Jim_Chow

This is what I went by. Read LexusBen's post. He is/was a lexus mechanic. You need to pull the big hose off the throttle body. First remove the v-bank cover (4 bolts), then remove the hose into the TB (screw). You also need to remove the other side since it's not very flexible (a couple of hex bolts hold down the black plastic box in between the TB and air filter box). Careful not to drop them. The rubber gasket thing w/ ferrule in the center came off when I did it; they slide back in. I used a little carb cleaner, a rag, and stainless toothbrush (hardware store). I sprayed the carb cleaner on the rag and rubbed, but the carbon is stubborn, so I sprayed some on the stainless brush and gently scrubbed while depressing the flap, both on the bottom, then from the top (you can gently push it in; make sure the key is NOT in the ignition!!), then wiped the surface w/ the rag. I would NOT spray carb cleaner into the TB directly due to the sensor. The sensor is at 12 o'clock. I didn't have quite as much buildup as in the photo shown (maybe half as much) at 57K mi when I did it. The owner/head mechanic at an indep toyota shop that did the t-chain on my 4runner back in '02 (ex-Toyota mechanic) recommended cleaning the TB (on my 4runner, but any car applies) every 30K mi. http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=9...t=throttle+body

Your next major service is 90K, which means the t-belt. You should also get the water pump done the same time since it's behind the t-belt (they typically last 120K before weeping). 15K mi: - engine oil/oil filter - engine air filter - cabin filters - front rear diff fluid if using dino (otherwise, 30K for synthetic) - t-case fluid if using dino (otherwise, 30K for synthetic) - lube drive shafts - retorque drive shaft bolts - rotate tires - inspect serp belt 30K mi intervals: everything from the 15K mi plus: - flush brakes - ATF exchange using the machine (probably type T-IV for the '02?) - coolant (use Toyota red + distilled water, mixed 50-50) - front wheel bearing repack (biggie in labor), check brakes while at it - audible test for valve (make sure there's no strange noises) - clean flap around throttle body (spray carb cleaner on a rag & use SS brush) 60K mi: everything from the 30K mi plus - AHC fluid flush--make sure you get the height thing flushed (besides the 4 globes) - probably want to replace serp belt (in AZ, mine lasted only 48K) 90K mi: everything from the 30K service plus: - timing belt - water pump (optional)--good idea to do it now since you'll save $$$$ on labor as opposed to doing it later, as you have to pull all the stuff (radiator, serp belt, etc.) from the front part of the engine to access the t-belt covers. - radiator hoses (optional) 120K mi: same as 60K mi, plus - spark plugs (OEM denso iridium) Generally, I flush my brakes every 1-2 yrs (2 yrs max) and AHC every 2 yrs (due to the heat in AZ), PS fluid was burndt at 49K mi (replaced it w/ Redline ATF w/ dextron II). I would check the PS fluidi periodically to monitor condition. The dealer recommends a ATF drain pan drain every 15K mi, but that's overkill. I just have them put in 12-13 qts of new Toyota type IV (a synthetic) every 30K mi using the machine. Other stuff gets replaced when it needs it. If you DIY, you can buy the parts from the Toyota dealer. I buy them on discount on line....much cheaper. Besides my LX, I own/maintain a '86 4runner, which has the same service intervals as above (except the plugs and no AHC, and it has a timing chain that lasts 150K+ mi). Some of the maintenance is not written in the manual, but needed if you want to avoid spending $$$ in the future at the dealer. :-) For example, the throttle body gets a sticky buildup of carbon around the flap. If you don't clean it, the motor that opens the TB won't be able to open the flap at some point, throwing a "check engine" code. Dealer will diagnose code as bad TB, replacement is $1500. You could clean it for $3 of carb cleaner, but they won't do that or even tell you that. This happened to the TB on my 4runner at 120K mi (accelerator would stick), but a local ex-toyota mechanic (who had a truck w/ the same engine) said you only have to clean the TB and showed me. The difference is on the old 4Runner engine, you can spray carb cleaner straight into the TB and scrub w/ the brush. On the LX, you can't, as there's a sensor at 12 o'clock. Carb cleaner on the sensor is BAD, so use a rag and brush. You can push the flap on the top or bottom, as long as the key is not in the ignition on "on" (or it might throw a code). This info comes from a lexus mechanic who offroads a LX. An interview of the chief engineer of the LX470/LC says it's designed for a 30 yr lifespan and 300K mi between overhauls, so if you do the preventative maintenance, you should be fine.

When you use the leatherique oil, the instructions tell you that if the leather is dirty, the surface will have this tacky, sticky residue on it from it pulling the salts & dirt from the leather. I noticed it did this on the seats where people sit, but on unused ones (like 3rd row), it still had that slippery, oily texture after waiting a overnight. Seems like it did it's job, leather is very clean, softer. You then spray on the second part (along w/ warm water in a rag) to remove the muck the oil pulled out of the leather.

Yes. Cool Springs. Took a little persuation but I think the end result was ok. I still don't think Lexus is trying quite as hard as they did in the early to mid 90's to win/retain customers. They're almost as complacent now as Merc & BMW were before Lexus appeared. I'd kinda have to agree... more so at some dealerships than others. Lexus does have their fair share of cocky service writers. I don't know if its because i'm younger than all of them or what, but it seems like the ones closer to my age (22) have a serious problem with being curteous with me. That's the main reason I refuse to go to Lexus of Memphis except for warranty work. After this spring i'll be moving from middle tn back to memphis, so I won't have a choice :( My dealer always nickels and dimes me, no freebies. One time I brought it in at 56K mi (CPO w/ 5 yr/100K) and they stuck to the letter of the CPO warranty and wouldn't fix/troubleshoot a rattle in the top right dash. Said they would have done it if it were still under the original factory warranty. Rattle is still there, I just learned to live with it (would have been 3 hrs labor min to take it apart and reassemble). And I've taken it there for service here and there, even bought it there. I guess the bottom line is, they know I'm not swimming around in $$$$ since I bought a 3-yr old CPO vehicle rather than a new LX w/ factory warranty!! Their service is good if you pay, but no freebies like stories you hear of dealers replacing worn leather seat covers out of warranty. I do most of the maintenance myself (had dealer do the bearing repack and ATF change)...saved myself a grand and that's running all synthetic fluids and OEM parts.

Yep...I agree with that. If I do have to do brakes, the rotors will be turned or replaced. No way will I just add new pads. That is a recipe for disaster. Yes, but this is what the dealer does, at least when they "certify" their vehicles, as it's quick & easy, plus the prospective buyer won't notice during the test drive. Even if you turn the rotors, there's a chance that the trueness won't hold after bedding, as the metalurgy of the rotor may have changed (metal is harder in the spot the PO kept the pads clamped on the rotor), causing uneven friction and wear. Only way to be sure is to replace all rotors and pads at the same time, then bed in properly. Even if you allow the dealer to do the install, problem is, they test drive the rig before you pick it up, so the bedding already might be done incorrectly. Also, the dealer never hand torques the new rotor to the hub (they use the impact for speed). This doesn't exactly help, plus they also don't hand torque the lug nuts (again, doesn't help keeping rotors true).

I should be able to get one for you, I'm looking into it now. you know, i just remembered that i see a lot people selling cd changes on ebay. check there. You have to make sure the inputs fit. I think the 03+ changers are made specially for the LX, as the touch screen needs to communicate w/ the dvd/cd unit.

Yes, the 6-DVD/CD changer for the levinson audio goes inside the center console box. Make sure your navi unit is still under the front passenger seat! I find it hard to believe a replacement is $4.6K. I think the entire DVD navi unit in the center cluster (the screen) is $5K.

The parts you see on the bumper are not cameras, they are the near IR emitters. The camera is by the center rear view mirror. All you would do by blocking part of the emitters would be to possibly reduce range and clarity. Thank you for clarifying this for me. So if there is an inch on both sides of these transmitters, there probably would not be any interference with the night vision system. Do you agree with this? You need to determine the "field of view" (a.k.a., FOV) of the IR transmitter. Every IR device has a FOV (usually specified as an angle; tells you how wide the beam is). You can probably approximate it by measuring the range and width of the night vision image (what is the closest that it works, and how wide is the image). Then use simple geometry to compute the angle. You will likely have an overlap of the two beams in the center, then each individual beam falls off at the edges, but your IR baseline isn't that much (less than the width of the vehicle). So suppose you can see an image 100 ft wide at a distance of 300 ft. Then half of the FOV is atan(50/300)*180/pi=9.46 deg. Just measure +/-9.46 deg (or whatever you determine it to be) from the sensor and see if there is any occlusion. If not, you're in business! If you're bar obscures half the sensor, that's BAD, BAD, BAD!

Ah, I see. Since you have the night vision, I think it's too much of a hassle to reinstall the sensors on a replacement bumper. You'd probably have to recalibrate them, as I'm sure they have to be a certain distance apart, pointed at a certain direction, etc. I think my factory manual has stuff on how to adjust the night vision IR sensors. If I can remember, I'll look.

What are you trying to protect the center against? I replaced the entire center bumper w/ the steel ARB sahara bar. I replaced the rear with a Kaymar dual-pivot towbar. If you get in a collision w/ a center protector, they usually bend into the hood and cause more damage. The ARB replacement bumpers are airbag tested, as you have to replace the front aluminum crush beam behind the OEM bumper...all that comes off (front bumper cover, foam beam, aluminum beam). You'd have to mount the night vision sensor in the air intake slot in the bumper (just use an angle drill from the bottom). For stuff like deer, I hear that center guards are sufficient (probably varies by brand). I have ARB bars on both of my trucks, a full wraparound type on my 4runner (got it after almost running into a herd of deer in the middle of the road in Canyonlands NP in late Dec at dusk, 60 mi from the nearest town). Likewise, I have kaymar rear bumpers on both of my vehicles. 4Runner was bumped TWICE in the rear bumper corner by a teenager trying to park a Tahoe in the mall lot...barely even scratched the powdercoat on the bumper, as it's 1/4" plate steel. With a typical OEM plastic bumper, one would have a huge dent in the corner. http://clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=233506

In my case, I think the PO was hard on the brakes. On my other 2 vehicles which I've owned since new or installed new rotors/pads, the brakes have been perfectly true. The ones on my 86 have 75K mi since the last change, still ~50% life left on the rotors/pads. IMHO, the critical part is if the brakes are bedded properly when the rotors and pads are NEW.

Unlike the GX, the LX suspension is hydraulic. I'd still suspect the AHC height sensors have failed due to rust. I notice you live in the rust belt (I lived in Ithaca for 6 yrs, worked in Rochester one summer). If you were to put a heavy load on the rear of the LX (like a trailer), left the engine running while jacking up the trailer (to relieve the tongue weight), you'd see the rear end lower. I think it would only jack up the rear if the engine were off while you removed the load. I would still guess sensors. The newer sensors reportedly are not as good in build quality as the older ones. Some guys seal theirs up w/ caulk.

Not sure about copies of the valet key, but you will NOT be able to buy a new master key. Once you lose both, you have to replace the key transponder ECU ($1K + $500 labor). Lexus has a one-time replacement whereby they supply the parts and you pay for the labor. When you get a new transponder and set of master keys, if you lose one master key, make sure you buy another ASAP! My LX only came w/ 1 master and valet, so I had to buy another master (and mine was a CPO!).

Usually when the rotors grab, they are not really "warped," but the pad deposits on the rotor surface are uneven. The major problem is improper bedding. The brake pads distribute residue on the rotor surface. When you bed in new rotors/pads, you are effectively distributing this material evenly on the surface. When you change new pads, the new pads are flat, but rotors aren't, so the pad material isn't uniformly distributed on the surface. If you brake hard and come to a complete stop, the pad material is no longer uniformly distributed; the new pad doesn't wear to the shape of the rotor. I'm sure this is what happened to my rotors/pads. WHen I bought my 03 at 50K mi, the front pads were changed at certification, rotors were not resurfaced. I don't brake hard, but they started to slightly grab soon thereafter. When you change pads, you should either resurface the rotor or install a new rotor. One of my coworkers track races and says the rule is "new pads, new rotors." Check out http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml for more on warped rotors. I plan to install a full set of cryogenically frozen slotted rotors w/ Porterfield R4s pads on my LX later this spring or summer. I'll try to document it and post pics. I have non-cryo slotted rotors (Powerslot) and the Porterfield R4s pads on the front of my old 86 4runner...braking is remarkably improved, no fading under repeated hard braking, no warping. Pads/rotors are at about 50% after 75K mi (last 30K mi 100% city driving). I only do the installations myself, as I don't trust the dealer doing the install and then "test driving" it w/o the brakes being bedded. That can lead to immediate "warping." On my 4runner, I did the work myself. So far, no issues, and I know everything is done to factory spec.

No harmonic muffler noise on my 03. Only noise I get from the exterior is an occasional buzzing from the plastic panel above the left rear wheel in the wheel well. That piece of plastic is thin and the only damping are the 3 bolts that hold the rear bumper to the body via that panel. Since I replaced the rear bumper w/ an aftermarket one, I just bolted those three bolts directly through that panel into the body, but the panel is so thin it will vibrate if the engine is cold and it's cold outside and you are at a red light idling. I think the solution is to increase the mass of the panel using something like peel n seal roofing asphalt.

Yep, your bulb has burned out most likely. If the bulb is still good, you have a short in the connection up to the lamp. Either way, the circuitry is sensing an open circuit.

The 2UZ is an interference engine. If the t-belt breaks...major valve train damage.

The OEM windshields use aluminum rivets on the moulding pieces on both sides. If they don't install it correctly, it's the mouldings that create the whistling sound. I had my dealer install a lexus windshield...no whistling sound. They contract out to a glass company for all their windshield replacements, so they are familiar with the LX/LC windshields. If the installer isn't, they could damage the interior trim and/or body around the windshield.

No stability control on the '99's. VSC and ATRAC started in 2000. Watch out for the 2000's. A few had a defective part in the tranny. Side/curtain airbags became standard around '02. '03 got the 5spd transmission and redesigned interior. Engine is interference, t-belt should be done at 90K. Water pump is usually done at time of t-belt since it's located behind the t-belt.

Since you have a '03, it should use the same Type T-IV as my 03 (it will say on the dipstick what type to use). FYI, Mobil does NOT make a synthetic type T-IV. FWIW, I'm told by a couple of sources that the Toyota brand type T-IV is synthetic. Lexus dealer charged $12.95/qt! The Amsoil ATF is supposedly type T-IV compatible. I'm sticking to Toyota's for now since (1) I have the dealer do the ATF exchange since I don't have one of those ATF machines and (2) the vehicle is under warranty until 100K, so if there's an issue w/ the tranny, they can't say it's damaged because I didn't use Toyota brand T-IV or that I didn't have it serviced properly. Also, the Amsoil isn't cheap, about $120 for a 2.5 gal container, and you need two 2.5 gal containers or $240 of ATF. Some dealers won't allow you to provide your own fluids/parts, some will and will just charge you labor, while some will but will still charge you the entire amount. Labor is 1 hr, so Amsoil would have cost me $350. Cost was ~$250 for a 12 qt exchange using Toyota T-IV. SM said they typically do a 8 qt exchange (so 2/3 of the ATF is new) to keep the costs down, but they then recommend an interim 15K drain & fill (3 qts). You save in labor if you have it done at 30K intervals with no interim drain & fill. Either that, or you do a drain & fill every oil change so that after 30K mi, you've finally replaced all the ATF.

What year are both of your vehicles? The SM told me that some years got a resistor, some years got an entirely new DRL relay.

When I replaced the battery a few weeks back, added aux lights, and installed the XD HID's, I pull the battery out of my old 4runner and use jump cables to keep all the systems alive, maintain the nav settings, etc. A lot easier than trying to reprogram everything in. :)

I get most of my parts from Landcruiser parts guru, Dan, at American Toyota in Albuquerque. Pretty much any parts in common with both vehicles, like engine/maintenance parts, are the same as on the Landcruiser. I think he also has the corresponding lexus part numbers. If you join the ih8mud board and order from him, you get a nice discount. He really knows his stuff. I've gotten great prices from Sterling-McCall Toyota in Houston before, but they could never get my order right...there was always something missing or just plain wong. Toyota of Grapevine also has decent prices.

It's ironic that you mention you have bulb problems after the DRL recall. My SM just called saying the recall applies to all LX's 98-05, and asked if I wanted it done. I declined. :)

I keep the keys to all of my cars on different key chains.