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Crankshaft Pullley Removal And Replacement


BlackLex

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Just an inexpensive harmonic balancer or steering wheel puller will work. Tougher part is getting HB nut off first. I bought a holder for $70 Schley 64300 (follow link below) which was helpful as nut can be very jammed and needs to be retorqued at 180-190 ftpds. I was changing timing belt and water pump so removed Rad. Maybe you can leave it in for HB only. Its not a lot of work to remove rad so maybe just do it and get more space to work in.

Whats wrong with your HB? I didn't know they failed very often...

http://www.etooldirect.com/schley-64300-lexus-toyota-harmonic-damper-holding-tool.html?source=googleps

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Just an inexpensive harmonic balancer or steering wheel puller will work. Tougher part is getting HB nut off first. I bought a holder for $70 Schley 64300 (follow link below) which was helpful as nut can be very jammed and needs to be retorqued at 180-190 ftpds. I was changing timing belt and water pump so removed Rad. Maybe you can leave it in for HB only. Its not a lot of work to remove rad so maybe just do it and get more space to work in.

Whats wrong with your HB? I didn't know they failed very often...

http://www.etooldirect.com/schley-64300-lexus-toyota-harmonic-damper-holding-tool.html?source=googleps

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I too use the Schley 64300 and it did not require me to remove the Radiator. I had purchased this 1994 LS400 with a horrendous Oil Leak, and the previous owner thought it was from the crankshaft seal. He was right, but there was additional trouble! I found the roller for the timing belt on the drivers' side of the engine, had seized and had spun its bolt loose (solely because the timing belt glides counterclockwise across this pulley) and when it un-tightened its roller bolt, it then leaked MORE oil, as this bolt mates with the Oil Pump.

On top of that, the Tension Roller for the timing belt was also very loose, and the two were causing the belt to ride forward, which shredded the leading edge.

It took 20 cans of brake cleaner and lots of paper towels before I had it all clean. When I used the Schley tool, the large crank bolt came off fine, and next I used a simple two jaw gear puller.

With everything off and out of the way, and much cleaner, I took a metal pick/scribe, and found the main front crank seal would spin freely!

I removed it with very little effort, with the pick and one hand! It HAD been leaking horribly!

Because I have a SIR Tools Special Crank Shaft Seal Installer, for Toyota 4cyl and 6 cyl, (Lexus too) I thought this tool woould work. Not so. (It's the Red Aluminum Tool in the photos below).

I researched and found SIR Tools now sells a Lexus/Toyota V8 Front Crank Seal and they want a lovely $ 168 for this one time use tool.

Even though I wanted it badly, I forced myself to the Lowe's Hardware Plumbing aisle with my red aluminum incorrect seal installer, and my New Front Crank Seal.

I found a PVC Union assembly and a 2" Cap to screw onto one end of the PVC Union, and spent $10.00, making my own seal installer.

It worked 98% of the way, pressing in the new front crank seal perfectly flush, and I used a 1/2" thick by 1" thick by 6" long piece of metal stock, to drive the new seal in the last itty little bit.

I think you should change your crank seal as well, as it is not hard to do, and you do NOT have to remove the slot key from the crankshaft. Your hand can easily pull the crankshaft's timing gear off....it slides nicely.

I also replaced my Camshaft Seals, but that requires a special tool to hold the cam pulleys as well. Don't attempt this unless you have the spanner wrench that holds the spokes still, from turning, while un-tightening or tightening the cam bolts.

Buy a subscription to www.alldatadiy.com, for torque specs if you need. It's come in handy for many other problems too.

Enjoy these photos!

Andy Lowe

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Because I have a SIR Tools Special Crank Shaft Seal Installer, for Toyota 4cyl and 6 cyl, (Lexus too) I thought this tool woould work. Not so. (It's the Red Aluminum Tool in the photos below).

I researched and found SIR Tools now sells a Lexus/Toyota V8 Front Crank Seal and they want a lovely $ 168 for this one time use tool.

Even though I wanted it badly, I forced myself to the Lowe's Hardware Plumbing aisle with my red aluminum incorrect seal installer, and my New Front Crank Seal.

I found a PVC Union assembly and a 2" Cap to screw onto one end of the PVC Union, and spent $10.00, making my own seal installer.

It worked 98% of the way, pressing in the new front crank seal perfectly flush, and I used a 1/2" thick by 1" thick by 6" long piece of metal stock, to drive the new seal in the last itty little bit.

I think you should change your crank seal as well, as it is not hard to do, and you do NOT have to remove the slot key from the crankshaft. Your hand can easily pull the crankshaft's timing gear off....it slides nicely.

Enjoy these photos!

Andy Lowe

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Great writeup! Clever idea for the seal tool as well. I didn't change the oil seals on my TB change a month ago but there was no sign of leaking. If I still have the car in 90k miles I'll do the seals for sure. I'm 1,100 miles on the new TB so another 88,900 before the next change.

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  • 8 months later...

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