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1995 Ls400 Starter


rpollard

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My LS400 has been struggling to start. It takes a few turns of the key to engage the starter. It stopped working a couple of days ago, so I took the battery in and had it tested. It was bad, so I bought a new one. It tried to start once, but is now just clicking. Please tell me I don't have to replace the starter!!!

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Common problem. You don't have to replace the starter, only replace the solenoid contacts which burn and develop resistance. That part is cheap - $30.00 or so. The trick is getting to the starter, which involves removing the intake manifold.

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What's the weather like where you are? Unusually cold? I went through a similar situation when the weather turned cold. I had also been letting the car sit for too long. I got what I thought was a single click a few times (would not start) and later, a series of rapid clicks (meaning it was the battery). So I had mixed signals -- starter and battery. After I recharged the battery and the weather warmed up, the starter has worked fine ever since. That was 2.5 months ago, approximately..

If you do have to replace the starter, it pays to shop around. I got a wide range of quotes when I thought I was going to have to replace the starter...the best one being $275 for everything..rebuilding the existing starter and the labor. Sounds too good to be true, but I am pretty sure it was a legitimate shop/price. Again, shop around if you have to do this.

My LS400 has been struggling to start. It takes a few turns of the key to engage the starter. It stopped working a couple of days ago, so I took the battery in and had it tested. It was bad, so I bought a new one. It tried to start once, but is now just clicking. Please tell me I don't have to replace the starter!!!

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Rapid clicking noise/sound is the result of getting 12 volts to the starter solenoid prior to starter commutation engagement and then voltage drops due to the additional, HEAVY, starter current load. Most commonly caused by a weak battery, but otherwise by a "high" resistance (~>100 millohms) connection between the positive or negative side of the battery and the starter + or - sides.

A 12 volt battery with a "dead" cell can still be "fully" charged, 12.5 volts, but the terminal voltage will drop the instant a more serious load level, >100A, is applied.

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Rapid clicking noise/sound is the result of getting 12 volts to the starter solenoid prior to starter commutation engagement and then voltage drops due to the additional, HEAVY, starter current load. Most commonly caused by a weak battery, but otherwise by a "high" resistance (~>100 millohms) connection between the positive or negative side of the battery and the starter + or - sides.

A 12 volt battery with a "dead" cell can still be "fully" charged, 12.5 volts, but the terminal voltage will drop the instant a more serious load level, >100A, is applied.

he just put a new battery in it, it is now time for new solenoid contacts

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Rapid clicking noise/sound is the result of getting 12 volts to the starter solenoid prior to starter commutation engagement and then voltage drops due to the additional, HEAVY, starter current load. Most commonly caused by a weak battery, but otherwise by a "high" resistance (~>100 millohms) connection between the positive or negative side of the battery and the starter + or - sides.

A 12 volt battery with a "dead" cell can still be "fully" charged, 12.5 volts, but the terminal voltage will drop the instant a more serious load level, >100A, is applied.

he just put a new battery in it, it is now time for new solenoid contacts

No. The solenoid is initially, instantly engaging the starter motor and that additional HUGE current load is resulting in the 12 volt supply voltage dropping to below the voltage required to keep the solenoid engaged, the starter motor load is removed, the 12 volt supply "recovers" to the point that the solenoid engages again.....repeat the sequence...rapid click-click-click.

Had the battery not have already been changed the first thing I would recomment is a cleaning and burnishing of the battery posts and connections. On the other hand did whoever replaced the battery do that...?

Anew battery being defective is not unheard of.

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No. The solenoid is initially, instantly engaging the starter motor and that additional HUGE current load is resulting in the 12 volt supply voltage dropping to below the voltage required to keep the solenoid engaged, the starter motor load is removed, the 12 volt supply "recovers" to the point that the solenoid engages again.....repeat the sequence...rapid click-click-click.

Where did you take your automotive apprenticeship, at the Bermuda Triangle Vocational School?

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No. The solenoid is initially, instantly engaging the starter motor and that additional HUGE current load is resulting in the 12 volt supply voltage dropping to below the voltage required to keep the solenoid engaged, the starter motor load is removed, the 12 volt supply "recovers" to the point that the solenoid engages again.....repeat the sequence...rapid click-click-click.

Where did you take your automotive apprenticeship, at the Bermuda Triangle Vocational School?

No, school of hard knocks, or as my mother used to say, "self schooling is the best you can get"

Started with Deere, Farmall, AC, Ford tractors back in the mid-fifties. Mostly Ford cars/trucks for mid-term. Graduated to Porsche 911's, LS400's and RX's starting in the early 90's. Did have one GS300 MY2000 but didn't keep it very long.

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Have you checked the battery to tell if it was good? I've never bought a new battery that was bad but the clicking sounds to me like the battery is low on juice. Just a thought but I would check it out if you haven't already.

Good Luck!!

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