Timing Belt, Water Pump Replaced...now Leaking Oil From Bottom Of Ocer

[mnesbit]

thanks landar.. I need a little clarification

After i jolt the crank bolt loose using the starter both the crank and cams will no longer be at tdc.

how do i get the cams and crank back to tdc after the crank pulley is removed...are there marks on the crank sprocket and engine casing showing where tdc is which i can use to line the crank up with the cams?

with regards to putting in new cam shaft seals how do i bump the cam pulley bolts loose (which are at 80 lbs.) without having the cam shafts move? i know there are cam shaft holding tools??? any thoughts???

thanks, mike

[landar]

thanks landar.. I need a little clarification

After i jolt the crank bolt loose using the starter both the crank and cams will no longer be at tdc.

thanks, mike

Actually, before you remove the crank pulley you need to rotate the crank to TDC. Unloosening the crank bolt will not misalign the crank and cams. They will still rotate in synch with one another. At that point, you are simply breaking the bolt loose. Once it is loose, you can still turn the crankshaft clockwise without significantly retightening the bolt. You can put the crank at TDC and everything will be aligned and the crank bolt can be easily unscrewed without moving the crank very much. Remember, there is a key in the crankshaft which keeps the pulley in position. As far as the cam bolts being loosened, you could go ahead and loosen those as well before removing the timing belt. As long as the belt is in place (and still under tension) everything will stay in sync.

I actually unintentionally loosened my cam bolt while trying to move the cam back CCW while putting on the new belt.

So, once you get the crank bolt loosened and the cam bolts loosened(not removed, just loosened), you rotate the crank to TDC by hand, check that your cams are aligned and then remove the crank bolt and pulley. You will need to 'rent' or buy a crank puller from an auto store.

Does that explanation help?

[mnesbit]

thanks landar...makes good sense.

[mnesbit]

one more question...re: cracking the cam shaft pulleys.

the cam shaft pulleys are torqued at 80 lbs. what is the best way to stop the cam pulleys from moving during the loosening process...can i put a breakerbar/socket on the crank shaft nut to stop the cam shafts from moving on me or do i need a cam shaft holder?

thanks, mike

[landar]

You should be able to hold the cams (via the belt) in place by simply holding the crank from moving. But loosen the cam bolts before the crank bolt. If you have an impact wrench, that will zip the cam bolts loose very nicely w/o moving them. I have never taken them off but would imagine the cam pulleys are keyed like the crank pulley.

I should point out that rotating the crank to TDC may not automatically align the cam sprockets onto their marks. The crank rotates 2x for every cam revolution so you may have to move the crank another whole turn to TDC to get everything aligned. Not hard. Just want you to be aware of that. Look at my photos to see the alignment marks. You will do fine.

[mnesbit]

i made some progress and cracked the crank shaft nut tonight.

i have tdc for the crank at 0 degrees and the passenger side cam mark is at 1400 and driver side cam mark is at 1000. i am showing my ineptitude but here goes...i marked the timing belt at the tdc cam marks. when i rotate the tb i can't seem to get the marks on the tb to line up with marks on the cams. what am i missing? shouldnt the marks on the tb line up with the cam marks? thanks

[mnesbit]

i made some progress and cracked the crank shaft nut tonight.

i have tdc for the crank at 0 degrees and the passenger side cam mark is at 1400 and driver side cam mark is at 1000. i am showing my ineptitude but here goes...i marked the timing belt at the tdc cam marks. when i rotate the tb i can't seem to get the marks on the tb to line up with marks on the cams. what am i missing? shouldnt the marks on the tb line up with the cam marks? thanks

comments?? i can easily get the marks on the crank and cams lined up at tdc. i marked the belt at tdc for the cams. when i rotate the crank i can get tdc for the crank and cams again but not for the tb. the marks i made on the tb do not line up.. what do i not understand? thanks, mike

[curiousB]

The marks on the pulleys (not the belt) will sync up every second crankshaft revolution.

[billydpowell]

mnesbit?????? what is all this talk, rotating the crank, rotating the cams?? I HOPE you have not ruined your engine..... you did not need to rotate ANYTHING. the crank should stay in position and the cams will move only 1/4 turn... IF you lined up the marks before removing the belt, all you needed to do was put the new one on and everything should be lined up.. dont you remember looking at my photos??

[landar]

Mike, you are over thinking this a bit. Marks on the belt will NOT line up once you rotate it. I do not know how many rotations it will take before the belt marks would re-align but it is way more than two. The marks on a new belt are only for the purpose of assisting with belt alignment the FIRST time. After rotation, they are of no concern. It is the alignment marks on the crank and cams that really matter. If those "dots" line up, you are golden.

[mnesbit]

i have replaced the crank seal which was very loose and leaking. new tb is on. marks all line up. i will hopefully have it running tomorrow.

when i had the timing belt off the left cam rotated by itself (caused by its springs) to the left and it sounded like it hit the pistons....so i hope there is no damage from that.

other than that the removal of the crank seal took some time and the tb was tight to put on.

any thoughts on the best way to toorque the crank bolt to 181 pounds?

thanks everybody for your help..

[curiousB]

The trick to tightening is holding the crank from turning. I bought a tool for this http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1/page_11038/schley_64300_toyota__lexus_crank_pulley_holder.html

Other than that a bar and some elbow grease. My torque wrench didn't go that high so I went to 150ftpd with it then used a 30" breaker bar to torque it a little further.

I have heard of people jamming the flywheel with a large allen key to stop crank from turning instead of a holding tool.

[mnesbit]

i have replaced the crank seal which was very loose and leaking. new tb is on. marks all line up. i will hopefully have it running tomorrow.

when i had the timing belt off the left cam rotated by itself (caused by its springs) to the left and it sounded like it hit the pistons....so i hope there is no damage from that.

other than that the removal of the crank seal took some time and the tb was tight to put on.

any thoughts on the best way to toorque the crank bolt to 181 pounds?

thanks everybody for your help..

Should i expect any issues due to the left cam shaft (drivers side) flopping over and maybe touching the pistons??? This was caused by the cam springs after i took the belt off.

[landar]

Should i expect any issues due to the left cam shaft (drivers side) flopping over and maybe touching the pistons??? This was caused by the cam springs after i took the belt off.

Well, there is not much you can do about it now. You are probably ok. However, NOW you know why it is recommened to move the crank to 50 degrees after TDC. That gives the extra assurance of clearance when the cam snap-rolls. My cam also snapped but I had the crank @ 50 degrees ATDC.

[mnesbit]

i was aware of the 50 degrees move but the general concensus in this forum was that it did not have to be done for pre-98 engines.

[mnesbit]

car is all fixed...tb is replaced and crank shaft seal is replaced.

getting the seal out took a long time and it was difficult tapping the new one in. i tapped on the old seal against the new one.

there was no issue with the cam shaft snapping over...according to my mechanic (who torqued the crank bolt to 181) it happens all the time and he has never had smashed valves, etc..

i want to think everybody for their help,,,,in particular landar and billy....thanks

[landar]

You are welcome. And glad to hear that your engine is back together and doing fine.

So, just curious, what method did your mechanic use to hold the crankshaft when tightening the crank bolt?

[mnesbit]

lots of air...

[billydpowell]

You are welcome. And glad to hear that your engine is back together and doing fine.

So, just curious, what method did your mechanic use to hold the crankshaft when tightening the crank bolt?

AMEN to landar's quote..

[Larry W]

I just did my timing belt, water pump, seal & gaskets and everything else this site recommended and checked the engine for oil leaks after a run in of about 20 minutes. No leaks. However after driving a few miles and stopping I noticed an oil smell. Oil was leaking back on to the exhaust system. After checking everything (again) it turned out to be a loose oil drain plug. Something that simple. Its been about 400 miles since the repair and no leaks. Cooling temp gauge is about 1/4 to 1/2 on the gauge even with our 92 degree weather here in South Florida. Great to be driving her again.

[mnesbit]

it feels good to do one of these repairs. my tb repair is great also. i still have a small oil leak which is coming from the back of the engine. i havent checked to see where. i hope it is not one of the seals where you have to drop the tranny to fix.

if i have to drop the tranny how much time should that take by an experienced shop?