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Air intake seal


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Hello members. Our 1999 LS 400 was making a loud sucking noise on the first four gears, but quieter in fifth. I replaced the round intake air filter, cleaned the housing, same noise. I removed "air intake inlet muffler resonator" aka....Snorkel leading to the intake manifold and discovered the last mechanic had forced it on and the rubber seal under the hose clamp had been distorted and folded toward the radiator, restricting air flow and not sealed properly. There is a notch at the top of the seal which was torn, so contacted our local Lexus parts department, only to learn the seal is serviced as part of the snorkel and sadly, all of it no longer manufactured. I had to turn the seal 180 degrees and cut a new notch on that side, cleaned all surfaces, used a rubber cement to hold the altered seal in place, sprayed silicone on the receiving tube and with a lot of struggling, got it back on. I think my idea has failed, as the motor is roaring again. There is not enough room under the manifold inlet for the snorkel to be easily slid on. Can anyone help me with a better or different seal and how to slide the snorkel on more easily? I might consider a complete snorkel new or used PN 17875-50160. 

1997-2000 Lexus LS400 6 Cyl 4.0L 1UZFE; 1UZFE; UCF20L-AEAGKA,

This is not like Lexus; the seal should be sold separately and if they can't make anymore, the least they could do is offer the design specs to an aftermarket company. Thanks, Wayne

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Intake LS 400.jpg

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The image in your post of the assembly has extra hose barbs on the duct that isn't there on '98-'00 LS400's.

Time sensitive:  There's a used one for sale on ebay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144409772307?epid=18024415676&hash=item219f7e4113:g:~LgAAOSwHZNiBy5y

It even has the repaired hose barb too.

 

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Did the dealership check stock in the US? Just because it is no longer made does not necessarily mean that there are none in stock at any dealership. Another option may be to find a rubber hose that you can cut to size and modify as necessary.
If you can measure what you have I can try to find hose that might work.

 

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Being stuck for new parts, I would take a chance on the repaired nipple.  I had to repair a hose nipple on mine:

image.thumb.jpeg.5194caf4ab21b848ae5013591ca6456f.jpeg

1.  Thread hole (gently!) with a 1/8" NPT - no drilling required.

image.thumb.jpeg.bdce903aaa56a0c5b73657e676381dae.jpeg

2.  Hose barb.  Procured from McMaster-Carr. Depending on which hose barb is broken, you can probably fine a barb that will fit the hose and the resonator box hole.

Looking for a new assembly...

Here's the search engine that Lexus of Pleasanton used when looking for some heater hoses for me late last year:

https://www.partsvoice.com/

Here's another parts search engine that's not as "robust" but it works:

https://www.rearcounter.com/

Edit / Correction:  I used this hose barb. Earl's P/N 781662ERL (3/8" barb x 1/8" NPT).  The rolled barb makes it easier to remove the PCV intake hose for maintenance.

image.thumb.jpeg.ee622b84fe4bfcfd9c6020b8fa99449a.jpeg

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Paul, I am curious as to if you sealed the hose fitting. While Teflon tape or liquid pipe thread sealant is typically used when tapered threaded holes are formed, RTV would work for low pressure (vacuum or positive) applications. McMaster also has straight thread hose fittings that contain a gasket or o-ring seal.
 

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1 hour ago, RX400h said:

Paul, I am curious as to if you sealed the hose fitting. While Teflon tape or liquid pipe thread sealant is typically used when tapered threaded holes are formed, RTV would work for low pressure (vacuum or positive) applications. McMaster also has straight thread hose fittings that contain a gasket or o-ring seal.
 

No sealer/sealant was used.  I didn't use a gasketed/sealed fitting because there's no flat surface on the resonator box to affect a seal.

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The part I am talking about is the rubber round seal shown under the metal hose clamp. On the right image, the seal is at the very top left, next to the 90 degree ell. The rubber seal has a notch cut into the top outer flange; this is to match it to a metal alignment pin at the top of the manifold round inlet. What I want to know, is why Lexus/Toyota only sold the seal as part of the entire unit shown on the right? Looking at the two images to the right, you will see how image #1 fits the manifold opening. 1643048723_IntakeLS400.jpg.adfc4d5b9ffc385c3f063879fc386f1d.jpg It appears to have not been bonded with heat or a cement; just slid over the plastic end and tightened to the manifold with the metal screw clamp. All I really need is the RUBBER SEAL. Being a boat mechanic for many decades, we used to fabricate things like this all the time, but I have sold that business and don't have access to rubber seals like I used to. However, the word "seal" makes me wonder if I might use a seal from an axle to hub arrangement? I'm off to search.....Chime in if you have a better idea. 

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Manifold opening.jpg

Manifold image.jpg

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That makes sense. You could use an RTV sealant on the outside. Silicone has a very wide operating temperature range.

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