SuperCoupe400

I've been noticing a really disturbing thing that only seems to happen on very tight, slow speed turns (like when i'm doing u-turns in a parking lot, or backing into a parking space with the wheel fully cocked to one side or the other). The front wheels feel like there may be some sort of linkage failure - the same type of occassional jerky slippage you would feel if your front wheel drive car had a bad CV joint. I used to think it was one of the tires slipping sideways over loose branches or rocks in my driveway as i turned real sharp, but i've noticed it happening even on perfectly smooth asphalt. Anybody else experience this? I changed my front brakes and rotors recently and i'm certain i tightened all the lugs down good, so i don't think it could be the result of a wheel that's not on tight. thanks.

Don't know about the heat coming in the car, but i just finished diagnosing the radiator light issue i was having a month back. After doing a coolant flush, replacing the thermostadt and radiator cap, i found out it was a faulty coolant sensor. It's right up top, to the left rear of the radiator. It sticks down in the coolant reservoir (screws out). My SC4's a '93, so if your sensor hasn't been replaced yet, then that might be what it is. i just unplugged mine and the radiator light stays off. You'll find the connection hanging off to the left side of the reservoir. Unplug it and see what happens. A new sensor runs about $97 at the stealership, and i'll be picking one up soon, but unfortunately that's the onyl place i seem to be able to locate one.

Yeah. I tried for the longest to find something too. We've got a specialty car model shop over here that's got acccess to any model made, and as soon as I told the guy I was looking for the first generation body style he just shook his head. It's too bad they only make models out of the SC430. It was the 300 & 400 that really set the luxury coupe on it's ear, aesthetically speaking. But try this link: http://plusic.jp/Minicar/hotreg.htm This is about all i've been able to find. You won't see the SC4 right away. You'll have to scroll through a bit. These, however, aren't your "normal" scale diecast models. These are more of a Hot Wheels scale. That's why I ended up not even bothering to get one.

I installed brand new shocks just 8 months ago. I expected them to be slow and lethargic in the middle of a cold winter - which they were. Once summer hit and they were able to operate in regular temps, they did respond much better, but i've still gotta hoist the lid up a good 1/4 to 1/3 of the way before the shocks take over and lift it the rest of the way.

I know I'm really late on this one, but I figured I'd throw in my $.02. I've never heard of any oil that only needs to be replaced every 15k. I've been using Mobil1 since I got my '93 SC4 at 88k but would love an alternative to the frequent $62 oil changes. I put about 22k/yr on my ride. This Amsoil product sounds like the automotive fountain of youth. I'll have to really look into that for myself. I used to do all my own oil changes, but it's just too hard to get to the filter on the SC4. But I thought it might be interesting to some to know that my previous car ('91 Integra) ran 273k on conventional oil. Off & on during the last 4 years before I sold it, I often went 10k to 12k without changing and sometimes without even topping the oil off - (not that I'm proud of having mistreated my baby, beleive me, I'm ashamed) - but it's just a testament to the fact that if a Honda engine is designed to be that "bullet proof" - and they are - you know a Lexus engine will far surpass that.

I'm kinda tired of seeing all the other $45k+ rides around me with trunk lids that pop open with the touch of a button, but my own ride ('93 SC4) came without that amenity. I know i can get a trunk "opener" key-fob option from any auto alarm place, but does anyone here have an actual "popper" installed? You know, something that'll pop it far enough open for the pneumatic shocks to finish opening it the rest of the way, and not just unlock it? If so, were they able to hook it up to the under-dash release switch too, or just the remote key-fob? Thanks.

Man, that's scary. Especially considering that I've got a '93 SC4. I really feel for you, man. But i've never heard of this happening to anyone else. You didn't recently have some aftermarket alarm or fog lamps, or anything else that may have been improperly installed to cause the fire, did you?

Okay. I found the problem. It is the coolant sensor (Level Warning Switch Assembly). I'm pretty sure it's gone bad. I unplugged it (the wire coupling, not taking it out of the resovior) and the light hasn't been back on since. Someone in an older post about this same problem mentioned possibly cleaning this part. I'm curious to know if that can even be done, seeing as how the part housing the sensor is enclosed in a seamless plastic tube. Not to mention, it seems impossible that anything might even make it's way into the sensor - given that solidified "jello-like" seal is unbroken. Oh well, guess i'll just fork over the $96 for a new one some time before winter hits. I can't find the part anywhere but the dealer - yet.

Well, since I think i've exhausted just about every remedy, I think my next step will be performing a back-flush. My brother's a certified mechanic, so he should be able to help me find which hose to splice into for the back-flush kit. Other than that, someone mentioned in a post on a previous radiator topic, that the sensor inside the coolant reservior may be bad. But that replacement will be a last-ditch effort. First I'll see how much that part runs.

Aesthetically, I think the black adds a decent contrast that inside a car with a darker interior it might get lost. But, realistically, all I keep thinking is - shiny black plastic inside a $45,000 luxury sport coupe... nahhhh Had you thought about (after having sanded the trim peices) just doing a black stain then high-glossing the peices? This would have still given a very nice effect - plus let some of the wood grain still read through. Nothing says high-priced luxury like real wood. Especially when so many other cars are faking it. But if the wood grain just isn't your cup of tea, I can dig that. I just think your new interior, while perhaps standing out a bit more now than before, took a hit on "class". imho

My radiator light ("93 SC4) started coming on a few days ago. It typically lights up once the engine get's close to normal operating temp - but sometimes after less than only two minutes of the engine running. The engine never overheats or even tries to - even after driving 30 minutes home or work. Operating temperature is normal and constant. I've changed my coolant (plus used a coolant system cleaner - I think it was Prestone Super Flush), installed a new radiator cap (just in case pressure was escaping through the OEM one) and also replaced the thermostat (turns out some of the gasket material in it was a bit warped and corroded anyway). I thought I was home free after having taken it for a good 40-minute spin that night with no radiator light, but the next day on my way to church the radiator light came back to haunt me. I was going to do a back-flush, but couldn't quite tell which hose to make the splice into for the flush-kit. But something tells me that not even a back-flush will cure this issue, because the coolant I drained out appeared to be in really good condition. I figure that clearing the computer codes (disconnecting possitive battery terminal for a few minutes) won't do any good, because the light isn't on from the moment the engine is started - only once it heats up. What could this be? Anybody have any suggestions - besides me getting raped by taking it to the dealer? thanks.

Hey everyone, I'd like to do a complete pad and rotor replacement on my '93 SC4. I've done this several times on my Integra, but it didn't have ABS, so there was nothing special to look out for besides making sure to bleed the brakes when done. Is there anything (like sensors, pnuematic gizmos or anything else) that I may need to have recallibrated, reset, re-adjusted or otherwise tampered with to make sure the ABS still behaves properly when i'm done? Or does this job have about the same degree of dificulty as pad+rotor replacement on a non-ABS vehicle? Will I need any special callibration tools? I'd much rather pay $325 for all four rotors + high-grade(front) & ceramic pads(rear) at the import parts place and do this myself than get raped by the dealer at a ludicrous $1,410 - which they just quoted me. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! btw: I don't have access to this forum website during the day at work, so it will a at least a day before i can check back on replies.

I drove a '91 Acura Integra that I got used with 70k on it in '94. It was the first car I bought with my own money. I got 273k out of the original engine, and (reluctantly) sold it. But the kid who bought it is a tuner, so I know the teg will be resurected with all the mods I never had the money to get done (i.e., lowering, extensive bodywork, etc.) - I wish I had kept it now, the 2nd generation body style is nearly timeless. So how about you all? What were some of your previous rides?

Thanks for the replys. I kinda figured it was a humidity control thing. I just don't like the thought that the car may be sucking up more gas that necessary (running the ac) and the extra pull on the engine, so I usually just turn the ac off when doing "auto" climate control. MJB

I love the look of bauhaus simplicity implied in the tail light design of the '92-'94 SCs. Especially the totally unique linear look and presence held by the full-length horizontal turn signal as it flashes changing lanes down a dark highway. Don't get me wrong, though, the subsequent year tail light designs are fresh too. Just not as "clean" as the original. What I don't like though is how only the outer-most portions of the tail lights illuminate (when not braking). Is there a way to re-wire the tail lights to light up on both sides of the reverse beams whenever the lights are turned on (like they do when you brake) but at the normal driving light intensity? Is this something an auto accessory shop would be able to do with no problem, or is it something I could probably handle myself? Anyone here done it before? Thanks, Michael

The first time i tried using the auto climate control for heat in my '93 SC4, the AC decided to get in on the action too. Why in the world, especially in single-digit temperatures, would the AC kick in when using the auto climate control to get the cabin to 76 degrees? The only logic i could see behind it is in possibly controling the air's moisture content. Is this normal? Can anyone enlighten me? thanks, Michael