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Mixing Purge Hose With Water Bypass Hose


lsrxlex

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Hi all,

I made a big mistake: after replacing valve cover gaskets, while reinstalling, I mixed the Purge hose with one of the Water bypass hoses (the one that goes from the throttle body to the upper pipe on engine).

My son test drove, it's OK for about 5 miles, then the engin stopped. I came and put about half gallon of coolant in the radiator (since there was no more coolant in the recovery tank and radiator top, although engine temperature was one graduation below the normal). And when he started the engine (he could this time), all the coolant was gone in less than 2 minutes, but no coolant dripping down on the ground. Since we ran out of coolant, we had to stop the engine so we could go buy more coolant. The car was towed back home.

The following day, we started the engine, and we got a check engine light after 2 minutes. It's " Lean mixture, and cylinders 3 and 5 misfired". We replaced the Ignition coil #5 to see if the Code changed . We tried to start the engine, but from now on, engine cranking but no starting.

Then I found the mistake and reinstalled the hoses back correctly. Then I removed 3 front spark plugs, cleaned water with a rag, and used vacuum cleaner with a small plastic tube to suck some water out from top of 3 cylinders (lots of water out of cylinder #2). But we couldn't start the engine (Battery gave good cranking though). At that point we're tired and stopped working for now.

Do we have to replace all spark plugs, with only 2000 miles on ? What should we do next. Do we need to remove the 3 cylinders in the back to suck water out as well? What hoses do we have to use vacuum cleaner to suck more water out?

Please help.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So far, I vacuumed out coolant from: purge hose (it runs from engine bay to charcoal canister) and the pipe connected to it, 2 small vacuum hoses on top of engine, bundled together), hoses on both sides of VSV for EVAP , cylinder chambers ( after removing 6 spark plugs, using ~1/3" plastic tube connected to a shop vacuum cleaner). I got about a cup of coolant. Where is the rest of coolant went (about half gallon)?

But after cranking engine for about 1 minute without spark plugs, I put everything back trying to start engine, but no result.

Then I took out front spark plugs and found coolant again.

I tried to remove coolant in vacuum line and engine, but apparently I didn't do it right.

Please help. Thanks.

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I think I should vacuum out all coolant in the vacuum system first before cranking engine to chase coolant out (after removing all spark plugs). But what vacuum hose should I start?

Do I have to take out Air Intake Chamber Assembly or Intake manifold just to vacuum out coolant? Do spark plugs need to be replaced, after just 10,000 miles, top?

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I wouldnt think the spark plugs need replacing...however the Oil should probably be dumped and crank the engine over without plugs in to try to get the coolent out. The intake manifold may be contaminated also. I would then squirt a small amount of oil in each cylinder to lube the piston walls. put the plugs back, and crank the engine to finish removing the coolant. The charcoal canister could also be contaminated. Take it slow, and dont forget to put fresh engine oil in the car as well as a new oil filter.

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I removed all spark plugs and cranked the engine, but not much of coolant came out in cylinders. And the engine cranked without effort.

I think that by removing spark plugs, the pistons lost vacuum power to suck all coolant out.

Is there a way to quickly plug the spark plug holes for vacuum power, since 3 rear plugs are difficult to access and take time to remove or install. Then crank the engine again, then repeat? Using disconnected coil packs would help?

Even if I take out the plenum (again), can I just use plastic hoses to suck out coolant, without removing intake manifold, or worse, cylinder heads ?

(I gorgot to mention that, the last time the engine could ever run ( for about 1-2 minutes then stopped ) I got obd codes for: cylinder #3 and #5 misfired, and Fuel system too lean. Then after that, I rehooked hoses correctly, and engine never started.)

Maybe I should try to connect a shop vacuum cleaner to all 6 spark plug holes and crank the engine. Would that help?

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I removed all plugs and inserted 6 plastic hoses in plug holes. Then I connected 6 hoses to a shop vac, and cranked the engine for a total of more than 1 minute. But there was no trace of coolant in cylinders.

Then i vacuumed the vacuum hose that runs from VSV for EVAP to Charcoal canister, but still no trace of coolant.

So, I connected just 1 ignition coil to 1 coil connector and 1 spark plug, and had a helper cranked the engine (after pulling out the EFI fuse ). But there was no sparks at the grounded plug. Then I used volt meter and got 13v at one of the holes on the coil connector. So why there's no sparks? Even when using brand new plug?

So the problem is now electrical?

Then I checked the Bank2 camshaft position sensor, it's fine (between 835- 1400 ohms when cold).

At this point, I had to stop because it's too dark.

When I have a next day off, do have have to check the Bank1 camshaft pos. sensor, and Crankshaft pos. sensor too?

(I think Fuel pressure was OK since I could smell fuel in the air earlier. That's why I had to pull the EFI fuse when testing the plug after that),

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  • 3 months later...

Back from the dead thread. Whatever happened with the engine?

I think this is a mechanical problem and not electrical. New engine or a rebuild is required to fix the problem. Coolant is not compressible and the engine hydro-lock when much coolant entered the combustion chamber. The result could be bent valves or connecting rod. That is the reason ECU throwing misfire DTCS, if check engine compression on #1, 3 and 5 cylinders there would not be much PSI at all.

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