Exhaustgases

First check any fuses and relay for it, the relay box is just behind the battery, with those 2 screw driver slots on top.

I agree with above posts. Unless you are ready to learn how to, and to spend way more than having a good diagnostic done to it. You will need a GOOD scan tool not a code reader they can be got used in the 200 to 300 or so range and new into the 3000 to 4000 range. Also you will need factory service manuals, you can go to the dealer to study theirs if you can't purchase them. With an intermittent problem like yours it is super difficult to diagnose and even taking it some place they may not find the problem. Just make sure they don't do repairs till they talk to you and you say yes or no to them and get that in writing up front. With a problem like you describe and if it was my car here is the very first thing I would suspect if it didn't show a problem on a scan tool, http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400/656360-all-my-crazy-lexus-issues-solved-ecu-leaking-capacitor.html and yes I would sample the gas to rule out that too. But before removing and checking the ecu I would do normal diagnostic things like checking fuel pressure and ignition system etc. such things as the igniter-s can cause problems you describe, and so could a failing crank or cam position sensor, or even a relay, there are lots of them in these cars. But the slow power down would be more of a fuel delivery type problem. If your car has a fuel pump resistor like the 1st gens do maybe its that. And even the pump it self. If it would die and stay that way the problem is much easier to find.

landar, do you mean suspension type struts or hood lift struts? I've used after market hood struts with no problems, they always need to be freed up though before installing them. Just curious you got me wondering what happened to it. I thought it was a hit to the front. I wish I could run into a super good one like your son did. My 92 is okay has almost perfect interior, and a few imperfections exterior at 137k miles. I think the trunk lid and bumper tops had repaint at some time nothing else repaint though. Not happy with trunk lid. Or front fenders a few scratches on hood etc. Other wise it's okay.

Its only worth, 1500. look for something else, His ad is a lie.

Sorry I don't think there is a posi type differential offered on the LS400's of any year. The Trac system is integrated with the ABS meaning combined, so if a sensor sees a wheel turning faster than the other then the brake is applied to that faster wheel. Trac could not work correctly if there was a posi type system, things would be chattering up a storm. http://lexus.sewellparts.com/oem-catalog/4101MCU728-PowertrainAndChassis-LS400-1992.html If you look at the parts book picture there is no posi parts in the differential, its just a plane jane differential system. Again Trac system would not work with a posi.

Yeah I have talked to them and they did reduce the price of some parts but not as good as Sewell. Maybe I will call and talk to the manager there some time. So I suppose there is a shipping cost if buying from Sewell?

I don't know if there is a speed limit for the cruise control. Could be a safety thing. If there is a built in limit the only way to change it would likely be to reprogram the cruise control ecu, you would really need to know what your doing. That's computer engineering and systems programming or high level electronics stuff, you'd probably have to be at home with assembly language too boot.

http://lexus.sewellparts.com/ Do they offer a price reduction for members? What about other parts places online?

Posi ? Do you mean trac? Just turn it off.

I would really not want Black or white. Though white is best for durability in the sun. Black is too hot and too much trouble shows all imperfections on the body.

I would not buy a Lexus that has a total repaint. If it needs that it was not taken care of. And could have been a flood car, a hail car, a kids messed it up car, and any other numerous problems like that. Gosh then there is all the other problems you mentioned it has. Its only got maybe another 50K or so before other problems could crop up. The initial cost is the bad thing, it doesn't leave any room to fix stuff. Do the math, if your not a mechanic sort and even if you are, your going to put another 3K in it maybe even a diy er time should be factored in, you minds well look for a 7K or 8K perfect low mile car that has no repaint and will actually hold some of the money you spend to buy it. The repaint car will not sell good when and if you decide to do so. Especially with a bad paint job like you described. I and many others would not even look at it if its been repainted. I won't bat an eye at a higher than it should be price on the car I'm looking for. I just want a perfect body and paint and interior, like brand new, and I'd go pretty high $ for the right one. The engine could have a hole in the block that's the easy stuff. A perfect body is not.

All good news for not having it stolen. Not so good when you can't get in. LS's do have a good system. If one key cylinder is setting the alarm then the switch for it is not working. So what is new with this thread, did you ever get in? What happened ?

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400/715345-how-to-check-your-ecu-without-removing-it-from-car-by-yamae.html This should be your very first test to do. Then go from there. The ecu controls everything that you suspect causing the problem. So eliminate the main thing first. Else your just going to be running a loosing race, and trying to fix things not needing fixing that is if it is the ecu. Read the links I sent. If your so inclined you can't possibly fix the ecu just read the info I linked to. After you rule out the ecu then go after the other things you've mentioned. A good test type scan tool can find the problem for you, it is a that will run tests and eliminate or condemn the items tested. But again it needs a good ecu to work with.

I would pay a bit more for one that I want (colors), but it would have to have perfect body and paint and interior. Meaning never a repaint or fix body wise, the engine and transmission could be non operating.

What color is it? Its still an old car and may need some attention to some of the normal fail items.

Yeah all true. But still better than a fire, just not worth taking the chance. The 9 v bat thread exists to show how dangerous electricity can be, even in small amounts, its that simple.

A study of wiring diagrams shows the alternator has power all the time to both the regulator and the rectifier diodes. If something breaks down or has water or oil enter where it shouldn't it could cause a short, kind of like the Ford cruise control switch, hot wires can start fires and even just a small current can too read the 9 volt battery article. A 9 volt battery is not going to put out the amps that some of the fuses in cars will allow. I'm not picking on Lexus, since I do have a few of them. I'm just saying it is possible to have a fire start from a small current or large, and its something to be aware of especially when parking your car in your house. Yeah you loose some radio channels, seat and mirror positions etc. but its better than the alternative, its a good idea to disconnect the battery on any car or truck when inside less you have a good sprinkler system.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/topic/57042-1991-ls400-fire/ I ran across this former thread on this site. It is one of my worries about parking any car in a garage attached to a house. I don't trust electric things much at all, and I have an FCC license that will allow me to work on aircraft radios so I know a bit about the subject. Some years back Ford trucks were catching fire due to the switch located on the master cylinder that was to disengage the cruise control. They would leak and short out causing the feed wire to get hot and thus cause a fire. It just so happened that it was not a fused wire, so Ford had a big recall and the fix was done to the wrong wire so the problem continued, and they finally got it all sorted out and fused the correct wire. Most people think all electric current is nonexistent once the ignition switch is turned off. Not the case. There is memory keep alive current for most of the ECU's in the car as well as the radio, most of the lighting circuits, and power seats, door locks, alarm system, and I think the charging system. And before you poo poo me look at this. http://ehssafetynewsamerica.com/2011/09/01/house-fires-caused-by-storage-of-9-volt-aa-batteries-on-the-rise/ I'll continue later

Sorry, didn't mean to come across the wrong way. It just seems I deal with too many so called "improvements" all the time, they just don't seem like improvements most of the time. Not all just in the automotive world. And I was stating some facts, I guess I should have worded it better.

To cause enough drag the belt would not last 5 minutes.

Its not a graphite lube, its in a spray can and all the lock smith places here have it. It worked on one of my door locks real good, it now works.

Lots of times when R and R ing something you inadvertently touch and disturb other things not related to the job, you could have moved a wire and not even known that you did. There is a coil up front there and other sensors, that the loose belt could have touched when the thing flew off when it broke. So yeah you wouldn't have done it the belt would. There is no way that a pulley bearing and small power loss is the problem that you mention. The problem could resurface and is likely something you didn't know you did when the T belt was changed and then your broke belt fixed it.

Never ever not test the keys and door locks. If you know for sure the keys will work in the doors, find a lock smith place and buy the oil that they recommend for the locks I don't have the name right now but its about 8 to 11 $ for a small can of it. Give it a day do attempt to loosen the locks up. And or try a locksmith or lockout guy. Then theres the door window.

If there was a huge drag from bad bearings the belt would have slipped and squawked. The hp loss to cause a slipping belt would be very small not more than 5 hp at the most. I don't think that was the cause of a hesitation problem. Maybe you wiggled the right wire in the repair process and fixed the real problem. Isn't 95 an obd2 ? When it had the problems you needed to have a decent scan tool to see what the operating conditions were.

You kept the good one. Black is just too hot in the sun, and shows every little imperfection dirt etc.