rob321

Sorry for the delay BLee. This wasn't too difficult but it was time-consuming. It took me the better part of a day to complete the driver's seat since I hadn't done anything like this before. I would get a good exploded diagram of the seats. During disassembly you will need to pry off the old hogrings to remove the upholstery-- I used two pairs of extra-long needlenose pliers. Notice where the old attachments were when installing the new pieces. For the new replacement upholstery, I bought a roll of bailing wire thin enough to be able to snip sections to feed into the attachment sleeves. You will need hogring pliers to cinch the new seat covers. I used about 300 hogrings for the whole job-- front and back seats. The trickiest part was aligning the top of the front seatbacks where the headrests attach. Be careful cutting the holes for the headrest bars and the button for the headrest adjustment. Good luck. The end result is well worth the effort.

Here's a helpful link addressing the problem: http://www.clublexus...-with-pics.html I had the same problem in my '92 SC400 driver's seat. The plastic endcap holding the wormgear that moves the seat forward / back loosens and sometimes even falls out. Look for a round plastic piece on the floor if you remove your seat from the car. To get to the wormgear, refer to an exploded diagram of the seat to see which parts to remove to get in to it. The endcap is located behind the trim containing the seat controls.

The seat is secured to the floor with 4 bolts. If the seat motor works, move the seat all the way back. Using a screwdriver, wedge off the plastic covers over the front bolts and remove with 13mm (or 15mm ?) wrench or socket. Next move the seat all the way forward, remove the plastic covers and the same sized bolts from the rear. Finally disconnect the seat track wiring connector which is centered under the seat, and the seat can be removed from the car. I did this awhile back to replace the motors in the driver's seat and later to replace the leather upholstery on both seats-- lots of hog-rings!

I see some on eBay for as low as $100, but mostly costing around $150 and up. Also, one listing offers ECM repair for $149.

Hi, guys can somebody tell me if gs300 cluster needles will fit 92 sc400 thanks Here's a link to a company that could answer your question: http://www.lextech.org/osCommerce/ They look like experts on cluster lighting and needles for the SC's.

Sounds like a thermostat going bad or low coolant level. My 92 SC400 recently had a leak in the coolant reservoir-- the old plastic became cracked. I replaced the reservoir, then a week later the plastic top part of the radiator developed a leak. I replaced the radiator with an all metal one (not sure why sections of the original were made of plastic) and have had no more coolant loss. I'd have a mechanic do a pressure test on your coolant system to make sure it is leak tight. The above posts might help if you are still having heater issues.

I believe this is the same thing and is certainly easy to check. Disconnect the shorter vacuum hose from the top of the round vacuum valve (yours in the picture has the asterisk * printed on it) and you may leave this unattached. Remove the other longer vacuum hose (yours printed with the O #) from the connection below the electrical switch and attach this hose to the top of the round valve. When your car is running this will pull vacuum on the valve and, if the round valve is functioning properly, will open coolant circulation into your heater core. There are some good pictures posted in the following link: http://www.clublexus...trol-valve.html .

Correction: Forget reversing the electrical connection. To test the Water valve VSV, swap the vacuum lines in the module: run the tube going into the top of the round vacuum valve to the electrical swich and vice versa. This should allow constant vacuum on the valve while the car is running and keep the water constantly circulating into the heater core. This would indicate the valve is functioning but the electrical switch in the module is not. It's been a few years since I did this and I just remembered how I tested it.

I'd check the water vacuum solenoid valve, which allows coolant to circulate into the heater core. The module is near the firewall in the engine compartment. To test it I reversed the electrical connection in mine and it stayed open all the time. I obtained a replacement Water valve VSV from a salvage yard and it's been working since.