j_lee84sc

oops sorry zeppelin2k dono where I got the idea this was a 300...and ouch, good luck my friend

ther starter has 2 bolts i believe and they are a bit of a pain to get too... but the job can be done from underneath the car....it will involve much complaining and cursing. Go to NAPA auto parts to pick up a starter...you can get one for around $100. Def a do it yourself job. good luck

One day i was apparently wasted and threw away my radiator fan shroud....come to find out this caused the colapse of my ac compressor....so i went out and bought 2 10 inch electric fans from discount and added them to my radiator and that eliminates the clutch driven fan on your water pump. the wiring is very simple just hook the positive end to a 12volt source that is only on when the car is on. put a fuse in line if you want. the whole process took me about 1.5 hours. no modifying anything just put it on, hook it up and drive away. I put washers in front of the bolt that held the fan clutch on to even the space out. it runs cool, i can feel the air being sucked in from the front of my car!! well worth the $128

the owners manual tells you where all the fuses are located and the amperage

alright i got the info from my buddies at a local shop. i have that naki something system in my car and an after market stereo. the moron that had the car before me used the wires that went to the amp. so the "amplified" cd player was sending a signal throught the stock amp then to the speakers which explains my no low frequency no matter how low the bass is. So the options are this....re-install the stock cd player radio, custom wire the cd player to the speakers without the stock amp being used. or by a 4 channel amp and wire the speakers to that.... so there ya go hope this helps someone else down the road!! thanks for the advice SK

agreed... it sounds like the right motor is busted more than likely, and i believe that those stupid motors come at a stupidly high price. good luck

The F*@#$% that had my car before me was an idiot and must have put the cd player in by himself...not only did he not know what he was doing but he duck taped and electrical taped it all together... i took it all out to sodder it but now, i cant tell which freakin wire goes where... i have the mitchell repair cd with wire diagrams and all but nothing makes sense... it says the wires are one color, which doesnt match up to the real wires, then when i took a peek at the actual wire colors from the speaker they were a totally diff color!! i have no music and am loosing my mind....please someone tell me where i can find a link with some answer, or if anyone knows anything about the wiring please help me before i spend unneccesary $$$.

replaced my belt with a napa belt last summer and no problems, might want to check the tension on your tensioner, how many miles is on the car?

go to a discount auto parts and they will hook up the hand held computer and pull the code for you, and tell you what it is for free!!, and at that mileage i would say either o2 sensor or maybe your egr valve. good luck with that

there is a tube under the evaporator(located under and behind glove box) that drains the condensation out of the car, you can see the tube from under the vehicle passenger side. might be clogged. cabin air filter may need changing. there is a possibility that the motor that opens and closes the the vent to the outside of the car has stuck letting water and such in. try turning the ac on high with recycled air, then hit the button to change to fresh air. if there is no change with the amount of air comming out the motor may be out.

take it to Just Brakes. They do free brake inspections. does the noise happen all the time or only after you reverse then put it in drive?

you can squeeze a half of plastic milk jug down there to place underneath the filter, but yeah it will more than likely spill when you are changing the filter....keep that rag handy!!!!

anyone know how to change the bulb from the ugly yellow halogen to a nice white or red or blue without blowing hte led bulb?? the stock green backlights are terrible. anyhelp appreciated

hey i found the shift boot for you

boot

they have shift knobs there too, great site for parts and they have great install tutorials

try upgrading your ground wires, there is a kit from lextasy.com

Ground Wires

I found your body kit on ebay... i want this one too its the best looking one for the car and very inexpensive.

Hyper Body Kit

dont know what rims those are i am bad with that. bottom one looks stock and not lowered at all. good luck with the mods.

i got all those pieces plus the ebrake boot for a little over $200 from Lexus of Tampa Bay. the shift knob was the most expensive it was $140, bezel for $40, boot for $12 and the ebrake boot was $55. Dont worry they laughed at me when I asked for those parts, they didnt believe I had a 5spd they made me get my VIN to get the part numbers.

OK a back light to my ac control unit has gone out so i took it upon myself to replace them along with all the lights on my doors and the hazard light and ac and volume control lights. HOWEVER, i replaced them all with white LED's and they all blew....they can only take 2.5 volts instead of buying a resistor for every stinkin light, is there any other white lights that small i can use, anyone have any helpful hints? i will post hte pics and all when this project is complete.

So I have started piecing together my turbo kit for my SC, my question is this. Besides the $800 boost logic pipe kit, is there any other piping available, 800 is outragious, 300 maybe. if anyone knows of some fmic kit or just piping that would help out a lot. Or a shop recomendation, I live in Tampa Fl. Thanks for the help

I thought you couldnt buy r12 anymore? i thought its only legal to have 134a. you can do your own retrofit kit, get one from discount auto parts for like 10 dollars. its just two stupid fittings that go over the old high and low pressure ports.

did you try the removing hte wheel mud flap?? not sure about the 430 but just giving suggestions

It may be 10 years old but if you want the steering to last longer than 6 months do it right. Pump replacment is fairly simple, as quoted before. NAPA has quality parts and they have a warantee.... try to stay away from an ebay piece. might be cheaper but def not safer. And the rack... how is the steering does it stick when you turn? if the rack is not leaking i say replace all the lines and the pump. Good luck my friend...give her time she is a good car ps that quote the dealer gave you to fix hte pump and lines only...thats crazy

they have a pretty neat leather repair kit at most NAPA stores...the NAPA warehouse in your are should def have it. also try www.leatherseats.com.... i am going to get some myself eventually.. they sell for about $675

apxi sells a similar unit to the vpc since it was discontinued, and i found out that the air restrictions from the maf is limiting the user to about 350 hp or so, from a local supra shop owner. so i guess my friend was right....that *BLEEP*. On chrome.....that pic of your car, if so very sharp.

I had the headlights on, the climate control unit on, driver's side heat seater on, the radio on and thats about it.

Thats about it! im not an expert but, if they just dimmed when you pushed on the turn signal i wouldnt worry so much. My headlights go dim when i hit the sunroof button or PW buttons, i think nothing of it. I did think it to possibly be my alternator so i took it to Discount Auto Parts and they checked the alternator diodes for free. try that, they might tell you to upgrade to an optima batt also... i mean that is a lot of heavy current running at once. hope this helps