Power Steering Flush Question/advice

[smithm92]

I removed and cleaned the rack solenoid filter only to realize that I should have flushed the system fluid first (learn from my mistake ). Another gotcha for those that try this is to remove the two-wire mating connector from the rack bracket by squeezing the back of the connector flare that mounts into the bracket. Once this is removed disconnect the mating connectors by lifting a latching tounge and a side flare between the two. Now you can unscrew the solenoid without stressing or breaking the wires.

Anyway, so I went to flush the system fluid by removing the return hose and hit a ridiculous wall. I can't remove the return hose from the resevoir body. I pinched and moved the collar spring back a good inch, but the limited space combined the return hose wrap doesn't allow room for a good tug. What is the secret to removing it?

[smithm92]

Just had an epipany and realized that I could cut off the first inch or so of the hose if necessary. Sometimes it just takes time to realize the obvious. <_<

[99lsguy]

Just had an epipany and realized that I could cut off the first inch or so of the hose if necessary. Sometimes it just takes time to realize the obvious. <_<

s92,

Getting that return hose off was also the hardest part of the job for me!!!

I just kept working @ it and scraping my knuckles.......eventually it came off

Install was much easier. I'll do another flush soon (2K miles later) and then take a look at that solenoid filter.....thanks for the heads-up!!

btw, how was the screen? performance better now?

[99lsguy]

You could also try some pliers and gently "twist" the hose a little as its snug against the reservoir tube. It's just tough to "break loose" the first time. I'm certain this was a first for my 99 LS, so that's a 5 yr old car . It can only be "frozen" more on older cars........

or run a small, flat screwdriver down the edges a little to help break loose..

be patient, you'll get it!

worse case, if you really tear it up, you can get a replacement. It's about 1/2" od and 3/8" id hose.

[smithm92]

Thanks for the pointers. I was able to use a set of pliers to rotate the hose, just couldn't get any rear motion. I needed a break from the morning solenoid removal and didn't have the fresh patience to keep at it. I'll try it again this weekend.

When I did remove the filter I found it pretty clogged. I felt lighter steering immediately after I had the clean solenoid reinstalled and (some) new fluid poured in. But I cringed since, knowing the dirty condition of the existing fluid, the filter will shortly clog again. Ah, well, the solenoid removal/cleaning will certainly go faster the second time.

My PS pump had been replaced about 35K ago (car has 130K) but the rack was not replaced and I suspect the solenoid filter was not cleaned. The fluid in the system is dark/dirty. The pump has been making a slight groan once after starting. After reading the posts here and looking at the state of the fluid, I thought it was likely the filter. I hope after flushing the system and cleaning that filter one more time, I'll have both lighter steering and no noise.

[mbpgawest]

I have a question, What is the proper way to flush the p/s system? I have a '97 w/78,000 miles and I'm sure that it has never been flushed. I understand that after flushing I should clean the screen at the solenoid, just want to know the proper way to flush. Is it recommended to use OEM fluid after flush?

Thank you for your help! :D

[smithm92]

mbp,

From what I gathered, the procedure is (at least for Gen I LS):

1. Disconnect the return line coming back to PS fluid resevoir.

2. Disconnect the hose plug resevoir in line.

3. Connect the return line hose via clear tubing to an external container/jug.

4. Open the ps fluid resevoir and be ready to add new fluid when someone starts the motor for you.

5. Start the motor. This will turn the pump and begin expelling old fluid through the return hose out to your container/jug. At this same time you'll need to add ps fluid to keep the level mostly constant.

6. Add fluid/run the motor until the expelled fluid runs clean.

7. Stop the motor. Reconnect the return hose to the resevoir in line.

8. Run motor and make sure PS fluid is at the right level in the resevoir.

Then, with wheels lifted off the ground, run the steering wheel back and forth a couple of time to bleed air out of the lines.

[99lsguy]

Here's a great photo post by K9Crew!

It's what got me started on the project!!

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...+steering+flush

I did it myself, but tried not to start the car - just bump the starter like k9! I did accedentally start it twice, but immediately turned it off. It will drain the PS fluid really quick if the engine is started so be careful.

I also suggest putting both wheels just off the ground and do lot's of cycling back/forth with the steeerin wheel. If you look thru the hood, you'll see the PS fluid being pumped over and out. You have to do this anyway to "bleed" air out - so I think its best to start this way because the wheel is "tuff" to turn!!!!

I didn't disconnect the Air filter/ MAF assembly or anything.......just worked my fingers in those tight spots. I ran the clear tubing just over the fender and to gallon jug on the garage floor. MAKE SURE YOU TAPE the tubing securely to the jug.....it did come loose on me (and I had a little mess to clean up )

Drain the reservoir as thourough as possible first. you will still get drainage once the return hose is off so keep a little paper cup handy. Then replug.

The ideal setup would include some sort of container that will hold 2+ quarts of Dex III fluid that can "mate" tightly w/ the reservoir. Like a clear, modified container with an open top or something.....Then, you could start the engine, watch the fluid drain down, and turn off as it dissappeared -- THIS WOULD BE AWESOME!!!. Someone did wrap elec. tape around the funnel and "jammed" it into the reservoir opening - it didn't leak! so this is a possibility. I'd go this route if I could get a second helper to hold it tight - actually, I'd trust myself to do this part with a quart of DexIII in hand while someone else started the car - then I could yell "STOP!!" when my fluid was about gone.. As you can see, I'm pretty anal about all the potential complexities of this (and any) procedure!!!

I used Valvoline long life Dex III ( 1.5 quarts or so) . It has additives to help condition seals & gaskets...supposedly ;)

Mobil one ATF is good too. Original Toyota fluid looks like motor oil anyway.....so it will take a while to get it out.

Just make sure to use a Dex III fluid (syn or dino). Do not use stuff labelled PS fluid........

Next time I flush, I'll use 3- 4 quarts to really flush it out! Knowing me, I'll clean the screen next (since I've done a flush), flush again, and then clean the screen again. I think it takes time to clean these puppies out !!

99

[99lsguy]

s92.,

just wondering if you've had success flushing the PS yet - mainly getting the return hose off. It is hard, I had to pull down and twist hard to get it off - the tube is easily 2" long ; and you know that hose has never been off so its stuck pretty tight!!!

Also, after you got the wires off on the solenoid, did you "tap" the edge of the nut with a chisel? I ask because I've read that before and it surprises me - to say the least! Is it a rounded bolt or something? Anyway, just wanted to know ................

Any washer/gaskets to replace?

And to tighten.......just finger tight and then 1/4 turn or so (or more?)

Thanks!

99

[smithm92]

ls99guy,

Well, I had at the ps fluid again this weekend. I did finally manage to get the return hose off, just like you said, I kept at it and managed to push it off. The hose into the milk jug got a little squirely :whistles: . Steering feels better. I still have a little groan very first thing in the morning backing out of the driveway but nothing thereafter. So, I'll try in a couple of weeks going back underneath and cleaning the solenoid filter one more time to remove any clogging remaining with the prior dark fluid.

The word "chisel" sounds scary. In this case one doesn't have to break anything. It just so happens that the solenoid filter tube is collared by what looks to be a 1" or so thin hex side nut. I'm sure whan the rack assembly is on the bench a deep socket could easily take it off, but it's when the rack is installed that just makes it unlikely to get any tool on the thin hex side nut. First, make a note the original hex side positions since you can use this as a gauge when you reinstall and tighten. Next, I used a 1/8" nail punch and hit one of the hex nut sides until the unit loosened. Thereafter it was easily to unscrew the filter by hand. Be ready to catch a little less than a pint of ATF as it comes off. After rethreading by hand to finger-tight, I used the same nail punch to tap it firmly in place to about the original position.

[ebridges]

FYI, the dealer changed my PS Pump @ 99,000 on my 96 LS while doing the timing belt. After reading these posts, I too, decided to clean the solonoid. It had already been "chiseled", by the dealer. No one else had ever touched this car. Bought it new. So, the procedure is done by at least one dealer :-).

[amboy19]

any one of you guys that have done the solenoid valve screen cleaning have any pictures to share for the procedure? a picture does say a thousand words!

[99lsguy]

ls99guy,

Well, I had at the ps fluid again this weekend. I did finally manage to get the return hose off, just like you said, I kept at it and managed to push it off. The hose into the milk jug got a little squirely :whistles: . Steering feels better. I still have a little groan very first thing in the morning backing out of the driveway but nothing thereafter. So, I'll try in a couple of weeks going back underneath and cleaning the solenoid filter one more time to remove any clogging remaining with the prior dark fluid.

The word "chisel" sounds scary. In this case one doesn't have to break anything. It just so happens that the solenoid filter tube is collared by what looks to be a 1" or so thin hex side nut. I'm sure whan the rack assembly is on the bench a deep socket could easily take it off, but it's when the rack is installed that just makes it unlikely to get any tool on the thin hex side nut. First, make a note the original hex side positions since you can use this as a gauge when you reinstall and tighten. Next, I used a 1/8" nail punch and hit one of the hex nut sides until the unit loosened. Thereafter it was easily to unscrew the filter by hand. Be ready to catch a little less than a pint of ATF as it comes off. After rethreading by hand to finger-tight, I used the same nail punch to tap it firmly in place to about the original position.

s92,

Thanks for a great description - I've gained the confidence to take this puppy on!!

Perfect idea to mark the nut position with a sharpie or similar........just like markings for camber / toe adjustments when working on Suspension/axle parts!!

I'll do this the end of the month (2 weeks) and let you know my story - I hope it's a good one ;)

The nail punch is certainly adequate for me too........If I can obtain a "thin bladed" pair of "channel lock pliers" - I'll try them first; otherwise opt for the punch.

If you want to jack up both sides of your car again - I imagine a few turns lock to lock of the wheel (with cap loosely over reservoir!!!) with engine off and then again with engine on idle...........this can only help remove those final air pockets in the system....(I know, the hassle of doing it again)

Again - thanks for the help!!

ebridges - how was your solenoid screen?

amboy19 - I will take a series of photos for this procedure and post.

99

[new big400]

What is this solenoid filter and does My 98 GS4 have one? I just flushed my ps and would hate to have missed something.