TGS1969

This about says it all: Bon appetit!

http://www.daizensporttuning.com/menu/dealers.html

Looks like an old post, but did you finish the job already? (It's Plenum, not Platinum btw). If not, which powerplant option is in that model?

Belt slipping, low fluid, pressure or fluid loss, blockage due to coagulated fluid in the feed lines. Flush the P/S tank and system is a cheap alternative. If still heavy steering, possible pump failure, if is heavy but then releases and is easy to turn and then becomes difficult again, possible rack/pinion unit failure. Or you've been driving a Honda and are used to that system, lol.

I've never even heard of someone attempting to clean a MAF sensor, except for the people that ended up having to buy one for trying to. There's money in old converters and unless you're in California there arent any regulations on them, recyclers pay top dollar for them, some have platinum. Leaks in the exhaust, leaks in the EVAP system, a rotted EGR recirc hose can attribute to that code, by the sound of it, you'll have the codes after replacing them both and O2 sensors are completely different codes.

Performance Radiator www.performanceradiator.com part# 2222 95.00 We use them for all lexus models, exact OE blueprint. Not a whole lot of brands out there, most are chinese remakes that just aren't that exact when it comes to fitment, imo.

Unless you have an oil leak at the front of the motor or hear an audibel clicking noise while idling then leave it alone. Service interval for that belt is 120-170k miles. From personal experience, the Contitech set is probably the best set out there aside from OE. Changing the cam seals ramps your labor up an extra couple hours.

Victor Penn Brand Left side 611180 Right side 611190 Rather than one complete 2-fan unit, this model has 2 1-fan units, each with its own bracket assembly. Autopart International $90 per unit :)

Too bad you're not local to me unless that thing can float. What's the problem?

A 5 dollar wiper by KleenView will last just as long as a $100 OE blade, your choice.

A universal should be just fine, less than $200.

Broken spool pin, or rather, mising the plastic around it, (crumbles away) causing retraction beyond the starting point giving you a shorter belt. Replace the spool assembly and reuse the belt or get the entire assembly with a belt from a junkyard.

18 inch 40series no taller than 235 with no suspension mods. I've seen them with 30s but that's a massive suspension modification.

One last edit and it turns my itemized post into a wall of text. Editor doesn't save layout options, so best get it perfect the first time eh?

The control arm bushings, ball joint and control arm itself are one complete unit. Removing ball joints from an aluminum control arm without breaking the end off in the process is why it's a single unit. The engine must be supported otherwise you face hours of constantly moving a 600 pound+ engine another sixteenth of an inch to get the engine mounts' bolt holes to line up after the control arms are replaced. There is an apparatus that looks similar to a sawhorse with the four legs sitting on the shelf where the hood closes onto above the fender. A small winch in the center is attached to 2 places on the engine so it can be raised/lowered and tilted during installation. Typical life expectancy of lower control arms, ball joints and related bushings is about 300k miles IF the bushings havent been saturated with oil/transmission or power steering fluid for...years. If you're dealing with a small rattle over the slightest road bumps after your struts have been replaced, then replace the stabilizer links; 2 in front and 2 in the rear. It amazes me the amount of techs that diagnose a rattle with some struts when it's the stabilizer links that are really the cause of the noise. Good luck!

Have them heat up the bolts and then bang on the Ypipe to break the rust free around/underneath the bolt heads, douse with PB and remove them. Otherwise they'll need to be melted off with ye old torchomatic :)

Chances are that if the wire was cut, something probably hit it hard enough, to not only cut the wires, but probably damage the sensor in the process. They are kind of brittle when it comes to brute force. Another possibility is the low brake fluid sensor shorted telling the ECM the fluid is low when it isn't, or the fluid is actually low. Some ABS modules require a reset after new sensors are replaced and quite possibly may also be the culprit.

Lower control arms at 40k miles? That shop sounds a little too hungry. It's normal for the bushing to crack and the edges of the rubber to fray with age. What you can see of the rubber is not what is doing the job so to say. Now if the complete rubber bushing is missing that's the time to do them, but by then you couldn't even drive it safely, much less, straight....and there would be huge clunking sound on every bump. Find another dealer, that one's gonna rake you.

To remove the upper intake plenum: Remove the strut tower brace - 4x 14mm nuts Remove the intake hose from the throttle plate together with the whole top of the airbox assembly as a unit, disconnect MAF sensor. Use line-locks on the two small heater hoses connected to the throttle plate and remove them. Remove all other vacuum/blow-by hoses connected to the upper intake plenum. Remove the PCV valve hose from the valve. Disconnect the large electrical connection from the plenum. Remove the 3 support bolts from the rear of the plenum, two 12mm and one 14mm Remove the ground wire from the plenum. Remove three 10mm nuts holding the vacuum valve bracket on the plenum, lift up and prop it up while you: Remove the two 14mm nuts and four 8mm allen bolts and give a slight wiggle/tug upward to release the plenum seal. Lift the plenum up in the front to clear the 2 studs and slightly turn the whole manifold counter-clockwise 15 degrees and it should fall into your hands. The upper intake plenum gasket is quite hard to find without buying a complete upper and lower manifold gasket set from most aftermarket jobber parts vendors, but after a bit of research I found these two listings: Beck-Arnley part# 0374847 and Fel-Pro part# MS96586 *** Spark Plugs used: Denso Iridium Long Life part# SK20R11 Additional notes: Anti-seize compound was used on all new spark plug threads prior to installation. A 1/4" ratchet and a 12mm shallow socket were used to remove the two rear support bolts A 14mm wrench was used to remove the third support bracket bolt A 1/4" ratchet, 10mm shallow socket and 4" extension were used on all other 10mm nuts. A 3/8" air ratchet and 14mm deep socket were used to remove the 4 of 6 strut tower brace nuts. Line-locks are recommended as they cause no internal hose damage while keeping fluid loss to nonexistant. It is quite common that the small press-down clips that secure the connection to the coils, break off due to the brittle nature of plastic after 100k+ miles, just make sure they are all the way on during re-assembly. They won't rattle off in the future due to the rubber moisture seals inside of the connectors holding them in place. You've already done the front bank, so no need to go into a spark plug R&R tutorial at this rate. This tutorial was written to help techs as well as DIYers to be able to do this tune-up within the 1.1 hrs the Labor Guide allots. Be advised that the Upper Manifold Plenum Gasket has a book time of 2.2 hrs., not including spark plug replacement, so there's a happy medium in there in case your job turns into a PITA.

Hi, I'm TGS from Florida and have an 05 es330 in my repair shop today. I always do a quick search of the net for any tricks that might be out there and read a C&P'd repost here about some guy with very small "child-like" fingers that was able to remove the back three plugs without removal of the upper intake plenum. I found that article to be hilarious, considering how brittle the plastic connectors/vacuum hoses can become after 100k+ miles....why cost yourself more money replacing additional parts trying to do it the hard way in such a place that has so little space? So I thought I'd post a repair proceedure for those back three plugs which includes the mandatory R&R of the upper intake plenum process.