ArmyofOne

http://sportsillustrated.cnn.com/2004/foot...es.r/index.html

Reggie white was a Defensive Lineman (mostly defensive end) for the Philidelphia Eagles and the Green Bay Packers.

At least he got to spend christmas day with his family (im sure). RIP "Minister of Defense", you and yours are in our thoughts and our prayers. See you on the other side.

alright. well as far as I know the oil was changd regularly except for the one right before I bought the car...it was changed and then sat in storage for a year, then I bought it and changed the oil. It seems to be running fine, I've only used synthetic oil since I bought it. Is there a 'test' of sorts to see if there is sludge?

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look at the inside of your oil cap (turn it upside down) and also take a peek inside your valve covers. i dont really know of any other way without removing the oil pan.

So is it worth installing when I get it to try it out, or is there a risk of hurting the car (at all) if i do try it out?

Thanks

Chris

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This resistor chip is unique and won’t fit to another car!

that link is a mod for a ford. :D

to answer your question, no, i wouldnt think it would damage anythig. it couldnt hurt to try it.

That is really strange. It almost sounds like the transmission wasn't engaging or something, but I think you may be right about the electrical part. You sure that you didn't break the back tires loose? I have had that happen in the rain.

No the tyres 100% did NOT lose any grip at all. It is something to do with the other problem of the hesitation I just know they are connected. Just want to know whats causing it!

Bison

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it soubds like Torque converter slip to me. you push your foot down and nothing. it just revs. try a slow application of pressure. every once in a while my 90 ES250 will give me a bit of TQ Conv slip. usually only if its really cold and i drive like a nut (i never do them both at the same time). but it will only do it if i slam the gas down unexpectedly. i think it has more to do with the ECM telling the tranny what to do that the tranny itself though. LS400 doesnt have a hesitation issue that i know of, but i could be wrong on that.

no link in your thread.

doesn't matter.  If it is the Tornado or a chip flash......I would have spent the money by taking my mother to a nice lunch.

steviej

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yeah they are a total waste. i think the only gain i ever saw was about 2HP at the wheels on a contour, to say nothing of a lexus that probably has more drivetrain loss.

any update on this? im almost certian the car is totalled, but just interested to see what the ins says. and dont EVER (well, under most circumstances) take the first check.  make them give you 2 or 3 offers, sometimes you get more.  also, get an attourney to represent you if the need arises.  if you feel like you are getting reamed, just call a lawyer, personal accident and injury attourneys jump on cases like this...red light runner = automatically at fault.  they see it as a case thats already won.

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Thanks for asking. Looks like I am in a holding pattern until the Insurance Company determines fully and without question that there are no insurance options available to the other driver and/or owner. The driver provided a bad address and phone number. No contact will be available there. The Owner has a bad phone number and the address research is pending comparison with DMV records and the like. It is unknown if he has insurance but the car has current tags. In Texas, one must show proof on insurance for such a transaction. We will see. No matter what happens I am moving on and am very fortunate to have been in a very safe and resilient vehicle.

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yes thats a law in texas, and you are welcome. hope it didnt ruin your holiday. i had a car accident thatcost me over 10,000 dollars this year, between the old car that i totoalled, buying the new car, fixing the new car (got a bad one) and time missed from work.

So how does Sal pass this test.  If you are in the military and Sal is a co-worker, doesn't he have to get tested?  and to light up anything with someone else in the car is rude and selfish.  At least it wasn't YOUR car.

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i work full time at motorola, he works with me there. army is only part time :)

What the...?  Snowing in Texas ?  I guess my conception that Texas in general is a very hot/warm place is wrong.  I see that you were driving your ES250 that day.  You have other cars that you drive right or is it just the Lexus now?

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i have the other cars i can drive, but oddly, my favorite for in the city is the lex. it's peppy enouh to scoot me around town, and gets ok mileage, and is super easy to park. the Chrysler Concorde Limited is a very comfortable car, dont get me wring, #1 but the transmission is going out...#2 my mom and i share it (i helped her buy it). ...its mostly the highway/road trip cruiser. the F-150 is the haul-stuff-around vehicle. its my dads for the most part, but i use it alot too. and the 68 Charger R/T (see sig) sucks in everything except a straighht line (too much HP!!), gets crappy mileage (5-8 in city...S/C Sucks!!) has no power anything (including brakes/steering) and is in perfect condition (doesnt see snow, mainly because with all that HP (its highly modded) it would not move, it would just sit there and spin). thats my dad and i's baby, and its in storage for the winter.

so i have 3 cars to choose from on a daily basis, but for my needs, i almost always choose the lex, its the most practical. B)

if an engine is bad enough nothing will return it

but i very much disagree with a good flush

i use them every 3rd oil change

it cleans so much crap out of an older engine it is amazing

but i always run new dyno oil for 2-3 dyas and then flush it out with synthetic as i don;t want any flush running in my engine for any long periods

a synthetic oil is also a good cleaner of old oil but the higher end like amsoil amd motul are much better at cleaning deposits that mobil 1 is by far

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SK has a good point. if you have owned the car since new, flushing every 3rd oil change isnt a bad thing, IF its been maintained good. but these things that clean out engines, be weary...piston rings and valve seals on older engines can.do become brittle if the engine is not maintained properly.

For $1850 thats totally unnaceptable, they should have replaced the door skin. They don't even have to replace the whole door, they can buy and weld in a new outer skin!

Like everybody said buffing won't help.

Just for fun though have em hit your hood with the buffer and see what happens ;)

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i believe the new skin from lexus is only $450 or so. and then the prep and paint would be around $200....i agree with SW03ES and i say you got taken for a ride, blake.

safety is the main concern.  hope you don't have a hard time with the insurance (even though it wasn't your fault) because they really give you a hard time. Good luck!  ;)

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any update on this? im almost certian the car is totalled, but just interested to see what the ins says. and dont EVER (well, under most circumstances) take the first check. make them give you 2 or 3 offers, sometimes you get more. also, get an attourney to represent you if the need arises. if you feel like you are getting reamed, just call a lawyer, personal accident and injury attourneys jump on cases like this...red light runner = automatically at fault. they see it as a case thats already won.

Hi All,

I have a problem with my A/C and Heater Fan Blower switch for my 1990 Lexus Es250.  Damn thing works in the 3rd and the 4th speed, but not in the 1st and 2nd speed.  So it's either no blower fan or High Speed Blower Fan.

Any Ideas?  I even replaced the switch... and the new switch does the same thing... so the problem is not in the switch... I think there is something else???

Help!

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heh, mine does the same thing, and i was gonna replace the switch, but since you said something, im no longer going to do that.

i think it blows a resistor in there somewhere. common problem in many cars. i would giess the dealer could doit for a hundred dollars or so...

Hey, after reading the topic about sludge problems, I was wondering about oil system flushes. I took the little pamphlet from my local shop and it said they use a "proprietory treatment solution" or something that flushes the used oil from the engine, and removes 99% of all used oil. I know if I asked the mechanic what they used he would give me the runaround saying it's a special blend of this and that yadda yadda. So I'm wondering if anybody here knows what's up with an oil system flush? Are they worth it? Do they work? Can they prevent sludge? And so on?

Thanks!

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Many of those 'engine flushing' products at more show than go.......the best way to prevent sludge is to perform all oil changes on time (and mileage) & use a high quality oil whether it be dino or synthetic. If your engine already has the sludge problem, it's toast (sooner or later) & no flushing product will be able to save it as the damage is already done. If purchasing a used ES (also applies to the RX, Camry, Highlander, Sienna etc) with the 3.0L V6 (1997 - 2001).......make sure you get ALL service & maintenance records before signing on the dotted line. If you can't get them, find another ES. Good Luck! B)

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expanding on what Lexusfreak said, but also disagreeing with a portion...

IF you can catch the sludge in its starting stages, a pressurized flush MIGHT save it. but thats a big might.

short answer is dont even bother. besides, if you really want to do it, youcan do it at home with oil flush from autozone

but alot of it has to do with the fact that i had JPI do the work...i got a killer deal.

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Then the price you paid hardly applies to what Shirley will run into, agreed!? JPI is a long drive for Shirley given she is in So. Cal. That is why I gave her the ballpark of $500 to $600 for both sides.

steviej

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yes but i had a mechanic local to me told me $400 for both sides...so i was just saying i thought thats a little high. however, due to the increased labor and more parts/sensors that could be damaged i guess $500-$600 is a fair guess, in SoCal it could be more, i didnt even think about the fact that she was there.

Just for fun though have em hit your hood with the buffer and see what happens ;)

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his hood isnt salvageable...trust me...not even rubbing compund will take that out

VERY well detailed description steviej!!!   :D

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Thanks Bren. It just raises my fur when someone tries to reword exactly what I said and then further adds possible confusion to the the whole shabang.

Replacing half shafts is one of my favorite DIY repairs to undertake. Done it many times on various makes and models. In every case, it was cheaper and easier to to go the way of replacing the entire half shaft.

Army:

Shirley's ES is probably equiped with ABS and traction control where your ES 250 is not (I'm guessing here). I allowed for a little extra time in removing the old half shafts without damaging the hub with traction control sensors and the ABS sensors. I also figured that the last thing Shirley would want to do is lug the dirty greasey HEAVY old half shafts from her mechanic to the autoparts store. I figured a little more because her mechanic will order the parts from the same place she is going to and yes charge her a little more, but she then won't be bothered with any of the details. Hence I figured at best: $250 per side = $500.

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yes i have ABS, but no on Trac control. :D

but alot of it has to do with the fact that i had JPI do the work...i got a killer deal.

naw man, i believe you,i was just giving ya beef :)

any update craig??

Glad to hear they were able to wash the car without destroying it lol.

I don't see any cracks in the drive belt either, Lexus replaces things like this as a matter of maintenance though. The engine mount and the dog bone are also probably legit as those are common ES problems. If you're talking with JPI I'm sure he can do it much cheaper than the dealership.

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you will not see any cracks on the drive belt from the back. the cracks are on the other side were the ribs are. you have to get in there with a flash light and check the face were it bends back across a pulley. a belt will look new from the back but could be ready to fail. also that cheep belt fails and it will leave you stranded. no water pump and no alternator does not let you get very far.

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the serpintine belt runs the water pump on te Gen II? i thought it was the Timing Belt??

Merry Christmas!!!  :)

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happy Chrismahanakwanzaka!!!!

She's in the 7.7/7.8 range to sixty!!  :D  ;)

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thats not what you said at the meet... <_< ;)

Shirley,

Let see if I can help.

your car has two half shafts.  They exit the transmission from the left and right side and go to the wheels.  The shafts have to flex and allow for the motion of the hub and wheel assembly.  Each shaft is actually three segments, the three pieces or segments connected to each other with two "U" joint type of knuckles.  The knuckle is actually metal against metal so it is packed with grease.  To keep the grease in there and not flying all over the inside of you engine bay and underside of your car, the knuckle is encapsulated in a rubber accordian like wrapping or "boot".  Each half shaft has two boots (inner and outer).  You follow me so far?

  

Once the rubber boot is pierced, torn, ripped, cut or damaged, the grease will spin out and you are left with metal grinding against metal.  The classic clicking sound is then commonly heard at this point.  The boots are rubber and exposed to weather, road debris, sand, dirt, rocks, sticks, animals (sorry had to through them in) and other damaging material.  Any one on that list can tear open or damage the boot.  Also, keep in mind that the longer the damaged boot is NOT replaced, the longer the knuckle has metal grinding against metal and that damage is irreversible.....then you have to replace the entire half shaft.

Here are the options.

1. have the damaged boot replaced.   Boot kits cost about $20 each.  The price will be the labor.  The shaft has to be removed, the old boot removed, the knuckle repacked with grease and the new boot secured.  This takes time so parts are cheap, labor is expensive.  You also may be rebooting damaged knuckles if the faulty boot had been greaseless for an extended period of time.

2.  have ONLY the shaft with the damaged boot replaced.  Entire half shafts can be obtained for less than $75 even for a Lexus.  They are remanufactured, but come with brand new boots prepacked with brand new grease.  Simple procedure.  Take the old shaft with the damaged boot off, put in the new half shaft and close it up.

The parts are a little more expensive the you make that up in the savings.  You also gain TWO new boots, two undamaged knuckles and a new shaft.

The dilemna comes in when you try to decide preventative maintenance for the future or try to calculate potential future costs.  If a boot was damaged simply due to age and natural deterioration of the rubber, then the other three boots ain't got much time before they go and will need replacing to. 

-You could go with option #1 each time a boot lets go.  Keep in mind this has the potential of happening 4 times because you have a total of four boots.

-You could go with option #2 and just replace the half shaft with the damaged boot.  At most this would have to happen twice.  It also replaces both boots on one side and leaves you with a new axle shaft.  The boots are factory made so there is also some quality assurance behind the rebooting. 

If the boot was damaged due to injury or insult from a foreign object then the other three may be in perfect or good condition and don't need to be replaced at this point in time.

From my experience it has always been wisest to change out the entire half shaft that had the damaged boot. 

Expect to pay about $250-300 to swap out the shaft on ONE side of your car.

Have the second mechanic you went to give you an estimate on doing the half shafts.  Ask for two estimates, one  estimate for just the damaged side and one estimate to replace both sides.  Tell him you were so delighted that he found your tranny shifting problem that you would like to do business with him from now on.  That's good for a couple a bucks off.

If you have any other questions, just ask.

steviej

PS.   Shirley.....have a Merry Christmas!!!!!

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stevie, unless the later model ES300's are more labor intensive, i dont think it will cost that much for the CV axles. parts and labor for me ran $438 for BOTH sides. that also included a tranny fluid drain and fill and a filter change on the tranny too.

Shirley, ebcause of the labor involved, it is usually better to change out the entire axle. your axle has 4 CV joints, one on each end of each axle. when one fo those joints goes, the others are usually soon to follow.

there is hope! you do not have to use LEXUS parts, if you are not in warranty.

for $129.00 a piece + $60.00 core exchange, O'Riellys auto parts (or autozone, i think their prices are within $2.00 of each other) will sell you 1 CV Driveshaft remanufacturered for your car. the way the core exchange works:

you go, pay the full $129 for each part. you take the parts (totalling $260 or thereabouts) to your mechanic and have them changed BUT TELL HIM YOU WANT TO KEEP THE OLD PARTS...ALL OF THEM!!!!

put the old parts in the boxes the new parts came in and take them to o'rielly's and give them the used parts. they will give you back $60.00 per axle=$120.

and dont worry about remanufacturered parts, thats all the mechainc woudl do anyway is remanufacturer your part and put it back in. he would pull it apart, change the CV unit inside the boot and put it back into the car.

new is not any better in this case, these "remanned" parts come with a lifetime warranty. and you wil pay over $300 per axle for the Lexus replacement, and you wont get any core refund/exchange.

You are correct about the Bondo, SK. I can't figure out why they put Bondo on my car-come to find out after speaking with the guy incharge of repairing my car. He's claiming that the paint shrunk, and it wasn't there when my LS left the shop. As yall can see, there was no severe damage to my car-the dent didn't even have a crease in it. What makes it even more weird is the 'sanding marks' are under the side mirror which had no damage at all. I thought Bondo was for low-buck, half &#33;Removed&#33; repairs?? Should I be alarmed by it's use which I don't even know why it was done in the first place??

It sounds like a repaint is the unamimous decision-it seems like both of you guys know a thing or two about body work. I thought this body shop was half decent. Everytime I go I see 4-5 Lexi being repaired-usually LS's and ES's.

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no, bondo is not a half assed fix, it is the only way to repair certian things sometimes. but in this instance, its better jsut to replace the doors.

but if your rear quarter panel was damaged (say near the gas filler door) they would have to pull the dent, and then sand and bondo, getting lines back level and sand agan, keep doing it until its perfect. reason being, you do not have a removeable rear quarter panel, so unless the damage is so bad they cant repair it with bondo (doesnt happen often, the stuff really does work wonders!!) they usually use that. on the rear quarter panel, if it is bad, the damage can be cut out with a plasma torch and a maching area from a used panel can be cut and welded in its place. this is much more difficult than bondo.

however, every other panel on your car is replaceable. even the roof panel. so if i were you, i would push for a new door, since they proved they couldnt use bondo correctly the first time. since your rear quarters are fine, dont worry about it LOL.

and SK, i forgot, the black paints on lexus' dont have clearcoat. so any sanding that woudl be done would be fruitless, and actually, the imperfectiosn looked to me to be in the bondo as well, so a complete repaint of the panel is inevitable. it looks like the sandpaper they used on this repair was about a 200 grit, maybe less.

you could pop to get it repainted...it would look like a brand new car!!!

and the airbag (singular,there is only one in the gen I i think) didnt deply because it wasnt a frontal collision. the sensors are bhind the grille. if they arent impacted at a nearly head on angle, they will not deploy. though it looks liek you JUST missed it.

ok.. slap me if i am silly... but is this an LOC meet??

if not when will one be sorted?

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no it was a CL/LOC/IS300.net meet...but nobody from here except blake was intersted, and i did post it, in 2 places...

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=15708

thats one, the other was here int he general discussion forum, but it disappeared.

so consider yourself slapped..LOL. :D

Talk about a good guess on my part!! On monday, they're going to buff it, and if that fails, they will repaint.

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buffing it wont help, they will have to repaint, unless they wetsand and then buff, but even then you will always have to keep wax on it (and i do mean FREQUENTLY) because it will fade quickly. the only way to correctly fix it is to resand, strip with spirits/thinner and repaint.

BOT, that LS400 is only worth $5500 max, they wil total it, there is probably over $7,000 worth fo damage. industry standard (slightly variable in some areas) is $975 per inch of frame straightening...so... add that up. looks like about 3 inches, that right there is ~$3,000. plus the body repair, not to mention whatever suspension damage hs occured...

Just to give you an idea here's the damage my car took to merrit $1850 in damage.....

Pretty shocking. There is a 1x1 area that they did not sand correctly(I guess....I know nothing about body work). It looks like a bunch of of scratches, but they are black, so they blend in very well. There are also some swirl marks too; my paint may be falling apart, but there are no swirls! lol The most embaressing thing is I didn't even notice it until a State Farm Agent came to inspect the work done on my car and pointed it out to me. I think I was just so happy to be out of the PT Cruiser, I didn't really care a whole lot so long as I got my LS back! lol  Have you heard anything from the insurance co yet?

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blake, i have seenthis body work in person and thats EXACTLY what they did, the sandpaper they used was ENTIRELY too rough...

For whatever it's worth I just had several quotes (in western MA) for engine replacement in a '99 ES 300:

Toyota dealer: used engine $3,200 + labor $1710; new engine $5,119 + labor $2,375

Independent mechanic: used engine $2,500 + labor $900; new engine $5700 + labor $900.

Moral of the story: get an independent to look at it. Could save 50% + on labor....

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dude, $6,000 for a *BLEEP*ing engine replacement, thats ludacris, if you were near here, i would do it for a quarter that, and i would warranty my work.

AND...

your car is worth what...$4,000??

and SK,its no big deal :D you have corrected me (very politely for the most part) on alot of my mistakes, i thought i woul simply return the favor :)