Exhaustgases

Its monsoon season around here, so moon roof leaking and some where in the trunk. Got a 94 moon roof from wrecking yard and cleaned up the seal real nice and used Napa Ruglyde on it. It looks like its sealing much better than the old one. I really can't tell where the trunk leak is but it will fill the spare tire well with water. Its coming from the very back because the trunk lining back there is wet in the lower area. I don't think its the seal, nor the tail lights, any one deal with this problem? Does anyone know exactly where the front moon roof drains exit?

$800 for a radiator is a bit high. But it would be an oem part. I bet you could still get oem if that is what you want online for better price. To change radiator is pretty easy. I don't remember for sure but Oriellys one I did a few years ago was about 130 or so I think.

I've seen that before. It does not mention options. I gather that all the options for 1990 were the very same offered in 1992 model years.

Just wondering if the same options that the 91 and 92 have was available on the 90?

Any news on this one? You can check the pressures, since I don't have a manual on the trans yet not sure about valving that can cause the problem. I have seen bad seal rings cause a heat related pressure loss.

Must be some place in California, here they are way over priced. Other than the T belt and leak any other dweeb's such as dents scratches etc.? That is a super good price at those miles.

I don't think 20 plus year old car radio systems are on the thief's list. They can be had for cheap at a wrecking yard. So now if it is a dealer secret its likely just so if someone has the problem its an easy $100.00.

I don't have the owners manual handy right now. But I think it says when you turn on the ignition the lcd will say security if a code is set. If not then the feature is disabled. I wonder where the info is how to do what the dealers do?

Could be the rear coolant manifold just above the starter.

I agree with the above post. Firestone here charges more for a timing belt on an LS400 than does the dealer. The 1350 looks okay for that work and parts etc. The PS pump price is way off. Steering column? don't get that one. If its leaking seal it? Valve cover gaskets, maybe 400 ish. I know of a place here that wanted 600. I'm not sure about the bulbs deal. What ever, its still better than the price of a new car.

In an emergency a person could always take some aluminum cooking foil and fashion a cover of sorts to deflect the PS fluid. Just don't want is touching anything electrical.

Also where to get them? Does the dealer have them for the older gen 1's too?

I don't know for sure, but its looking like they are attached to the forward headliner, not to the car body.

It could be an actual transmission mechanical ie hydraulic problem, or it could be electrical. And it could be this. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400/656360-all-my-crazy-lexus-issues-solved-ecu-leaking-capacitor.html

I have not found anything anywhere about it. Either it just yanks down to get it out. Or you have to pull down the headliner some to get to screws. Which is it? 90 to 92 are all the same, and not like anything newer that has a plastic cover and screws hiding underneath. These have the rod going through the headliner. I don't think anyone other than dealers have ever removed them on these older gen 1's.

And getting it from the dealer means top $. I did one in a 90 I think about 4 years ago, it was a reasonably priced Oreillys rebuilt, and is still going strong.

I think they are all attached the same way. Has anyone removed them? If so how?

The other day I looked at a 95 with step kid for him. It looked real nice in the ad, and about 110,000 miles. I learned with that one miles isn't everything, yeah power train etc. was probably in good shape had good maintenance records and all. At a distance looked good, till ya saw all the starting to fade clear coat off the paint on the roof and some other areas, then the tell tail sand spots under the painted areas, clean carfax, runs in paint on trunk lid, water under the moon roof and wet carpet. And way over priced. I'd rather have 400,000 miles with what appears to be brand new interior and body and paint of course all factory original. The power train could be nonfunctional as that is the easy stuff.

Are you talking about the ball joint. There are small pitman puller like tools you can use, I have a brass air impact hammer attachment that I use. You then back off the nut and leave it flush with the end of the threaded rod so you don't damage the rod, one little blip usually does the job. On some of these goofy tv shows they all seem to show you the most improper way to release them there method is hard on parts and could even crack or ruin the spindle support bracketry.

After a bit of study, the first simple thing to do is disable the ABS system. Then the brakes are supposed to act like cars without abs. To disable just take out the abs fuse. If all abs are the same type of circuit, there is an accumulator in the control system that is supposed to take the bleed off pressure from the slave cylinders, to reduce brake pressure to that wheel. Not sure but if something is causing that accumulator to stay online that would hold constant pressure in the caliper / slave cylinder circuit. I'm learning about this abs stuff to not an expert, yet.

I'm guessing this. Like the one guy says could be a frayed throttle cable, sticky throttle valve. Or cruise control switch contacts.

I sent a notification

In the old days when that happened is was the pistons in the wheel cylinders had corrosion build up and hold them in the brake on position. Not sure how ABS mechanically works I never had it on a car before. If I was having that problem I would use pressure gages in the lines to see what was holding the pressure. If its low from the master cyl, and high out of the abs then it must be the abs unit. Also some of these cars have the trac system and its supposed to apply the rear brakes to control differential slip that is how I understand it. I've read some stories about that goofing up and causing a rear end slide and spin out. Some owners recommend turning off the trac system in normal driving.

I've studied it a bit. And of course with the grill in the way it wouldn't be easy. But if it will !Removed! to the back some when the mounting bolts are removed then as long as its not the hood latch frozen and just a broke cable. Then you could snare the lever that the cable connects to with some tough line or wire and use it to pull on you would likely need a flexable video scope to see things.

Thank you for the welcome. I agree fine autos.