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Sunbeam

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Everything posted by Sunbeam

  1. I had a tire destroyed today from a rock in the road (the sidewall got punctured). I put the damaged tire/wheel in my trunk, put the spare on, brought the pressure up and "initialized" the tire pressure warning system with that little button buried all the way down. But I still get that inflation warning light. Can someone confirm that, indeed, the system looks at all 5 tire/wheels. And if this is the case, would the light go off if I removed the damaged tire/wheel from the trunk until I get the tire replaced. Thanks!!!
  2. I've got exactly the same rattle from the same place. I know I must get it repaired (it really wrecks the driving experience) but I'm also concerned about them pulling apart the entire dash. Do you know what they did to repair it? Is there a tech service bulletin on it? Thanks!
  3. My 98 ES has 120K miles and had all the struts etc replaced at around 50K. Going over bumps I hear what I can only describe at as "clunks" coming from the front or left front. I brought the car to our local mechanic and then Toyota. The local mechanic found nothing wrong and Toyota only said a single bushing needed to be replaced (which was done). But the sound continued. Any thoughts? BTW is the test for bad sturts the same as the old test for shocks? (push down hard and see if it returns without excessive bouncing). Thanks all!
  4. For the past few months, I would occasionaly (not too often) try to start the car and it would not hold an idle. On the second try I would give it a bit of gas to keep the revs up for a few seconds and then it would be fine. Today, starting cold I could not get it to hold despite many tries. I did manage to get it back up again by keeping the gas depressed and keeping the RPMs at about 2000 until the engine was partially warmed up. Help - what goes? Is this something the local Toyota dealer can handle since I'm tired of the Lexus over-charges. Thanks in advance.
  5. Thanks Mike! I think using only synthetic oil helped extend the battery life. In the past I usually replaced batteries at 3-4 years whether they needed it or not. It just I've heard more recent stories about new ones crapping out and with mine turing over so strongly I thought there was still plenty of life left in it so I keep it for these many years (and it made it though the last NJ winter parked outside!). Thanks again - Stan
  6. OEM battery in a 1998? Wow, that last longer then mine. I thought mine was doing great with it started to die in 2004. If you hear a clicking that is good, means your battery is dead. Could be bad plates, bad cells, etc or bad alt. I would buy a new battery (since you need one after 7 years) and call it a day. I baught an Optima....Lexus starts like on crack! :) To test charge it up and see if the car starts or put another battery in (from another car) and see what happens. I would guess (99%) sure, it is a bad battery. I would do that since you again need one and it is cheaper then buying an alt from the start. The clicking is the solenoid clicking and the starter does not have the power to turn engine/flywheel over. ←
  7. My 1998 has 115,000 miles on it and the original battery which cranked perfectly strong and well the last time I used it. Today, however, when I tried to start it all I got was clicking noises and ALL of the warning light lit up as I was attempting to start. The headlights all turned on, but I couldn't judge form their intensity whether they were at full power or much diminshed. Anyone have a similar experience? Thanks!!!!!!!!
  8. It's hard to believe, but I am still running my original battery. The car has 115,000 miles and has only seen 5-20 synthetic oil (a clue, perhaps to it's longevity). In the past, I have routinely replaced my batteries after 4 years whether I had to or not, assuming they would fail soon anyways. But this car is not garaged, in north NJ, and is still turning over and starting easily now on 20 degree mornings. With all I'm reading about new batteries failing, I'm hesitant to replace it. What do you think? Also, when I finally replace it (prob with a Sears Northern region battery) which battery type fits the 98 (there are apparently 2 choices, but I'm not sure which is largest, capacity-wise.) Thanks!
  9. During the last 2 winters, our 2001 RX's steering wheel squeeks loudly (with a moderatly high pitch) and continuously when the wheel is turned. It goes away when the interior warms up enough. Sounds like it needs some lubricant somewhere. Has anyone experienced this? Thanks!
  10. I'm not familar with a motorvac. Is this some sort of concentrated fuel cleaner? I do use a full container of RedLine Fuel cleaner in a single tankfull every year or so. Supposedly the Redline product can be used to clean up to 100 gallons so I am using it "full strength". Thanks for your help!
  11. The check engine light just turned on my 98 ES300. Lexus says I need 2 (front and back) Air Fuel Ratio Sensors $338 each plus 2 hours labor. Is there a cheaper way around this? Last year I did ocasionally (not often)encounter problems starting the car when hot. It wouldn't hold an idle for the first few attempts. I wonder if this is related. Bottom line- do I really need to replace these or can I get along without them? I plan to sell the car in about 6 months. Thanks
  12. The shaking problem - could be wet gas. try throwing in a few cans of dry gas (the isopropyl type, not the methanol type)
  13. I'm a bit confused as to whether the all wheel drive RX300 has all 3 of these. Can't tell from the owner's manual (supplement) whether the transfer case oil and the differential oil are separare units each requiring separate fluid changes for a total of 3 including the transmission itself. When I go in to have these changed, I'd like to appear reasonably knowledgeable. Thanks.
  14. On my 01 RX300 I find it far easier to remove and install the oil filter from the bottom. You must remove the lower black plastic cover but that is easy. With a light from above you can just see enough of the filter to approach by hand. I then use a socket type filter tool along with a flex head ratchet wrench. Make sure you clean the flat plate surface with an oily towel. BTW, a trick I have learned over the years to facilitate the easy "release" of the oil filter from the socket: I put some thin kitchen plastic wrap over the filter and then put on the socket. Othewise, the angled-type twisting from removing/putting on such a hidden filter tends to jam it in my socket. Nothing like mounting a new filter with a 1 revolution turn to find you can't pry the socket off of the filter. I have a question: When I was a kid (years ago) it was semi-common practice to run an engine for 2-5 seconds after the oil has drained to push out more. Any thoughts on that? I have done it occasionally with more modern cars and sometimes see another slug of oil drain out. I really don't see a chance of damage since there is that proverbial thin film of oil still on all moving parts but...
  15. Can we assume that if you change your oil religiously (but at 7500 miles) and you use a synthethic oil (I use Redline), then this problem cannot, by definition, occur?
  16. On the 98 you just pull the housing (essentially a cover) of the brake light unit back (in the direction of the front of the car) and it unclips. Very easy.
  17. What annoys me most about the new model (and will probably preventme from getting another) is that they did away with that lower plastic panel on either side. The 2-tone color scheme is what orignally distinguished the ES (and other Lexus) from the less-premium cars AND it offered far more ding protection than the strip they have now. Looks a lot cheaper! My 2 cents.
  18. I'm thinking about the 04 ES330 (presently driving a 98 ES) but am concerned as we all are about the continuing possibility of the tranny problem. Today I took a look at the new 04 Camry V6 Solara (because the ESs have never been great in the handling dept). Is the Solara 04 5-spd Auto transmission (which is standard withthe V6) the same transmssion as what we would get in the 04 ES330? In fact, has the Camry V6 in 02 and 03 been sharing the same transmission as the ES in those years? (since I have not heard of outraged 02, 03 Camry owners)
  19. My problem only occurs when the engine is hot (just driven in the last 5-10 minutes) and does not happen often even under these circumstances. Would you expect a crack/pinhole to impact the inability to hold an idle or would this just lead to a unsmooth idle (once started and later during driving, the idle is VERY smooth). The engine does start, but unless I hold the pedal slightly down the idle immediately drops to zero. I've just tried a can of Redline cleaner - I'll let you know if it helps (but I used a can about 9 months ago after the problem first arose and it didn't seem to help).
  20. A 2 part question: 1) I've lost track of those of you with tranny problems on the 02 and 03 (I have a '98). Would you expect the new ES330 to POSSIBLY have the same transmission problem or has it all been solved? 2) When I had a recent dealer ES loaner (02 or 03), I didn't observe the tranny problems but I thought the handling and cornering was far more boat-like than my 98. Are there aftermarket suppliers for heavier anti-sway bars and the like that drop in without modifiction? I don't expect it to handle like my weekend Corvette, but I'd like a bit more. Thanks
  21. Thanks guys. Of course the manual sez to go to dealer suggesting only they can fix! BTW, if you enter CR2016 on Goggle you can get this as a name brand for only $5/10 (if you could eventually use that many!).
  22. When I try to start sometimes (not often) the engines starts but the RPMs drop to zero and engine quits. When I repeat, the same things occurs again. When I repeat, however, and hold the throttle down very gently for a few secs, the proper idle takes hold. Car has 100,000 miles, plug replacement had no effect. Occurs primarily, it seems, if the car is warm to hot from recent drive. Anyone have this problem diagnosed? Thanks!
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