower left of the dashboard to open the trunk Here is another thread with the information on the terminals: remove the panel on the drivers side where the trunk and tank release levers are jump 12 volts to the trunk release switch under the dash by closing the circuit with a piece of wire [when you pull the lever it makes the contacts touch sending power to the switch which opens the trunk]

This thread will help you. The owner also could not open the trunk. Basically, bridge the terminals of the key trunk opener switch on the lower left of the dashboard to open the trunk. A search through the forums will provide a more detailed answer on how to do this, if you're not sure. Best of luck.

As Exhaustgases mentioned, the rear windows never open all the way, when rolled down. This is by design, as the door's shape does not leave enough room for the rear windows to move straight down. I have attached an image to show how they should look. The only way to know if the window has come off of the track is to remove the inner door panel. Do you still hear the motor running when you move the switch for the rear window? If you move the switch to the up or down position and hear the whirring noise of the motor, it is very likely that it has come off track. If you don't hear anything the motor may have gone bad. On the other hand, if the window is stuck in position but still on the track, you may hear the motor make a stressed noise when the switch is engaged; this noise is like a hum. Ensure that the window switches are good by testing both the rear window switch on the driver's door master control switch, as well as the rear driver's-side door window switch. Here are some instructions on how to remove the rear door panels. It is not commonly mentioned, but tape should be wrapped around the end of your screwdriver in order to not damage any of the interior trim or parts.

Sorry to hear that Jon is having health problems. I hope he is doing better. Happy to hear you found a good shop with more good individuals. Hopefully other members will check out Candrell Car Care as well. :) Hope you are doing well, Billy.

Thanks, Billy. I definitely agree with you. I intend to add it to the How To Guides section of this forum, but I keep getting errors when I go to the tutorial page. Maybe I just need to reach a certain quota of posts.. I'm still getting familiar with this forum. In any case, I want to make sure that ramnozack gets credit for writing the original tutorial, as I only changed the formatting to make it easier to read. The image would also be good to provide a visual for viewers.