Exhaustgases

I've read a post someplace about a guy changing out the laser diode to make his work, I don't think there is any available service info on them either, that really makes fixing them difficult.

It could be what you said and could be caused by other things too. One huge suspect item is this http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400/656360-all-my-crazy-lexus-issues-solved-ecu-leaking-capacitor.html I'm not sure I agree with the how to test here, but it works for him. This is a test for the ignitor and the coil. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VG3EZJlyjl8 Running rich would be injector delivering fuel. I wouldn't suspect injectors less it was sitting for months not running.

"The flexible high pressure hose" Where is it found? Don't all 4 brake calipers have them, is that what your talking about?

Both engine oil and automatic transmission fluid have certain additives that deplete over time. A person could use that same theory with engine oil as the person at the dealership used for the transmission. A slow change of the trans fluid should not hurt a thing. As it is helping to reintroduce those additives that are degraded. Rather than a full attempted flush like described above, just do the normal drop the pan at first then just drain on the next engine oil change. Depending on how often engine oil is changed just do the same for the trans. What is it about 2 quarts or so.

According to my 92 manuals, the wheel sensors are not part of it. Like landar says brake switches are part of it both park and pedal. Always a real good check of fuse and where it plugs in, and connectors. It could be something that was disturbed working on it or maybe it just picked now to stop working from some other reason.

Its could be what ever the feed back sensor is, maybe you accidently pulled a wire or connector apart during all the work done on it.

Glad to hear everything is okay.

I think ECU is toast.

I will study it better when I get the time. But for now try this. Ignition switch off and key out. All doors closed, hood and trunk closed. Wait a minute or so lock and unlock driver or passenger door with key a few times. Never disconnect the battery with doors locked, or key in the ignition switch. Oh and if the battery was disconnected with the doors unlocked, make sure they are unlocked before reconnecting it. If you disconnect the bat and reconnect with doors locked your not fixing the problem. So what all did you disconnect when doing the motor change? If the ecu was unplugged and replugged with bat still connected then it maybe goofed up.

Billy you don't look a day over 55, you got another 50 to go.

I think its worth it too look for a higher priced lower mileage car. There are lots of very low mileage LS400's in Florida I would shop around. Why buy high miles and have to put lots of $ into it? I'll PM some cl links, if I post em here they just run out and are bothersome.

Has anyone got anything from OEMlexusparts.com? I'm a bit Leary when there is no physical address listed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Lexus-Valve-Adjusting-Adjustment-Repair-Tool-Pliers-/261634559234?hash=item3ceaa28d02&item=261634559234&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr According to the description it says It will not work? I thought the engines were the same.

Yes, its the same one for 1UZFE's of older vintage. And since the timing belt kits will fit 90 to 97, they must be all the same, except for closer piston to valve clearances, since 95 up is an interference engine.

Yes CV shafts can cause vibration. Any CV I have been around uses a black moly grease. Not sure what Lexus uses. If you are repacking them, you will need to completely take them apart and clean them real well. Some greases don't mix well together. If there is any play they should be replaced.

As far as I know either a Toyota or Lexus dealer will have the shims. Maybe the tools too.

I disagree. I had both a 1990 and 2000 LS400 hit hard in the rear requiring straightening, rear fender, trunk lid, tail lights, bumper beam and bumper cover. Both cars came out looking and driving like new and I drove each of them another four years or so before I selling them. The 1990 was repaired by a body shop that mostly repairs Mercedes, Porsche and Ferrari and the 2000 was repaired by a body shop owned by the local Lexus dealer. I've done it before, have you? Sure a body shop can fix anything. No matter what the whole body is not stock with a hit to the rear panels. Front fenders and hood are just a bolt on deal, no bodyshop needed. Disagree or not my original statement is correct.

People like me don't consider the 93, 94 gen 1 improvements, improvements, I see more costs in parts tires etc. Maybe the a/c, but is there any changes except for the refrigerant?

If a cars body is to be damaged, the best place is in the front sheet metal. It can all be replaced by removing bolts and screws. The back end is the worse, only way to replace panels there is to cut and weld and very hard to make it look original.

Only thing I see that is a big improvement is "anti corrosion steel" But I'm sure its not stainless steel, so I'm not sure what is meant by that term. I sure don't see how the forward head liner being changed to fabric in 93 is any kind of improvement at all. Increasing the steering shaft diameter is a good thing. And revised differential mounts are likely also good. But all this has nothing to do with my question!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! What options did 1992 have that were not offered on 1991 or 1990's????????????????????????????? Like the seat and mirror memory ? Like CD changer? Like electrical controlled head rests? Like the power extend and tilt steering? And what ever else that I can't think of right now. Color options? Other than the tag on the B pillar that shows manufacturing date what else distinguishes the model years apart? I'm glade a 94 moon roof fits a 90, oh that's an improvement the 94 has a better moon roof seal.

I posted above that I had a trunk leak in a 90, it is the seal or gasket. Some how the water is getting into the back side in the pinch weld groove and travelling down to the lower area in the rear and leaking in. Its not leaking over the top of the seal. Do the new seals come with some sort of sealer in them?

Since the trunk was getting wet right towards the back, I was thinking it was the bumper bolt area leaking. Found the leak. Like everyone usually says its the trunk seal, some how water is getting to the inside portion that contacts the pinch weld probably a capillary action or something. Then it travels down that area of the seal and floods the trunk. I pulled the bottom portion away to see it that is a temporary fix. To wet to try to seal it with something now. Do the new seals come with a sealer already on them?

Not exactly. Remote entry and leather seats were optional on the 1990 LS400 but standard on the 1992 LS400. The 1990 LS400 I bought new and drove for 13 1/2 years had cloth seats but it did have the optional remote entry. If you are looking to buy a "generation one" (90-94) LS400, the 93-94 is a huge improvement over the 90-92. What makes them a huge improvement?

A scanner would also show if coolant sensor is correct. And what the O2 sensors are doing, and like what others say LT and ST fuel trim.

Its difficult to trouble shoot radio stuff since service info is sparse. I wonder if the radios suffer from the same capacitor issues the ecu does? It could be as simple as slight corrosion on the connectors.