kuziwk Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 So here is a rundown of my problem. In parking lots or when i make sharper right turns there is this annoying popping from the left wheel. Also when there is really unlevel bumpy roads such as ice and snow, i can hear the popping while going straight from that same side. I had both upper control arms replaced including bushing and ball joints via myself. I took the car in telling him to look at the lower ball joints as i didnt have time, sure enough they were done. After replacing the lower ball joints a few weeks ago the car was fine, but now the popping is coming back and is getting worse. Does anyone know whats going on here? I cant recall if tempurature is a factor because we have gone from -40 f to 38 degrees f in a matter of 3 days. Im thinking lower control arm on the left side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tofu Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 It's probably your front strut bushings going out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcfish Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 Ball joints, Replace them now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuziwk Posted February 8, 2011 Author Share Posted February 8, 2011 Ball joints, Replace them now I just said i already replaced both upper control arms and the lower ball joints :(. I didnt get a wheel alignment though, would this matter? it seems to track straight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcfish Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 Ball joints, Replace them now I just said i already replaced both upper control arms and the lower ball joints :(. I didnt get a wheel alignment though, would this matter? it seems to track straight. Woops, My bad, Have a look at the bushings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tofu Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 Have you checked your front struts (shocks)? I had the same problem on my old 95 LS400 and the bushing on top of the struts were bad. Sometime it is easier just to replace the whole shock. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuziwk Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 Have you checked your front struts (shocks)? I had the same problem on my old 95 LS400 and the bushing on top of the struts were bad. Sometime it is easier just to replace the whole shock. Good luck. I was thinking lower control arm...Oddly enough i took it to my local mechanic again. He said everything in the front of the car is nice and tight, the bushings were a bit loose but thats the way they are supposed to be appearently. I dont understand so i asked if he wanted to go around the block for a ride and the car was not clicking at all. It was alot warmer when we drove it and its alot warmer now, perhaps there was ice stuck or something frozen a bit out of place and defrosted when it was in the shop. I have no idea but for now the car seems to be fine, its also very hard to tell because all the roads are *BLEEP* covered in jagged ice so it could even be the car sliding but i swear it was doing it in the parking lot a week ago when turning very sharp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc211 Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 Outer control arms on your steering rack. You replaced the lower ball joints and the noise went away for a while. YOu have to mess with the outer control arms to remove the ball joints, which probably reset them a little. Now, they've settled back down from the work, and you're getting the noise. Or, the upper strut bushings. Does the pop noise sound like it's coming from the front of the car, or from under the car. If you haven't replaced your lower strut rod bushings yet, I'd be willing to bet they're toast, no matter what they "look" like. At your age, no way they're not showing significant wear. Look under the car in the front. See the control arm that reaches to the front corner of the car? That's your strut rod. See the bushing at the front? That's usually the first of all bushings to wear out. Another possiblity is when the control arms you replaced were all pieced back together in the system, the bolts along the lower control arm where everything comes together weren't tigntened enough, causing control arm to control arm contact movement, but this is rare. Top three causes in my book, in order - outer steering control arms, front strut rod bushings, upper strut mount bushings (open the hood and look where the shocks bolt to the car). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuziwk Posted February 13, 2011 Author Share Posted February 13, 2011 Outer control arms on your steering rack. You replaced the lower ball joints and the noise went away for a while. YOu have to mess with the outer control arms to remove the ball joints, which probably reset them a little. Now, they've settled back down from the work, and you're getting the noise. Or, the upper strut bushings. Does the pop noise sound like it's coming from the front of the car, or from under the car. If you haven't replaced your lower strut rod bushings yet, I'd be willing to bet they're toast, no matter what they "look" like. At your age, no way they're not showing significant wear. Look under the car in the front. See the control arm that reaches to the front corner of the car? That's your strut rod. See the bushing at the front? That's usually the first of all bushings to wear out. Another possiblity is when the control arms you replaced were all pieced back together in the system, the bolts along the lower control arm where everything comes together weren't tigntened enough, causing control arm to control arm contact movement, but this is rare. Top three causes in my book, in order - outer steering control arms, front strut rod bushings, upper strut mount bushings (open the hood and look where the shocks bolt to the car). I will check when it warms up again. Weather has been not to bad here but i took it back to the mechanic the second time, he said there is nothing wrong as he drove the car and proceeded to use a pry bar on all the bushings. Funny now because the car is not clicking at all now when turning, unless it's possibly he tightened a few bolts. Are the upper strut rod bushings hard to change? i couldnt find the arms anywhere just the bushings, and im betting the arms are easier to change. Honestly, how much work should one put into a car with 200,000 miles?? How do i know how long the engine and tranny will last, you know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clipster Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 I want through this last year (160K miles) and the short answer is that you'll keep chasing problems until all the components have been replaced - struts, strut bars, upper/lower control arms, ball joints, and tie rods. You're doing what I did - replacing 1 component at a time hoping that will fix the problem. In hindsight I should have done them all at once for I would only have to work on it once instead of multiple times. So we're talking $2K in parts plus DIY labor or $4K at a mechanic. Is it worth it??? I had this debate for a while, and finally decided that it was worth it, for I coundn't find another model to replace it with (best car I've ever owned), the engine is still solid, and the cost of the repair is nothing compared to the cost of trying to replace the car. So if you really like your LS, I'd say do the full repair, since it'll ride like new again afterwards. No different than those who own classic cars. When something breaks, they just fix it - they 'never' think of selling the car just because a part wore out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuziwk Posted March 14, 2011 Author Share Posted March 14, 2011 I want through this last year (160K miles) and the short answer is that you'll keep chasing problems until all the components have been replaced - struts, strut bars, upper/lower control arms, ball joints, and tie rods. You're doing what I did - replacing 1 component at a time hoping that will fix the problem. In hindsight I should have done them all at once for I would only have to work on it once instead of multiple times. So we're talking $2K in parts plus DIY labor or $4K at a mechanic. Is it worth it??? I had this debate for a while, and finally decided that it was worth it, for I coundn't find another model to replace it with (best car I've ever owned), the engine is still solid, and the cost of the repair is nothing compared to the cost of trying to replace the car. So if you really like your LS, I'd say do the full repair, since it'll ride like new again afterwards. No different than those who own classic cars. When something breaks, they just fix it - they 'never' think of selling the car just because a part wore out. Ok so i finally got the car on dry ground and it seems to be fin when turning, but the car still pops on really unlevel icy road (like chopping on a wood cutting board). Dont get me wrong, i love driving my LS and i feel like some buissnessman but my friends are haters. My friend said its weird why i drive such a big car when in comparison its the size of todays midsize cars, my dad calls it a beatee. Im my eyes a beater is something that runs like crap and is rusty, neither of which my LS falls under. Why the hell do POS broken down merecedes get more respect than the LS??? Ive also heard it looks like a grandpas car, I mean i know my rims are dated but i always liked the look of the car...looks sleek and elegant. I could sell the car and get an SC of similiar year maybe less miles too, but i would need something to drive in the meantime. However the SC of similiar year is not even that much faster, im guessing not as smooth either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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